2. STOCK SAUCES, BROWN AND WHITE

The modern cook · Charles Elmé Francatelli · 1846
Source
The modern cook
Status
success · extracted 12 days ago
Not a recipe
No
Ingredients (22)
For both Brown and White Stock Sauces
For Brown Stock Sauce
For White Stock Sauce
Instructions (27)
  1. Prepare the stock sauces: Espagnole (brown sauce) and Velouté (white sauce).
  2. Spread the bottom of two large, clean stewpans with fresh butter.
  3. Lay about one pound of lean ham, cut in slices, over the butter in each stewpan.
  4. Add the finest pieces of veal in equal proportion to each stewpan.
  5. For the brown sauce stewpan, add two or three whole wild rabbits (or more carcases).
  6. For the white sauce stewpan, add two old hens or carcases of fowls.
  7. Pour sufficient grand stock into each pan to reach the upper surface of the veal.
  8. Place the pans with covers on, on brisk fires, and let them boil sharply until the broth is nearly reduced to a glaze.
  9. Remove the pans from the fire immediately and decrease the heat by adding charcoal ashes.
  10. Replace the pans on the fire.
  11. For the brown sauce, add one pound of glaze and reduce it with the stock until it acquires a redder hue.
  12. Once the white sauce broth is reduced to the consistency of pale glaze, fill it up with grand stock.
  13. Garnish the white sauce with a good-sized carrot, one onion, four cloves, a blade of mace, and a garnished faggot or bouquet (parsley, green onions, bay-leaf, thyme tied together).
  14. Set the white sauce on the stove to boil, skim it well, and then simmer gently at the side of the stove.
  15. Pay strict attention to the brown sauce to prevent it from catching fire.
  16. Ascertain when the brown sauce is sufficiently glazed by dipping the end of a knife into it; if the glaze can be rolled into a ball without sticking to the fingers and has a beautiful brown red color, proceed.
  17. Fill up the brown sauce in exactly the same manner as described for the white sauce.
  18. About two hours after these operations, pass the broths through tammy cloths into large kitchen basins.
  19. Pour the roux or thickening into the large stewpans for mixing each sauce.
  20. Remove all fat from the broths.
  21. Pour the brown broth upon the brown roux and the white broth upon the white roux.
  22. Stir the sauces well while mixing.
  23. Ensure there is sufficient liquid fat for the sauces to throw up the butter and scum when boiling and simmering, giving them a velvety appearance.
  24. Add a large ladleful of white chicken broth to the white sauce.
  25. Add the same quantity of consommé to the brown sauce.
  26. Let the sauces clarify for about twenty minutes longer.
  27. If sufficiently reduced, pass them through tammy cloths into white basins and store in the larder.
Original Text
2. STOCK SAUCES, BROWN AND WHITE.* The first thing to be attended to on the following morning is to “mark off,” or prepare the stock sauces; viz. the Espagnole or brown sauce, and the Velouté or white sauce, in the following manner:— Take two large stewpans, well tinned and thoroughly clean; spread the bottom of each with fresh butter, over which lay about one pound of lean ham cut in slices; then add the finest pieces of the veal in equal proportion to each stewpan. In that intended to be used for the brown sauce put two or three whole wild rabbits (for the more carcases may suffice); put into the stewpan marked for the white sauce two old hens, or carcases of fowls. Pour into each pan a sufficient quantity of grand stock to reach the upper surface of the veal; place the pans with their covers on, on brisk fires, and let them boil sharply till the broth is nearly reduced to a glaze; then take them off the fire immediately, and slacken the stoves, by putting on some charcoal ashes to decrease their heat; after which, replace the pans on the fire, adding to the brown sauce one pound of glaze, to be reduced together with the stock, by which it will acquire a redder hue; it will also accelerate its progress—a point of great import- ance; for if sauces or broths remain too long on the fire, the delicacy of their flavour is sure to be impaired. As soon as the broth for the white sauce is reduced to the con- sistency of pale glaze‡, fill it up with some grand stock; garnish it with a good-sized carrot, one onion, four cloves, a blade of mace, and a garnished faggot or bouquet, made of parsley, green onions, a bay-leaf, and thyme tied together neatly. Set it on the stove to boil; skim it well, and then place it to simmer gently at the side of the stove. Pay strict attention to the brown sauce, in order to pre- vent the possibility of its being caught by the fire in the least degree. Such an accident always tends to lessen its anchymosis. Ascer- tain when the brown sauce is sufficiently glazed, by dipping the end of a knife into it, twirling the handle round in the hand, so as to take up a quantity of glaze on the point of the blade; if you can then roll it into a ball without its sticking to the fingers, and it is of a beautiful brown red colour, you may proceed to fill it up in exactly the same manner as described for the white sauce. About two hours after the above-mentioned operations have been attended to, pass the broths through tammy cloths into large kitchen basins. Then pour the roux or thickening into the large stewpans to be used for mixing each of these sauces; take off all the fat, and pour the brown broth upon the brown roux and the white broth upon the white roux. While the sauces are being mixed, they should be well stirred. When thoroughly mixed, there must be fat sufficiently liquid to enable them (after boiling on the stove-fire, and while they are simmering on the side) to throw up the whole of the butter with which the roux was made, together with the scum, by which means they assume a velvety appearance, from which di- vide white sauce takes its name Velouté. Finally, add a large ladleful of white chicken broth to the white sauce, and the same quantity of consommé to the brown sauce; let them clarify for about twenty minutes longer, and then, if suffi- ciently reduced, pass them through the tammy cloths into white basins, and put them away in the larder for future use.
Notes
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