50
COLD FISH.
and filleted herring, especially if from Loch Fyne,
is delicious if served with tartare sauce, seasoned water-
cress, and, if liked, a dusting of finely-minced chives
or spring onions. Sardine sauce again is an ideal
complement to cold halibut, or fish of that class, whilst
cold salt (or fresh) cod salad with a dressing à la Ste.
Ménéhould is as uncommon as it is good. Only re-
member, keep your flavours distinct and clear and
your salad itself as daintily simple as possible. The
best salad I ever ate was made by a well-known French
chef, famous for the delicacy of such dishes when he
prepared them, but I saw that very salad passed over
by the pupils (it was a class at an exhibition), con-
temptuously as “only a lobster salad! anyone can make
that! and just a plain thing, without a bit of garnish!”
And they turned admiring and reverent eyes towards
a weird and awful production, concerning which I
never was absolutely certain whether it was sweet or
savoury, or indeed whether it was not the discarded
hat of one or other of the assistants!