Haggis.—This is a dish seldom seen south of the
Tweed, and, indeed, there are people who say that
it is dying out up in the north, but this may be set
down as a libel. Anyway, experto crede, 'tis an
extremely toothsome dish if the cook will only take
the trouble to make it properly. Get your butcher
to supply you with a sheep's pluck, and the large
and one of the small stomach bags of the animal,
wash these latter well in cold water, and then in
boiling water, scraping them well, but being careful
not to break them. After this leave them in cold
salted water till the next day. Well wash the pluck,
then put it into a saucepan full of boiling water,
leaving the windpipe to hang out over the side that
the blood, etc., may escape, and let it boil for one
and a half hours; then lift it out and let it get
cold. Now cut away the windpipe with any fat or
gristle adhering to it; grate about a quarter of the
liver, and mince another quarter with the heart,
lights, and about half a pound of good beef or
veal suet (the rest of the liver will not be wanted);
now mix this minced meat with three or four par-
boiled and finely minced onions, two teacupfuls of
oatmeal, previously well dried in the oven or toasted
in front of the fire, black pepper, and salt to taste,
and half a pint of the liquor in which the pluck
was cooked. Fill the bags about half full with this
mixture (if overfilled they will burst), and now
them up; put them into a large pan full of boiling
water and boil them for three hours, pricking the
skins now and again to prevent their bursting;
then serve on a hot dish without any garnish or
gravy. They will be found sufficiently rich.
This dish, said to derive its name from the
French hachis (mince), was originally made with
the pluck of a deer, which is described as being
particularly good; at all events, haggis made with
a lamb's fry and pluck, or with that of a young
calf is extremely delicate. In the latter case the
mixture is made with a good d'uxelles mince, some
rich veal gravy, the yolks of two eggs being also
added.