NUTRITIVE SOUP.
INTO a three-gallon stockpot, put a knuckle of veal, six pounds of
the shoulder part of beef (commonly called the gravy-piece), and a
hen of roast beef or mutton. Fill the stockpot with cold water to
within two inches of the brim, and set it upon a stove-fire to boil,
taking care not to burn its ebullition, but allow it to take place
gently, so that it may have time to throw up its scum; this should be
removed, as it rises to the surface, and a little cold water should be
thrown in occasionally to effect that purpose.
When the stock has thrown off all its scum, which will easily be
perceived by the water becoming clear again, lift it off the stove, and
set it by the side. Then proceed to garnish it with four leeks and
two heads of celery, trimmed and tied together, two good-sized
carrots, two turnips, and two onions, into each of which two cloves
have been inserted; add one good tablespoonful of salt, and let the
whole boil gently for about three-quarters of an hour. During this
time, an old hen and a partridge should be partially roasted, and then
put into the stock; this should continue to boil during five hours
unremittingly: care being taken that the stockpot be kept full.
Previously to the soup being served, take off every particle of fat
that appears on the surface with a ladle; take out the vegetables
carefully placing them on a napkin, then remove the fowl and the
partridge from the stock: these operations should be so managed as
not to disturb the brightness of the broth. Cut the fillets of the
fowl and the partridge into slices, and place them in the soup-tureen
and upon these put some of the vegetables (which have been drained
on the napkin) neatly cut with a vegetable cutter a quarter of an inch
in diameter; then pour in the broth, to which add a little brown consommé of veal to give it colour. Let it be sufficiently seasoned with
salt, and a few grains of minionette pepper, then serve.
EMPOTAGE, OR CONSOMME FOR SOUPS IN GENERAL.
WHEN preparing for potage, take about thirty pounds of gravy
beef, and a similar quantity of knuckles of veal, together with four
wild rabbits, and put the whole into a large stockpot which has been
previously spread with butter, add common broth in sufficient quan-
tity so as nearly to cover the meat. Put the stockpot on the stove-
fire to boil until the broth is reduced to a light-coloured glaze; then
fill it up with the remainder of the grand stock, and after it has
boiled and been skimmed, garnish it with carrots, turnips, leeks,
onions, and celery; add also two blades of mace and six cloves. In
all cases be sparing of salt, especially in the first stages of prepara-
tion. Allow the broth to boil gently on the side of the stove for six
hours, and then pass it into kitchen-pans for further use.
In connection with this subject, I may here point out that, if it be
contemplated to have as one of the removes a piece of beef braized,
a saving of provision may be effected, by using in the first instance,
instead of about thirty pounds of stock beef, only ten pounds of that
quality in preparing the grand stock; the deficiency being made up
by twenty pounds of sirloin. This latter must be boned, and the
fillet taken out, either to be used to ornament the remove or for an
entrée, as occasion may require; the meat must then be rolled up
tightly and strung round in the manner of 'Hambro' beef. This will
thus answer the double purpose of giving strength to the consommé,
and of serving afterwards as a remove.
When the beef thus prepared has boiled gently in the stockpot for
about five hours, take it out and put it in press between two dishes
till wanted; it must be then trimmed, and placed in a long braizing-
pan with a little good stock to warm it in; glaze it nicely, and having
dished it up, garnish the remove with such vegetables as have been
prepared for the purpose.
CONSOMME OF FOWLS FOR SOUPS.
TAKE two or more fowls, according to the quantity of broth re-
quired; roast them before a brisk fire until half done; and then put
them into a small well-trimmed stockpot, nearly filled up with water,
and place this on the fire to boil; skim the consommé, and then add
one good-sized carrot, two turnips, one onion, one head of celery, two
cloves, a small piece of mace, and a little salt. Set the stock on the
side of the stove to boil gently for about two hours, and then strain
it off for use.
This kind of consommé is admirably adapted for persons of delicate
health as a restorative. It is also very serviceable in imparting deli-
cacy of flavour to all clear soups.
BROWN CONSOMME OF PHEASANTS OR PARTRIDGES.
ROAST off two pheasants, after having taken out the fillets for the
purpose of making them into an entrée, or four partridges may be
used (removing the fillets in the same way); put them into a stockpot
with a small knuckle of veal, and about one pound of lean of ham; fill
up with water, then set it to boil on the stove-fire. Meanwhile slice
up a carrot, an onion, two turnips, a head of celery, and a leek; fry
these roots in a stewpan, with a small piece of butter, till they become
slightly browned; then throw them into the consommé after having
previously well skimmed it. Add three cloves, a piece of mace, and
a little salt; let it boil gently about three hours, and then strain it
off for use.
This preparation will serve for all kinds of clear consommé soups,
such as au Chasseur or à la Désélignac, &c.
BROWN CONSOMME OF RABBITS.
TAKE three or four wild rabbits, cut them up in pieces, and put
them into a small stockpot with five pounds of knuckle of veal which
has been roasted enough to colour it; fill up with light broth or
water, then set it on the stove to boil, skim it well, and garnish with
carrot, onion, and celery, two cloves, a piece of mace, and a little
salt. Let this boil gently for three hours, and then strain it off for
use.
This consommé is very essential in clarifying Espagnole or brown
sauce, and is also serviceable for all soups in which quenelles of game
are served.
WHITE CONSOMME OF FOWLS.
TAKE two or more old hens or fowls, or, in their stead, the carcasses
of fowls, or any other sort of poultry you may have. Let them steep
in cold water to cleanse them from any blood they may contain;
then drain and put them into an appropriate-sized stockpot or stew-
pan, and fill it up with common broth or water; garnish with celery,
onions, turnips, carrots, and leeks. Set it to boil gently by the fire
for two hours; if made with carcasses, but if old hens are used, it
will require at least an hour longer. When done, skim off the fat
and pass the consommé through a napkin into a basin for use.
This consommé may be considered as the proper basis of all white
soups, and is most useful in clarifying and flavouring all white
sauces.
WHITE CONSOMME OF PHEASANTS OR PARTRIDGES.
THE same process is to be followed in making this consommé, as
the foregoing, substituting, of course, game for poultry.
This consommé, after being partially reduced to glaze, is used for
the purpose of imparting the flavour of game to any white sauces,
such as Suprême, Allemande, Béchamel*, Velouté, or white Italian sauce.
It is also useful for mixing white purées of game.
BROWN EXTRACT OF LARKS OR QUAILS.
AFTER having filleted the larks or quails, and removed the gizzards
from the trail of the larks, put a stewpan on the fire with an ounce of
fresh butter in it; when the butter begins to fritter, put the bones or
carcasses of larks or quails into the stewpan, and fry them brown.
Then add half a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, two shallots, and two
* So called after the celebrated cook Béchamel, who lived in the reign of Louis XIV.