Crème Raifort.—Well wash, scrape, and grate finely a stick of young horseradish, then whisk it quickly into a gill of stiffly whipped cream, flavouring it as you do so with cayenne and plain or chilli vinegar, or lemon juice. If preferred, sour cream can be used for this. A very delicate form of this sauce is Crème Raifort à l'Alceste (said to have been called after the flagship of the admiral who invented it, Sir Beauchamp Seymour, I believe), made by pounding the yolk of a hard-boiled egg with a good mustardspoonful each of English and French mustard, half a small teaspoonful of caster sugar, and a saltspoonful of celery salt; this is then stirred lightly into about half a pint of stiffly whipped cream, with a pinch of grated orange peel, a teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar (the quantity of this is a matter of taste), and a full tablespoonful of freshly grated horse radish. This can be moulded, or left rocky, but in any case should be frozen in ice or in an ice cave. If set in a border mould it makes a most delicious border for neatly sliced cold beef, seasoned with oil, vinegar, pepper, and salt, and finely minced parsley, chives, etc., a nice French salad being served in the centre.