Oysters.
In a parenthesis, as it were—to pave the way to a different
method of presenting hors d'œuvres—I must here allude to the
excellent practice of commencing a dinner with oysters in their
shells, explaining as I do so, however, that oysters thus eaten
cannot be reckoned as hors d'œuvres although served at
the period when the latter are presented. The service, as far as I
can trace, is a purely English one—a little course in itself—
with its adjuncts forming a distinct item in the menu, not an
excuse to pass time while dinner is being dished up. But
unfortunately there are drawbacks connected with this
delicacy; it is very expensive, and during four months of
the year, when London entertaining is at its height, it is out
of season. This is perhaps the very time when appetites
become jaded, and some little tasty thing may be acceptable
to stimulate them.