Ragout.—This is Neapolitan for ragout or stew, and
is mostly in Naples made with a piece of beef; but
breast, shoulder, or loin of mutton is quite as nice,
really. Bone the breast, say, removing all unneces-
sary fat, and dust the inside with freshly ground
black pepper and minced or powdered sweet herbs
(parsley, thyme, marjoram, etc.), then lay on this
a strip of bacon, both fat and lean, also rolled in
pepper and sweet herbs, and tie up the meat into
a neat roll. Now prepare a forcemeat by mincing
pretty finely a good piece of bacon (if this chance
to be too lean add to it a little of the superfluous
mutton fat), with onion, sweet herbs, and, if liked,
a little garlic (remember that if you wish to obtain
the flavour without the strength of garlic you should
peel, but never cut, the clove, or the juice exuding
will flavour everything hopelessly); when this is
thoroughly blended put it into a saucepan in
a smooth layer, and on it place the roll of meat,
turning it till it is nicely browned all over. Now
season it with pepper and salt to taste, and add to
it some tomato purée diluted with water or stock
till of the consistency of thin pea soup; just
bring it to the boil, then allow it to simmer very
slowly for three or four hours according to the size
and thickness of the meat. When cooked, lift the
meat out, strain off the sauce, and use three-quarters
of it to moisten some ready cooked macaroni,
previously well dusted with pepper, salt, and grated
cheese, turning the macaroni well over and over to
get it thoroughly saturated with the liquor; then
place a thick bed of this on a hot dish, the meat on
it, and lastly pour the reserved quarter of the meat
liquor over the whole and send to table very hot. This
meat is excellent hot, and, if possible, nicer cold.
Remember in this as in every case the macaroni
must be properly cooked.