585. NOIX OR CUSHION OF VEAL, A LA ST. GEORGE.
THE noix, or cushion, is that part of a leg of veal to which the udder adheres. In order to separate it from the round, or fillet, the leg should be placed on the table, with the knuckle from you, then with the left hand, take hold of the upper part of the fillet of veal, and with the right insert the point of a knife into the separation which divides the noix, or cushion, from the under part of the fillet; cut the noix away, following the separation right through, round to the knuckle, terminating at the left, under the udder, which must be left adhering to the noix.
Pare off the sinewy parts from the noix; trim the udder without reducing its size, and then, with a sharp-pointed knife, make a very slight incision in a circular direction on the surface of the noix, round the inner edge of the udder; next remove the outer part with a knife, trimming it smooth and neatly; lard the trimmed parts closely with fat bacon in the usual manner, and prepare the noix for braizing as follows:—First place at the bottom of a large fricandeau or oval stew-pan, on the drainer thereof, some sliced carrots, a head of celery, two onions, with a clove stuck in each, and a garnished faggot; cover the whole with thin layers of fat bacon, and then put in the noix of veal; surround it with the trimmings, and moisten with half a bottle of sherry or Madeira, and a sufficient quantity of good stock, barely to reach the surface of the veal; cover with a well-buttered white paper, and set it to boil on the stove; place the lid on the pan, and put it on a slow fire, or in the oven, to braize gently for about four hours (with live embers on the lid), remembering to baste the larding frequently with the liquor, in order to moisten the veal, and glaze it of a bright colour: the udder should be covered with thin layers of fat bacon, to preserve its whiteness during the braizing. When the noix is done, drain and glaze it; remove the layers of bacon, and dish it up; garnish it round with groups of button-mushrooms, small quenelles of fowl (coloured with crayfish butter), cocks'-combs and kernels, and turned truffles tossed in glaze; surround these with a border of lambs' sweet-breads, one-half of which should be larded and the others, contrasts with tongue; place alternately; stick four silver skewers, each garnished with a large double cocks'-comb, a large truffle, mushroom and crayfish, into the noix; sauce with a rich Madeira sauce (No. 8), and send to table.