CLASS I.
To return to our class list of entrées, I cannot too strongly recommend the selection of dishes from class one, especially for the little dinner. Can anything be more acceptable than a nice juicy little chop from a neck of mutton, on the sides of which the marks of the gridiron are plainly visible, served as hot as possible, with a well-made sauce, and an inviting garnish of vegetable:—a purée of celery, spinach, endive, or sorrel, a little pile of macédoine, marrow fats, or asparagus points? The grid-iron is invaluable: the cutlet comes to table full of gravy, yet not underdone; it has,to use a kitchen phrase, “seen the fire” (browned) in places, and is absolutely free from the grease which so often mars a dish of cutlets cooked by anunskilful hand in the sauté-pan. For the little club-dinner, this class of entrée is always popular. Pleasing variety can always be secured by the cook by changing her sauce, her garnish, or her purée. Choose the neck chops for these entrées. These remarks apply of course to lamb cutlets with which a garnish of delicately stewed cucumber is appropriate.
The fillet of mutton is that tender strip of meat which runs down the inside of the saddle under the kidney. If of sufficient thickness, this delicate morsel, cut into nice pieces, and broiled over a clear fire, is worthy of Lucullus himself. It is the thing for an invalid, or one coming round after an illness.
The choicest part of the fillet of beef is the undercut of the sirloin, but this no butcher will cut out for you in London unless you are prepared to take the whole joint to which it appertains, or pay a fancy price for the whole fillet. If, however, you leave the question in his hands, stating exactly what you want, and giving him a couple of days’ notice, he will cut you excellent meat for an entrée from the thick part of the fillet which is found in the rump.