52 ENTRÉES.
rather stiff d'Uxelles sauce, and when this has set a little, brush each cutlet over with egg and then fine breadcrumbs, and fry in plenty of hot fat till of a golden brown (about twelve to fifteen minutes) and serve with rich brown sauce, strongly flavoured with mushrooms, shallot, and tomatoes, with a dash of white wine and a spoonful of capers added at the last, and a garnish of broiled mushrooms. If the pigeons are boned and coated with a liver or foie gras farce, fried, and served with tomato sauce they are called à la moderne; in short, pigeons may be cooked and served with any variety of sauce and garnish, for example à la milanaise, spread with a liver forcemeat (not foie gras) fried, and served on a bed of well cooked macaroni mixed with white sauce strongly flavoured with grated cheese, strips of ham, and truffles, with the cheese sauce round; or on a bed of tomato sauce and macaroni, with a demi-glace poured round; or à la chipolata, with a rich espagnole and a chipolata garnish; or à la flamande, with a good strong brown gravy (not thickened sauce) and a garnish of stewed cabbage, and carrots, turnips, tiny onions, etc., first cooked, then tossed in enough butter with a tiny pinch of sugar, to glaze them; or à la Montglas, when the rest of the flesh carefully picked from the carcasses of the birds is made into a rich mince with stock (made with the bones of the pigeons and a little strong stock, flavoured like an espagnole sauce), into which you stir some sliced truffles; or if cut in half, without boning, the pigeons may be grilled and served on a bed of spinach with tartare, mayonnaise, Cazanove,