Barley Broth (or Scotch Broth).—Put into a pan
3lb. of mutton (the neck, shoulder, etc., are most
used for this, for which indeed any scraps can, if
necessary, be utilised), with three quarts of cold
water, 10oz. to 12oz. of pearl barley, and a good
spoonful of salt; lastly put in a good cupful of white,
or double that quantity of old green peas; bring it
slowly to the boil, skimming it very carefully, to
remove as much scum as possible; when it begins to
boil up put the lid on the pan, but keep it lifted by
placing a wooden spoon across it (in Scotland the
“spurtle” or broth stick, is used for this purpose),
and allow it to boil steadily and not too fast for an
hour; the superfluous grease and froth escapes in
this way, and leaves the broth clear of the fat, which,
if made in the ordinary way, is always an objection
to mutton broth. When it has boiled for an hour,
put in two or three small carrots and turnips, cut up
into dice (or the carrots may be grated), and the
white part of three good leeks cut into inch lengths,
for each quart, and again let it boil for an hour till
the vegetables are thoroughly cooked. Fifteen
minutes before it is ready put a spoonful or so of
nice parsley picked (not cut up) small, and serve,
either just as it stands, meat and all, in the tureen,
or if the meat has been cooked in the piece, lift it
out, rinse it free from vegetables, etc., with a little of
the broth, and serve it on a separate hot dish either
with a little of its own broth and a garnish of soup
vegetables, or with well-made caper or nasturtium
sauce over it. In this latter case it is well to lift
the piece of meat out of the soup as soon as it is done,
and continue cooking the vegetables alone, only
returning the meat in time to heat it thoroughly.
Such is the Scotch way of making this most ex
cellent dish, though of course there are many
variants to be found in the “land o' cakes.”
For instance, this broth is often made of a
piece of beef from the “runner,” or thin flank, and
is quite as good, made in just the same way; or
curly kale not too finely shred, and an increased
portion of leeks may replace the carrots and turnips
of the original recipe. Many recipes use onions
instead of the leeks, but the former do not make as
nice broth as the latter, as these appear to dissolve and
blend better than do the onions, which, moreover,
disagree with many people. Another point to watch
is the barley. This must be fresh and sound, and
then no more requires washing than flour does;
unfortunately this is a point on which cooks, English
ones especially, are not sufficiently careful, and hence
often arises the dislike to mutton broth; for if the
barley is not first-rate, it gives a disagreeable,
“glairy,” ropy consistency to the liquid. When beef
runner is used instead of mutton, curly kale should
always be added to this soup.