Indian or mixed Pickles—Mango or Piccalilli.—(No. 123.)
The flavouring ingredients of Indian pickles are a compound of curry powder, with a large proportion of mustard and garlic.
The following will be found something like the real mango pickle, especially if the garlic be used plentifully. To each gallon of the strongest vinegar put four ounces of curry powder (No. 455), same of flour of mustard (some rub these together, with half a pint of salad oil), three of ginger bruised, and two of turmeric, half a pound (when skinned) of eschalots slightly baked in a Dutch oven, two ounces of garlic prepared in like manner, a quarter of a pound of salt, and two drachms of Cayenne pepper.
Put these ingredients into a stone jar; cover it with a bladder wetted with the pickle, and set it on a trivet by the side of the fire during three days, shaking it up three times a day; it will then be ready to receive gherkins, sliced cucumbers, sliced onions, button onions, cauliflowers, celery, broccoli, French beans, nasturtiums, capsicums, and small green melons. The latter must be slit in the middle sufficiently to admit a marrow-spoon, with which take out all the seeds; then parboil the melons in a brine that will bear an egg; dry them, and fill them with mustard-seed, and two cloves of garlic, and bind the melon round with packthread.
Large cucumbers may be prepared in like manner.
Green peaches make the best imitation of the Indian mango.
The other articles are to be separately parboiled (excepting the capsicums) in a brine of salt and water strong enough to bear an egg; taken out and drained, and spread out, and thoroughly dried in the sun, on a stove, or before a fire, for a couple of days, and then put into the pickle.
Any thing may be put into this pickle, except red cabbage and walnuts.
It will keep several years.
Obs.—To the Indian mango pickle is added a considerable quantity of mustard-seed oil, which would also be an excellent warm ingredient in our salad sauces.
[405]
HOUSEKEEPERS’ MANUAL.
VARIOUS USEFUL FAMILY RECEIPTS.
To prevent Beer becoming Flat after it is drawn.
Put a piece of toasted bread into it, and it will preserve the spirit for twelve hours after, in a very considerable degree.
To clean Plate.
First.—Take care that your plate is quite free from grease.
Second.—Take some whitening mixed with water, and a sponge, rub it well on the plate, which will take the tarnish off; if it is very bad, repeat the whitening and water several times, making use of a brush, not too hard, to clean the intricate parts.
Third.—Take some rouge-powder, mix it with water to about the thickness of cream, and with a small piece of leather (which should be kept for that purpose only) apply the rouge, which, with the addition of a little “Elbow Grease,” will, in a short time, produce a most beautiful polish.
N.B.—The rouge-powder may be had at all the silversmiths and jewellers.
Obs.—The above is the actual manner in which silversmiths clean their plate, and was given to me by a respectable tradesman.
The common Method of cleaning Plate.
First wash it well with soap and warm water; when perfectly dry, mix together a little whitening and sweet oil, so as to make a soft paste; then take a piece of flannel, rub it on the plate; then with a leather, and plenty of dry whitening, rub it clean off again; then, with a clean leather and a brush, finish it.
Varnish for Oil Paintings.
According to the number of your pictures, take the whites[406] of the same number of eggs, and an equal number of pieces of sugar candy, the size of a hazel nut, dissolved, and mix it with a tea-spoonful of brandy; beat the whites of your eggs to a froth, and let it settle; take the clear, put it to your brandy and sugar, mix them well together, and varnish over your pictures with it.
This is much better than any other varnish, as it is easily washed off when your pictures want cleaning again.
Method of cleaning Paper-Hangings.
Cut into eight half quarters a quartern loaf, two days old; it must neither be newer nor staler. With one of these pieces, after having blown off all the dust from the paper to be cleaned, by the means of a good pair of bellows, begin at the top of the room, holding the crust in the hand, and wiping lightly downward with the crumb, about half a yard at each stroke, till the upper part of the hangings is completely cleaned all round. Then go round again, with the like sweeping stroke downwards, always commencing each successive course a little higher than the upper stroke had extended, till the bottom be finished. This operation, if carefully performed, will frequently make very old paper look almost equal to new.
Great caution must be used not by any means to rub the paper hard, nor to attempt cleaning it the cross, or horizontal way. The dirty part of the bread, too, must be each time cut away, and the pieces renewed as soon as it may become necessary.
To make Wooden Stairs have the appearance of Stone.
Paint the stairs, step by step, with white paint, mixed with strong drying oil. Strew it thick with silver sand.
It ought to be thoroughly dry next morning, when the loose sand is to be swept off. The painting and sanding is to be repeated, and when dry, the surface is to be done over with pipe-clay, whiting, and water; which may be boiled in an old saucepan, and laid on with a bit of flannel, not too thick, otherwise it will be apt to scale off.
A penny cake of pipe-clay, which must be scraped, is the common proportion to half a lump of whiting.
The pipe-clay and whiting is generally; applied once a week, but that might be done only as occasion requires.
[407]
French Polish.
Take a quarter of an ounce of gum sandarac and a quarter of an ounce of gum mastic; pick the dirt and black lumps out very carefully, and pound them in a mortar quite fine; put them into a bottle, and add to them a quartern (old measure) of strong spirit of wine; cork it down and put it in a warm place; shake it frequently till the gum is entirely dissolved, which will be in about twenty-four hours.
Before using it, be careful to ascertain that no grease is on the furniture, as grease would prevent its receiving the polish. If the furniture has been previously cleaned with bees’-wax or oil, it must be got off by scraping, which is the best way, but difficult to those who do not perfectly understand it, because if you are not very careful, you may scratch the surface, and create more expense than a workman would charge to do it properly at first. Or it may be done by scouring well with sand and water, and afterward rubbed quite smooth with fine glass paper, being careful to do it with the grain of the wood. To apply the polish, you must have a piece of list or cloth twisted, and tied round quite tight, and left even at one end, which should be covered with a piece of fine linen cloth; then pour a little of the polish on the furniture, and rub it well all over till it is worked into the grain of the wood, and begins to look quite smooth; then take a soft fine cloth, or what is better, an old silk handkerchief, and keep rubbing lightly until the polish is complete, which will take two or three hours. It will greatly help the polish if it is done near a fire.
If it does not look so smooth and clear as it should, a little sweet oil rubbed lightly over, and cleaned off directly, will greatly heighten it. If any part of the furniture has carving about it, where it will be impossible to polish, it must be done with mastic varnish, and a camel’s hair brush, after the rest is finished.
When the polish begins to look dull, it may be recovered with a little spirit of wine.
Polish for Dining Tables,
Is to rub them with cold-drawn linseed oil, thus:—put a little in the middle of a table, and then with a piece of linen (never use woollen) cloth rub it well all over the table; then take another piece of linen, and rub it for ten minutes, then rub it till quite dry with another cloth. This must be done every day for several months, when you will find your[408] mahogany acquire a permanent and beautiful lustre, unattainable by any other means, and equal to the finest French polish; and if the table is covered with the tablecloth only, the hottest dishes will make no impression upon it: and when once this polish is produced, it will only require dry rubbing with a linen cloth for about ten minutes twice in a week, to preserve it in the highest perfection; which never fails to please your employers; and remember, that to please others is always the surest way to profit yourself.
If the appearance must be more immediately produced, take some Furniture Paste.
To prevent disagreeable Smells from Sinks, &c.
The disgustful effluvia arising from cabbage-water, and the various ungrateful odours which arise from the sink of kitchens, drains, &c., are not only an unnecessary nuisance to the good folks of the second table, but we believe such miasm is not an uncommon cause of putrid fevers, &c. &c.
It cannot be too generally known, that a cheap and simple apparatus has been contrived for carrying off the waste water, &c. from sinks, which at the same time effectually prevents any air returning back from thence, or from any drain connected therewith. This is known by the name of Stink Trap, and costs about five shillings.
No kitchen sink should be without it.
To prevent Moths.
In the month of April beat your fur garments well with a small cane or elastic stick, then lap them up in linen without pressing the fur too hard, and put between the folds some camphor in small lumps; then put your furs in this state in boxes well closed.
When the furs are wanted for use, beat them well as before, and expose them for twenty-four hours to the air, which will take away the smell of the camphor.
If the fur has long hair, as bear or fox, add to the camphor an equal quantity of black pepper in powder.
Paste.
To make common paste, mix one table-spoonful of flour with one of cold water, stir it well together, and add two more table-spoonfuls of water; set it over the fire and give it a boil, stirring it all the time, or it will burn at the bottom of the saucepan.
[409]
OBSERVATIONS ON CARVING.
“‘Have you learned to carve?’ for it is ridiculous not to carve well. “A man who tells you gravely that he cannot carve, may as well tell you that he cannot feed himself; it is both as necessary and as easy.”—Lord Chesterfield’s 211th Letter.
Next to giving a good dinner, is treating our friends with hospitality and attention, and this attention is what young people have to learn. Experience will teach them in time, but till they acquire it, they will appear ungraceful and awkward.
Although the art of carving is one of the most necessary accomplishments of a gentleman, it is little known but to those who have long been accustomed to it; a more useful or acceptable present cannot be offered to the public than to lay before them a book calculated to teach the rising generation how to acquit themselves amiably in this material part of the duties of the table.
Young people seldom study this branch of the philosophy of the banquet, beyond the suggestion of their own whims and caprices; and cut up things not only carelessly, but wastefully, until they learn the pleasure of paying butchers’ and poulterers’ bills on their own account.
Young housekeepers, unaccustomed to carving, will, with the help of the following instructions, soon be enabled to carve with ease and elegance; taking care also to observe, as occasion may offer, the manner in which a skilful operator sets about his task, when a joint or fowl is placed before him.
It has been said, that you may judge of a person’s character by his handwriting; you may judge of his conscience by his carving.
Fair carving is much more estimable evidence of good nature than fair writing: let me see how a gentleman carves at another person’s table, especially how he helps himself, and I will presently tell you how far he is of Pope’s opinion, that
“True self-love and social are the same.”
The selfish appetites never exhibit themselves in a more unmasked and more disgusting manner than in the use they[410] excite a man to make of his knife and fork in carving for himself, especially when not at his own cost.
Some keen observer of human nature has said, “Would you know a man’s real disposition, ask him to dinner, and give him plenty to drink.”
“The Oracle” says, “invite the gentleman to dinner, certainly, and set him to carving.” The gentleman who wishes to ensure a hearty welcome, and frequent invitations to the board of hospitality, may calculate with Cockerial correctness, that “the easier he appears to be pleased, the oftener he will be invited.” Instead of unblushingly demanding of the fair hostess, that the prime “tit-bit of every dish be put on his plate, he must receive, (if not with pleasure or even content,) with the liveliest expressions of thankfulness, whatever is presented to him; and let him not forget to praise the cook (no matter whether he be pleased with her performance or not), and the same shall be reckoned unto him even as praise to the mistress.”
“If he does not like his fare, he may console himself with the reflection, that he need not expose his mouth to the like mortification again. Mercy to the feelings of the mistress of the mansion, will forbid his then appearing otherwise than absolutely delighted with it, notwithstanding it may be his extreme antipathy. If he like it ever so little, he will find occasion to congratulate himself on the advantage his digestive organs will derive from his making a moderate dinner; and consolation from contemplating the double relish he is creating for the following meal, and anticipating the rare and delicious zest of (that best sauce) good appetite, and an unrestrained indulgence of his gourmandizing fancies at the chop-house he frequents.”
The following extract from that rare book, Giles Rose’s School for the Officers of the Mouth, 16mo. 1684, shows that the art of carving was a much more elaborate affair formerly than it is at present.
Le grand escuver tranchant, or the Great Master Carver. “The exercise of a master carver is more noble and commendable, it may be, than every one will imagine; for suppose that life to be the foundation of all that is done in the world, this life is not to be sustained without maintaining our natural heat by eating and drinking.”
Never trust a cook teaser with the important office of carver, or place him within reach of any principal dish. I shall never forget the following exhibition of a selfish spoiled child: the first dish that Master Johnny mangled, was three mackerel; he cut off the upper side of each fish: next came[411] a couple of fowls; in taking off the wings of which the young gentleman so hideously hacked and miserably mangled every other part, that when they were brought for luncheon the following day, they appeared as if just removed from a conclave of dainty cats, rather than having been carved by a rational creature. When the master of the family, who was extremely near-sighted, sat down to his nooning, in expectation of enjoying the agreeable amusement of having a
“Nice bit of chicken For his own private picking,”
no sooner had he put on his specs, and begun to focus his fowl, than he suddenly started up, rang for the cook, and after having vociferated at her carelessness, and lectured her for being so extremely perfunctory and disorderly in not keeping the cat out of the cupboard, till his appetite for scolding was pretty well satisfied, he paused for her apology: the guardian genius of the pantry, to his extreme astonishment, informed him, that his suspicions concerning the hideous appearance which had so shocked him, was erroneous: such unsightly havoc was not occasioned by the epicurism of a four-legged brute, and that the fowls were exactly in the same state they came from the table, and that young Master Johnny had cut them up himself.
Those in the parlour should recollect the importance of setting a good example to their friends at the second table. If they cut bread, meat, cheese, &c. fairly, it will go twice as far as if hacked and mangled by some sensualists, who appear to have less consideration for their domestics than a good sportsman for his dogs.
A prudent carver will distribute the dainties he is serving out in equal division, and regulate his helps by the proportion his dish bears to the number it is to be divided among, and considering the quantum of appetite the several guests are presumed to possess.
If you have a bird, or other delicacy at table, which cannot be apportioned out to all as you wish, when cut up, let it be handed round by a servant; modesty will then prompt the guests to take but a small portion, and such as perhaps could not be offered to them without disrespect.
Those chop-house cormorants who
“Critique your wine, and analyze your meat, Yet on plain pudding deign at home to eat,”
are generally tremendously officious in serving out the loaves[412] and fishes of other people; for, under the notion of appearing exquisitely amiable, and killingly agreeable to the guests, they are ever on the watch to distribute themselves the dainties412-* which it is the peculiar part of the master and mistress to serve out, and is to them the most pleasant part of the business of the banquet; the pleasure of helping their friends is the gratification which is their reward for the trouble they have had in preparing the feast: such gentry are the terror of all good housewives; to obtain their favourite cut they will so unmercifully mangle your joints, that a lady’s dainty lapdog would hardly get a meal from them afterward; but which, if managed by the considerative hands of an old housekeeper, would furnish a decent dinner for a large family.
The man of manners picks not the best, but rather takes the worst out of the dish, and gets of every thing (unless it be forced upon him) always the most indifferent fare by this civility, the best remains for others; which being a compliment to all that are present, every body will be pleased with it; the more they love themselves, the more they are forced to approve of his behaviour, and gratitude stepping in, they are obliged, almost whether they will or not, to think favourably of him.
After this manner it is that the well-bred man insinuates himself in the esteem of all the companies he comes in; and if he gets nothing else by it, the pleasure he receives in reflecting on the applause which he knows is secretly given him, is to a proud man more than equivalent for his former self-denial, and overpays self-love, with interest, the loss it sustained in his complaisance to others.
If there are seven or eight apples, or peaches, among people of ceremony, that are pretty nearly equal, he who is prevailed on to choose first, will take that which, if there be any considerable difference, a child would know to be the worst.
This he does to insinuate, that he looks upon those he is with to be of superior merit; and that there is not one whom he does not love better than himself. Custom and general practice make this modish deceit familiar to us, without being shocked at the absurdity of it.
“If people had been used to speak from the sincerity of their hearts, and act according to the natural sentiments they felt within, till they were three or four and forty, it would be impossible for them to assist at this comedy of manners without either loud laughter or indigestion; and yet it is cer[413]tain, that such a behaviour makes us more tolerable to one another, than we could be otherwise.”
The master or mistress of the table should appear to continue eating as long as any of the company; and should, accordingly, help themselves in a way that will enable them to give this specimen of good manners without being particularly observed.
“It belongs to the master and mistress, and to no one else, to desire their guests to eat, and, indeed, carving belongs to nobody but the master and mistress, and those whom they think fit to desire, who are to deliver what they cut to the master or mistress, to be by them distributed at their pleasure.”
A seat should be placed for the carver sufficiently elevated to give him a command of the table, as the act of rising to perform this duty is considered ungraceful.
The carving-knife should be light and sharp; and it should be firmly grasped; although in using it, strength is not as essential as skill, particularly if the butcher has properly divided the bones of such joints as the neck, loin, and breast of veal or of mutton.
The dish should not be far from the carver; for when it is too distant, by occasioning the arms to be too much extended, it gives an awkward appearance to the person, and renders the task more difficult.
In carving fish, care should be taken not to break the flakes, and this is best avoided by the use of a fish trowel, which not being sharp, divides it better than a steel knife. Examine this little drawing, and you will see how a cod’s head and shoulders should be carved. The head and shoulders of a cod contain the richest and best part of this excellent fish.
Fig. 1.
[414]The first piece may be taken off in the direction of a b, by putting in the trowel at the back or thick part of the fish, and the rest in successive order. A small part of the sound should be given with each slice, and will be found close to the back-bone, by raising the thin flap d. It is known by being darker coloured and more transparent than the other parts of the fish. Almost every part of a cod’s head is considered good; the palate, the tongue, the jelly, and firm parts, e e, upon and immediately around the jaw and bones of the head, are considered as delicate eating by many persons.
Fig. 2.
A boiled fowl has the legs bent inward (see fig. 2), and fastened to the sides by a skewer, which is removed before the fowl is sent to table. A roasted fowl should not have any part of the legs cut off, as in the boiled fowl; but after they have been properly scraped and washed, they are drawn together at the very extremity of the breast. A boiled and a roasted fowl are each carved in the same manner. The wings are taken off in the direction of a to b (fig. 2). Your knife must divide the joint, but afterward you have only to take firm hold of the pinion with your fork, draw the wings towards the legs, and you will find that the muscles separate better than if you cut them with your knife. Slip your knife between the leg and the body, and cut to the bone, then with the fork turn the leg back, and, if the fowl be not a very old one, the joints will give way.
Fig. 3.
After the four quarters are thus removed, enter the knife at the breast, in the direction c d (fig. 3), and you will separate the merrythought from the breast-bone; and by placing your knife under it, lift it up, pressing it backward on the dish, and you will easily remove that bone. The collar-bones, e e, lie on each side the merrythought, and are to be lifted up at the broad end, by the knife, and forced towards the breast-bone, till the part which is fastened to it breaks off. The breast is next to be[415] separated from the carcass, by cutting through the ribs on each side, from one end of the fowl to the other. The back is then laid upward, and the knife passed firmly across it, near the middle, while the fork lifts up the other end. The side bone are lastly to be separated; to do which turn the back from you, and on each side the back-bone, in the direction of g g (fig. 4), you will find a joint, which you must separate, and the cutting up of the fowl will be complete.
Fig. 4.
Ducks and partridges are to be cut up in the same manner; in the latter, however, the merrythought is seldom separated from the breast, unless the birds are very large.
Fig. 6.
Turkeys and geese have slices cut on each side of the breast-bone, and by beginning to cut from the wing upwards to the breast-bone, many more slices may be obtained than if you cut from the breast-bone to the wings, although I do not think the slices are quite as handsome as if cut in the latter method.
Pigeons (see fig. 6) are either cut from the neck to a, which is the fairest way, or from b to c, which is now the most fashionable mode; and the lower part is esteemed the best.
Fig. 7.
There are two ways of carving a hare. When it is young, the knife may be entered near the shoulder at a (see fig. 7),[416] and cut down to b, on each side of the backbone; and thus the hare will be divided into three parts. The back is to be again divided into four parts, where the dotted lines are in the cut: these and the legs are considered the best parts, though the shoulders are preferred by some, and are to be taken off in the direction of c d e. The pieces should be laid neatly on the plates, as they are separated, and each plate served with stuffing and gravy. When the hare is old, it is better not to attempt the division down the back, which would require much strength; but the legs should be separated from the body at f, and then the meat cut off from each side, and divided into moderate sized pieces. If the brains and ears are required, cut off the head, and put your knife between the upper and lower jaw, and divide them, which will enable you to lay the upper jaw flat on the dish: then force the point of your knife into the centre, and having cut the head into two parts, distribute the brains with the ears to those who like them.
Rabbits are carved in the same manner as a hare, except that the back is divided only into two pieces, which, with the legs, are considered the most delicate parts.
Fig. 8.
A ham is generally cut in the direction of a to b, (fig. 8) down to the bone, and through the prime part of the ham. Another way is to cut a small hole at c, and to enlarge it by cutting circular pieces out of it; this method brings you to the best part of the ham directly, and has an advantage over the other in keeping in the gravy.
Fig. 9.
A leg of mutton is more easily carved than any other joint, but nevertheless there is a mode of doing it neatly, which should be observed. The first slice should be taken out at a (fig. 9), between the knuckle b and the thick end; and the[417] second and subsequent slices should be cut in this direction, until you are stopped by the cramp-bone at c; then turn it up, and take the remaining slices from the back, in a longitudinal direction. When the leg is rather lean, help some fat from the broad end with each slice. The best and most juicy slices are toward the broad end: but some persons prefer the knuckle: and where economy is an object, the knuckle should always be eaten when the joint is hot, as it becomes very dry when cold. If the joint is to be brought again to table, it has a much neater and more respectable appearance if it be helped, altogether, from the knuckle end, when it is hot. This direction may appear trifling; but a good economist knows the importance of carving, when the circumstances of a family require that a joint be brought a second time to table.
Fig. 10.
A haunch of venison (fig. 10) should be cut down to the[418] bone in the direction of the line a b c, by which means the gravy is allowed to flow out: then the carver, turning the broad end of the haunch toward him, should cut in deep from b to d. He then cuts thin slices in the same direction, taking care to give to each person whom he helps a due proportion of fat, which is, by lovers of venison, highly prized: there is generally more of this delicacy on the left side of b d than on the other side.
A haunch of mutton is carved in the same manner as venison.
Fig. 11.
A saddle of mutton (fig. 11) is cut from the tail to the end on each side the back-bone, in the direction of the lines a b, continuing downward to the edge c, until it become too fat. The slices should be cut thin, and if the joint be a large one, they may be divided into two parts. The fat will be found on the sides.
A sucking pig is cut up before it is sent to table. The ribs may be divided into two parts as well as the joints. The ribs are considered the finest part, and the neck end under the shoulder. Part of the kidneys should be added to each helping.
A shoulder of mutton, if properly roasted, is supposed to yield many choice pieces, but this depends very much upon the carver. The first cut should be in the direction c b (fig. 12); and, after taking a few slices on each side of the gap[419] which follows the first cut, some good slices may be obtained on each side of the ridge of the shoulder blade, in the direction c d. When the party is numerous, slices may be taken from the under side; and it is on this side, under the edge e, that the fat is found.419-*
Fig. 12.
Buttock of Beef
Is always boiled, and requires no print to point out how it should be carved. A thick slice should be cut off all round the buttock, that your friends may be helped to the juicy and prime part of it. The outside thus cut off, thin slices may then be cut from the top; but as it is a dish that is frequently brought to table cold a second day, it should always be cut handsome and even. When a slice all round would be considered too much, the half, or a third, may be given with a thin slice of fat. On one side there is a part whiter than ordinary, by some called the white muscle. In some places, a buttock is generally divided, and this white part sold separate, as a delicacy; but it is by no means so, the meat being coarse and dry; whereas the darker-coloured parts, though apparently of a coarser grain, are of a looser texture, more tender, fuller of gravy, and better flavoured; and men of distinguishing palates ever prefer them.
412-* He who greedily grapples for the prime parts, exhibits indubitable evidence that he came for that purpose. 419-* Another way of carving a shoulder of mutton, and one which many persons prefer, is in slices from the knuckle to the broad end of the shoulder beginning on the outside. See the lines f and g.
[420]
[421]
INDEX.
The Figures in the body of the Index refer to the Number of the Receipts; those in the column, under the word Page, to where the Receipts are to be found; and those preceded by Ap., to the Receipts in the Appendix.
Page Acid of lemon, artificial, 407* 274 Accum on Adulterations, quoted, note to 433 280 An alderman in chains, 57 135 A-la-mode beef, or veal, or English turtle, 502 312 Allspice, essence of, 412 275 —— tincture of, 413 ib. —— Sir H. Sloane on, note 92 Almond custards (Ap. 54.) 375 Anchovy sauce, 270 232 —— essence, 433 279 —— toast, 573 354 —— butter,—— paste,}434 282 —— powder, 435 ib. —— to keep them well, Obs. to 270 233 Apicius, his sauce for boiled chicken 35 Appetite, good, why the best sauce 52 —— to refresh 38 Appert, his art of preserving vegetables, note 164 Apple pie (Ap. 32.) 369 —— pudding, boiled (Ap. 112.) 397 —— dumplings, ditto (Ap. 113.) ib. —— tart, creamed (Ap. 33.) 369 —— sauce, 304 242 Apples, to dry (Ap. 83.) 384 Apricot jam (Ap. 93.) 387 Artichokes, 136 166 —— Jerusalem, 117 160 Asparagus, 123 161 —— soup, 222 206 Arrack, to imitate, 480 299 Arbuthnot, Dr., quoted, Preface viii. Abernethy, Mr., quoted, note 20
Bacon, 13 117 —— slices of, 526 324 —— relishing rashers of, 527 ib. —— sparerib, to roast 132 Bain-Marie, note to 485 and 529* 304. 326 Baking 72 Baked custard (Ap. 52.) 375 —— pears (Ap. 82.) 384 Barley water, 565 350 —— broth, 204 199 —— ——, to make a gallon for a groat 210 —— sugar (Ap. 90.) 386 —— drops (Ap. 91.) ib. Basil, when to dry 291 —— vinegar, or wine, 397 269 —— sauce, 264 231 Batter pudding (Ap. 111.) 397 Beans, French, 133 164 Beauty 51 Bechamel, 364 257 Beef bouilli, 5. 238. 493 109. 212. 308 —— how nutritive and economical, 5 109 —— to salt, 6 111 —— savoury, 496 310 —— a round of, salted, to boil, 7 113 —— what the outside slices are good for, N. B. to 7 ib. —— H-Bone, 8 ib. —— ribs, and rolled, 9 114 —— baron of 34 —— sirloin, roasted, 19 122 —— proper way to carve, in note to 19 123 —— as mock hare, 66* 141 —— ribs, roasted, 20 123 —— ditto, boned and rolled, 21 124 —— steaks, to fry, 85 148 —— steak pudding (Ap. 24.) 367 —— season for, see note to 94 151 —— with onions, 86 148 —— to broil, 94 151 —— the superlative steak ib. —— Macbeth’s receipt, and le véritable bif-teck de Beauvilliers, N. B. to 94 152 —— to stew, 500 311 —— with onion gravy, 501 312 —— broth, 185 193 —— broth for glaze, or portable soup or sauce, 252 223 —— gravy, 186 194 —— strong gravy, 188 ib. —— cullis, 189 195 [422]—— for poultry, &c. 329 249 —— shin of, soup, 193 196 —— tea, 563 349 —— to hash, 486 304 —— shin, stewed, 493 308 —— brisket, stewed, 494 310 —— haricot, 495 ib. —— Hunter’s savoury, baked or stewed, 496 ib. —— à-la-mode, or English turtle, 502 312 —— to pot, 503 314 —— bubble and squeak, 505 316 —— hashed, and bones broiled, 506 317 —— cold, broiled, &c. 487 304 Beer, to recover when hard, 468 295 —— to bottle, 468 ib. —— cup, 464 294 Beet roots, 127 162 —— —— to pickle (Ap. 119.) 402 Biscuit drops (Ap. 68.) 380 Bishop, essence of, 412 275 Birch, his excellent mock turtle, note under 247 219 Black cock, 71 144 Blancmange (Ap. 46.) 373 Boiling 66 Boiled custard (Ap. 53.) 375 Bouillon de santé, 196 197 Bonne bouche for geese, pork, &c. 341 251 Brandy, how to obtain genuine Cognac 296 Bread, to make (Ap. 100.) 390 —— sauce, 321 246 —— sippets, fried, 319 ib. —— crumbs, do. 320 ib. —— pudding, 556 344 Broccoli, 126 162 —— pickled, (Ap. 122.) 403 Bride, or wedding cake (Ap. 56.) 376 Brill, 143 169 Brains are sadly dependent on the bowels 20 —— Dr. Cadogan’s obs. thereon, note 21 Brain balls 266 Broiling, see the 4th chapter of Rudiments of Cookery 82 Brose, Scotch, 205* 201 Brunswick tourte (Ap. 45.) 373 Broth, see the 7th chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery 89 —— black 35 —— of fragments 54 —— beef, 185 193 —— to clarify, 252* 227 —— mutton, 194 196 —— mock ditto, 195 197 —— with cutlets, 490 307 —— Scotch barley, 204 199 —— for sick, 564 350 Browning, to colour soup and sauce, &c. 322 246 Bill of fare for a week 56 Buns, plain (Ap. 77.) 382 —— cross (Ap. 78.) 383 —— seed (Ap. 79.) ib. —— plum (Ap. 80.) ib. —— Bath (Ap. 65.) 379 Burnet vinegar has the same taste as cucumber, 399 270 —— —— sauce, 264 231 Burgoo, Scotch, 572* 353 Butler’s directions for drying herbs, 461 290 —— —— to market for vegetables 359 Butler, Obs. on the business of a note 39 Butter, best manner of melting 228 —— to recover when oiled 229 —— clarified, 259 230 —— burnt, 260 ib. —— oiled, 260* ib.
Catholic Families, cookery for, 158. 224 178. 207 Cabbage, 118 160 —— boiled and fried, or bubble and squeak, 119. 505 160. 316 Cakes, common seed (Ap. 59.) 377 —— rich, yest (Ap. 60.) 378 —— queen, or heart (Ap. 61.) ib. —— Shrewsbury (Ap. 63.) ib. —— Banbury (Ap. 64.) 379 —— Savoy, or sponge (Ap. 67.) 380 —— Ratafia (Ap. 71.) 381 —— almond sponge (Ap. 72.) ib. —— diet bread (Ap. 74.) ib. —— Derby, or short (Ap. 87.) 385 —— Yorkshire (Ap. 104.) 391 Calf, a fatted, preferred to a starved turtle, 247 221 ——’s head to boil, 10 114 —— —— to hash, 10 115 —— —— ragoût, 520 321 —— —— mock turtle, 247 219 —— feet jelly, 481 299 Camp vinegar, 403 271 Carp, stewed, 158 177 Carrots, 129 163 —— soup, 212 201 Carving, best rule for 43 —— ancient terms of, note ib. Catsup of mushrooms, 439 283 —— double ditto, or dog-sup 284 —— of walnuts, 438 282 —— of oysters, 441 285 —— of cockles, 442 ib. —— of cucumbers, 399 270 —— pudding, 446 285 Caper sauce, 274 233 —— —— mock, 275 ib. Capon, to roast, 58 136 Capillaire, 476 297 Caramel, to boil sugar to, (Ap. 85.) 385 Cauliflower, 125 162 —— pickled (App. 122.) 403 [423]Caudle, 572 353 Cautions to carvers 44 Cayenne, how to make, 404 272 —— essence of, 405 273 Celery soup, 214 202 —— sauce, 289, 290 238 —— seed, substitute for celery, note 92 —— essence, 409 275 Chantilly basket (Ap. 51.) 375 Cheap soup, 229 208 Cheese and toast, 538*, 539 330 —— toasted, 540 331 —— buttered ditto, 541 ib. —— pounded or potted, 542 ib. Cheesecakes (Ap. 40.) 371 —— lemon, ditto (Ap. 41.) 372 —— orange, ditto (Ap. 42.) ib. —— almond, ditto (Ap. 43.) ib. Cherries, dried (Ap. 95.) 387 Chervil sauce, 264 231 Chili vinegar, 405* 273 —— wine, 406 ib. Chicken. See Fowl. —— pie (Ap. 16.) 364 —— and ham patties (Ap. 29.) 368 Chops, mutton, pork, beef, to broil, 94 151 —— to fry, 85 148 —— to stew, 490 307 —— relish for, 423 278 —— sauce for, 356 255 Cinnamon, essence of, 416 276 —— tincture of, 416* ib. Claret, best wine for sauces, &c. 95 Clarified syrup, 475 297 Clarify broth, to, 252* 227 Clove and mace, essence of, 414 276 —— —— —— tincture of, 415 ib. Cockle catchup, 442 285 Cod, boiled, 149 172 —— the tail filleted, note under 149 ib. —— slices boiled, 151 174 —— skull stewed, 158 177 —— shaved, and sold for whitings, Obs. to 153 175 Cold meat, to broil with poached eggs, 487 304 —— ditto, to warm, the best way 54 —— fish 53 —— —— sauce for, 453, 359, and 307 287, 255, 243 —— veal, an excellent dish of, 512 319 —— fowl, ditto, 533 328 Colouring for soup and sauce, 322 246 —— a frequent cause of adulteration, 322 247 Committee of taste 17 Consommé, 252 223 Coffee, to make 340 Cooks, friendly advice to 46 —— hints to 53 —— ditto, when they have a very large dinner 62 Cooks, cause of the scarcity of good ones 310 —— deserve good wages 23 —— a manor given to one by William the Conqueror 22 —— Obs. concerning their health, note 26 Cook-teaser, where not to put him 44 Cooking animals, dine only once a month, note 17 Cookery, Descartes’s observations on 19 —— Dr. Johnson’s ditto 20 —— theory of, note ib. —— importance of 21 —— Dr. Stark vii. —— the analeptic part of physic 19 —— Dr. Mandeville viii. —— Arbuthnot ib. —— Parmentier x. —— Sylvester’s Obs. on, note 20 —— best books on, note ib. —— theory of the processes of, from the Encyclopædia Brit. note ib. —— opinion of a cook on books of 32 Coquus Magnus, or Master Kitchener 22 Coullis, or thickened gravy, 189 195 Coup d’aprés 94 Crab, to boil, 177 188 Crawfish soup, 235 211 —— ditto, pounded alive, recommended by Mons. Clermont, 235 ib. Cream, clouted, 388 267 Cranberry tart (Ap. 37.) 370 Croquante of paste (Ap. 86.) 385 Cottage potato pudding (Ap. 115.) 398 Crisp parsley, 318 245 Currant jelly, 479* 298 Curry powder, 455 287 —— soup, 249 222 —— sauce, 348 254 —— balls, 382 266 —— to dress, 497 311 Curaçoa, how to make, 474 296 Custard pudding 347 Cider cup, 465 294 Culinary curiosities 32 Crane 34 Curlews ib. Cat in gely ib. Corks 106 Cement for sealing bottles ib. Caw-caw bones, N.B. 1 108 Cow heel, to dress, 18* 122 Cress sauce, 264 231 —— vinegar, 397* 269 Cucumber, stewed, 135 165 —— vinegar, 399 270 —— to preserve (Ap. 98.) 389 Carp, to stew, 158 177 Charity, the greatest 24 [424]Crumpets (Ap. 103.) 391
Devil, 538 329 —— his venison 33 —— sauce for 255 —— biscuit, 574 354 Damson cheese (Ap. 89.) 386 Digestion, how important 19 Dripping pan 76 Dripping, to clarify, 83 146 —— Mrs. Melroe and Dr. Stark’s Obs. on, 83 147 —— soup 210 Duck, to roast, 61 139 —— bonne bouche for, 341 251 —— to hash, 530 326 —— cold, to warm, 535 329 —— wild, to roast, 74 144 Dutch salad, Obs. to 372 261 Dinner, seven chances against its being properly dressed, note 22 —— hints for preparing a large, p. 62, 63; a good one for 5d., 204 199 —— invitation to 36 —— importance of punctuality, the only act which cannot be postponed 37 —— arrangements of guests at 40 —— rules for behaviour at, from the Accomplished Lady’s Delight, note 29 —— hints for providing 38 —— Obs. on second courses, &c. ib. —— punishment for not being punctual at 42 —— Boileau’s Obs. on ib. —— Hints to those who dine out 44
Edge bone of beef, see H-bone, 8 113 —— —— ways of spelling 114 Education of a cook’s tongue 52 Eels, stewed, Wiggy’s way, 164 181 —— pickled, 161 180 —— fried, 165 182 —— pie (Ap. 22.) 366 —— spitchocked, 166 182 —— soup, 225 207 Eggs, to preserve for twelve months, see N.B. to 547 338 —— sauce, 267 232 —— fried with bacon, 545 336 —— ragoût, 545* 337 —— with minced bacon, 549 339 —— poached, 546 337 —— ditto, with minced ham, 548 338 —— boiled in the shell, 547 ib. —— ditto, for a salad, 372 260 —— various ways of dressing egg and ham patties (Ap. 88.) 386 Epictetus, a relish for, 27 125 Eschalot sauce, 294 239 —— vinegar, 401 271 —— wine, 402 ib. Essence of turtle, 343 252 Essence of ham, 351 254 —— where to buy it, 351 ib. —— of mushrooms, 440 285 —— of oysters, 441 ib. —— of anchovy, 433 280 —— of Cayenne, 405 273 —— lemon peel, 407 ib. —— ditto, 408 274 —— of celery, 409 275 —— ginger, 411 ib. —— allspice, 412 ib. —— clove, 414 276 —— mace, 414 ib. —— cinnamon, 416 ib. —— marjoram, 417 277 —— sweet herbs, 417* ib. —— soup herbs, 420 ib. —— eschalot, 402 271 —— soup herbs and savoury spice, 422 277 Epicure, the editor’s definition of note 17 —— the temperate man the greatest 19 Economy, the first rule of comfortable, note 61
Fawn, 65 140 Fennel and butter for mackerel, 265 231 Fish, see the 6th chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery 86 —— cold, to redress 53 —— fecundity of, note 86 —— how to market for 358 —— to stew, 158 177 —— soups, 225 207 —— forcemeat, 383 266 —— sauce, 425 278 —— to pickle, 161 180 Forcemeat, to make, 373 262 —— materials used for 263 —— for veal, 375 264 —— for turkey, 377 265 —— for goose, 378 ib. —— for hare, 379 ib. —— balls, for mock turtle and made dishes, 380 ib. —— egg ditto, 381 266 —— curry ditto, 382 ib. —— zest, &c. 386 ib. —— of fish for maigre dishes, 383 ib. —— to mix orange and lemon peel, 387 ib. Flip, 466 294 Flounders, 155 175 Fowls, to boil one half and roast the other at the same time 33 —— to boil, 16 119 —— to roast, 58 136 —— to broil, 97 154 —— hashed, 533 328 —— pulled, 534 ib. —— to dress cold, 535 329 [425]—— Apicius’s sauce for 35 French beans, 133 164 —— —— pickled (Ap. 118.) 402 —— tart of preserved fruit (Ap. 35.) 370 —— bread and rolls (Ap. 100*) 390 Froth roast meat, to 78 Frogges, fried 34 Fare, bill of, for a week 56 Frying 80 Flavour, agents employed to soups and sauces, note under 104 Flounders, fried or boiled, 155 175 Fritters, 558 344 Fruit, to preserve, without sugar (Ap. 99.) 390
Game, to render immediately ripe for roasting 58 —— soup, 242 216 Garlic vinegar, 400 270 —— sauce, 272 233 —— gravy, 311 244 Giblets, stewed, 531 328 —— soup, 244 216 —— pie (Ap. 14.) 363 Gherkins (Ap. 117.) 402 Gigot de Sept Heures, N.B. to 1 108 Ginger, essence of, 411 275 —— preserved (Ap. 97.) 389 Gingerbread nuts (Ap. 76.) 382 Goose, Dr. Stark says is the most nutritive food 138 —— to roast, 59 137 —— ditto, alive 33 —— to persuade one to roast himself! 1 ib. —— how the liver is fattened for the Strasburg pies. In note to 59 137 —— to hash, 530 326 —— green, 60 138 —— mock, 51 131 —— bonne bouche for, 341 251 —— relish for, 341 ib. Gourds, various ways of dressing 348 Gourmand defined, note 17 Gourmandize, to guard against, note 23 Gooseberry sauce, 263 231 Gravy, read the 8th chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery 100 —— for poultry, ragoûts, &c., 329 249 —— onion, 299 241 —— garlic, 311 244 —— game, 337 251 —— for wild duck, 338 ib. —— roasted meat, 326 248 —— boiled, 327 249 —— wow wow for salted or stewed beef, 328 249 —— for grills and broils, &c., 355 254 —— for chops and steaks, 356 255 —— relish for chops and steaks, 423 278 —— for cold meat or poultry, &c., 359 255 —— hashes of mutton, &c., 360 256 —— ditto, veal, 361 257 —— for venison, of wine, 344 253 —— of vinegar, 345 ib. —— for venison, of currant jelly, 346 ib. —— of mutton, 347 ib. —— brown colouring for, 322 246 —— portable, 252 223 —— soup, 200 198 —— vegetable, ditto, 224 207 Green pease, 134 164 —— soup, 216 203 —— maigre, ditto, 217 ib. Green gages, preserved in syrup (Ap. 96.) 388 Grill sauce, 355 254 Grouse, 73 144 Gruel, water, various ways of making and flavouring, 572 352 Guinea fowl, 69* 143 Glasse, Mrs., her Cookery 20 Gridiron 82
Haddock, 157 176 —— Findhorn, ditto, 157* ib. Haggis, a good Scotch, 488* 305 Ham, to boil, 14 118 —— to pot, 509 318 —— slices of broiled, 526 324 —— essence of, 351 354 —— where to buy, ditto, 351 ib. Hare, roast, 66 140 —— jugged, 529* 325 —— soup, 241 215 —— mock, 66* 141 —— hashed, 529 325 —— pie (Ap. 11.) 362 Haricot of mutton, lamb, veal, or beef, 489 306 —— of beef, 495 310 Hashes, mutton, 484 303 —— to warm up, 485 304 —— beef, 486 ib. —— veal, 511 318 —— venison, 528 325 —— cold calf’s head, 519 321 —— ditto, 10 114 —— calf’s head or ragoût, 520 321 —— hare, 529 325 —— duck or goose, 530 326 —— poultry, game, or rabbit, 533 328 —— sauce for, 360 256 Haunch (see H.) bone of beef, 8 113 Herbs, when, and how to dry, 461 290 Herrings, pickled, 171 185 —— broiled, 171* ib. —— red ditto, 172 186 Horseradish powder, 458* 289 —— vinegar, 399* 270 Housekeeping, plan of 27 —— book ib. [426]Horse powdered 34 Hill, Dr., author of Mrs. Glasse’s Cookery 20 Hanger, Col., quoted, his hints for guarding against “la Gourmandize,” note 23 Hudson, the dwarf, served up in a pie 34
Icing for fruit tarts, &c. (Ap. 31.) 369 —— for twelfth cake (Ap. 84.) 384 Indigestion 38 —— lozenges for, note ib. —— remedy for 39 Invitations, how to send 41 —— to answer ib. Indian or mixed pickle (Ap. 123.) 404 Independence, the road to 64 Italian salad, see Obs. to 372 261 —— cream (Ap. 48.) 374 —— macaroons (Ap. 70.) 380 Irish stew, Mrs. Phillips’s, 488 305 —— ditto, Mr. Morrison’s, 488 ib.
Jack, to dress, 158 177 Jacks, Obs. on 74 Jelly, ox heel, 198 197 —— calf’s feet, 481 299 —— of currants and other fruits, 479* 298 Jerusalem artichokes, 117 160 Jockey, how to waste 190 Johnson’s brandy and liqueurs, 471 296 Johnson, Dr., quoted 20
Kay, Mr., of Albion House, wines, &c., Obs. to 94 243 Kelly’s sauce for calf head or cow heel, 311 244 —— ditto, for sauce piquante, 311* ib. Kid, to roast, 65* 140 Kidneys, to broil, 95 153 Kitchen maid, business of a 25 Kitchen fire place, best ornaments for 64 —— chimney should be swept often 54 —— utensils 89 Kitchiner, Dr., quoted, note, 572 30
Life, the art of invigorating and prolonging vii. Lacedæmon, black broth of 35 —— ditto sauce ib. Lamb, to broil, 3 109 —— to roast, 40 129 —— sham lamb, ditto, 40 ib. —— hind quarter, 41 ib. —— fore quarter, 42 130 —— leg, 43 ib. —— shoulder, 44 ib. —— to goosify, ditto, note to 51 131 —— ribs, 45 130 —— loin, 46 130 —— neck, 47 ib. —— breast, 48 ib. —— chops, 93 150 —— shoulder, grilled, 491 307 —— lamb’s fry, 492 308 Larders, proper, note 57 Larks, 80 146 Lemon chips (Ap. 94.) 387 —— syrup, 391 267 —— sauce, 273 233 —— juice, artificial, 407* 274 Lemon and liver sauce, 287 237 —— peel essence, 407 273 —— quintessence ditto, 408 274 —— tincture ditto, 408* ib. Lemonade in a minute, 477 297 Liquamen of the Romans 35 Liqueurs, 471 296 Lister, Mrs., leg of beef soup. See shin of beef soup. Liver of a goose. See note under 59 137 —— and parsley sauce, 287 237 —— ditto for fish, 288 238 Lobster, to roast, 82 146 —— to boil, 176 187 —— sauce, 284 236 —— sauce for lobster, 285 237 —— soup, 237 211 —— potted, 178 183 —— patties (Ap. 27.) 368 —— salad, 372 260 —— spawn, to preserve, N.B. to 284 236 Lozenges 38
Macaroni, 543 332 —— soup, see Obs. to 200 198 Mackerel, boiled, 167 183 —— broiled, 169 184 —— baked, 170 ib. —— pickled, 171 185 —— roe sauce, 266 231 Made dishes, Obs. on. See 9th chapter of Rudiments of Cookery 106 —— —— economical ditto, 483 300 Magazine of Taste 292 Maigre forcemeat, 383 266 —— plum pudding, 554 342 Mandeville, Dr., quoted, Preface viii. Manners, the importance of good 42 Marjoram, essence of, 417 277 Marrow bones, 544 336 Meat, soup from any, boiled 69 Melroe, Mrs., her Econom. Cookery, quoted, note to 83 147 Melted butter 228 Minced collops 306 Mince pies (Ap. 38.) 371 —— meat (Ap. 39.) 372 Mint sauce, 303 242 —— vinegar, 398 270 Mock turtle soup, 247 219 —— ditto, do. by E. Lister, 245 218 [427]Mille feuilles (Ap. 44.) 372 Moor game, 72 144 Morels, Obs. on 89 Mulled wine, aromatic, essence for, 412 275 Mustard, to make, 370 259 —— to make in a minute, 369 ib. —— ditto, to keep, 427 278 —— seed oil 404 Manners, barbarous, of the sixteenth century 29 —— good effects of good 42 —— bad effects of bad 43 Measures, glass ones 31 Meat, how long it must hang to be tender 57 —— if frozen ib. —— killing it by electricity makes it tender immediately 58 Marketing 61 —— best rule for ib. —— ditto 56 Marketing Tables, for meat 355 —— —— poultry 357 —— —— vegetables 359 Meat skreen 77 Meat cakes, 504* 316 Mutton, to boil a leg, 1 108 —— neck, 2 109 Mutton, 23 124 —— roast, a leg, 24 125 —— ditto, saddle, 26 ib. —— shoulder, 27 ib. —— loin, 28 ib. —— neck, 29 126 —— breast, 30 ib. —— haunch, 31 ib. —— ditto, venison fashion, 32 ib. —— or veal pie (Ap. 10.) 362 —— chops, 92 150 —— ditto, stewed, 490 307 —— broth, 194. 564 196. 350 —— —— mock, 195 197 —— to hash, 484 303 —— haricot, 489 306 —— mullaga-tawny soup, 249 222 Mushroom sauce, 305 242 —— ditto, brown, 306 243 —— extempore, 307 ib. —— catchup, 439 283 —— quintessence of, 440 285 Marrow bones, 544 336 —— vegetable 348 Muffins (Ap. 102.) 391
Nutmeg, tincture of, 413* 276 —— grater, the best 65
Omelettes, 543* 333 Onion, Obs. on, note 91 —— pickled (Ap. 121.) 403 —— stewed, 137 166 —— young, sauce, 296 240 —— sauce, 297 ib. —— —— white, 298 240 —— —— brown, 299 241 —— sage and, 300 ib. Orange jelly (Ap. 47.) 373 —— gingerbread (Ap. 75.) 382 Orgeat (Ap. 81.) 383 Ox cheek, stewed, 507 317 —— —— portable soup of, 252 224 Ox tails, stewed, 508 318 Ox head soup, 239 213 Ox tail soup, 240 214 Ox heel jelly, 198 197 —— —— soup, 240* 214 Oysters, how to feed and preserve their lives, and how to tickle them to death, 181 189 —— certainly not so nutritive as supposed, N.B. to 181 190 —— native, those that are born and bred in the Burnham rivers, note to 181 189 —— essence of, 441 285 —— scalloped, 182 191 —— stewed, 182* 192 —— fried, 183 ib. —— sauce, 278 234 —— preserved in powder, 280 234 —— patties (Ap. 26.) 368 Osborne, H. Cook to Sir J. Banks xi. 52 —— ditto, his receipts for puddings, &c., 560 345 Oatmeal, a substitute for bread crumbs, note 82
Pancakes, 558 344 Paregoric elixir, 570 352 Pharmacopœia, Appendix to x. Parmentier, quoted, Preface ib. Parsley and butter, 261 230 —— to preserve, N.B. to 261 231 —— fried, 317 245 —— crisp, 318 246 Partridges, 70 143 —— soup, 241 215 Paste for croquants, or cut pastry (Ap. 8.) 361 —— for meat or savoury pies (Ap. 2.) 360 —— for boiled puddings (Ap. 6.) 361 —— for stringing tartlets, &c. (Ap. 7.) ib. Pease, to boil, 134 164 —— pudding, 555 343 —— —— how to make for half the usual expense, note to 555 ib. —— soups, 218. 220 203. 205 —— ditto, in five minutes, Obs. to 555 343 —— curry pease soup, note to 218 205 —— celery ditto, ditto, 218 204 —— plain pease soup, 221 206 Parsnips, 128 163 Peristaltic persuaders 39 Peptic Precepts, quoted ib. Pease powder, 458 289 Perch, fried, 159 179 [428]—— boiled, 160 179 —— stewed, 158 177 Pheasant, 68 142 —— mock ditto, 69 143 —— criterion of its being “assez mortifiée,” Obs. on 68 142 Pickles, Obs. on 398 —— pounded ib. —— wholesome substitute for, 398, 399 Pigeons, roast, 78 145 —— to broil, 98 154 —— or lark pie (Ap. 13.) 363 Pig, sucking, 56 133 Pettitoes or sucking pig’s feet, 12 171 Piquante vinegar, 453 287 Plaice, fried, 155 175 Plain pound cake (Ap. 57.) 377 Plum pudding, 553 341 Plum pudding sauce, 269 232 Plum pound cake (Ap. 58.) 377 Poached eggs, 546 337 Poor man’s sauce, 310 243 Poor, soup for, 229 208 Papin, Dr., his Digester, note 223 Pork, the season for it, and the accompaniments, &c., 49 130 —— to roast a leg, 50 131 —— to boil ditto, 11 116 —— to roast without the skin on, 51 131 —— mock goose, 51 ib. —— to lambify the leg of a porkling, see note to 51 ib. —— griskin, 52 132 —— sparerib, 53 ib. —— loin, 54 ib. —— chine, 55 133 —— to salt, 6 112 —— to boil, pickled, 11 116 —— how to score after you have boiled it, 11 ib. —— chops, to fry, 93 150 —— sausages, 87 148 Poivrade sauce, 365 259 Portable soup, 252 223 Pot top, best fat for frying, Obs. to 83 147 —— —— liquor 54 —— —— to convert into pease soup in five minutes, N.B. to 555 343 Potatoes, 16 ways of dressing, 102 155 —— to redress cold, 102* 156 —— boiled and broiled, 103 ib. —— fried in slices, 104 ib. —— fried whole, 105 157 —— mashed, 106 ib. —— ditto, with onion, 107 ib. —— escalloped, 108 ib. —— roasted, 109 158 —— under meat, 110 ib. —— balls, 111 ib. —— savoury, 112 ib. —— snow, 114 ib. —— gipsy pie, 115 159 —— new, 116 ib. —— mucilage or starch, 448 286 —— flour ib. —— colcannon, 108* 157 Potted beef, veal, game, &c., 503 314 —— —— veal, game, &c., why in season at the same time as mock turtle, note under 247 219 Potted ham, &c., 509 318 Prawns, 175 187 Poultry, to render immediately ripe for roasting 58 —— marketing tables for 357 Pudding, my, 554 341 —— plum, 553 ib. —— ditto, do. sauce for, 269 232 —— suet, 551 340 —— Yorkshire, 552 341 —— pease, 555 343 —— macaroni, 543 332 —— batter 346 —— bread and butter, boiled and baked, 557 344 —— Boston apple 345 —— spring fruit ib. —— Nottingham ib. —— Newmarket 346 —— Newcastle or cabinet ib. —— Vermicelli ib. —— bread ib. —— custard 347 —— boiled ditto ib. —— college (Ap. 105.) 395 —— rice, baked or boiled ib. —— ground ib. —— save-all (Ap. 110.) 396 Puddings and pies, Obs. on 392 Pudding catchup, 446 285 Puff paste (Ap. 1.) 360 Pulled turkey, chicken, &c., 534 328 Punch, directly, 478 298 —— essence of, to make, 479 ib. Purger souvent les Cuisiniers (de la nécessité) 26 Pig’s pettitoes, 12 117 Politeness, ancient rules for, note 29 Porpus 33 Pie, Jeffery Hudson served up in one 34 Provisions, how to procure the best, 61. 357 Pepper, Obs. on 93 —— double headed boxes 65
Queen’s drops (Ap. 62.) 378 Quin’s sauce, 425 278 —— ditto, Obs. on Ann Chovy’s marriage, in note to 433 281
Rabbit, roast, 67 142 —— boiled, 17 121 —— broiled, 97 154 —— soup, 241 215 —— pie (Ap. 17.) 365 —— a Welch, 539 330 Ragoût beef, see Obs. to 493 309 [429]—— sauce, 329 249 —— savoury powder, 457 288 —— quintessence of ditto, 460 290 —— of poultry, to dress, 530* 327 —— breast of veal, 517 319 —— raised pies (Ap. 5.) 361 —— French pies (Ap. 18.) 365 —— ham pie (Ap. 19.) ib. —— pork pie (Ap. 21.) 366 —— lamb pie (Ap. 23.) ib. Raspberry vinegar, 390 266 —— wine or brandy, 469 295 —— jam (Ap. 92.) 387 Red cabbage, pickled (Ap. 120.) 403 Rhubarb, various ways of dressing 347 Rice blancmange (Ap. 109.) 396 —— pudding (Ap. 106.) 395 —— ground pudding (Ap. 107.) ib. —— sauce, 321* 246 —— snowballs (Ap. 108.) 396 Ripe fruit tarts (Ap. 30.) 369 Roasting, see the 2d chapter of Rudiments of Cookery 74 Robert sauce for pork and geese, 342 252 Roe boat ditto, see Obs. to 342 ib. Rouge, see note to 433 281 Roux, see Obs. to 257 229 Rump steak, broiled, 94 151 —— —— stewed, 500 311 —— —— do. with onion gravy, 501 312 —— —— pie (Ap. 15.) 364 Romans ate five meals a day 34 —— their favourite dishes 35 —— liquamen and garum ib.
Sack posset, Sir F. Shepherd’s, 467* 295 Sage and onion sauce, 300 241 Sally Lunn tea cakes (Ap. 101.) 390 Salt, to prepare for table, 371 260 Salt fish, 150 173 Salting meat, 6 111 —— to make it red, 6 ib. —— to make it savoury, 6 112 —— to pickle meat ib. Sandwiches, 504 316 Save-all pudding (Ap. 110.) 396 Scotch haggis, 488* 305 —— collops, 517 321 —— ditto, minced 306 —— gravy, see Obs. to 326 248 —— brose, 205* 201 —— barley broth, 204 199 —— beef, note 123 —— soups, 205 200 —— winter hotch potch, 205 ib. —— leek soup, or cocky leeky, 205 201 —— lamb stew, 205 ib. Salads, Evelyn’s directions about, 138 and 372 166. 260 —— Dutch, French, Italian, &c., Obs. to 372 261 Salad sauce, 372 and 453 260. 287 Salmon, pickled, 161 180 —— boiled, 162 ib. —— broiled, 163 181 Sauce, before you make, read the 8th chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery 100 —— anchovy, 270 232 —— apple, 304 242 —— basil vinegar or wine, 397 269 —— balls for mock turtle, 380 265 —— bechamel, 364 257 —— bottled oyster, 278 234 —— beef gravy, for poultry, 329 249 —— bonne bouche for a goose, 341 251 —— bread, 321 246 —— browning, 322 ib. —— butter, melted, 256 228 —— burnt, ditto, 260 230 —— clarified, ditto, 259 ib. —— oiled, ditto, 260* ib. —— to recover, N.B. to 256 229 —— catchup of mushrooms, 439 283 —— of walnuts, 438 282 —— of cockles, &c., 442 285 —— for puddings, 446 ib. —— camp vinegar, 403 271 —— caper, 274 233 —— celery, 289 238 —— ditto, brown, 290 ib. —— chervil, 264 231 —— Chili vinegar, 405 273 —— crisp parsley, 318 245 —— cucumber, 135 165 —— curry, 348 254 —— egg, 267 232 —— essence of turtle, 343* 252 —— —— of ham, 351 254 —— —— of mushrooms, 440 285 —— —— of oysters, 441 ib. —— —— of Cayenne, 405 273 —— —— of anchovy, 433 280 —— —— of lemon peel, 407 274 —— quintessence of ditto, 408 ib. —— —— essence of celery, 409 275 —— —— of ginger, 411 ib. —— —— of allspice, 412 ib. —— —— of clove,—— —— of mace,}414 276 —— —— of cinnamon, 416 ib. —— —— of soup herbs, 420 277 —— —— of soup herb and savoury spice, 422 ib. —— —— of eschalot, 402 271 —— —— of punch, 479 298 —— eschalot, 294 239 —— ditto, vinegar, 401 271 —— fennel and butter for mackerel, &c., 265 232 —— fish, 425 278 —— forcemeat, to make, 373 262 [430]—— forcemeat balls for mock turtle, 380 265 —— egg balls, 381 266 —— curry ditto, 382 ib. —— fish forcemeat, 383 ib. —— zest ditto, 386 ib. —— for veal, 375 264 —— to mix orange or lemon peel, 387 266 —— gravy for poultry, ragoûts, &c., 329 249 —— ditto for game, 337 251 —— ditto for wild duck, 338 ib. —— ditto of onion, 299 241 —— ditto of garlic, 311 244 —— ditto for roasted meat, 326 248 —— ditto for boiled ditto, 327 249 —— wow wow, for boiled beef, 328 ib. —— wine, see venison, 344 253 —— vinegar for venison, 345 ib. —— mutton ib. —— for grills, 355 254 —— for chops and steaks, 356 255 —— for cold meat or poultry, 359 ib. —— for hashes of mutton, &c., 360 256 —— for ditto of veal, 361 257 —— relish for chops, 423 278 —— gooseberry, 263 231 —— garlic, 272 233 —— ditto gravy, 311 244 —— ditto vinegar, 400 270 —— M. Kelly’s, for calf’s head or cow heel, 311* 244 —— ditto, ditto, piquante, 311* ib. —— lemon, syrup of, 391 267 —— lemonade in a minute, 477 297 —— lemon, 273 233 —— ditto, and liver, or parsley and liver sauce, 287 237 —— liver, for fish, 288 238 —— lobster, 284 236 —— for lobster, 285 237 —— mackerel roe, 266 231 —— green mint, 303 242 —— vinegar, 398 270 —— mushroom, 305 242 —— ditto, brown, 306 243 —— ditto, in five minutes, 307 ib. —— mustard, to make, 370 259 —— ditto, in a minute, 369 ib. —— ditto, to keep, 427 278 —— oyster, 278 234 —— bottled, ditto, 280 ib. —— onion, 297 240 —— ditto, white, for rabbits, &c. 298 ib. —— young onion, 296 ib. —— fried, or brown onion, 299 241 —— sage and onion, 300 ib. —— ox heel jelly, 198 197 —— parsley and butter, 261 230 —— ditto, fried, 317 244 —— ditto, crisp, 318 245 —— pease powder, 458 289 —— pickles, 462 292 —— piquante vinegar, 453 287 —— plum pudding, 269 232 —— poivrade, 365 259 —— poor man’s, 310 243 —— potato mucilage, 448 286 —— ragoût sauce, 329 249 —— ragoût powder, 457 288 —— quintessence of ragoût powder, 460 290 —— rice, 321* 246 —— salad mixture, 372 260 —— salad, 453 287 —— superlative, 429 278 —— box, 462 59. 292 Savoy biscuits (Ap. 69.) 380 Savoys, 120 160 Savoury salt beef, 496 310 Savoury pies, pasties, &c. (Ap. 12.) 363 Soup herb powder, or vegetable relish, 459 289 Shrimps, potted, 175 187 Shrimp sauce, 283 235 Shrub, 479 298 Small puffs of preserved fruit, (Ap. 36.) 370 Snipes, 77 144 Soda water, Obs. on, note 38 Sorrel sauce, 291 238 Sponge biscuits, (Ap. 66.) 379 Sprouts, 121 160 Sparerib of bacon, to roast, 53 132 Spices, Obs. on, 429 279 Soup herb and savoury powder, 460 290 —— spirit, 420, 421, 422 277 Spinage, 122 160 Stock, first, note to 185 193 —— second, note to 185 194 Stuffing, 373 262 —— for hare, 379 265 —— for goose, 378 ib. —— for turkey, 377 ib. —— for veal, 374 264 Suet pudding, 551 340 Syrup, clarified, 475 297 —— of lemon peel, 393 268 —— of lemon, 391 267 —— of orange, 392 268 Stomach, an Englishman’s cooking kettle, Dr. Hunter’s Obs. on; Waterhouse’s ditto, note 15 —— the machinery of life 19 —— Dr. Cheyne’s Obs. on; Abernethy’s ditto 20 Stomachic tincture, 569 352 Spectacles for Gourmands, note 23 Spring fruit, various ways of dressing 347 Sprats, to broil, 170* 185 —— to pickle, 171 185 —— to stew, 170** ib. —— to fry, 173 187 Servants, Rev. Wm. Watkins’ excellent institution for the encouragement of 25 [431]—— friendly advice to 46 —— maxims for 49 Swan 33 Seals 34 Skate, 148 172 Soups, under the name of the article they are made of. Soup, Obs. on 89 —— cheap 91 —— and bouilli, 238 212 Steaks, 85, 94 148. 151 Stew pan 89 Suet, to clarify for frying, &c. 84 147 —— puddings 393 Sausages, to fry, 87 148 Sweetbread, to fry, 88 149 —— do. plain, 89 ib. Sweet, or short and crisp tart paste (Ap. 4.) 360 Sea kale, 124 162 Soles, to boil, 144 169 —— to fry, 145 ib. —— to stew, 146, 158, 164 171. 177. 181 —— filleted, 147 171 Skate, fried, 154 175 Sturgeon, 152 174
Tart paste (Ap. 3.) 360 Tartlets (Ap. 34.) 370 Taste, the Committee of, Preface xi. —— the Magazine of, 462 63. 292 —— varieties of 51 Tastes, six simple, note 53 Tamis, note to, 189 195 Tankard, cool, 464 294 Tarragon sauce, 264 232 —— vinegar, 396 268 Tea, to make, 550 339 Tender, to make meat 58 Tewahdiddle, 467 294 Thickening, or roux, 257 229 —— ditto 98 Toast and water, 463 293 —— and cheese, 539 330 Toasted cheese, 540 331 Tomato sauce, 292 239 —— mock ditto, 293 ib. Tongue to boil, 15 119 —— what the roots are good for, Obs. to 15 ib. Toothache, cure for, 567 351 Tripe, 18 121 Trifle (Ap. 49.) 374 Truffles, Obs. on 95 Turbot, to boil, 140 167 Turkey, to boil, 16 119 —— to fatten and whiten, 16 ib. —— roast, 57 134 —— hash, &c. 533 328 —— pulled, 534 ib. Turnips, 130 163 —— to mash, 131 164 Turnip-tops, 132 164 —— soup, 213 202 Turtle, to dress, 250 223 —— mock ditto, 247, &c. 219 —— Birch’s ditto, excellent note to 247 ib. —— mock mock, ditto, 245 218 —— English, 248 222 —— sauce, 343 252 —— essence, 343* ib. —— hints to turtle eaters, Obs. to 493 309 —— 2500 pounds of, eaten at one dinner, note to 250 223 Twelfth cake (Ap. 55.) 376
Vauxhall nectar, to imitate, 480 299 Veal, to boil, 4 109 —— to roast, 33 127 —— fillet, 34 ib. —— loin, 35 128 —— shoulder, 36 ib. —— neck, best end, 37 ib. —— breast, 38 ib. —— sweetbread, 39 ib. —— cutlet, 90 149 —— ditto, sauce for, 90 ib. —— ditto, full dressed, 521 322 —— broth, 191 195 —— gravy, 192 ib. —— knuckle soup, 193 196 —— stuffing, Roger Fowler’s, 374 264 —— forcemeat, 375 ib. —— breast, stewed, 515 319 —— minced, 511* 318 —— hashed, 511 ib. —— sauce for, 361 257 —— excellent hot ragoût of cold veal, 512 319 —— potted, 503 314 —— breast ragoût, 517 319 —— ditto, with pease, note to 517 320 —— olives, 518 321 —— cutlets, broiled, 521 322 —— knuckle, to ragoût, 522 323 —— with rice, 523 ib. —— Gay’s receipt, ditto, 524 ib. —— and ham patties (Ap. 28.) 368 —— —— —— pie (Ap. 20.) 366 Vegetables, Obs. on. See the 5th chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery 83 Vegetable essences, to extract, 417.* 277 —— marrow 348 —— marketing tables for 359 Venison, to roast a haunch, 63 139 —— neck or shoulder, 64 140 —— to hash, 528 325 —— to vensonify mutton, 32 126 —— the Devil’s 33 —— wine sauce for, 344 253 —— sharp ditto for, 345 ib. —— sweet ditto, 346 ib. —— mutton gravy, 347 ib. [432]—— pasty (Ap. 9.) 362 Vinegar sauce for venison, 345 253 —— burnet or cucumber, 399 270 —— basil, 397 269 —— cress, 397* ib. —— garlic, 400 270 —— horseradish, 399* ib. —— eschalot, 401 271 —— camp, 403 ib. —— piquante, 453 287 —— for salads, 395 268 —— tarragon, 396 ib. —— raspberry, 390 267 —— sweet and savoury herbs, spices, &c., Obs. to 396 269 —— green mint, 398 270 —— pyroligneous, Obs. on 397* 269 Vol au vent (Ap. 25.) 367
Walnuts, to pickle (Ap. 116.) 401 Walnut catchup, 438 282 Water gruel, immediately, 572 352 —— various relishes for, 572 ib. Water souchy, 156 175 Watkins, the Rev. G., his hints to heads of families 25 Welsh rabbit, 539 330 Wheatears, 81 146 White sauce, 364, 365 258 —— wine whey, 566 351 Whitings, fried, 153 174 Whip syllabub (Ap. 50.) 375 Widgeons and teal, 75 144 Wild ducks, 74 ib. Wine sauce for venison, &c., 344 253 —— eschalot, 402 271 Woodcock, 76 144 —— has the same honours paid to it as the Grand Lama, note to 76 ib. Wow wow sauce for boiled beef, 328 249 Weights and measures for cookery, table of 64 Weight, the diminution that takes place in cooking 70
Yorkshire pudding, 552 341
THE END
Transcriber’s Note This recipe was not included this edition of the cookbook. The following typographical errors were corrected: Page Error Correction viii Dr. Mandeville Dr. Mandeville x avail nothing. avail nothing, xiii Confectionary, Confectionery 17 PALATEABLENESS PALATABLENESS 18 appetite.”—Milton appetite.”—Milton. 18 noxious, [text missing] every noxious, and that every based on comparison with a different edition of the book 31 “For instance: For instance: 32 shoulder of mutton,” “shoulder of mutton,” 33 BOILED; BOILED;” Fn. 15-* Waterhouse’ Waterhouse’s Fn. 17-* A. C., Jun. A. C., Jun. Fn. 20-* Dr. Cheyne Dr. Cheyne Fn. 30-* l’esprit du corps l’esprit de corps 43 (No. 530.†) (No. 530.*) 48 your enemies.’ your enemies.” 56 head.(No. head (No. 62 DIAL DIAL Fn. 55-* tools. tools.” Fn. 66-* pp. 3. 6. pp. 3, 6. 77 made wtih made with 82 And as now “And as now 85 vigilant attention vigilant attention. 94 eshallot eschalot 96 is delightful is delightful. 98 made (No. 185* made (No. 185 Fn. 91-* No 440 No. 440 Fn. 91-† No. 299. No. 299, Fn. 92-¶ acid milder acid milder. Fn. 93-§ Monsieur’s remarks Monsieur’s remarks, 104 eshalots, eschalots, 109 eshalot eschalot 114 table-spoonsful table-spoonfuls 118 Ham,(No. 14.) Ham,—(No. 14.) 118 Grimmed for table Trimmed for table 120 No. 2 of No. 361 No. 2 of No. 364 123 No. 67* No. 66* 126 quarter quarter. Fn. 123-* Ibid Ibid. Fn. 123-* No. 67* No. 66* 154 No. 521 and No. 91 No. 521 and No. 90 157 escaloped. escalloped. 173 (NO. 145) (No. 145) 179 beshamell bechamel 183 No. 67. No. 167. 191 note under No. 185* note under No. 185 Fn. 168-* same uality same quality 195 beef broth (No. 185*) beef broth (No. 185) 195 see No. 364* see No. 364 201 put in at put in it 204 into this soup. into this soup, 212 No. 5. No. 5.) 213 (No. 329.) (No. 239.) Fn. 193-† The Art of The Art of Fn. 219-* The footnote marker was missing from the footnote and was added. Fn. 223-† note under No. 185* note under No. 185 240 with the onions with the onions, 249 beef,(as beef, (as 257 NB. To hash N.B. To hash 257 minced Veal minced Veal. 258 White Sauce. White Sauce.— 262 to the rest” to the rest.” 263 (No 397) (No. 397) 275 p. 200 p. 200. 281 red, &c; red, &c.; 292 tea and tea- and 293 into a mug. into a mug, 295 bottled ale bottled ale. 298 Jelly.298-* Jelly.298-*— 299 2 1/2d. 2 1/2d. Fn. 278-* which is (which is 304 beef, &c; beef, &c.; 307 Mutton Broth, Mutton Broth,— 309 foot of page 266 foot of page 220 315 see Nos. 185* see Nos. 185 316 the cabbage.’ the cabbage.” 317 No. 67* No. 66* 320 wide, i e. wide, i. e. 321 (No. 518. (No. 518.) 325 beans, &c. beans, &c. 334 accompanied by it. accompanied by it, 341 Gipsies’ way. Gipsies’ way.— 347 for bakingare for baking are 353 Obs. on Health Obs. on Health Fn. 304-* note to No. 529 note to No. 529* Fn. 314-* mellow mellow. Fn. 338-† The night before “The night before 356 Do do. Do. do. (line below Roasted (No. 35).) 356 Broiled. (No. 521). Broiled (No. 521). 358 Wooodcock Woodcock 359 Feb. & Mar Feb. & Mar. (Broccoli line) 361 Cut Pastry Cut Pastry. 363 No. 455 (No. 455 373 No. 47 No. 47.) 380 (No. 69. (No. 69.) 411 private picking, private picking,” 414 fig 3 fig. 3 415 cutting up of of cutting up of 418 The rips may The ribs may 421 Under Barley, the second and third lines had missing text. It was filled in based on the recipe numbers and confirmed with another edition of the book. —— broth, —— ——, 422 (Ap. 119) (Ap. 119.) 423 538,* 539 538*, 539 423 tail filletted tail filleted 424 Obs. to 372 260 Obs. to 372 261 424 Eschalot sauce Eschalot sauce, 424 386 ib 386 ib. 425 Sept Heur s Sept Heures 425 note 24 note 23 426 Obs. to 372 260 Obs. to 372 261 427 note 92 note 91 427 (Ap. 121) (Ap. 121.) 427 &c.(Ap. 7.) &c. (Ap. 7.) 430 Spinnage, Spinage, 430 378 ib 378 ib. 430 377 ib 377 ib. 431 Birch s Birch’s The following words were inconsistently spelled and hyphenated: A-la-mode / Alamode back-bone / backbone baine-marie / bainmarie / bain-marie bay-leaf / bay leaf beef-steak / beefsteak bif-teck / bifteck blanc-mange / blancmange chef-d’œuvre / chef d’œuvre cod-fish / codfish craw-fish / crawfish Craw-fish / Crawfish fire-place / fireplace Espagnole / Espagnol Gourmandise / Gourmandize hair-sieve / hair sieve half-pence / halfpence half-penny / halfpenny horse-radish / horseradish i. e. / i. e. lemon-peel / lemon peel mean time / meantime Mem. / Mem. / Mem.— / Mem.— merry-thought / merrythought morels / morells / morelles N.B. / N. B. obs. / Obs. / obs. / Obs. (in-paragraph references) Obs. / Obs.— (beginning of paragraph) over-boiled / overboiled paste-board / pasteboard pepper-corns / peppercorns pyroligneous / pyro-ligneous re-dressed / redressed sauce-pan / saucepan sauce-pans / saucepans scallop / scollop scalloped / scolloped secundùm / secundum sir-loin / sirloin spare-rib / sparerib stew-pan / stewpan stew-pans / stewpans sweet-breads / sweetbreads two-pence / twopence under-side / underside wine-glass / wineglass Other inconsistencies: The position of punctuation relative to close parentheses is not consistent. In some cases, it is inside the parentheses (i.e. ;) or ,)) and in other cases it is outside the parentheses (i.e., ); or ),). This inconsistency has been maintained. The position of the * and . in recipe numbers with * is inconsistent. There is no fig. 5 in the section on carving. Other changes: The marketing tables for meat (pp. 355 and 356), poultry (pp. 357 and 358), and vegetables (pp. 358 and 359) were originally split between two pages because of their length. Each has been joined into a single table in this version of the book.
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