Partridge Soufflé.
To use up remains of cooked birds. Chicken or grouse can be used the same way, but you need not have white stock for grouse.
Keep on one side the best parts of the bird.
Cut up the carcass and legs and draw down with second stock (this stock must be white if for partridge or fowl soufflé), add celery, ham minced, and herbs, and a little white pepper. Put on the lid and let it come to the boil, then simmer it beside the fire one hour.
Strain and skim, and make the sauce of this liquor with roux and cream in the usual way.
Now for the Soufflé: Pound the best parts of the bird (none of the legs, &c.), and mix the pounded meat with a dessert-spoonful of the white stock; add 2 yolks of egg, pepper, salt, and a grate of nutmeg, also ½ a teacupful of cream. At the last add 2 whites of egg previously well whipped.
Steam the mixture in dariole moulds ½ hour, then turn out and serve on the sauce.
Of course mushrooms improve the flavour, or finely chopped truffles put through both the soufflé and the sauce. If you have neither of these, ham and celery are very important.
(If your gentlemen growl at the birds being old and tough, this is a very useful recipe, for the world is tired of rissoles and croquettes.—C.C.)