Pheasant to Roast.—Truss like a fowl for roasting, though some persons like the unplucked head kept on, when it should be carefully wrapped in buttered paper all the time of cooking, the paper being only removed when the bird is dished. In this case a few of the tail feathers are also restored at the same time. But this is rather old-fashioned nowadays, and is, in any case, a troublesome fancy for the carver. Most cooks nowadays bard the bird with a slice of slitted bacon, removing this just at least for a minute or two to brown the bird, replacing it (or not afterwards, as taste dictates. This barding is indispensable when, as in the present day, baking so often has to replace roasting. One point is imperative, and that is the necessity for constant and generous basting. When cooked, put the bird at once on a hot dish (with or without a neatly-trimmed and fried croûton as you please), garnish with watercress salad, and send to table with bread sauce and browned breadcrumbs, and gravy to taste separately. For the bread sauce boil half a pint or so of milk with a few peppercorns, a spray of parsley, an onion stuck with a clove (or preferably two or three young green onions), till well flavoured; then strain it, boiling, on to 6oz. freshly-grated white breadcrumbs; cover down the pan closely, and let it stand on the side of the stove till the bread has absorbed all the milk; then lift out the onion and the parsley, and beat the bread to a smooth pap with a silver fork, let it just boil up, stirring all the time to prevent its burning; now add two good tablespoonfuls of cream or new milk, a seasoning of salt and pepper, and serve very hot. Some cooks add mace and nutmeg to this sauce, but these spices are both so strongly flavoured that it is wise to ascertain first if they are liked, as, if not liked, they are usually intensely disliked. For the breadcrumbs, take some previously dried and sifted breadcrumbs (these should always be at hand in a soigné kitchen, in wide-mouthed stoppered bottles, either white or brown, the colouring being simply a matter of length in baking) and place them in a hot baking dish with an ounce or two of either butter or delicately clarified dripping, and let them bake very gently, stirring them constantly to avoid burning till the crumbs have absorbed all the fat and are dry and crisp. For the gravy, prepare stock in the ordinary way