Salsify

Salsify year’s growth, the other not until it is two years old. The former variety is the commoner in London. To boil ordinary salsify—say two pounds—take one quart of water, a teaspoonful of salt, and a tablespoonful of vinegar, with four ounces of melted beef dripping: stir over the fire till boiling, then put in the salsify, which should be cut into two and a half inch lengths. Slowly simmer for half an hour, the stew-pan not quite closed, drain them, and serve with butter melted or sauce blanche. Or—after boiling—the pieces may be floured or dipped in batter, and fried in boiling fat till they are crisp. Grated cheese may then be dusted over them as soon as they have been drained dry (salsifis frits). Salsify can also be served with brown sauce and beef marrow (à la moelle) or with plain gravy (au jus). Black salsify has a very perceptible flavour of the oyster— is, indeed, called the oyster plant in America—and forms several delicious entremets. The roots peel easily when boiled, and when mashed the pulp is as white as snow. Simply mashed with milk or white sauce and a few drops of anchovy sauce, with a covering of bread crumbs strewn over it, and a little melted butter, then baked till brown, and served in coquilles, black salsify presents an exact imitation of oysters scalloped. Salsify purée, garnished with pieces of the vegetable a quarter of an inch long, and enriched with velouté, can be served wherever oyster sauce is recommended—with a juicy fillet of beef, for instance. It makes a most delicate patty, and as a white soup (purée) it might be called mock bisque d’huîtres. Never peel or scrape black salsify (scorsonère) before boiling, for if cut when raw it “sweats,” and loses much of its moisture and flavour. Boil first, and peel afterwards. This advice, though contrary to that of most writers on cookery, is the result of personal experience.