STEAMING.
The process of steaming has long been familiar to the public more especially on account of the introduction of Warren's cooking-pot and vegetable steamer than by any other appliance for the purpose.
The term steaming is frequently applied not only to the Warren process, but also to the cooking of meat and vegetables placed in hermetically closing utensils, which, in turn, are plunged into larger vessels containing boiling water.
Warren's system needs no description, for detailed instructions accompany every vessel. Its chief recommendation consists in its simplicity and economy. Meat well braised may be said to be equally nutritious, for it is in like manner cooked in its own vapour and juices; but in the matter of fuel braising is by far the more expensive methods, while the careful regulation of the heat, &c., costs infinitely more trouble than the simple boiling of a Warren's pot. The one process requires the hand of a cook; the other can be managed by any one.
The not uncommon practice of partly roasting a joint after it has been nearly cooked in a Warren's pot is erroneous. The result can at best be that of meat half-boiled, half-roasted—"neither fish, nor fowl, nor good red herring," so to speak. A good cook ought, by the clever treatment of the gravy made by the meat, to be able to diversify both the appearance and flavour of the joint, adding to its attractiveness by a tasteful garnish of macaroni or vegetables.
The utmost cleanliness is absolutely necessary in the use of Warren's pot.
Somewhat similar in treatment is the process of JUGGING. There is a homely dish, common enough in Southern India, cooked in this manner, and called by the native chef "boiled chops." This is really deserving of attention, for it is susceptible of improvement, and far greater development. A nice steak; a dish of neck cutlets; the blade bone of the shoulder, boned and flattened; a small-sized fowl, boned and flattened; game similarly prepared, and even fish, can thus be dressed very daintily. The native arranges his little dish of neck cutlets between two soup-plates sealed together with strong paste, but I advocate the making of a vessel specially for jugged dishes, as follows:—An oval tin, ten inches long, seven and a half inches across, and not more than two inches deep. The tin should have its upper edge turned outwards like a pie-dish, half an inch wide, so that a flat cover may be pasted closely to it, and it should have a ring at each end to serve for handles. The cover should be an oval sheet of tin slightly larger in its measurements than the interior of the tin itself. With this a very tender and appetising dish, particularly nice for luncheon and to be recommended for children, can be prepared. Choose a good neck of mutton, and trim the little chops as neatly as possible, or cut up such pieces of the scrag end as you would use for Irish stew. With the trimmings of meat and bone make a broth, assisted by an onion, some peppercorns, any scraps of beef, chicken bones, cold game, lean ham or bacon—in short, any useful sundries. When done, skim, and strain it; you ought to have a breakfast-cupful of it. Now scald the tin and cool it in cold water, cover the bottom of the tin with slices of onion, and arrange the chops thereon, covering them with two medium-sized onions sliced fine, a carrot sliced, a young turnip sliced, an ounce of celery cut into half-inch lengths, two tomatoes sliced and drained, and a bunch of curled parsley. Then add to the broth half an ounce of glaze, a tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, a saltspoonful of salt, and the same of sugar. Pepper the chops pretty freely with freshly ground black pepper before covering them. When arranged, pour in the broth and seal the lid of the tin, all round the rim, with stiff paste, fixing it securely. Now put the tin into a shallow vessel containing boiling water (the water reaching to one-third of the depth of the tin), and keep it on the fire for two hours. At the time of serving the lid should be cut off and the tin, wrapped in a napkin, should be placed upon an ordinary dish and sent to table immediately. For adults a tablespoonful of marsala is to be recommended—to be put in with the broth, which before serving can be strained, carefully skimmed, thickened, and poured over the meat and vegetables.
Follow the same directions in jugging a steak, or a blade bone: in the case of the boned fowl, a little bacon, or some sliced bologna sausage, will be found an improvement, the broth being made, of course, from the bones and giblets. With game-birds I would add a little sweet herb seasoning.