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broiled grénadin, with on the top a rosette of Périgord butter. As French women say, vous m’en direz des nouvelles, if your cook has taken trouble with the dish. For this Périgord butter, mince down five or six good sized truffles, and cook them for a few minutes in a gill of Madeira or sherry with a seasoning of pepper; pound these when cool in a mortar, with 4oz. of butter and half of a well washed anchovy till perfectly smooth, and use.
Veal can be filleted like both beef or mutton, i.e., you can have cutlets of veal cut from the best end of the neck exactly as with mutton, and excellent these are! Or, again, you can use the filet or undercut, or the fillet (in other words, the round), precisely as you would beef. The noisette is usually cut from the cushion or fillet, as may be also the escalopes, though these latter are more often cut in long narrow strips from the loin. Any of these forms of veal may be served broiled, stewed, braised, sautés, or in cases. Veal in these small portions is almost invariably either barded or larded, i.e., it is either wrapped in thin slices of fat or larding bacon, or it is larded with tiny lardoons passed through the surface of the meat, as shown for grénadins, or passed straight through from side to side. Owing to the dryness of this meat it requires basting frequently, and should also at the last be brushed over with glaze and set in the oven for a minute or two to crisp this and also the lardoons, which, needless to say, should have been neatly trimmed.
For fillets of fowl, you should take off the whole breast on each side of the breastbone, right down to