CUTLETS, FILLETS, etc.
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strikes him, when he thinks of some slight varia- tion of an every day dish. Of course if this variation should happen to be somewhat out of the common, the name becomes known, and after a time passes into the kitchen vocabulary, where it takes a recognised place, like the Chateaubriand, and the côtelettes à la Reform, etc., but more often the fame is purely local and of transitory importance. In the ordinary good French menus special names, unless of first rank, are seldom given, the dish taking its name from the accessories and sauce which garnish it. This is an excellent plan, as it conveys far more idea of the nature of the dish than, say, côtelettes à la Sirdar, or filets à la présidente, both of which have ere now figured on menus de circonstance. A very delicate yet nameless dish is made by mounting each little larded round of beef on a hot artichoke bottom, previously flavoured with white pepper and salt, a little minced tarragon, oil and vinegar, and then serving it with a very rich suprême sauce round it. Another variante is to broil the round and unlarded filet, and mount it on little mounds of rather stiff mushroom purée, placing just enough very firm mayonnaise on the top to fix there a turned olive stuffed with an anchovy preserved in oil, or a little anchovy butter. It should be remembered that a touch of savoury butter, anchovy especially, both on the dish and on the meat, adds enormously to the flavour of beef or mutton. For instance, try this: Have ready some croutons two or three sizes larger than your grénadins, lay on each of these a broiled slice of tomato, and on this again the delicately