CHAPTER III.
MAYONNAISE, VINAIGRETTES, &c.
The fashion of serving cold fish appears to be spreading, and most cooks can now send to table cold fish in one or two ways, though it must be confessed that mayonnaise, whether of salmon, lobster, or other fish, is usually the pièce de résistance on such occasions. Now a good many people who aver that they cannot touch either of the two first-named fish, denounce the unwholesomeness of fish mayonnaise on account of the richness both of the fish and of the sauce. As regards the fish, this is very probably a mistake, though I admit as much cannot be said for the sauce, especially if the dish has been prepared some time before serving it, the sauce having in consequence deteriorated to a painful extent. Mayonnaise sauce exposed to the air is very apt to become rank and strong, the oil being especially evident, in which condition it is not the most digestible condiment available, and a rich fish, such as salmon for instance, allowed to steep in this compound, naturally does not become more eupeptic. If these objectors would try their fish simply dressed with a cold foil and vinegar (French salad) dressing, I think they would very likely find that even lobster would agree fairly well; try the following, for instance: Flake the fish, up neatly (or if a lobster be used, cut it up