Roast swan.—Mince finely 3lb. of rump steak with three shallots, and season liberally with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. Truss the bird like a goose, stuffing it with the rump steak, etc., sewing it up to prevent the stuffing escaping. The old-fashioned way was to wrap the bird in well greased or buttered paper, then in a flour and water paste (like venison), and lastly in another sheet of strong paper, and roast for about four hours, keeping it well basted all the time. Now it is only wrapped in one coating of paper, and very liberally basted, of course taking only about half the time to cook. When cooked, remove the coverings and froth it with a little flour and butter, and dish up with brown gravy round it, and port wine sauce. This is a Norwich recipe, which town was famous for swans. Swans are at their best from September to November.