CHAUFROIX, &c.
you please, and consist of all sorts of tiny scraps of
meat, such as chicken, game, cold roast meat, brown
or white, cold cooked brains, sweetbread, ham,
tongue, &c., according to what you have, mixed with
caper, minced olives, young cold cooked vegetables,
fillets of anchovy, minced truffles, &c. In short all
and every kind of scraps, but depending for their
success entirely on the way the said scraps are
harmonised and mixed with the sauce, and garnished.
A recipe or two for this kind of dish will be given
in the next chapter.
The only thing to remember with these pretty
little dishes is that though distinctly economical, they
need foresight, and in this as in every case the woman
who cannot pay with her purse must pay with her
person, as the French say. Whenever by any chance
there is a surplus in the judicious purchase of a few odds
and ends, such as a bottle of good olives, another of
anchovies in brine, or the same fish in oil, some
stuffed olives, a pot or two of any nice paste, such as
anchovy, cod's roe, shrimp, &c., a bottle or two of
caper, and last but not least, some pretty moulds,
and china or paper cases in profusion. It is a great
stimulus to the cook who has really done her best
with homely tools, to bring her in, say, a dozen of any
pretty little moulds of a fancy shape; a pastry rack
for masking her chaufroix on; some little knives for
“turning” (i.e., cutting vegetables artistically), a
potato slicer, &c.; such things bought singly do not
run into much money individually, and add enor-
mously to the comfort of the cook, and the using of