Samphire (Bacile or Perce-pierre).—This plant
grows wild all along the sea coast, and has been held
in honour as a pickle for generations—to such a
point that other plants somewhat like it have been
substituted for it when the supply of samphire ran
short; but as these substitutes are not as aromatic
as the real plant, this adulteration for some time
brought the original into disrepute. But once the
real samphire has been seen and tasted (the raw
fleshy leaves have a salty, spicy taste), it is easy to
distinguish. It should be gathered in May, or, at
all events, before the flower begins to show, for after
that it becomes hard and stringy. Choose the greenest
samphire, and lay it in a pan with three or four table-
spoonfuls of salt over it, then pour in sufficient
cold water to cover it, and let it steep for twenty-four
hours. Now drain off the water, and lay the samphire
in a large copper pan with a good tablespoonful of
salt, cover the pan down closely, and let it cook over
a very slow fire till it is quite crisp and green; then
lift it off at once, for if allowed to stay on the fire till
it softens it is spoiled. Pack it at once in a jar, cover
it, and, when cold, fasten this cover down tightly.
Another way is to prepare the samphire as before,
but when drained from the steeping water, dry
carefully in a clean cloth, lay it into jars, and pour
over it sufficient boiling white wine vinegar (previously
boiled with a small amount of ginger, mace, and
whole pepper) to cover it, let it stand till cold, then
cover down tightly, and store. This will be ready
for use in a fortnight.