moulds, and moulds of all shapes and sizes, little silver casseroles, fire-proof china scallop shells, &c., &c. And not only is much time saved by these articles, but the things turned out by their means look far more finished and tasty than was ever possible before their introduction.
Chicken, veal, ox and sheep's tongues, sweet-breads, ham, bacon, oysters, shellfish, pigeons, turkey, rabbit, the liuers of all poultry, of rabbits, and game—whether previously cooked or not—provide materials out of which these entrées can be made. It is in the judicious blending of twvo or more of them together, in the thorough pounding and incorporation thereof, in the selection of the condiments she employs to improve them, and in the turning out of shapes of a good colour and proper consistency, that the skill of the good cook can be detected.
In ham and tongue, which can of course be procured in small quantities as required on cut, you have a very valuable thing to fall back upon for “made” entrées. Cured sheep's tongues, too, are very useful, and a little calf's or lamb's liver is sometimes a good thing to have at hand in case of need.
Calf's liver cut into dice, and fried with some shallot in the pan in which some fat bacon has been melted, then set to get cold, and pounded in the mortar with a dust of spiced pepper, a sprig of parsley some panada and egg forms the well-known forcemeat which surrounds a pâté de foie gras and all French pâtés. Proportions:—one pound of liver, one pound of fat bacon, a small shallot, four ounces of panada, one beaten egg, and a saltspoonful of seasoning. The frying-pan should be lightly rubbed with garlic before operations are commenced, and the minced onion must go in wvith the liver. If you could add to the mixture when pounded the minced trimmings of some fresh truffles the flavour would be exactly that of the pâté.
But even without this assistance, a little jar of the plain composition, made as described with calf's liver will be found well worth the trouble it costs to make when you are preparing, say, a dish of croquettes de volaille and want to improve the flavour of them.