MEATS.
150
well scraped rind of some bacon, as taste and conveni-
ence dictate; season with salt, and some peppercorns,
and pour in about one and a half pints of good bone
or poultry stock, and about half a pint of light white
wine (or failing this put a good wineglassful of
sherry or Marsala in a small tumbler, add the juice
of half a lemon, fill up nearly to the top of the
tumbler with water and use), and if liked a table-
spoonful of brandy. This is not needed if sherry is
used. Cover down closely, bring it to the boil, then
only allow it to simmer, gently but steadily, till the
bird is cooked, turning it over once or twice in the
process. The length of time it will take depends on
the size and age of the bird, and the cook; from two
to five hours being the extreme limits; but it cannot
be too strongly impressed on the cook that the
slower the fowl is cooked the more excellent will it
be on the table. Elderly fowls, and, indeed, any kind
of poultry are cooked thus with advantage. If to be
eaten cold (when it is particularly delicious), lift the
pan from the fire, and turn its contents out into an
earthenware pan and allow them all to grow cold
together. If to be eaten hot, remove the paper and
barding bacon, and place it in a baking tin with
about half a pint of its gravy and set it in the oven
for about eight or ten minutes to glaze, keeping it
well basted during the process. Meanwhile strain
the rest of the gravy, free it from fat, boil it up
sharply to reduce it slightly, and send to table either
separately or over and round the bird. A turkey
cooked thus is, abroad, called en daube, and the
process is applied to almost any kind of meat.