LARGE FISH, WHOLE.
ABROAD the appearance of a whole large fish in jelly,
or en chaufroix, is far more common than it is with us,
though a whole salmon is occasionally to be seen
at large ball suppers and such like. Many fish are
susceptible of this treatment, with great advantages,
for it offers a welcome change, and, moreover, allows
of the use of many which we have almost forgotten.
Besides this, it must be remembered that it is not abso-
lutely necessary to have a whole fish. A good cut from
the centre of a large one (technically known as a tronçon,
of whatever fish is chosen), the head and shoulders (in
French the hure), or even the tail end, may be served
cold with any of the garnishes adopted for the whole
fish. Salmon is, of course, facile princeps as a cold side-
board dish. Firstly, it may be served plainly boiled in
the usual way, with a garnish of parsley, watercress,
etc., the sauce being handed in a boat. Concerning the
sauce it is well to observe that it is always better, when
possible, not to add this condiment till the last minute,
as the steeping of the fish in so rich a substance is apt
to make it both soggy and indigestible. As will be seen
later in the chapter on mayonnaises and such like, the
accusation of unwholesomeness frequently brought
against salmon, shellfish, etc., is far more often the result
of steeping an already rich fish in an even richer sauce (a
sauce, moreover, which has a tendency to grow rank
and strong if exposed to the air), than to the nature of
the fish itself if thoroughly fresh and properly prepared.
But though a good fresh fish may be perfectly well
served cold after plain boiling, most connoisseurs and
good chefs advise the use of a court-bouillon, or broth
composed of herbs, fish-stock, wine, milk, etc., instead
of water. This court-bouillon may be kept ready, and
can be used over and over again, only boiling up in it
a little more stock, etc., as the liquid evaporates. The
method of preparing this is as follows : Slice thinly 2oz.
each of onion, carrots, and a good bouquet (including a
small blade of mace and 4oz. each of celery and parsley),
and fry these in 4oz. of butter in a fairly large pan,
seasoning them as they cook with half a teaspoonful of
salt, and half that amount of freshly-ground black pepper,
a few peppercorns, and a small teaspoonful of grated
horseradish ; when the vegetables are soft, but not
coloured, add a pound of fish trimmings and a quart
of warm water, to which you have mixed a gill of best
French vinegar, or wine, red or white, according to
circumstances. If made with white wine this is known as
court-bouillon, if with red wine it becomes court-bouillon
au bleu, whilst if vinegar is used it is called court-bouillon
simple. Bring all these ingredients to the boil, skim
thoroughly, then simmer steadily and gently for an
hour, after which strain. It may now be kept for use, or
be re-boiled, when the fish is plunged into it, the liquid
again allowed just to boil up after the chill caused by
the addition of the cold fish, the kettle being then
covered down, and its contents kept at gentle simmering
point till the fish is cooked. When ready, lift the fish
into a deep earthenware dish, and allow it to cool in
the court-bouillon—the latter, by the way, if helped
out with a little more fish-stock, stiffened with gelatine
(using 4oz. to 4oz. of gelatine to the half pint of stock,
according to the use you wish to put the jelly to), making
most excellent aspic jelly for decorative or other use.
The above quantities would be sufficient for a trout, or
a grey mullet, but they would have to be increased
(keeping the proportions correctly) for larger fish ;
still as, if tightly corked down, this court-bouillon keeps
well, this is no disadvantage. Another way of serving
whole fish is en marinade. For this cleanse and trim
the fish, split it open, and rub the inside over with fine
salt ; leave it thus, cut-side uppermost, for an hour or
so, after which wipe it and lay it in the pan prepared for
it. For the pan, where possible, it is best to have a
fireproof dish, either of French china, or glazed earthen-
ware, oval or oblong, but in any case long enough to let
the fish lie out straight in it at full length. Line the
bottom of this with sliced onion, turnip, and carrots
(using one part turnip, or less, to two of carrot, and three
of onion), scattering the surface with minced parsley,
scraped horseradish, sweet herbs, and a generous allow-
ance of freshly-ground black pepper. Lay the fish
on this, then pour in equal quantities of fish-stock and
good vinegar, or light French wine, to cover the fish,
and bring it slowly to the boil, drawing it aside directly
it reaches this point, only allowing it to simmer in the