TURTLE SOUP.
PROCURE a fine lively fat turtle, weighing about 120 lbs: fish of this weight being considered the best, as their fat is not liable to be impregnated with that disagreeable strong flavour objected to in fish of larger size. On the other hand, turtle of very small size seldom possess sufficient fat or substance to make them worth dressing.
When time permits, kill the turtle overnight that it may be left to bleed in a cool place till the next morning, when at an early hour it should be cut up for scalding—this being the first part of the operation. If, however, the turtle is required for immediate use, to save time, the fish may be scalded as soon as it is killed.
The turtle being ready for cutting up, lay it on its back, and with a large kitchen-knife separate the flat or belly-shell from the back; by making an incision all round the inner edge of the shell; when all the fleshy parts adhering to the shell have been carefully cut away, it may be set aside. Then detach the intestines by running the sharp edge of a knife cleanly along the spine of the fish, and remove them instantly in a pail to be thrown away. Cut off the fins and separate the fleshy parts, which place on a dish by themselves till wanted. Take particular care of every particle of the green fat, which lies chiefly at the sockets of the fore-fins, and more or less all around the interior of the fish, if in good condition. Let this fat, which, when in a healthy state, is elastic and of a bluish colour while raw, be steeped for several hours in cold spring water, in order that it may be thoroughly cleansed of all impurities.
Then, with a meat saw, divide the upper and under shells into pieces of convenient size; handle; and, having put them with the fins and head into a large vessel containing boiling water, proceed quickly to scald them; by this means they will be separated from a horny substance which covers them, which will then be easily removed. They must then be put into a larger stockpot nearly filled with fresh hot water, and left to continue boiling by the side of the stove-fire until the glutinous substance separates easily from the bones. Place the pieces of turtle carefully upon clean dishes, and put them in the larder to get cold; they should then be cut up into pieces about an inch and a half square, which pieces are to be finally put into the soup when it is nearly finished. Put the bones back into the broth to boil an hour longer, for the double purpose of extracting all their savour and to effect the reduction of the turtle broth, which is to be used for filling up the turtle stockpot here-after.
In order to save time, while the above is in operation, the turtle stock or consommé, should be prepared as follows:
With four ounces of fresh butter, spread the bottom of an eight-teen-gallon stockpot; then place in it three pounds of raw ham cut in slices—over these put forty pounds of leg of beef and knuckles of veal, four old hens (after having removed their fillets, which are to be kept for making the quenelles for the soup); to these add all the fleshy pieces of the turtle (excepting those pieces intended for entrée); and then place on the top the head and fins of the turtle; moisten the whole with a bottle of Madeira and four quarts of good stock; add a pottle of mushrooms, twelve cloves, four blades of mace, a handful of parsley roots, and a good-sized faggot of parsley tied up with two bay-leaves, thyme, green onions, and shallots. Set the consommé thus prepared on a brisk stove-fire to boil sharply, and when the liquid has become reduced to a glaze, fill the stockpot up instantly, and as soon as it boils, skim it thoroughly. Garnish with the usual complement of vegetables, and remove it to the side of the stove to boil gently for six hours. Remember to probe the head and fins after they have been boiled two hours, and as soon as they are done drain them on a dish, cover them with a sheet napkin well saturated with water to prevent it from sticking to them, and put them away in a cool place with the remainder of the glutinous parts of the turtle, already spoken of. The stockpot should now be filled up with the turtle broth reserved for that purpose as directed above. When the turtle stock is done, strain it off into an appropriate-sized stock-pot, remove every particle of fat from the surface, and then proceed to chicken it with a proportionate quantity of white roux to the con-sistence of thin sauce. Work this exactly in the same manner as practised for Espagnole or brown sauce, in order to extract all the butter and scum, so as to give it a brilliant appearance.
One bottle of old Madeira must now be added, together with a purée of herbs of the following kinds, to be made as here directed: Sweet basil must form one-third proportion of the whole quantity