Herbs

Herbs.—Of these there is a great variety, far more being in use formerly than are now acknowledged. It is a great pity the use of these is neglected, as by them were obtained the flavours we all admire in foreign cookery, and try to reproduce by the lavish use of cruet sauces of various kinds, which, however, never give the same delicate aroma or savour as the natural herbs do. The herbs in most frequent use are basil (excellent in connection with tomatoes in any shape), chervil, chives, cress, fennel, marjoram, mint, sage, savoury, thyme, and tarragon. To these may be added bay leaves and horseradish, though these are scarcely herbs. Of course herbs are best used fresh, but as this is impossible all the year round, the best plan is to pick them when in perfection, and dry them slowly on sheets of white paper, either in the sun or in very gentle heat, and then powder them finely, putting each sort up sepa rately in wide-mouthed, closely-stoppered bottles, each labelled with the name of the particular herb. This is both a thriftier and cleaner way of saving them than the old-fashioned method of hanging them in bundles from the kitchen ceiling. A tea spoonful of dried herbs equals a dessertspoonful of fresh ones, measured after they are minced. M. Gouffé recommends the preparation of a special herb mixture for use in stuffings, stews, etc., and the advice of so noted a chef is not to be despised. “Pound together as fine as possible 2oz. each of dried thyme, bay leaves, and nutmeg (or mace), 1/2oz. each of dried marjoram, rosemary, and whole black pepper, and 1oz. cayenne pepper. When perfectly fine sift this into closely-stoppered bottles. Mind no stalks are left. In.” If to 1oz. of this seasoning you add 4oz. fine table salt, you get the well-known French fines herbes. Whilst on the subject of herbs a word must be said re the bouquet, or “bunch of herbs” so frequently mentioned in cookery books. A bouquet consists of a spray of thyme, a bay leaf, and five or six fair-sized sprays of parsley, all tied tightly together. There is also a more elaborate bouquet known as B. garni, (though this name is also given to the previous one). For this lay a small handful of parsley on the table, on this lay the thyme and bay leaf, with one or two small green onions, a strip of lemon peel, a tiny blade of mace, one or two cloves, and, if liked, a small strip of celery; now fold the parsley well all over this in a little torpedo-shaped bundle, tying the ends tightly so that its contents cannot escape, and leaving a bit of string by which to lift it out at the last. This is quite worth the trouble, as it can be dropped in and lifted out so easily, and avoids all chance of bits of the herbs being left in the dish at the last.