CARDOONS (Cardons) must not be omitted, for although by no means an ordinary market vegetable, they can be got, and are easily grown in English gardens. Choose them well bleached and free from bruises. Cut them into three-inch lengths; scrape off the prickles; plunge them into boiling water-acidulated slightly with lemon juice. Keep them at this temperature till the woolly skin peels when rubbed with a cloth; then drain, and cast them into cold water. After having been thus cooled they should be trimmed and the stringy skin removed. To cook them, cover the bottom of a stew-pan with slices of fat bacon, lay the cardoons thereon, cover them with a layer of bacon slices, moisten with sufficient blanc to cover the contents of the pan, add slices of lemon, mignonette pepper, and salt, cover the pan, and simmer the cardoons very gently till they are done. Cardoons can be served with white sauce or with brown. Beef marrow is a favourite adjunct prepared as already described, cardons à la moelle being a well-known delicacy.
According to Audot, the mid-ribs of the leaves of white beetroot (cardes poirées), and the tender stalks of the globe artichoke plant (pieds d'artichauts), form a nice substitute for cardoons. The latter should be blanched, scraped free from their fibrous skin, cut into three-inch lengths, and stewed in blanc as described for celery à la moelle.
In order to blanch the artichoke stems, it is necessary, after the vegetable has been gathered, to bend the shoot down and earth it up. The parts thus covered turn white, and in this way you obtain an excellent substitute for cardoons.