COLD FISH.
this on ice till firmly set, then garnish by means of a bag and pipe with butter beaten to a cream, and coloured a very pale green with parsley greening, anchovy or lobster butter of a rich red tint, and plain cream butter left its natural tint. Dish neatly and serve garnished with little dariols or croûtons of aspic, crayfish, truffles, etc., together with hâtelets or skewers to taste. This, however, is a dish only fit for public banquets, etc., and cannot fairly be expected from the ordinary plain cook. A version she might, however, perfectly produce is the simpler one loved by and known to the French ménagère as S. à la Norvégienne. For this cook the fish, as before, in a court-bouillon, and, when perfectly cold, drain, wipe, and dish it, back up, fixing it into position with croûtons of fried bread spread with green or anchovy butter, brush it over evenly with aspic jelly, and, as this is setting, garnish it down both sides with washed and boned fillets of anchovy, applied diagonally all the length of the fish, setting these with a little more aspic. Serve with seasoned watercress and chopped aspic jelly, green or tomato mayonnaise being handed in a boat. If a little extra garnish is desired add a few hardboiled and quartered eggs with the watercress. Plover's eggs, when obtainable, make this into a most recherché dish. The name is derived from the smoked Norwegian anchovies used in the garnishing. A good cut from a large fish, or whole trout, grilse, shad, bass, or even large mackerel, can with advantage be treated thus. It should be added that French cooks treat salmon in this way constantly, varying the covering sauce to taste, and the name also, accordingly, but it may be forgiven an English cook for observing that for these recondite dishes, with their strong additional flavours, it is better to use the foreign and less self-flavoured