same name. For this prepare half a pint of more or
less rich custard in the usual way with egg yolks and
milk, seasoning it with salt and coralline pepper (and,
if liked, a drop or two of essence of anchovy), and leave
this till cold. Meantime boil together sharply a short
half pint of either best white vinegar, light French
white wine, or half of each, a teaspoonful of minced
shallot, two or three peppercorns, a pinch of salt, and
a bay-leaf till reduced to less than half, when you strain
it and leave till cold. This mixture is then whisked
in very gradually into the cold custard, till it is all
light and frothy, when it is served with the cold fish.
A couple of tablespoonfuls of richly-coloured tomato
purée added to this makes a pleasant and unusual
change. Of course these sauces require caution, for
though palatable, they are all usually very rich, and
it must be borne in mind that a good deal of the dyspeptic
trouble generally associated with salmon, lobster, etc.,
arises far more from the rich addenda sent to table
with them than from the fish.
Another way, very popular with some people, of
serving plainly boiled cold fish is “soused.” For this
take a good cut of salmon, a whole trout, or a mackerel,
as you please, and lay it in a fairly deep dish; put into
a small pan half a pint of good vinegar, a couple of
cloves, a small shallot, a little fish stock, and some
freshly-ground pepper; let this just boil up well, then
strain it over the fish, and leave till cold. A prettier
form of this dish is to substitute a strong fish aspic
for the fish stock, or add to the latter from 1oz. to 2oz.
of best leaf gelatine; let this all boil together well till
blended, lay the fish in a deep dish that will hold it
nicely, and strain this liquid on to it, being careful
to have enough to cover the fish entirely, and leave