TOAST SANDWICHES.
1877. INGREDIENTS.—Thin cold toast, thin slices of bread-and-butter, pepper and salt to taste.
Mode.—Place a very thin piece of cold toast between 2 slices of thin bread-and-butter in the form of a sandwich, adding a seasoning of pepper and salt. This sandwich may be varied by adding a little pulled meat, or very fine slices of cold meat, to the toast, and in any of these forms will be found very tempting to the appetite of an invalid.
1878. Besides the recipes contained in this chapter, there are, in the previous chapters on cookery, many others suitable for invalids, which it would be useless to repeat here. Recipes for fish simply dressed, light soups, plain roast meat, well-dressed vegetables, poultry, simple puddings, jelly, stewed fruits, &c. &c., all of which dishes may be partaken of by invalids and convalescents, will be found in preceding chapters.
DINNERS AND DINING.
CHAPTER XL.
1879. Man, it has been said, is a dining animal. Creatures of the inferior races eat and drink; man only dines. It has also been said that he is a cooking animal; but some races eat food without cooking it. A Croat captain said to M. Brillat Savarin, "When, in campaign, we feel hungry, we knock over the first animal we find, cut off a steak, powder it with salt, put it under the saddle, gallop over it for half a mile, and then eat it." Huntsmen in Dauphiny, when out shooting, have been known to kill a bird, pluck it, salt and pepper it, and cook it by carrying it some time in their caps. It is equally true that some races of men do not dine any more than the tiger or the vulture. It is not a dinner at which sits the aboriginal Australian, who gnaws his bone half bare and then flings it behind to his squaw. And the native of Terra-del-Fuego does not dine when he gets his morsel of red clay. Dining is the privilege of civilization. The rank which a people occupy in the grand scale may be measured by their way of taking their meals, as well as by their way of treating their women. The nation which knows how to dine has learnt the leading lesson of progress. It implies both the will and the skill to reduce to order, and surround with idealisms and graces, the more material conditions of human existence; and wherever that will and that skill exist, life cannot be wholly ignoble.
1880. Dinner, being the grand solid meal of the day, is a matter of considerable importance; and a well-served table is a striking index of human, ingenuity and resource. "Their table," says Lord Byron, in describing a dinner-party given by Lord and Lady Amundevillo at Norman Abbey,—
"Their table was a board to tempt even ghosts To pass the Styx for more substantial feasts. I will not dwell upon ragouts or roasts, Albeit all human history attests That happiness for man—the hungry sinner!— Since Eve ate apples, much depends on dinner."
And then he goes on to observe upon the curious complexity of the results produced by human cleverness and application catering for the modifications which occur in civilized life, one of the simplest of the primal instincts:—
"The mind is lost in mighty contemplation Of intellect expended on two courses; And indigestion's grand multiplication Requires arithmetic beyond my forces. Who would suppose, from Adam's simple ration, That cookery could have call'd forth such resources, As form a science and a nomenclature From out the commonest demands of nature?"
And we may well say, Who, indeed, would suppose it? The gulf between the Croat, with a steak under his saddle, and Alexis Soyer getting up a great dinner at the Reform-Club, or even Thackeray's Mrs. Raymond Gray giving "a little dinner" to Mr. Snob (with one of those famous "roly-poly puddings" of hers),—what a gulf it is!
1881. That Adam's "ration," however, was "simple," is a matter on which we have contrary judgments given by the poets. When Raphael paid that memorable visit to Paradise,—which we are expressly told by Milton he did exactly at dinner-time,—Eve seems to have prepared "a little dinner" not wholly destitute of complexity, and to have added ice-creams and perfumes. Nothing can be clearer than the testimony of the poet on these points:—
"And Eve within, due at her home prepared For dinner savoury fruits, of taste to please True appetite, and not disrelish thirst Of nectarous draughts between…. …. With dispatchful looks in haste She turns, on hospitable thoughts intent, What choice to choose for delicacy best, What order so contrived as not to mix Tastes not well join'd, inelegant, but bring Taste after taste, upheld with kindliest change— * * * * * "She tempers dulcet creams…. …. then strews the ground With rose and odours."
It may be observed, in passing, that the poets, though they have more to say about wine than solid food, because the former more directly stimulates the intellect and the feelings, do not flinch from the subject of eating and drinking. There is infinite zest in the above passage from Milton, and even more in the famous description of a dainty supper, given by Keats in his "Eve of Saint Agnes." Could Queen Mab herself desire to sit down to anything nicer, both as to its appointments and serving, and as to its quality, than the collation served by Porphyro in the lady's bedroom while she slept?—
"There by the bedside, where the faded moon Made a dim silver twilight, soft he set A table, and, half-anguish'd, threw thereor A cloth of woven crimson, gold, and jet. * * * * * "While he, from forth the closet, brought a heap Of candied apple, quince, and plum, and gourd; With jellies smoother than the creamy curd, And lucent syrups tinct with cinnamon; Manna and dates, in argosy transferr'd From Fez; and spiced dainties, every one, From silken Samarcand to cedar'd Lebanon."
But Tennyson has ventured beyond dates, and quinces, and syrups, which may be thought easy to be brought in by a poet. In his idyl of "Audley Court" he gives a most appetizing description of a pasty at a pic-nic:—
"There, on a slope of orchard, Francis laid A damask napkin wrought with horse and hound; Brought out a dusky loaf that smelt of home, And, half cut down, a pasty costly made, Where quail and pigeon, lark and leveret, lay Like fossils of the rock, with golden yolks Imbedded and injellied."
We gladly quote passages like these, to show how eating and drinking may be surrounded with poetical associations, and how man, using his privilege to turn any and every repast into a "feast of reason," with a warm and plentiful "flow of soul," may really count it as not the least of his legitimate prides, that he is "a dining animal."
1882. It has been said, indeed, that great men, in general, are great diners. This, however, can scarcely be true of any great men but men of action; and, in that case, it would simply imply that persons of vigorous constitution, who work hard, eat heartily; for, of course, a life of action requires a vigorous constitution, even though there may be much illness, as in such cases as William III. and our brave General Napier. Of men of thought, it can scarcely be true that they eat so much, in a general way, though even they eat more than they are apt to suppose they do; for, as Mr. Lewes observes, "nerve-tissue is very expensive." Leaving great men of all kinds, however, to get their own dinners, let us, who are not great, look after ours. Dine we must, and we may as well dine elegantly as well as wholesomely.
1883. There are plenty of elegant dinners in modern days, and they were not wanting in ancient times. It is well known that the dinner-party, or symposium, was a not unimportant, and not unpoetical, feature in the life of the sociable, talkative, tasteful Greek. Douglas Jerrold said that such is the British humour for dining and giving of dinners, that if London were to be destroyed by an earthquake, the Londoners would meet at a public dinner to consider the subject. The Greeks, too, were great diners: their social and religious polity gave them many chances of being merry and making others merry on good eating and drinking. Any public or even domestic sacrifice to one of the gods, was sure to be followed by a dinner-party, the remains of the slaughtered "offering" being served up on the occasion as a pious pièce de résistance; and as the different gods, goddesses, and demigods, worshipped by the community in general, or by individuals, were very numerous indeed, and some very religious people never let a day pass without offering up something or other, the dinner-parties were countless. A birthday, too, was an excuse for a dinner; a birthday, that is, of any person long dead and buried, as well as of a living person, being a member of the family, or otherwise esteemed. Dinners were, of course, eaten on all occasions of public rejoicing. Then, among the young people, subscription dinners, very much after the manner of modern times, were always being got up; only that they would be eaten not at an hotel, but probably at the house of one of the heterae. A Greek dinner-party was a handsome, well-regulated affair. The guests came in elegantly dressed and crowned with flowers. A slave, approaching each person as he entered, took off his sandals and washed his feet. During the repast, the guests reclined on couches with pillows, among and along which were set small tables. After the solid meal came the "symposium" proper, a scene of music, merriment, and dancing, the two latter being supplied chiefly by young girls. There was a chairman, or symposiarch, appointed by the company to regulate the drinking; and it was his duty to mix the wine in the "mighty bowl." From this bowl the attendants ladled the liquor into goblets, and, with the goblets, went round and round the tables, filling the cups of the guests.
1884. The elegance with which a dinner is served is a matter which depends, of course, partly upon the means, but still more upon the taste of the master and mistress of the house. It may be observed, in general, that there should always be flowers on the table, and as they form no item of expense, there is no reason why they should not be employed every day.
1885. The variety in the dishes which furnish forth a modern dinner-table, does not necessarily imply anything unwholesome, or anything capricious. Food that is not well relished cannot be well digested; and the appetite of the over-worked man of business, or statesman, or of any dweller in towns, whose occupations are exciting and exhausting, is jaded, and requires stimulation. Men and women who are in rude health, and who have plenty of air and exercise, eat the simplest food with relish, and consequently digest it well; but those conditions are out of the reach of many men. They must suit their mode of dining to their mode of living, if they cannot choose the latter. It is in serving up food that is at once appetizing and wholesome that the skill of the modern housewife is severely tasked; and she has scarcely a more important duty to fulfil. It is, in fact, her particular vocation, in virtue of which she may be said to hold the health of the family, and of the friends of the family, in her hands from day to day. It has been said that "the destiny of nations depends on the manner in which they are fed;" and a great gastronomist exclaims, "Tell me what kind of food you eat, and I will tell you what kind of man you are." The same writer has some sentences of the same kind, which are rather hyperbolical, but worth quoting:—"The pleasures of the table belong to all ages, to all conditions, to all countries, and to all eras; they mingle with all other pleasures, and remain, at last, to console us for their departure. The discovery of a new dish confers more happiness upon humanity than the discovery of a new star."
1886. The gastronomist from whom we have already quoted, has some aphorisms and short directions in relation to dinner-parties, which are well deserving of notice:—"Let the number of your guests never exceed twelve, so that the conversation may be general. [Footnote: We have seen this varied by saying that the number should never exceed that of the Muses or fall below that of the Graces.] Let the temperature of the dining-room be about 68°. Let the dishes be few in number in the first course, but proportionally good. The order of food is from the most substantial to the lightest. The order of drinking wine is from the mildest to the most foamy and most perfumed. To invite a person to your house is to take charge of his happiness so long as he is beneath your roof. The mistress of the house should always be certain that the coffee be excellent; whilst the master should be answerable for the quality of his wines and liqueurs."
BILLS OF FARE.
JANUARY.
1887.—DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS.
First Course.
Mock Turtle Soup, removed by Cod's Head and Shoulders.
Stewed Eels. Vase of Red Mullet. Flowers.
Clear Oxtail Soup, removed by Fried Filleted Soles.
Entrées.
Riz de Veau aux Tomates.
Ragoût of Vase of Cotelettes de Pore Lobster. Flowers. à la Roberts.
Poulet à la Marengo.
Second Course.
Roast Turkey.
Pigeon Pie.
Boiled Turkey and Vase of Boiled Ham. Celery Sauce. Flowers.
Tongue, garnished.
Saddle of Mutton.
Third Course.
Charlotte Pheasants, Apricot Jam à la Parisienne. removed by Tartlets. Plum-pudding.
Jelly.
Cream. Vase of Cream. Flowers.
Jelly.
Snipes, removed by Pommes à la Condé.
We have given above the plan of placing the various dishes of the 1st Course, Entrées, 2nd Course, and 3rd Course. Following this will be found bills of fare for smaller parties; and it will be readily seen, by studying the above arrangement of dishes, how to place a less number for the more limited company. Several menus for dinners à la Russe, are also included in the present chapter.
1888.—DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (January).
FIRST COURSE. Carrot Soup à la Crécy. Oxtail Soup. Turbot and Lobster Sauce. Fried Smelts, with Dutch Sauce.
ENTREES. Mutton Cutlets, with Soubise Sauce. Sweetbreads. Oyster Patties. Fillets of Rabbits.
SECOND COURSE. Roast Turkey. Stewed Rump of Beef à la Jardinière. Boiled Ham, garnished with Brussels Sprouts. Boiled Chickens and Celery Sauce.
THIRD COURSE. Roast Hare. Teal. Eggs à la Neige. Vol-au-Vent of Preserved Fruit. 1 Jelly. 1 Cream. Potatoes à la Maître d'Hôtel. Grilled Mushrooms.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1889.—DINNER FOR 10 PERSONS (January).
FIRST COURSE. Soup à la Reine. Whitings au Gratin. Crimped Cod and Oyster Sauce.
ENTREES. Tendrons de Veau. Curried Fowl and Boiled Rice.
SECOND COURSE. Turkey, stuffed with Chestnuts, and Chestnut Sauce. Boiled Leg of Mutton, English Fashion, with Capers Sauce and Mashed Turnips.
THIRD COURSE. Woodcocks or Partridges. Widgeon. Charlotte à la Vanille. Cabinet Pudding. Orange Jelly. Blancmange. Artichoke Bottoms. Macaroni, with Parmesan Cheese.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1890.—DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (January).
FIRST COURSE. Mulligatawny Soup. Brill and Shrimp Sauce. Fried Whitings.
ENTREES. Fricasseed Chicken. Pork Cutlets, with Tomato Sauce.
SECOND COURSE. Haunch of Mutton. Boiled Turkey and Celery Sauce. Boiled Tongue, garnished with Brussels Sprouts.
THIRD COURSE. Roast Pheasants. Meringues à la Crême. Compôte of Apples. Orange Jelly. Cheesecakes. Soufflé of Rice.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1891.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (January).—I.
FIRST COURSE. Julienne Soup. Soles à la Normandie.
ENTREES. Sweetbreads, with Sauce Piquante. Mutton Cutlets, with Mashed Potatoes.
SECOND COURSE. Haunch of Venison. Boiled Fowls and Bacon, garnished with Brussels Sprouts.
THIRD COURSE. Plum-pudding. Custards in Glasses. Apple Tart. Fondue à la Brillat Savarin.
DESSERT.
1892.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (January).—II.
FIRST COURSE. Vermicelli Soup. Fried Slices of Codfish and Anchovy Sauce. John Dory.
ENTREES. Stewed Rump-steak à la Jardinière Rissoles. Oyster Patties.
SECOND COURSE. Leg of Mutton. Curried Rabbit and Boiled Rice.
THIRD COURSE. Partridges. Apple Fritters. Tartlets of Greengage Jam. Orange Jelly. Plum-pudding.
DESSERT.
1893.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (January).—III.
FIRST COURSE. Pea-soup. Baked Haddock. Soles à la Crême.
ENTREES. Mutton Cutlets and Tomato Sauce. Fricasseed Rabbit.
SECOND COURSE. Roast Pork and Apple Sauce. Breast of Veal, Rolled and Stuffed. Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE. Jugged Hare. Whipped Cream, Blancmange. Mince Pies. Cabinet Pudding.
1894.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (January).—IV.
FIRST COURSE. Palestine Soup. Fried Smelts. Stewed Eels.
ENTREES. Ragoût of Lobster. Broiled Mushrooms. Vol-au-Vent of Chicken.
SECOND COURSE. Sirloin of Beef. Boiled Fowls and Celery Sauce. Tongue, garnished with Brussels Sprouts.
THIRD COURSE. Wild Ducks. Charlotte aux Pommes. Cheesecakes. Transparent Jelly, inlaid with Brandy Cherries. Blancmange. Nesselrode Pudding.
PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR JANUARY.
1895. Sunday.—1, Boiled turbot and oyster sauce, potatoes. 2. Roast leg or griskin of pork, apple sauce, brocoli, potatoes. 3. Cabinet pudding, and damson tart made with preserved damsons.
1896. Monday.—1. The remains of turbot warmed in oyster sauce, potatoes. 2. Cold pork, stewed steak. 3. Open jam tart, which should have been made with the pieces of paste left from the damson tart; baked arrowroot pudding.
1897. Tuesday.—1. Boiled neck of mutton, carrots, mashed turnips, suet dumplings, and caper sauce: the broth should be served first, and a little rice or pearl barley should be boiled with it along with the meat. 2. Rolled jam pudding.
1898. Wednesday.—1. Roast rolled ribs of beef, greens, potatoes, and horseradish sauce. 2. Bread-and-butter pudding, cheesecakes.
1899. Thursday.—1. Vegetable soup (the bones from the ribs of beef should be boiled down with this soup), cold beef, mashed potatoes. 2. Pheasants, gravy, bread sauce. 3. Macaroni.
1900. Friday.—1. Fried whitings or soles. 2. Boiled rabbit and onion sauce, minced beef, potatoes. 3. Currant dumplings.
1901. Saturday.—1. Rump-steak pudding or pie, greens, and potatoes. 2. Baked custard pudding and stewed apples.
* * * * *
1902. Sunday.—1. Codfish and oyster sauce, potatoes. 2. Joint of roast mutton, either leg, haunch, or saddle; brocoli and potatoes, red-currant jelly. 3. Apple tart and custards, cheese.
1903. Monday.—1. The remains of codfish picked from the bone, and warmed through in the oyster sauce; if there is no sauce left, order a few oysters and make a little fresh; and do not let the fish boil, or it will be watery. 2. Curried rabbit, with boiled rice served separately, cold mutton, mashed potatoes. 3. Somersetshire dumplings with wine sauce.
1904. Tuesday.—1. Boiled fowls, parsley-and-butter; bacon garnished with Brussels sprouts, minced or hashed mutton. 2. Baroness pudding.
1905. Wednesday.—1. The remains of the fowls cut up into joints and fricasseed; joint of roast pork and apple sauce, and, if liked, sage-and-onion, served on a dish by itself; turnips and potatoes. 2. Lemon pudding, either baked or boiled.
1906. Thursday.—1. Cold pork and jugged hare, red-currant jelly, mashed potatoes. 2. Apple pudding.
1907. Friday.—1. Boiled beef, either the aitchbone or the silver side of the round; carrots, turnips, suet dumplings, and potatoes: if there is a marrowbone, serve the marrow on toast at the same time. 2. Rice snowballs.
1908. Saturday.—1. Pea-soup made from liquor in which beef was boiled; cold beef, mashed potatoes. 2. Baked batter fruit pudding.
FEBRUARY.
1909.—DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS. First Course.
Hare Soup, removed by Turbot and Oyster Sauce.
Fried Eels. Vase of Fried Whitings. Flowers.
Oyster Soup, removed by Crimped Cod à la Maître d'Hôtel.
Entrées.
Lark Pudding.
Lobster Patties. Vase of Filets de Perdrix. Flowers.
Fricasseed Chicken.
Second Course.
Braised Capon. Boiled Ham, garnished.
Roast Fowls, garnished Vase of Boiled Fowls and with Water-cresses. Flowers. White Sauce.
Pâté Chaud. Haunch of Mutton.
Third Course
Ducklings, removed by Ice Pudding.
Meringues. Coffee Cream. Cheesecakes.
Orange Jelly. Vase of Clear Jelly. Flowers.
Victoria Blancmange. Gâteau de Sandwiches. Pommes.
Partridges, removed by Cabinet Pudding.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1910.—DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (February).
FIRST COURSE. Soup a la Reine. Clear Gravy Soup. Brill and Lobster Sauce. Fried Smelts.
ENTREES. Lobster Rissoles. Beef Palates. Pork Cutlets à la Soubise. Grilled Mushrooms.
SECOND COURSE. Braised Turkey. Haunch of Mutton. Boiled Capon and Oysters. Tongue, garnished with tufts of Brocoli. Vegetables and Salads.
THIRD COURSE. Wild Ducks. Plovers. Orange Jelly. Clear Jelly. Charlotte Russe. Nesselrode Pudding. Gâteau de Riz. Sea-kale. Maids of Honour.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1911.—DINNER FOR 10 PERSONS (February).
FIRST COURSE. Palestine Soup. John Dory, with Dutch Sauce. Red Mullet, with Sauce Génoise.
ENTREES. Sweetbread Cutlets, with Poivrade Sauce. Fowl au Béchamel.
SECOND COURSE. Roast Saddle of Mutton. Boiled Capon and Oysters. Boiled Tongue, garnished with Brussels Sprouts.
THIRD COURSE. Guinea-Fowls. Ducklings. Pain de Rhubarb. Orange Jelly. Strawberry Cream. Cheesecakes. Almond Pudding. Fig Pudding.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1912.—DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (February).
FIRST COURSE. Mock Turtle Soup. Fillets of Turbot a la Crême. Fried Filleted Soles and Anchovy Sauce.
ENTREES. Larded Fillets of Rabbits. Tendrons de Veau with Purée of Tomatoes.
SECOND COURSE. Stewed Rump of Beef à la Jardinière. Roast Fowls. Boiled Ham.
THIRD COURSE. Roast Pigeons or Larks. Rhubarb Tartlets. Meringues. Clear Jelly. Cream. Ice Pudding. Soufflé.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1913.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (February)—I.
FIRST COURSE. Rice Soup. Red Mullet, with Génoise Sauce. Fried Smelts.
ENTREES. Fowl Pudding. Sweetbreads.
SECOND COURSE. Roast Turkey and Sausages. Boiled Leg of Pork. Pease Pudding.
THIRD COURSE. Lemon Jelly. Charlotte à la Vanille. Maids of Honour. Plum-pudding, removed by Ice Pudding.
DESSERT.
1914.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (February).—II.
FIRST COURSE. Spring Soup. Boiled Turbot and Lobster Sauce.
ENTREES. Fricasseed Rabbit. Oyster Patties.
SECOND COURSE. Boiled Round of Beef and Marrow-bones. Roast Fowls, garnished with Water-cresses and rolled Bacon. Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE. Marrow Pudding. Cheesecakes. Tartlets of Greengage Jam. Lemon Cream. Rhubarb Tart.
DESSERT.
1915.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (February).—III.
FIRST COURSE. Vermicelli Soup. Fried Whitings. Stewed Eels.
ENTREES. Poulet à la Marengo. Breast of Veal stuffed and rolled.
SECOND COURSE. Roast Leg of Pork and Apple Sauce. Boiled Capon and Oysters. Tongue, garnished with tufts of Brocoli.
THIRD COURSE. Wild Ducks. Lobster Salad. Charlotte aux Pommes. Pain de Rhubarb. Vanilla Cream. Orange Jelly.
DESSERT.
1916.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (February).—IV.
FIRST COURSE. Ox-tail Soup. Cod à la Crême. Fried Soles.
ENTREES. Lark Pudding. Fowl Scollops.
SECOND COURSE. Roast Leg of Mutton. Boiled Turkey and Celery Sauce. Pigeon Pie. Small Ham, boiled and garnished. Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE. Game, when liked. Tartlets of Raspberry Jam. Vol-au-Vent of Rhubarb. Swiss Cream. Cabinet Pudding. Brocoli and Sea-kale.
DESSERT.
PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR FEBRUARY.
1917. Sunday.—1. Ox-tail soup. 2 Roast beef, Yorkshire pudding, brocoli, and potatoes. 3. Plum-pudding, apple tart. Cheese.
1918. Monday.—1. Fried soles, plain melted butter, and potatoes. 2. Cold roast beef, mashed potatoes. 3. The remains of plum-pudding cut in slices, warmed, and served with sifted sugar sprinkled over it. Cheese.
1919. Tuesday.—1. The remains of ox-tail soup from Sunday. 2. Pork cutlets with tomato sauce; hashed beef. 3. Boiled jam pudding. Cheese.
1920. Wednesday.—1. Boiled haddock and plain melted butter. 2. Rump-steak pudding, potatoes, greens. 3. Arrowroot, blancmange, garnished with jam.
1921. Thursday.—1. Boiled leg of pork, greens, potatoes, pease pudding. 2. Apple fritters, sweet macaroni.
1922. Friday.—1. Pea-soup made with liquor that the pork was boiled in. 2. Cold pork, mashed potatoes. 3. Baked rice pudding.
1923. Saturday.—1. Broiled herrings and mustard sauce. 2. Haricot mutton. 3. Macaroni, either served as a sweet pudding or with cheese.
* * * * *
1924. Sunday.—1. Carrot soup. 2. Boiled leg of mutton and caper sauce, mashed turnips, roast fowls, and bacon. 3. Damson tart made with bottled fruit, ratafia pudding.
1925. Monday.—1. The remainder of fowl curried and served with rice; rump-steaks and oyster sauce, cold mutton. 2. Rolled jam pudding.
1926. Tuesday.—1. Vegetable soup made with liquor that the mutton was boiled in on Sunday. 2. Roast sirloin of beef, Yorkshire pudding, brocoli, and potatoes. 3. Cheese.
1927. Wednesday.—1. Fried soles, melted butter. 2. Cold beef and mashed potatoes: if there is any cold boiled mutton left, cut it into neat slices and warm it in a little caper sauce. 3. Apple tart.
1928. Thursday.—1. Boiled rabbit and onion sauce, stewed beef and vegetables, made with the remains of cold beef and bones. 2. Macaroni.
1929. Friday.—1. Roast leg of pork, sage and onions and apple sauce; greens and potatoes. 2. Spinach and poached eggs instead of pudding. Cheese and water-cresses.
1930. Saturday.—1. Rump-steak-and-kidney pudding, cold pork and mashed potatoes. 2. Baked rice pudding.
MARCH.
1931.—DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS.
First Course.
Turtle or Mock Turtle Soup, removed by Salmon and dressed Cucumber.
Red Mullet. Vase of Filets of Whitings. Flowers.
Spring Soup, removed by Boiled Turbot and Lobster Sauce.
Entrées
Fricasseed Chicken.
Vol-au-Vent. Vase of Compôte of Pigeons. Flowers.
Larded Sweetbreads.
Second Course.
Fore-quarter of Lamb.
Braised Capon.
Boiled Tongue, Vase of Ham. garnished. Flowers.
Roast Fowls.
Rump of Beef à la Jardinière.
Third Course.
Guinea-Fowls, larded, removed by Cabinet Pudding.
Apricot Wine Jelly. Rhubarb Tartlets. Tart.
Custards. Vase of Jelly in Flowers. glasses.
Italian Cream.
Damson Tart. Ducklings, Cheesecakes. removed by Nesselrode Pudding.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1932.—DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (March).
FIRST COURSE. White Soup. Clear Gravy Soup. Boiled Salmon, Shrimp Sauce, and dressed Cucumber. Baked Mullets in paper cases.
ENTREES. Filet de Boeuf and Spanish Sauce. Larded Sweetbreads. Rissoles. Chicken Patties.
SECOND COURSE. Roast Fillet of Veal and Béchamel Sauce. Boiled Leg of Lamb. Roast Fowls, garnished with Water-cresses. Boiled Ham, garnished with Carrots and mashed Turnips. Vegetables—Sea-kale, Spinach, or Brocoli.
THIRD COURSE. Two Ducklings. Guinea-Fowl, larded. Orange Jelly. Charlotte Russe. Coffee Cream. Ice Pudding. Macaroni with Parmesan Cheese. Spinach, garnished with Croutons.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1933.—DINNER FOR 10 PERSONS (March).
FIRST COURSE. Macaroni Soup. Boiled Turbot and Lobster Sauce. Salmon Cutlets.
ENTREES. Compôte of Pigeons. Mutton Cutlets and Tomato Sauce.
SECOND COURSE. Roast Lamb. Boiled Half Calf's Head, Tongue, and Brains. Boiled Bacon-cheek, garnished with spoonfuls of Spinach. Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE. Ducklings. Plum-pudding. Ginger Cream. Trifle. Rhubarb Tart. Cheesecakes. Fondues, in cases.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1934.—DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (March).
FIRST COURSE. Calf's-Head Soup. Brill and Shrimp Sauce. Broiled Mackerel à la Maître d'Hôtel.
ENTREES. Lobster Cutlets. Calf's Liver and Bacon, aux fines herbes.
SECOND COURSE. Roast Loin of Veal. Two Boiled Fowls à la Béchamel. Boiled Knuckle of Ham. Vegetables—Spinach or Brocoli.
THIRD COURSE. Wild Ducks. Apple Custards. Blancmange. Lemon Jelly. Jam Sandwiches. Ice Pudding. Potatoes à la Maître d'Hôtel.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1935.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (March).—I.
FIRST COURSE. Vermicelli Soup. Soles à la Crême.
ENTREES. Veal Cutlets. Small Vols-au-Vent.
SECOND COURSE. Small Saddle of Mutton. Half Calf's Head. Boiled Bacon-cheek, garnished with Brussels Sprouts.
THIRD COURSE. Cabinet Pudding. Orange Jelly. Custards, in glasses. Rhubarb Tart. Lobster Salad.
DESSERT.
1936.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (March).—II.
FIRST COURSE. Julienne Soup. Baked Mullets.
ENTREES. Chicken Cutlets. Oyster Patties.
SECOND COURSE. Roast Lamb and Mint Sauce. Boiled Leg of Pork. Pease Pudding. Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE. Ducklings. Swiss Cream. Lemon Jelly. Cheesecakes. Rhubarb Tart. Macaroni.
Dessert.
1937.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (March).—III.
FIRST COURSE. Oyster Soup. Boiled Salmon and dressed Cucumber.
ENTREES. Rissoles. Fricasseed Chicken.
SECOND COURSE. Boiled Leg of Mutton, Caper Sauce. Roast Fowls, garnished with Water-cresses. Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE. Charlotte aux Pommes. Orange Jelly. Lemon Cream. Soufflé of Arrowroot. Sea-kale.
DESSERT.
1938.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (March).—IV.
FIRST COURSE. Ox-tail Soup. Boiled Mackerel.
ENTREES. Stewed Mutton Kidneys. Minced Veal and Oysters.
SECOND COURSE. Stewed Shoulder of Veal. Roast Ribs of Beef and Horseradish Sauce. Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE. Ducklings. Tartlets of Strawberry Jam. Cheesecakes. Gateau de Riz. Carrot Pudding. Sea-kale.
DESSERT.
PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR MARCH.
1939. Sunday.—1. Boiled 1/2 calf's head, pickled pork, the tongue on a small dish with the brains round it; mutton cutlets and mashed potatoes. 2. Plum tart made with bottled fruit, baked custard pudding, Baroness pudding.
1940. Monday.—1. Roast shoulder of mutton and onion sauce, brocoli, baked potatoes. 2. Slices of Baroness pudding warmed, and served with sugar sprinkled over. Cheesecakes.
1941. Tuesday.—1. Mock turtle soup, made with liquor that calf's head was boiled in, and the pieces of head. 2. Hashed mutton, rump-steaks and oyster sauce. 3. Boiled plum-pudding.
1942. Wednesday.—1. Fried whitings, melted butter, potatoes. 2. Boiled beef, suet dumplings, carrots, potatoes, marrow-bones. 3. Arrowroot blancmange, and stewed rhubarb.
1943. Thursday.—1. Pea-soup made from liquor that beef was boiled in. 2. Stewed rump-steak, cold beef, mashed potatoes. 3. Rolled jam pudding.
1944. Friday.—1. Fried soles, melted butter, potatoes. 2. Roast loin of mutton, brocoli, potatoes, bubble-and-squeak. 3. Rice pudding.
1945. Saturday.—1.—Rump-steak pie, haricot mutton made with remains of cold loin. 2. Pancakes, ratafia pudding.
* * * * *
1946. Sunday.—1. Roast fillet of veal, boiled ham, spinach and potatoes. 2. Rhubarb tart, custards in glasses, bread-and-butter pudding.
1947. Monday.—1. Baked soles, potatoes. 2. Minced veal and rump-steak pie. 3. Somersetshire dumplings with the remains of custards poured round them; marmalade tartlets.
1948. Tuesday.—1. Gravy soup. 2. Boiled leg of mutton, mashed turnips, suet dumplings, caper sauce, potatoes, veal rissoles made with remains of fillet of veal. 3. Cheese.
1949. Wednesday.—1. Stewed mullets. 2. Roast fowls, bacon, gravy, and bread sauce, mutton pudding, made with a few slices of the cold meat and the addition of two kidneys. 3. Baked lemon pudding.
1950. Thursday.—1. Vegetable soup made with liquor that the mutton was boiled in, and mixed with the remains of gravy soup. 2. Roast ribs of beef, Yorkshire pudding, horseradish sauce, brocoli and potatoes. 3. Apple pudding or macaroni.
1951. Friday.—1. Stewed eels, pork cutlets and tomato sauce. 2. Cold beef, mashed potatoes. 3. Plum tart made with bottled fruit.
1952. Saturday.—1. Rump-steak-and-kidney pudding, broiled beef-bones, greens and potatoes. 2. Jam tartlets made with pieces of paste from plum tart, baked custard pudding.
APRIL.
1953.—DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS.
First Course.
Spring Soup, removed by Salmon and Lobster Sauce.
Fillet of Mackerel. Vase of Fried Smelts. Flowers.
Soles a la Crême.
Entrées.
Lamb Cutlets and Asparagus Peas.
Curried Lobster. Vase of Oyster Patties. Flowers.
Grenadines de Veau.
Second Course.
Roast Ribs of Lamb.
Larded Capon.
Stewed Beef A la Vase of Boiled Ham. Jardinière. Flowers.
Spring Chickens.
Braised Turkey.
Third Course.
Ducklings, removed by Cabinet Pudding.
Clear Jelly. Charlotte a la Parisienne. Orange Jelly.
Raspberry Jam Turtles. Vase of Cheese-Cakes. Victoria Sandwiches. Flowers. Rhubarb Tart.
Raspberry Cream.
Nesselrode Pudding.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1954.—DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (April).
FIRST COURSE. Soup à la Reine. Julienne Soup. Turbot and Lobster Sauce. Slices of Salmon a la Genévése.
ENTREES. Croquettes of Leveret. Fricandeau de Veau. Vol-au-Vent. Stewed Mushrooms.
SECOND COURSE. Fore-quarter of Lamb. Saddle of Mutton. Boiled Chickens and Asparagus Peas. Boiled Tongue garnished with Tufts of Brocoli. Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE. Ducklings. Larded Guinea-Fowls. Charlotte a la Parisienne. Orange Jelly. Meringues. Ratafia Ice Pudding. Lobster Salad. Sea-kale.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1955.—DINNER FOR 10 PERSONS (April).
FIRST COURSE Gravy Soup. Salmon and Dressed Cucumber. Shrimp Sauce. Fillets of Whitings.
ENTREES. Lobster Cutlets. Chicken Patties.
SECOND COURSE. Roast Fillet of Veal. Boiled Leg of Lamb. Ham, garnished with Brocoli. Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE. Ducklings. Compôte of Rhubarb. Custards. Vanilla Cream. Orange Jelly. Cabinet Pudding. Ice Pudding.
DESSERT.
1956.—DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (April).
FIRST COURSE. Spring Soup. Slices of Salmon and Caper Sauce. Fried Filleted Soles.
ENTREES. Chicken Vol-au-Vent. Mutton Cutlets and Tomato Sauce.
SECOND COURSE. Roast Loin of Veal. Boiled Fowls à la Béchamel. Tongue. Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE. Guinea-Fowl. Sea-kale. Artichoke Bottoms. Cabinet Pudding. Blancmange. Apricot Tartlets. Rice Fritters. Macaroni and Parmesan Cheese.
DESSERT.
1957.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (April).
FIRST COURSE. Tapioca Soup. Boiled Salmon and Lobster Sauce.
ENTREES. Sweetbreads. Oyster Patties.
SECOND COURSE. Haunch of Mutton. Boiled Capon and White Sauce. Tongue. Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE. Soufflé of Rice. Lemon Cream. Charlotte & la Parisienne. Rhubarb Tart.
DESSERT.
1958.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (April).—II.
FIRST COURSE. Julienne Soup. Fried Whitings. Red Mullet.
ENTREES. Lamb Cutlets and Cucumbers. Rissoles.
SECOND COURSE. Roast Ribs of Beef. Neck of Veal à la Béchamel. Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE. Ducklings. Lemon Pudding. Rhubarb Tart. Custards. Cheesecakes.
DESSERT.
1959.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (April).—III.
FIRST COURSE. Vermicelli Soup. Brill and Shrimp Sauce.
ENTREES. Fricandeau of Veal. Lobster Cutlets.
SECOND COURSE. Roast Fore-quarter of Lamb. Boiled Chickens. Tongue. Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE. Goslings.
Sea-kale. Plum-pudding. Whipped Cream. Compôte of Rhubarb. Cheesecakes.
DESSERT.
1960.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (April).—IV.
FIRST COURSE. Ox-tail Soup. Crimped Salmon.
ENTREES. Croquettes of Chicken. Mutton Cutlets and Soubise Sauce.
SECOND COURSE. Roast Fillet of Veal. Boiled Bacon-cheek garnished with Sprouts. Boiled Capon. Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE. Sea-kale. Lobster Salad. Cabinet Pudding. Ginger Cream. Raspberry Jam Tartlets. Rhubarb Tart. Macaroni.
DESSERT.
PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR APRIL.
1961. Sunday.—1. Clear gravy soup. 2. Roast haunch of mutton, sea-kale, potatoes. 3. Rhubarb tart, custards in glasses.
1962. Monday.—1. Crimped skate and caper sauce. 2. Boiled knuckle of veal and rice, cold mutton, mashed potatoes. 3. Baked plum-pudding.
1963. Tuesday.—1. Vegetable soup. 2. Toad-in-the-hole, made from remains of cold mutton. 3. Stewed rhubarb and baked custard pudding.
1964. Wednesday.—1. Fried soles, anchovy sauce. 2. Boiled beef, carrots, suet dumplings. 3. Lemon pudding.
1965. Thursday.—1. Pea-soup made with liquor that beef was boiled in. 2. Cold beef, mashed potatoes, mutton cutlets and tomato sauce. 3. Macaroni.
1966. Friday.—1. Bubble-and-squeak, made with remains of cold beef. Roast shoulder of veal stuffed, spinach, potatoes. 2. Boiled batter pudding and sweet sauce.
1967. Saturday.—1. Stewed veal with vegetables, made from the remains of the shoulder. Broiled rump-steaks and oyster sauce. 2. Yeast-dumplings.
* * * * *
1968. Sunday.—1. Boiled salmon and dressed cucumber, anchovy sauce 2. Roast fore-quarter of lamb, spinach, potatoes, mint sauce. 2. Rhubarb tart, cheesecakes.
1969. Monday.—1. Curried salmon, made with remains of salmon, dish of boiled rice. 2. Cold lamb, Rump-steak-and-kidney pudding, potatoes. 3. Spinach and poached eggs.
1970. Tuesday.—1. Scotch mutton broth with pearl barley. 2. Boiled neck of mutton, caper sauce, suet dumplings, carrots. 3. Baked rice-pudding.
1971. Wednesday.—1. Boiled mackerel and melted butter or fennel sauce, potatoes. 2. Roast fillet of veal, bacon, and greens. 3. Fig pudding.
1972. Thursday.—1. Flemish soup. 2. Roast loin of mutton, brocoli, potatoes; veal rolls made from remains of cold veal. 3. Boiled rhubarb pudding.
1973. Friday.—1. Irish stew or haricot, made from cold mutton, minced veal. 2. Half-pay pudding.
1974. Saturday.—1. Rump-steak pie, broiled mutton-chops. 2. Baked arrowroot pudding.
MAY.
1975.—DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS.
First Course.
Asparagus Soup, removed by Salmon and Lobster Sauce.
Fried Filleted Vase of Fillets of Mackerel, Soles Flowers. à la Maître d'Hôtel.
Oxtail Soup, removed by Brill & Shrimp Sauce.
Entrées.
Lamb Cutlets and Cucumbers.
Lobster Pudding. Vase of Curried Fowl. Flowers.
Veal Ragoût.
Second Course.
Saddle of Lamb.
Raised Pie.
Roast Fowls. Vase of Boiled Capon Flowers. and White Sauce.
Braised Ham.
Roast Veal.
Third Course.
Almond Goslings, Lobster Salad. Cheesecake removed by College Puddings.
Noyeau Jelly.
Italian Vase of Charlotte à la Cream. Flowers. Parisienne.
Inlaid Jelly.
Plovers' Ducklings, Eggs. removed by Tartlets. Nesselrode Pudding.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1976.—DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (May).
FIRST COURSE. White Soup. Asparagus Soup. Salmon Cutlets. Boiled Turbot and Lobster Sauce.
ENTREES. Chicken Vol-au-Vent. Lamb Cutlets and Cucumbers. Fricandeau of Veal. Stewed Mushrooms.
SECOND COURSE. Roast Lamb. Haunch of Mutton. Boiled and Roast Fowls. Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE. Ducklings. Goslings. Charlotte Russe. Vanilla Cream. Gooseberry Tart. Custards. Cheesecakes. Cabinet Pudding and Iced Pudding.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1977.—DINNER FOR 10 PERSONS (May).
FIRST COURSE. Spring Soup. Salmon à la Genévése. Red Mullet.
ENTREES. Chicken Vol-au-Vent. Calf's Liver and Bacon aux Fines Herbes.
SECOND COURSE. Saddle of Mutton. Half Calf's Head, Tongue, and Brains. Braised Ham. Asparagus.
THIRD COURSE. Roast Pigeons. Ducklings. Sponge-cake Pudding. Charlotte à la Vanille. Gooseberry Tart. Cream. Cheesecakes. Apricot-jam Tart.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1978.—DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (May).
FIRST COURSE. Julienne Soup. Brill and Lobster Sauce. Fried Fillets of Mackerel.
ENTREES Lamb Cutlets and Cucumbers. Lobster Patties.
SECOND COURSE. Roast Fillet of Veal. Boiled Leg of Lamb. Asparagus.
THIRD COURSE. Ducklings. Gooseberry Tart. Custards. Fancy Pastry. Soufflé.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1979.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (May).—I.
FIRST COURSE. Vermicelli Soup. Boiled Salmon and Anchovy Sauce.
ENTREES. Fillets of Beef and Tomato Sauce. Sweetbreads.
SECOND COURSE. Roast Lamb. Boiled Capon. Asparagus.
THIRD COURSE. Ducklings. Cabinet Pudding. Compôte of Gooseberries. Custards in Glasses. Blancmange. Lemon Tartlets. Fondue.
DESSERT.
1980.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (May).—II.
FIRST COURSE. Macaroni Soup. Boiled Mackerel à la Maitre d'Hôtel. Fried Smelts.
ENTREES. Scollops of Fowl. Lobster Pudding.
SECOND COURSE. Boiled Leg of Lamb and Spinach. Roast Sirloin of Beef and Horseradish Sauce. Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE. Roast Leveret. Salad. Soufflé of Rice. Ramekins. Strawberry-jam Tartlets. Orange Jelly.
DESSERT.
1981.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (May).—III.
FIRST COURSE. Julienne Soup. Trout with Dutch Sauce. Salmon Cutlets.
ENTREES. Lamb Cutlets and Mushrooms. Vol-au-Vent of Chicken.
SECOND COURSE. Roast Lamb. Calf's Head à la Tortue. Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE. Spring Chickens. Iced Pudding. Vanilla Cream. Clear Jelly. Tartlets. Cheesecakes.
DESSERT.
1982.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (May).—IV.
FIRST COURSE. Soup à la Reine. Crimped Trout and Lobster Sauce. Baked Whitings aux Fines Herbes.
ENTREES. Braised Mutton Cutlets and Cucumbers. Stewed Pigeons.
SECOND COURSE. Roast Fillet of Veal. Bacon-cheek and Greens. Fillet of Beef à la Jardinière.
THIRD COURSE. Ducklings. Soufflé à la Vanille. Compôte of Oranges. Meringues. Gooseberry Tart. Fondue.
DESSERT.
PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR MAY.
1983. Sunday.—1. Vegetable soup. 2. Saddle of mutton, asparagus and potatoes. 3. Gooseberry tart, custards.
1984. Monday.—1. Fried whitings, anchovy sauce. 2. Cold mutton, mashed potatoes, stewed veal. 3. Fig pudding.
1985. Tuesday.—1. Haricot mutton, made from remains of cold mutton, rump-steak pie. 2. Macaroni.
1986. Wednesday.—1. Roast loin of veal and spinach, boiled bacon, mutton cutlets and tomato sauce. 2. Gooseberry pudding and cream.
1987. Thursday.—1. Spring soup. 2. Roast leg of lamb, mint sauce, spinach, curried veal and rice. 3. Lemon pudding.
1988. Friday.—1. Boiled mackerel and parsley-and-butter. 2. Stewed rump-steak, cold lamb and salad. 3. Baked gooseberry pudding.
1989. Saturday.—1. Vermicelli. 2. Rump-steak pudding, lamb cutlets, and cucumbers. 3. Macaroni.
* * * * *
1990. Sunday.—1. Boiled salmon and lobster or caper sauce. 2. Roast lamb, mint sauce, asparagus, potatoes. 3. Plum-pudding, gooseberry tart.
1991. Monday.—1. Salmon warmed in remains of lobster sauce and garnished with croûtons. 2. Stewed knuckle of veal and rice, cold lamb and dressed cucumber. 3. Slices of pudding warmed, and served with sugar sprinkled over. Baked rice pudding.
1992. Tuesday.—1. Roast ribs of beef, horseradish sauce, Yorkshire pudding, spinach and potatoes. 2. Boiled lemon pudding.
1993. Wednesday.—1. Fried soles, melted butter. 2. Cold beef and dressed cucumber or salad, veal cutlets and bacon. 3. Baked plum-pudding.
1994. Thursday.—1. Spring soup. 2. Calf's liver and bacon, broiled beef-bones, spinach and potatoes. 3. Gooseberry tart.
1995. Friday.—1. Roast shoulder of mutton, baked potatoes, onion sauce, spinach. 2. Currant dumplings.
1996. Saturday.—1. Broiled mackerel, fennel sauce or plain melted butter. 2. Rump-steak pie, hashed mutton, vegetables. 3. Baked arrowroot pudding.
JUNE.
1997.—DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS.
First Course.
Asparagus Soup, removed by Crimped Salmon.
Fillets of Garnets. Vase of Soles aux fines herbes. Flowers.
Vermicelli Soup, removed by Whitebait.
Entrées.
Lamb Cutlets and Peas.
Lobster Patties. Vase of Tendrons de Veau Flowers. à la Jardinière.
Larded Sweetbreads.
Second Course.
Saddle of Lamb.
Tongue.
Roast Spring Vase of Boiled Capon. Chickens. Flowers.
Ham.
Boiled Calf's Head.
Third Course.
Prawns. Leveret, Tartlets. removed by Ice Pudding.
Wine Jelly.
Vol-au-Vent of Straw- Vase of Custards in berries and Cream. Flowers. glasses.
Blancmange.
Goslings, removed by Cheesecake Fondues, in cases. Plover's Eggs.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1998.—DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (June).
FIRST COURSE. Green-Pea Soup. Rice Soup. Salmon and Lobster Sauce. Trout à la Genévése. Whitebait.
ENTREES. Lamb Cutlets and Cucumbers. Fricasseed Chicken. Lobster Rissoles. Stewed Veal and Peas.
SECOND COURSE. Roast Quarter of Lamb and Spinach. Filet de Boeuf à la Jardinière. Boiled Fowls. Braised Shoulder of Lamb. Tongue. Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE. Goslings. Ducklings. Nesselrode Pudding. Charlotte à la Parisienne. Gooseberry Tartlets. Strawberry Cream. Raspberry-and-Currant Tart. Custards.
DESSERT AND ICES.
1999.—DINNER FOR 10 PERSONS (June).
FIRST COURSE. Julienne Soup. Salmon Trout and Parsley-and-Butter. Red Mullet.
ENTREES. Stewed Breast of Veal and Peas. Mutton Cutlets à la Maintenon.
SECOND COURSE. Roast Fillet of Veal. Boiled Leg of Lamb, garnished with young Carrots. Boiled Bacon-cheek. Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE. Roast Ducks. Leveret. Gooseberry Tart. Strawberry Cream. Strawberry Tartlets, Meringues. Cabinet Pudding. Iced Pudding.
DESSERT AND ICES.
2000.—DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (June).
FIRST COURSE. Vermicelli Soup. Trout à la Genévése Salmon Cutlets.
ENTREES. Lamb Cutlets and Peas. Fricasseed Chicken.
SECOND COURSE. Roast Ribs of Beef. Half Calf's Head, Tongue, and Brains. Boiled Ham. Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE. Roast Ducks. Compôte of Gooseberries. Strawberry Jelly. Pastry. Iced Pudding. Cauliflower with Cream Sauce.
DESSERT AND ICES.
2001.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (June).—I.
FIRST COURSE. Spring Soup. Boiled Salmon and Lobster Sauce.
ENTREES. Veal Cutlets and Endive. Ragoût of Duck and Green Peas.
SECOND COURSE. Roast Loin of Veal. Boiled Leg of Lamb and White Sauce. Tongue, garnished. Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE. Strawberry Cream. Gooseberry Tartlets. Almond Pudding. Lobster Salad.
DESSERT.
2002.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (JUNE).—II.
FIRST COURSE. Calf's-Head Soup. Mackerel à la Maître d'Hôtel. Whitebait.
ENTREES. Chicken Cutlets. Curried Lobster.
SECOND COURSE. Fore-quarter of Lamb and Salad. Stewed Beef à la Jardinière. Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE. Goslings. Green-Currant Tart. Custards, in glasses. Strawberry Blancmange. Soufflé of Rice.
DESSERT.
2003.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (JUNE).—III.
FIRST COURSE. Green-Pea Soup. Baked Soles aux fines herbes. Stewed Trout.
ENTREES. Calf's Liver and Bacon. Rissoles.
SECOND COURSE. Roast Saddle of Lamb and Salad. Calf's Head à la Tortue. Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE. Roast Ducks. Vol-au-Vent of Strawberries and Cream. Strawberry Tartlets. Lemon Blancmange. Baked Gooseberry Pudding.
DESSERT.
2004.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (JUNE).—IV.
FIRST COURSE. Spinach Soup. Soles à la Crême. Red Mullet.
ENTREES. Roast Fillet of Veal. Braised Ham and Spinach.
SECOND COURSE. Boiled Fowls and White Sauce. Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE. Leveret. Strawberry Jelly. Swiss Cream. Cheesecakes. Iced Pudding.
DESSERT.
PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR JUNE.
2005. Sunday.—1. Salmon trout and parsley-and-butter, new potatoes. 2. Roast fillet of veal, boiled bacon-cheek and spinach, vegetables. 3. Gooseberry tart, custards.
2006. Monday.—1. Light gravy soup. 2. Small meat pie, minced veal, garnished with rolled bacon, spinach and potatoes. 3. Raspberry-and-currant tart.
2007. Tuesday.—1. Baked mackerel, potatoes. 2. Boiled leg of lamb, garnished with young carrots. 3. Lemon pudding.
2008. Wednesday.—1. Vegetable soup. 2. Calf's liver and bacon, peas, hashed lamb from remains of cold joint. 3. Baked gooseberry pudding.
2009. Thursday—1. Roast ribs of beef, Yorkshire pudding, peas, potatoes. 2. Stewed rhubarb and boiled rice.
2010. Friday.—1. Cold beef and salad, lamb cutlets and peas. 2. Boiled gooseberry pudding and baked custard pudding.
2011. Saturday.—1. Rump-steak pudding, broiled beef-bones and cucumber, vegetables. 2. Bread pudding.
* * * * *
2012. Sunday.—1. Roast fore-quarter of lamb, mint sauce, peas, and new potatoes. 2. Gooseberry pudding, strawberry tartlets. Fondue.
2013. Monday.—1. Cold lamb and salad, stewed neck of veal and peas, young carrots, and new potatoes. 2. Almond pudding.
2014. Tuesday.—1. Green-pea soup. 2. Roast ducks stuffed, gravy, peas and new potatoes. 3. Baked ratafia pudding.
2015. Wednesday.—1. Roast leg of mutton, summer cabbage, potatoes. 2. Gooseberry and rice pudding.
2016. Thursday.—1. Fried soles, melted butter, potatoes. 2. Sweetbreads, hashed mutton, vegetables. 3. Bread-and-butter pudding.
2017. Friday.—1. Asparagus soup. 2. Boiled beef, young carrots and new potatoes, suet dumplings. 3. College puddings.
2018. Saturday.—1. Cold boiled beef and salad, lamb cutlets and green peas. 2. Boiled gooseberry pudding and plain cream.
JULY.
2019.—DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS.
First Course.
Green-Pea Soup, removed by Salmon and dressed Cucumber.
Whitebait. Vase of Stewed Trout Flowers.
Soup à la Reine, removed by Mackerel à la Maitre d'Hôtel.
Entrées
Lamb Cutlets and Peas.
Lobster Curry Vase of Scollops of en Casserole. Flowers. Chickens.
Chicken Patties.
Second Course.
Haunch of Venison.
Pigeon Pie.
Boiled Capons. Vase of Spring Chickens. Flowers.
Braised Ham.
Saddle of Lamb.
Third Course.
Prawns. Roast Ducks, Custards. removed by Vanilla Soufflé. Raspberry Cream.
Cherry Tart. Vase of Raspberry-and- Flowers. Currant Tart.
Strawberry Cream.
Green Goose, removed by Creams. Iced Pudding. Tartlets.
DESSERT AND ICES.
2020.—DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (July).
FIRST COURSE.
Soup à la Jardinière. Chicken Soup. Crimped Salmon and Parsley-and-Butter. Trout aux fines herbes, in cases.
ENTREES. Tendrons de Veau and Peas. Lamb Cutlets and Cucumbers.
SECOND COURSE. Loin of Veal à la Béchamel. Roast Fore-quarter of Lamb. Salad. Braised Ham, garnished with Broad Beans. Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE. Roast Ducks. Turkey Poult. Stewed Peas à la Francaise. Lobster Salad. Cherry Tart. Raspberry-and-Currant Tart. Custards, in glasses. Lemon Creams. Nesselrode Pudding. Marrow Pudding.
DESSERT AND ICES.
2021.—DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (July)
FIRST COURSE. Green-Pea Soup. Salmon and Lobster Sauce. Crimped Perch and Dutch Sauce.
ENTREES. Stewed Veal and Peas. Lamb Cutlets and Cucumbers.
SECOND COURSE. Haunch of Venison. Boiled Fowls à la Béchamel. Braised Ham. Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE. Roast Ducks. Peas à la Française. Lobster Salad. Strawberry Cream. Blancmange. Cherry Tart. Cheesecakes. Iced Pudding.
DESSERT AND ICES.
2022.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (July).—I.
FIRST COURSE. Soup à la Jardinière. Salmon Trout and Parsley-and-Butter. Fillets of Mackerel à la Maître d'Hôtel.
ENTREES. Lobster Cutlets. Beef Palates à la Italienne.
SECOND COURSE. Roast Lamb. Boiled Capon and White Sauce. Boiled Tongue, garnished with small Vegetable Marrows. Bacon and Beans.
THIRD COURSE. Goslings. Whipped Strawberry Cream. Raspberry-and-Currant Tart. Meringues. Cherry Tartlets. Iced Pudding.
DESSERT AND ICES.
2023.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (July).—II.
FIRST COURSE. Julienne Soup. Crimped Salmon and Caper Sauce. Whitebait.
ENTREES. Croquettes à la Reine. Curried Lobster.
SECOND COURSE. Roast Lamb. Rump of Beef à la Jardinière.
THIRD COURSE. Larded Turkey Poult. Raspberry Cream. Cherry Tart. Custards, in glasses. Gâteaux à la Genévése. Nesselrode Pudding.
DESSERT.
PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR JULY.
2024. Sunday.—1. Salmon trout and parsley-and-butter. 2. Roast fillet of real, boiled bacon-cheek, peas, potatoes. 3. Raspberry-and-currant tart, baked custard pudding.
2025. Monday.—1. Green-pea soup. 2. Roast fowls garnished with water-cresses; gravy, bread sauce; cold veal and salad. 3. Cherry tart.
2026. Tuesday.—1. John dory and lobster sauce. 2. Curried fowl with remains of cold fowls, dish of rice, veal rolls with remains of cold fillet. 3. Strawberry cream.
2027. Wednesday.—1. Roast leg of mutton, vegetable marrow, and potatoes, melted butter. 2. Black-currant pudding.
2028. Thursday.—1. Fried soles, anchovy sauce. 2. Mutton cutlets and tomato sauce, bashed mutton, peas, potatoes. 3. Lemon dumplings.
2029. Friday.—1. Boiled brisket of beef, carrots, turnips, suet dumplings, peas, potatoes. 2. Baked semolina pudding.
2030. Saturday.—1. Cold beef and salad, lamb cutlets and peas. 2. Rolled jam pudding.
* * * * *
2031. Sunday.—1. Julienne soup. 2. Roast lamb, half calf's head, tongue and brains, boiled ham, peas and potatoes. 3. Cherry tart, custards.
2032. Monday.—1. Hashed calf's head, cold lamb and salad. 2. Vegetable marrow and white sauce, instead of pudding.
2033. Tuesday.—1. Stewed veal, with peas, young carrots, and potatoes. Small meat pie. 2. Raspberry-and-currant pudding.
2034. Wednesday.—1. Roast ducks stuffed, gravy, peas, and potatoes; the remains of stewed veal rechauffé. 2. Macaroni served as a sweet pudding.
2035. Thursday.—1. Slices of salmon and caper sauce. 2. Boiled knuckle of veal, parsley-and-butter, vegetable marrow and potatoes. 3. Black-currant pudding.
2036. Friday.—1. Roast shoulder of mutton, onion sauce, peas and potatoes. 2. Cherry tart, baked custard pudding.
2037. Saturday.—1. Minced mutton, Rump-steak-and-kidney pudding. 2. Baked lemon pudding.
AUGUST.
2038.—DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS.
First Course.
Mock-Turtle Soup, removed by Broiled Salmon and Caper Sauce.
Red Mullet. Vase of Perch. Flowers.
Soup à la Julienne, removed by Brill and Shrimp Sauce.
Entrées.
Fricandeau de Veau à la Jardinière.
Curried Lobster. Vase of Lamb Cutlets à la Purée Flowers. de Pommes de Terre.
Fillets of Ducks and Peas.
Second Course.
Haunch of Venison.
Ham, garnished.
Capon à la Vase of Roast Fowl. Financière Flowers.
Leveret Pie.
Saddle of Mutton.
Third Course.
Grouse, removed by Cabinet Pudding.
Lobster Salad. Fruit Jelly. Cheesecakes.
Charlotte à la Vase of Custards. Vanille. Flowers.
Raspberry Vol-au-Vent Prawns. Tartlets. of Pears.
Larded Peahen, removed by Iced Pudding.
DESSERT AND ICES.
2039.—DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (August)
FIRST COURSE. Vermicelli Soup. Soup à la Reine. Boiled Salmon. Fried Flounders. Trout en Matelot.
ENTREES. Stewed Pigeons. Sweetbreads. Ragoût of Ducks. Fillets of Chickens and Mushrooms.
SECOND COURSE. Quarter of Lamb. Cotelette de Boeuf à la Jardinière. Roast Fowls and Boiled Tongue. Bacon and Beans.
THIRD COURSE. Grouse. Wheatears. Greengage Tart. Whipped Cream. Vol-au-Vent of Plums. Fruit Jelly. Iced Pudding. Cabinet Pudding.
DESSERTS AND ICES.
2040.—DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (August).
FIRST COURSE. Julienne Soup. Fillets of Turbot and Dutch Sauce. Red Mullet.
ENTREES. Riz de Veau aux Tomates. Fillets of Ducks and Peas.
SECOND COURSE. Haunch of Venison. Boiled Capon and Oysters. Ham, garnished. Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE. Leveret. Fruit Jelly. Compote of Greengages. Plum Tart. Custards, in glasses. Omelette soufflé.
DESSERT AND ICES.
2041.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (August).—I.
FIRST COURSE. Macaroni Soup. Crimped Salmon and Sauce Hollandaise. Fried Fillets of Trout.
ENTREES. Tendrons de Veau and Stewed Peas. Salmi of Grouse.
SECOND COURSE. Roast Loin of Veal. Boiled Bacon, garnished with French Beans. Stewed Beef à la Jardinière. Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE. Turkey Poult. Plum Tart. Custard Pudding. Vol-au-Vent of Pears. Strawberry Cream. Ratafia Soufflé.
DESSERT.
2042.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (August).—II.
FIRST COURSE. Vegetable-Marrow Soup. Stowed Mullet. Fillets of Salmon and Ravigotte Sauce.
ENTREES. Curried Lobster. Fricandeau de Veau à la Jardinière.
SECOND COURSE. Roast Saddle of Mutton. Stewed Shoulder of Veal, garnished with Forcemeat Balls. Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE. Roast Grouse and Bread Sauce. Vol-au-Vent of Greengages. Fruit Jolly. Raspberry Cream. Custards. Fig Pudding.
DESSERT.
PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR AUGUST.
2043. Sunday.—1. Vegetable-marrow soup. 2. Roast quarter of lamb, mint sauce, French beans and potatoes. 3. Raspberry-and-currant tart, custard pudding.
2044. Monday.—1. Cold lamb and salad, small meat pie, vegetable marrow and white sauce. 2. Lemon dumplings.
2045. Tuesday.—1. Boiled mackerel. 2. Stewed loin of veal, French beans and potatoes. 3. Baked raspberry pudding.
2046. Wednesday.—1. Vegetable soup. 2. Lamb cutlets and French beans; the remains of stewed shoulder of veal, mashed vegetable marrow. 3. Black-currant pudding.
2047. Thursday.—1. Roast ribs of beef, Yorkshire pudding, French beans and potatoes. 2. Bread-and-butter pudding.
2048. Friday.—1. Fried soles and melted butter. 2. Cold beef and salad, lamb cutlets and mashed potatoes. 3. Cauliflowers and white sauce instead of pudding.
2049. Saturday.—1. Stewed beef and vegetables, with remains of cold beef; mutton pudding. 2. Macaroni and cheese.
* * * * *
2050. Sunday.—1. Salmon pudding. 2. Roast fillet of veal, boiled bacon-cheek garnished with tufts of cauliflowers, French beans and potatoes. 3. Plum tart, boiled custard pudding.
2051. Monday.—1. Baked soles. 2. Cold veal and bacon, salad, mutton cutlets and tomato sauce. 3. Boiled currant pudding.
2052. Tuesday.—1. Rice soup. 2. Roast fowls and water-cresses, boiled knuckle of ham, minced veal garnished with croutons; vegetables. 3. College puddings.
2053. Wednesday.—1. Curried fowl with remains of cold fowl; dish of rice, stewed rump-steak and vegetables. 2. Plum tart.
2054. Thursday.—1. Boiled brisket of beef, carrots, turnips, suet dumplings, and potatoes. 2. Baked bread pudding.
2055. Friday.—1. Vegetable soup, made from liquor that beef was boiled in. 2. Cold beef and dressed cucumber, veal cutlets and tomato sauce. 3. Fondue.
2056. Saturday.—1. Bubble-and-squeak, made from remains of cold beef; cold veal-and-ham pie, salad. 2. Baked raspberry pudding.
SEPTEMBER.
2057.—DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS.
First Course.
Julienne Soup, removed by Brill and Shrimp Sauce.
Red Mullet & Vase of Fried Eels. Italian Sauce. Flowers.
Giblet Soup, removed by Salmon and Lobster Sauce.
Entrées.
Lamb Cutlets and French Beans.
Fillets of Chicken Vase of Oysters au gratin. and Truffles. Flowers.
Sweetbreads and Tomata Sauce.
Second Course.
Saddle of Mutton.
Veal-and-Ham Pie.
Chickens à la Vase of Braised Goose. Béchamel. Flowers.
Broiled Ham, garnished with Cauliflowers.
Filet of Veal.
Third Course.
Custards. Partridges, Apple Tart. removed by Plum-pudding.
Compôte of Greengages.
Noyeau Jelly. Vase of Lemon Cream. Flowers.
Pastry Sandwiches.
Grouse & Bread Sauce, removed by Plum Tart. Nesselrode Pudding. Custards.
DESSERTS AND ICES.
2058.—DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (September).
FIRST COURSE.
Mock-Turtle Soup. Soup à la Jardinière Salmon and Lobster Sauce. Fried Whitings. Stewed Eels.
ENTREES. Veal Cutlets. Scalloped Oysters. Curried Fowl. Grilled Mushrooms.
SECOND COURSE. Haunch of Mutton. Boiled Calf's Head à la Béchamel. Braised Ham. Roast Fowls aux Cressons.
THIRD COURSE. Leveret. Grouse. Cabinet Pudding. Iced Pudding. Compôte of Plumbs. Damson Tart. Cream. Fruit Jelly. Prawns. Lobster Salad.
DESSERTS AND ICES.
2059.—DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (September).
FIRST COURSE. Flemish Soup. Turbot, garnished with Fried Smelts. Red Mullet and Italian Sauce.
ENTREES. Tendrons de Veau and Truffles. Lamb Cutlets and Sauce Piquante.
SECOND COURSE. Loin of Veal à la Béchamel. Roast Haunch of Venison. Braised Ham. Grouse Pie. Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE. Roast Hare. Plum Tart. Whipped Cream. Punch Jelly. Compôte of Damsons. Marrow Pudding.
DESSERT.
2060.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (September).
FIRST COURSE. Game Soup. Crimped Skate. Slices of Salmon a la Genévése.
ENTREES. Fricasseed Sweetbreads. Savoury Rissoles.
SECOND COURSE. Sirloin of Beef and Horseradish Sauce. Boiled Leg of Mutton and Caper Sauce. Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE. Roast Partridges. Charlotte Russe. Apricots and Rice. Fruit Jelly. Cabinet Pudding.
DESSERT.
2061.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (September).—II.
FIRST COURSE. Thick Gravy Soup. Fillets of Turbot à la Crême. Stewed Eels.
ENTREES. Vol-au-Vent of Lobster. Salmi of Grouse.
SECOND COURSE. Haunch of Venison. Rump of Beef à la Jardinière. Hare, boned and larded, with Mushrooms.
THIRD COURSE. Roast Grouse. Apricot Blancmange. Compôte of peaches. Plum Tart. Custards. Plum-pudding.
DESSERT.
PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR SEPTEMBER.
2062. Sunday.—1. Julienne soup. 2. Roast ribs of beef, Yorkshire pudding, horseradish sauce, French beans, and potatoes. 3. Greengage pudding, vanilla cream.
2063. Monday.—1. Crimped skate and crab sauce. 2. Cold beef and salad; small veal-and-ham pie. 3. Vegetable marrow and white sauce.
2064. Tuesday.—1. Fried solos, melted butter. 2. Boiled fowls, parsley-and-butter; bacon-check, garnished with French beans; beef rissoles, made from remains of cold beef. 3. Plum tart and cream.
2065. Wednesday.—1. Boiled round of beef, carrots, turnips, and suet dumplings; marrow on toast. 2. Baked damsons and rice.
2066. Thursday.—1. Vegetable soup, made from liquor that beef was boiled in. 2. Lamb cutlets and cucumbers, cold beef and salad. 3. Apple pudding.
2067. Friday.—1. Baked soles. 2. Bubble-and-squeak, made from cold beef; veal cutlets and rolled bacon. 3. Damson tart.
2068. Saturday.—1. Irish stew, rump-steaks and oyster sauce. 2. Somersetshire dumplings.
* * * * *
2069. Sunday.—1. Fried filleted soles and anchovy sauce. 2. Roast leg of mutton, brown onion sauce, French beans, and potatoes; half calf's head, tongue, and brains. 3. Plum tart; custards, in glasses.
2070. Monday.—1. Vegetable-marrow soup. 2. Calf's head à la maitre d'hôtel, from remains of cold head; boiled brisket of beef and vegetables. 3. Stewed fruit and baked rice pudding.
1071. Tuesday.—1. Roast fowls and water-cresses; boiled bacon, garnished with tufts of cauliflower; hashed mutton, from remains of mutton of Sunday. 2. Baked plum-pudding.
2072. Wednesday.—1. Boiled knuckle of veal and rice, turnips, potatoes; small ham, garnished with French beans. 2. Baked apple pudding.
2073. Thursday.—1. Brill and shrimp sauce. 2. Roast hare, gravy, and red-currant jelly; mutton cutlets and mashed potatoes. 3. Scalloped oysters, instead of pudding.
2074. Friday.—1. Small roast loin of mutton; the remains of hare, jugged; vegetable marrow and potatoes. 2. Damson pudding.
2075. Saturday.—1. Rump-steaks, broiled, and oyster sauce, mashed potatoes; veal-and-ham pie,—the ham may be cut from that boiled on Wednesday, if not all eaten cold for breakfast. 2, Lemon pudding.
OCTOBER.
2076.—DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS.
First Course
Mock-Turtle Soup, removed by Crimped Cod and Oyster Sauce.
Soles à la Vase of Red Mullet. Normandie. Flowers.
Julienne Soup, removed by John Dory and Dutch Sauce.
Entrées
Sweetbreads and Tomata Sauce.
Oyster Patties. Vase of Stewed Mushrooms. Flowers.
Fricandeau de Veau and Celery Sauce.
Second Course.
Roast Saddle of Mutton.
Grouse Pie.
Roast Goose. Vase of Boiled Fowls and Flowers. Oyster Sauce.
Ham.
Larded Turkey.
Third Course.
Custards. Pheasants, Prawns. removed by Cabinet Pudding.
Italian Cream.
Gâteau de Vase of Compôte of Pommes. Flowers. Plums.
Peach Jelly.
Roast Hare, removed by Lobster Salad. Iced Pudding. Apple Tart.
DESSERT AND ICES.
2077.—DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (OCTOBER).
FIRST COURSE. Carrot Soup à la Créci. Soup à la Reine. Baked Cod. Stewed Eels.
ENTREES. Riz de Veau and Tomata Sauce. Vol-au-Vent of Chicken. Pork Cutlets and Sauce Robert. Grilled Mushrooms.
SECOND COURSE. Rump of Beef à la Jardinière. Roast Goose. Boiled Fowls and Celery Sauce. Tongue, garnished. Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE. Grouse. Pheasants. Quince Jelly. Lemon Cream. Apple Tart. Compote of Peaches. Nesselrode Pudding. Cabinet Pudding. Scalloped Oysters.
DESSERT AND ICES.
2078.—DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (October).
FIRST COURSE. Calf's-Head Soup. Crimped Cod and Oyster Sauce. Stewed Eels.
ENTREES. Stewed Mutton Kidneys. Curried Sweetbreads.
SECOND COURSE. Boiled Leg of Mutton, garnished with Carrots and Turnips. Roast Goose.
THIRD COURSE. Partridges. Fruit Jelly. Italian Cream. Vol-au-Vent of Pears. Apple Tart. Cabinet Pudding.
DESSERT AND ICES.
2079.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (October).—I.
FIRST COURSE. Hare Soup. Broiled Cod à la Maître d'Hôtel. Haddocks and Egg Sauce.
ENTREES. Veal Cutlets, garnished with French Beans. Haricot Mutton.
SECOND COURSE. Roast Haunch of Mutton. Boiled Capon and Rice. Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE. Pheasants. Punch Jelly. Blancmange. Apples à la Portugaise. Charlotte à la Vanille. Marrow Pudding.
DESSERT.
2080.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (October).—II.
FIRST COURSE. Mock-Turtle Soup. Brill and Lobster Sauce. Fried Whitings.
ENTREES. Fowl à la Béchamel. Oyster Patties.
SECOND COURSE. Roast Sucking-Pig. Stewed Hump of Beef à la Jardinière. Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE. Grouse. Charlotte aux Pommes. Coffee Cream. Cheesecakes. Apricot Tart. Iced Pudding.
DESSERT.
PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR OCTOBER.
2081. Sunday.—1. Roast sucking-pig, tomata sauce and brain sauce; small boiled leg of mutton, caper sauce, turnips, and carrots. 2. Damson tart, boiled batter pudding.
2082. Monday.—1. Vegetable soup, made from liquor that mutton was boiled in. 2. Sucking-pig en blanquette, small meat pie, French beans, and potatoes. 3. Pudding, pies.
2083. Tuesday.—1. Roast partridges, bread sauce, and gravy; slices of mutton warmed in caper sauce; vegetables. 2. Baked plum-pudding.
2084. Wednesday.—1. Roast ribs of beef, Yorkshire pudding, vegetable marrow, and potatoes. 2. Damson pudding.
2085. Thursday.—1. Fried soles, melted butter. 2. Cold beef and salad; mutton cutlets and tomata sauce. 3. Macaroni.
2086. Friday.—1. Carrot soup. 2. Boiled fowls and celery sauce; bacon-check, garnished with greens; beef rissoles, from remains of cold beef. 3. Baroness pudding.
2087. Saturday.—1. Curried fowl, from remains of cold ditto; dish of rice, Rump-steak-and-kidney pudding, vegetables. 2. Stewed pears and sponge cakes.
* * * * *
2088. Sunday.—1. Crimped cod and oyster sauce. 2. Roast haunch of mutton, brown onion sauce, and vegetables. 3. Bullace pudding, baked custards in cups.
2089. Monday.—1. The remains of codfish, flaked, and warmed in a maître d'hôtel sauce. 2. Cold mutton and salad, veal cutlets and rolled bacon, French beans and potatoes. 3. Arrowroot blancmange and stewed damsons. 2090. Tuesday.—1. Roast hare, gravy, and red-currant jelly; hashed mutton, vegetables. 2. Currant dumplings.
2091. Wednesday.—1. Jugged hare, from remains of roast ditto; boiled knuckle of veal and rice; boiled bacon-cheek. 2. Apple pudding.
2092. Thursday.—1. Roast leg of pork, apple sauce, greens, and potatoes. 2. Rice snowballs.
2093. Friday.—1. Slices of pork, broiled, and tomata sauce, mashed potatoes; roast pheasants, bread sauce, and gravy. 2. Baked apple pudding.
2094. Saturday.—1. Rump-steak pie, sweetbreads. 2. Ginger pudding.
NOVEMBER. 2095.—DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS.
First Course.
Thick Grouse Soup, removed by Crimped Cod and Oyster Sauce.
Baked Whitings. Vase of Fried Smelts. Flowers.
Clear Ox-tail Soup, removed by Fillets of Turbot à la Crême.
Entrées.
Poulet à la Marengo.
Fillets of Leveret. Vase of Ragoût of Lobster. Flowers.
Mushrooms sautés.
Second Course.
Haunch of Mutton.
Cold Game Pie.
Lark Pudding. Vase of Roast Fowls. Flowers.
Boiled Ham.
Boiled Turkey and Celery Sauce.
Third Course.
Apple Tart. Partridges, Shell-Fish. removed by Plum-pudding.
Wine Jelly.
Pommes à la Vase of Vol-au-Vent Condé. Flowers. of Pears.
Snipes, removed by Prawns. Charlotte glacée. Apricot Tartlets.
DESSERT AND ICES.
2096.—DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (November).
FIRST COURSE. Hare Soup. Julienne Soup. Baked Cod. Soles à la Normandie.
ENTREES. Riz de Veau aux Tomates. Lobster Patties. Mutton Cutlets and Soubise Sauce. Croûtades of Marrow aux fines herbes.
SECOND COURSE. Roast Sirloin of Beef. Braised Goose. Boiled Fowls and Celery Sauce. Bacon-cheek, garnished with Sprouts.
THIRD COURSE. Wild Ducks. Partridges. Apples à la Portugaise. Bavarian Cream. Apricot-jam Sandwiches. Cheesecakes. Charlotte à la Vanille. Plum-pudding.
DESSERT AND ICES.
2097.—DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (NOVEMBER).
FIRST COURSE. Mulligatawny Soup. Fried slices of Codfish and Oyster Sauce. Eels en Matelote.
ENTREES. Broiled Pork Cutlets and Tomata Sauce. Tendrons de Veau à la Jardinière.
SECOND COURSE. Boiled Leg of Mutton and Vegetables. Roast Goose. Cold Game Pie.
THIRD COURSE. Snipes. Teal. Apple Soufflé. Iced Charlotte. Tartlets. Champagne Jelly. Coffee Cream. Mince Pies.
DESSERT AND ICES.
2098.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (NOVEMBER).
FIRST COURSE. Oyster Soup. Crimped Cod and Oyster Sauce. Fried Perch and Dutch Sauce.
ENTREES. Pigs' Feet à la Béchamel. Curried Rabbit.
SECOND COURSE. Roast Sucking-Pig. Boiled Fowls and Oyster Sauce. Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE. Jugged Hare. Meringues à la Crême. Apple Custard. Vol-au-Vent of Pears. Whipped Cream. Cabinet Pudding.
DESSERT.
2099.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (NOVEMBER).—II.
FIRST COURSE. Game Soup. Slices of Codfish and Dutch Sauce. Fried Eels.
ENTREES. Kidneys à la Maître d'Hôtel. Oyster Patties.
SECOND COURSE. Saddle of Mutton. Boiled Capon and Rice. Small Ham. Lark Pudding.
THIRD COURSE. Roast Hare. Apple Tart. Pineapple Cream. Clear Jelly. Cheesecakes. Marrow Pudding. Nesselrode Pudding.
DESSERT.
PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR NOVEMBER.
2100. Sunday.—1. White soup. 2. Roast haunch of mutton, haricot beans, potatoes. 3. Apple tart, ginger pudding.
2101. Monday.—1. Stewed eels. 2. Veal cutlets garnished with rolled bacon; cold mutton and winter salad. 3. Baked rice pudding.
2102. Tuesday.—1. Roast fowls, garnished with water-cresses; boiled bacon-cheek; hashed mutton from remains of haunch. 2. Apple pudding.
2103. Wednesday.—1. Boiled leg of pork, carrots, parsnips, and pease-pudding; fowl croquettes made with remainder of cold fowl. 2. Baroness pudding.
2104. Thursday.—1. Cold pork and mashed potatoes; roast partridges, bread sauce and gravy. 2. The remainder of pudding cut into neat slices, and warmed through, and served with sifted sugar sprinkled over; apple fritters.
2105. Friday.—1. Roast hare, gravy, and currant jelly; rump-steak and oyster sauce; vegetables. 2. Macaroni.
2106. Saturday.—1. Jugged hare; small mutton pudding. 2. Fig pudding.
* * * * *
2107. Sunday.—1. Crimped cod and oyster sauce. 2. Roast fowls, small boiled ham, vegetables; rump-steak pie. 3. Baked apple pudding, open jam tart.
2108. Monday.—1. The remainder of cod warmed in maître d'hôtel sauce. 2. Boiled aitchbone of beef, carrots, parsnips, suet dumplings. 3. Baked bread-and-butter pudding.
2109. Tuesday.—1. Pea-soup, made from liquor in which beef was boiled. 2. Cold beef, mashed potatoes; mutton cutlets and tomata sauce. 3. Carrot pudding.
2110. Wednesday.—1. Fried soles and melted butter. 2. Roast leg of pork, apple sauce, vegetables. 3. Macaroni with Parmesan cheese.
2111. Thursday.—1. Bubble-and-squeak from remains of cold beef; curried pork. 2. Baked Semolina pudding.
2112. Friday.—1. Roast leg of mutton, stewed Spanish onions, potatoes. 2. Apple tart.
2113. Saturday.—1. Hashed mutton; boiled rabbit and onion sauce; vegetables. 2. Damson pudding made with bottled fruit.
DECEMBER.
2114.—DINNER FOR 18 PERSONS.
First Course.
Mock-Turtle Soup, removed by Cod's Head and Shoulders and Oyster Sauce.
Stewed Eels. Vase of Fried Whitings. Flowers.
Julienne Soup, removed by Soles aux fines herbes.
Entrées.
Fillets of Grouse and Sauce Piquante.
Curried Lobster. Vase of Mutton Cutlets and Flowers. Soubise Sauce.
Sweetbreads.
Second Course.
Haunch of Mutton.
Ham and Brussels Sprouts.
Roast Goose. Vase of Stewed Beef à la Flowers. Jardinière.
Game Pie.
Boiled Turkey and Celery Sauce.
Third Course.
Apricot Torte. Pheasants, Victoria removed by Sandwiches.
Plum-pudding.
Vanilla Cream.
Lemon Jelly. Vase of Champagne Jelly. Flowers.
Blancmange.
Wild Ducks, removed by Tipsy Cake. Iced Pudding. Mince Pies.
DESSERT AND ICES.
2115.—DINNER FOR 12 PERSONS (December).
FIRST COURSE. Game Soup. Clear Vermicelli Soup. Codfish au gratin. Fillets of Whitings à la Maître d'Hôtel.
ENTREES. Filet de Boeuf and Sauce Piquante. Fricasseed Chicken. Oyster Patties. Curried Rabbit.
SECOND COURSE. Roast Turkey and Sausages. Boiled Leg of Pork and Vegetables. Roast Goose. Stewed Beef à la Jardinière.
THIRD COURSE. Widgeon. Partridges. Charlotte aux Pommes. Mince Pies. Orange Jelly. Lemon Cream. Apple Tart. Cabinet Pudding.
DESSERT AND ICES.
2116.—DINNER FOR 10 PERSONS (December).
FIRST COURSE. Mulligatawny Soup. Fried Slices of Codfish. Soles à la Crême.
ENTREES. Croquettes of Fowl. Pork Cutlets and Tomata Sauce.
SECOND COURSE. Roast Ribs of Beef. Boiled Turkey and Celery Sauce. Tongue, garnished. Lark Pudding. Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE. Roast Hare. Grouse. Plum-pudding. Mince Pies. Charlotte à la Parisienne. Cheesecakes. Apple Tart. Nesselrode Pudding.
DESSERT AND ICES.
2117.—DINNER FOR 8 PERSONS (December).
FIRST COURSE. Carrot Soup. Crimped Cod and Oyster Sauce. Baked Soles.
ENTREES. Mutton Kidneys à la Française. Oyster Patties.
SECOND COURSE. Boiled Beef and Vegetables. Marrow-bones. Roast Fowls and Water-cresses Tongue, garnished. Game Pie.
THIRD COURSE. Partridges. Blancmange. Compôte of Apples. Vol-au-Vent of Pears. Almond Cheesecakes. Lemon Pudding.
DESSERT AND ICES.
2118.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (December).—I.
FIRST COURSE. Rabbit Soup. Brill and Shrimp Sauce.
ENTREES. Curried Fowl. Oyster Patties.
SECOND COURSE. Roast Turkey and Sausages. Boiled Leg of Pork. Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE. Hunters' Pudding. Lemon Cheesecakes. Apple Tart. Custards, in glasses. Raspberry Cream.
DESSERT.
2119.—DINNER FOR, 6 PERSONS (December).—II.
FIRST COURSE. Ox-tail Soup. Crimped Cod and Oyster Sauce.
ENTREES. Savoury Rissoles. Fowl Scollops à la Béchamel.
SECOND COURSE. Haunch of Mutton. Boiled Chickens and Celery Sauce. Bacon-cheek, garnished with Brussels Sprouts. Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE. Snipes. Orange Jelly. Cheesecakes. Apples à la Portugaise. Apricot-jam Tartlets. Soufflé of Rice.
DESSERT.
2120.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (December).—III.
FIRST COURSE. Vermicelli Soup. Soles à la Maître d'Hôtel. Fried Eels.
ENTREES. Pork Cutlets and Tomato Sauce. Ragoût of Mutton à la Jardinière.
SECOND COURSE. Roast Goose. Boiled Leg of Mutton and Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE. Pheasants. Whipped Cream. Meringues. Compôte of Normandy Pippins. Mince Pies. Plum-pudding.
Dessert.
2121.—DINNER FOR 6 PERSONS (December).—IV.
FIRST COURSE. Carrot Soup. Baked Cod. Fried Smelts.
ENTREES. Stewed Rump-steak à la Jardinière. Fricasseed Chicken.
SECOND COURSE. Roast Leg of Mutton, boned and stuffed. Boiled Turkey and Oyster Sauce. Vegetables.
THIRD COURSE. Wild Ducks. Fancy Pastry. Lemon Cream. Damson Tart, with bottled fruit. Custards, in glasses. Cabinet Pudding.
Dessert.
PLAIN FAMILY DINNERS FOR DECEMBER.
2122. Sunday.—1. Carrot soup. 2. Roast beef, horseradish sauce, vegetables. 3. Plum-pudding, mince pies.
2123. Monday.—1. Fried whitings, melted butter. 2. Rabbit pie, cold beef, mashed potatoes. 3. Plum-pudding cut in slices and warmed; apple tart.
2124. Tuesday.—1. Hashed beef and broiled bones, pork cutlets and tomata sauce; vegetables. 2. Baked lemon pudding.
2125. Wednesday.—1. Boiled neck of mutton and vegetables; the broth served first with a little pearl barley or rice boiled in it 2. Bakewell pudding.
2126. Thursday.—1. Roast leg of pork, apple sauce, vegetables. 2. Rice snowballs.
2127. Friday.—1. Soles à la Crime. 2. Cold pork and mashed potatoes, broiled rump-steaks and oyster sauce. 3. Rolled jam pudding.
2128. Saturday.—1. The remains of cold pork curried, dish of rice, mutton cutlets, and mashed potatoes. 2. Baked apple dumplings.
* * * * *
2129. Sunday.—1. Roast turkey and sausages, boiled leg of pork, pease pudding, vegetables. 2. Baked apple pudding, mince pies.
2130. Monday.—1. Hashed turkey, cold pork, mashed potatoes. 2. Mince-meat pudding.
2131. Tuesday.—1. Pea-soup made from liquor in which pork was boiled. 2. Boiled fowls and celery sauce, vegetables. 3. Baked rice pudding.
2132. Wednesday.—1. Roast leg of mutton, stewed Spanish onions, potatoes. 2. Baked rolled jam pudding.
2133. Thursday.—1. Baked cod's head. 2. Cold mutton, roast hare, gravy and red-currant jelly. 3. Macaroni.
2134. Friday.—1. Hare soup, made with stock and remains of roast hare. 2. Hashed mutton, pork cutlets, and mashed potatoes. 3. Open tarts, rice blancmange.
2135. Saturday.—1. Rump-steak-and-kidney pudding, vegetables. 2. Mince pies, baked apple dumplings.
2136.—BILL OF FARE FOR A GAME DINNER FOR 30 PERSONS (November).
First course.
Hare Soup.
Purée of Grouse. Vase of Pheasant Soup. Flowers.
Soup á la Reine.
Entrées.
Salmi of Fillets of Hare Salmi of Widgeon. en Chevereuil. Woodcock.
Perdrixaux Choux.
Lark Pudding. Vase of Game Patties. Flowers.
Curried Rabbit.
Salmi of Fillet of Pheasant Salmi of Woodcock. and Truffles. Widgeon.
Second Course.
Larded Pheasants. Leveret, larded and stuffed.
Cold Pheasant Pie Vase of Hot raised Pie of á la Périgord. Flowers. mixed Game.
Grouse.
Larded Partridges.
Third Course.
Snipes. Pintails. Ortolans.
Quails.
Golden Vase of Widgeon. Plovers. Flowers.
Teal.
Wild Duck. Woodcock. Snipes.
Entremets and Removes.
Apricot Boudin à la Nesselrode. Maids of Tart. Honour.
Dantzic Jelly.
Vol-au-Vent Vase of Gâteau. of Pears. Flowers. Génoise glacé.
Charlotte Russe.
Maids of Plum Pudding. Compôte of Honour. Apples.
Dessert.
Olives. Strawberry-Ice Figs. Cream.
Preserved Pineapples. Dried Cherries. Fruit. Grapes.
Filberts. Pears. Walnuts. Wafers. Biscuits.
Ginger-Ice Cream. Vase of Orange-Water Ice. Flowers.
Apples.
Dried Grapes. Preserved Fruit. Cherries. Pears.
Figs. Lemon-Water Ice. Olives.
MENU.
2137.—SERVICE A LA RUSSE (July).
Julienne Soup. Vermicelli Soup.
Boiled Salmon. Turbot and Lobster Sauce.
Soles-Water Souchy. Perch-Water Souchy.
Matelote d'Anguilles à la Toulouse. Filets de Soles à la Normandie.
Red Mullet. Trout.
Lobster Rissoles. Whitebait.
Riz de Veau à la Banquière. Filets de Poulets aux Coucombres.
Canards à la Rouennaise. Mutton Cutlets à la Jardinière.
Braised Beef à la Flamande. Spring Chickens.
Roast Quarter of Lamb. Roast Saddle of Mutton.
Tongue. Ham and Peas.
Quails, larded. Roast Ducks. Turkey Poult, larded.
Mayonnaise of Chicken. Tomatas. Green Peas à la Française.
Suédoise of Strawberries. Charlotte Russe. Compôte of Cherries.
Neapolitan Cakes. Pastry. Madeira Wine Jelly.
Iced Pudding à la Nesselrode.
DESSERT AND ICES.
Note.—Dinners à la Russe differ from ordinary dinners in the mode of serving the various dishes. In a dinner à la Russe, the dishes are cut up on a sideboard, and handed round to the guests, and each dish may be considered a course. The table for a dinner à la Russe should be laid with flowers and plants in fancy flowerpots down the middle, together with some of the dessert dishes. A menu or bill of fare should be laid by the side of each guest.
MENU.
2138.—SERVICE A LA RUSSE (November).
Ox-tail Soup. Soup à la Jardinière.
Turbot and Lobster Sauce. Crimped Cod and Oyster Sauce.
Stewed Eels. Soles à la Normandie.
Pike and Cream Sauce. Fried Filleted Soles.
Filets de Boeuf à la Jardinière. Croquettes of Game aux Champignons.
Chicken Cutlets. Mutton Cutlets and Tomata Sauce.
Lobster Rissoles. Oyster Patties.
Partridges aux fines herbes. Larded Sweetbreads.
Roast Beef. Poulets aux Cressons.
Haunch of Mutton. Roast Turkey.
Boiled Turkey and Celery Sauce. Ham.
Grouse. Pheasants. Hare.
Salad. Artichokes. Stewed Celery.
Italian Cream. Charlotte aux Pommes. Compôte of Pears.
Croûtes madrées aux Fruits. Pastry. Punch Jelly.
Iced Pudding.
DESSERT AND ICES.
Note.—Dinners à la Russe are scarcely suitable for small establishments; a large number of servants being required to carve; and to help the guests; besides there being a necessity for more plates, dishes, knives, forks, and spoons, than are usually to be found in any other than a very large establishment. Where, however, a service à la Russe is practicable, there it, perhaps, no mode of serving a dinner so enjoyable as this.
SUPPERS.
2139. Much may be done in the arrangement of a supper-table, at a very small expense, provided taste and ingenuity are exercised. The colours and flavours of the various dishes should contrast nicely; there should be plenty of fruit and flowers on the table, and the room should be well lighted. We have endeavoured to show how the various dishes may be placed; but of course these little matters entirely depend on the length and width of the table used, on individual taste, whether the tables are arranged round the room, whether down the centre, with a cross one at the top, or whether the supper is laid in two separate rooms, &c. &c. The garnishing of the dishes has also much to do with the appearance of a supper-table. Hams and tongues should be ornamented with cut vegetable flowers, raised pies with aspic jelly cut in dice, and all the dishes garnished sufficiently to be in good taste without looking absurd. The eye, in fact, should be as much gratified as the palate. Hot soup is now often served at suppers, but is not placed on the table. The servants fill the plates from a tureen on the buffet, and then hand them to the guests: when these plates are removed, the business of supper commences.
2140. Where small rooms and large parties necessitate having a standing supper, many things enumerated in the following bill of fare may be placed on the buffet. Dishes for these suppers should be selected which may be eaten standing without any trouble. The following list may, perhaps, assist our readers in the arrangement of a buffet for a standing supper.
2141. Beef, ham, and tongue sandwiches, lobster and oyster patties, sausage rolls, meat rolls, lobster salad, dishes of fowls, the latter all cut up; dishes of sliced ham, sliced tongue, sliced beef, and galantine of veal; various jellies, blancmanges, and creams; custards in glasses, compôtes of fruit, tartlets of jam, and several dishes of small fancy pastry; dishes of fresh fruit, bonbons, sweetmeats, two or three sponge cakes, a few plates of biscuits, and the buffet ornamented with vases of fresh or artificial flowers. The above dishes are quite sufficient for a standing supper; where more are desired, a supper must then be laid and arranged in the usual manner.
2142.—BILL OF FARE FOR A BALL SUPPER FOR 60 PERSONS (For Winter)
Boar's Head, garnished with Aspic Jelly. Lobster Salad Lobster Salad. Fruited Jelly. Mayonnaise of Fowl. Charlotte Russe.
Small Ham, garnished.
Small Pastry. Iced Savoy Cake. Biscuits.
Vanilla Cream EPERGNE, WITH FRUIT. Fruited Jelly.
Two Roast Fowls, cut up. Two Roast Fowls, cut up.
Prawns Two Boiled Fowls, with Béchamel Prawns Sauce. Biscuits Small Pastry Tongue, ornamented.
Custards, TRIFLE, ORNAMENTED. Custards, in glasses. in glasses. Raised Chicken Pie.
Tipsy Cake Lobster Salad. Lobster Salad. Fruited Jelly. Swiss Cream. Roast Pheasant.
Meringues. EPERGNE, WITH FRUIT. Meringues.
Raspberry Cream. Galantine of Veal. Fruited Jelly.
Tipsy Cake. Small Pastry. Biscuits. Raised Game Pie.
Custards, TRIFLE, ORNAMENTED Custards, in glasses. in glasses.
Two Roast Fowls, cut up. Two Roast Fowls, cut up. Tongue, ornamented. Prawns. Prawns. Two Boiled Fowls, with Béchamel Sauce. Biscuits. Small Pastry. EPERGNE, WITH FRUIT. Lobster Salad. Lobster Salad. Fruited Jelly. Iced Savoy Cake. Blancmange.
Small Ham, garnished.
Mayonnaise of Fowl. Charlotte Russe. Fruited Jelly. Larded Capon.
Note: When soup is served from the buffet, Mock Turtle and Julienne may be selected. Besides the articles enumerated above, Ices, Wafers, Biscuits, Tea, Coffee, Wines and Liqueurs will be required. Punch a la Romaine may also be added to the list of beverages.
2143.—BILL OF FARE FOR A BALL SUPPER,
Or a Cold Collation for a Summer Entertainment, or Wedding or Christening Breakfast for 70 or 80 Persons (July).
[Illustration: Containing the following—]
[Columns 1 and 5] 4 Blancmanges, to be placed down the table. 4 Jellies, to be placed down the table. 3 Dishes of Small Pastry. 3 Fruit Tarts. 3 Cheesecakes. 3 Compotes of Fruit. 3 English Pines. 20 Small Dishes of various Summer Fruits.
[Column 2] Dish of Lobster, cut up. Charlotte Russe à la Vanille. Lobster Salad Pigeon Pie. Lobster Salad. Dish of Lobster, cut up. Larded Capon. Lobster Salad. Pigeon Pie. Dish of Lobster, cut up. Savoy Cake. Lobster Salad.
[Column 3] Tongue. Ribs of Lamb. Two Roast Fowls. Mayonnaise of Salmon. Epergne, with Flowers. Mayonnaise of Trout. Tongue, garnished. Boiled Fowls and Béchamel Sauce. Collared Eel. Ham. Raised Pie. Two Roast Fowls. Shoulder of Lamb, stuffed. Mayonnaise of Salmon. Epergne, with Flowers. Mayonnaise of Trout. Tongue. Boiled Fowls and Béchamel Sauce. Raised Pie. Ham, decorated. Shoulder of Lamb, stuffed. Two Roast Fowls. Mayonnaise of Salmon. Epergne, with Flowers. Mayonnaise of Trout. Tongue, garnished. Boiled Fowls and Béchamel Sauce. Collared Eel.
[Column 4] Veal-and-Ham Pie. Lobster Salad. Savoy Cake. Dish of Lobster, cut up. Lobster Salad. Boar's Head. Pigeon Pie. Lobster Salad. Dish of Lobster, cut up. Lobster Salad. Charlotte Russe à la Vanille. Veal and Ham Pie. Dish of Lobster, cut up.
Note.—The length of the page will not admit of our giving the dishes as they should be placed on the table; they should be arranged with the large and high dishes down the centre, and the spaces filled up with the smaller dishes, fruit, and flowers, taking care that the flavours and colours contrast nicely, and that no two dishes of a sort come together. This bill of fare may be made to answer three or four purposes, placing a wedding cake or christening cake in the centre on a high stand, if required for either of these occasions. A few dishes of fowls, lobster salads, &c. &c., should be kept in reserve to replenish those that are most likely to be eaten first. A joint of cold roast and boiled beef should be placed on the buffet, as being something substantial for the gentlemen of the party to partake of. Besides the articles enumerated in the bill of fare, biscuits and wafers will be required, cream-and-water ices, tea, coffee, wines, liqueurs, soda-water, ginger-beer, and lemonade.
BREAKFASTS.
2144. It will not be necessary to give here a long bill of fare of cold joints, &c., which may be placed on the side-board, and do duty at the breakfast-table. Suffice it to say, that any cold meat the larder may furnish, should be nicely garnished, and be placed on the buffet. Collared and potted meats or fish, cold game or poultry, veal-and-ham pies, game-and-Rump-steak pies, are all suitable dishes for the breakfast-table; as also cold ham, tongue, &c. &c.
2145. The following list of hot dishes may perhaps assist our readers in knowing what to provide for the comfortable meal called breakfast. Broiled fish, such as mackerel, whiting, herrings, dried haddocks, &c.; mutton chops and rump-steaks, broiled sheep's kidneys, kidneys à la maître d'hôtel, sausages, plain rashers of bacon, bacon and poached eggs, ham and poached eggs, omelets, plain boiled eggs, oeufs-au-plat, poached eggs on toast, muffins, toast, marmalade, butter, &c. &c.
2146. In the summer, and when they are obtainable, always have a vase of freshly-gathered flowers on the breakfast-table, and, when convenient, a nicely-arranged dish of fruit: when strawberries are in season, these are particularly refreshing; as also grapes, or even currants.
LUNCHEONS AND SUPPERS.
2147. The remains of cold joints, nicely garnished, a few sweets, or a little hashed meat, poultry or game, are the usual articles placed on the table for luncheon, with bread and cheese, biscuits, butter, &c. If a substantial meal is desired, rump-steaks or mutton chops may he served, as also veal cutlets, kidneys, or any dish of that kind. In families where there is a nursery, the mistress of the house often partakes of the meal with the children, and makes it her luncheon. In the summer, a few dishes of fresh fruit should be added to the luncheon, or, instead of this, a compote of fruit or fruit tart, or pudding.
2148. Of suppers we have little to say, as we have already given two bills of fare for a large party, which will answer very well for a smaller number, by reducing the quantity of dishes and by omitting a few. Hot suppers are now very little in request, as people now generally dine at an hour which precludes the possibility of requiring supper; at all events, not one of a substantial kind. Should, however, a bill of fare be required, one of those under the head of DINNERS, with slight alterations, will be found to answer for a hot supper.
BILL OF FARE FOR A PICNIC FOR 40 PERSONS.
2149. A joint of cold roast beef, a joint of cold boiled beef, 2 ribs of lamb, 2 shoulders of lamb, 4 roast fowls, 2 roast ducks, 1 ham, 1 tongue, 2 veal-and-ham pies, 2 pigeon pies, 6 medium-sized lobsters, 1 piece of collared calf's head, 18 lettuces, 6 baskets of salad, 6 cucumbers.
2150. Stewed fruit well sweetened, and put into glass bottles well corked; 3 or 4 dozen plain pastry biscuits to eat with the stewed fruit, 2 dozen fruit turnovers, 4 dozen cheesecakes, 2 cold cabinet puddings in moulds, 2 blancmanges in moulds, a few jam puffs, 1 large cold plum-pudding (this must be good), a few baskets of fresh fruit, 3 dozen plain biscuits, a piece of cheese, 6 lbs. of butter (this, of course, includes the butter for tea), 4 quartern loaves of household broad, 3 dozen rolls, 6 loaves of tin bread (for tea), 2 plain plum cakes, 2 pound cakes, 2 sponge cakes, a tin of mixed biscuits, 1/2 lb, of tea. Coffee is not suitable for a picnic, being difficult to make.
Things not to be forgotten at a Picnic.
2151. A stick of horseradish, a bottle of mint-sauce well corked, a bottle of salad dressing, a bottle of vinegar, made mustard, pepper, salt, good oil, and pounded sugar. If it can be managed, take a little ice. It is scarcely necessary to say that plates, tumblers, wine-glasses, knives, forks, and spoons, must not be forgotten; as also teacups and saucers, 3 or 4 teapots, some lump sugar, and milk, if this last-named article cannot be obtained in the neighbourhood. Take 3 corkscrews.
2152. Beverages.—3 dozen quart bottles of ale, packed in hampers; ginger-beer, soda-water, and lemonade, of each 2 dozen bottles; 6 bottles of sherry, 6 bottles of claret, champagne à discrétion, and any other light wine that may be preferred, and 2 bottles of brandy. Water can usually be obtained so it is useless to take it.
DOMESTIC SERVANTS.
CHAPTER XLI.
2153. It is the custom of "Society" to abuse its servants,—a façon de parler, such as leads their lords and masters to talk of the weather, and, when rurally inclined, of the crops,—leads matronly ladies, and ladies just entering on their probation in that honoured and honourable state, to talk of servants, and, as we are told, wax eloquent over the greatest plague in life while taking a quiet cup of tea. Young men at their clubs, also, we are told, like to abuse their "fellows," perhaps not without a certain pride and pleasure at the opportunity of intimating that they enjoy such appendages to their state. It is another conviction of "Society" that the race of good servants has died out, at least in England, although they do order these things better in France; that there is neither honesty, conscientiousness, nor the careful and industrious habits which distinguished the servants of our grandmothers and great-grandmothers; that domestics no longer know their place; that the introduction of cheap silks and cottons, and, still more recently, those ambiguous "materials" and tweeds, have removed the landmarks between the mistress and her maid, between the master and his man.
2154. When the distinction really depends on things so insignificant, this is very probably the case; when the lady of fashion chooses her footman without any other consideration than his height, shape, and tournure of his calf, it is not surprising that she should find a domestic who has no attachment for the family, who considers the figure he cuts behind her carriage, and the late hours he is compelled to keep, a full compensation for the wages he exacts, for the food he wastes, and for the perquisites he can lay his hands on. Nor should the fast young man, who chooses his groom for his knowingness in the ways of the turf and in the tricks of low horse-dealers, be surprised if he is sometimes the victim of these learned ways. But these are the exceptional cases, which prove the existence of a better state of things. The great masses of society among us are not thus deserted; there are few families of respectability, from the shopkeeper in the next street to the nobleman whose mansion dignifies the next square, which do not contain among their dependents attached and useful servants; and where these are absent altogether, there are good reasons for it. The sensible master and the kind mistress know, that if servants depend on them for their means of living, in their turn they are dependent on their servants for very many of the comforts of life; and that, with a proper amount of care in choosing servants, and treating them like reasonable beings, and making slight excuses for the shortcomings of human nature, they will, save in some exceptional case, be tolerably well served, and, in most instances, surround themselves with attached domestics.
2155. This remark, which is applicable to all domestics, is especially so to men-servants. Families accustomed to such attendants have always about them humble dependents, whose children have no other prospect than domestic service to look forward to; to them it presents no degradation, but the reverse, to be so employed; they are initiated step by step into the mysteries of the household, with the prospect of rising in the service, if it is a house admitting of promotion,—to the respectable position of butler or house-steward. In families of humbler pretensions, where they must look for promotion elsewhere, they know that can only be attained by acquiring the goodwill of their employers. Can there be any stronger security for their good conduct,—any doubt that, in the mass of domestic servants, good conduct is the rule, the reverse the exception?
2156. The number of the male domestics in a family varies according to the wealth and position of the master, from the owner of the ducal mansion, with a retinue of attendants, at the head of which is the chamberlain and house-steward, to the occupier of the humbler house, where a single footman, or even the odd man-of-all-work, is the only male retainer. The majority of gentlemen's establishments probably comprise a servant out of livery, or butler, a footman, and coachman, or coachman and groom, where the horses exceed two or three.
DUTIES OF THE BUTLER.
2157. The domestic duties of the butler are to bring in the eatables at breakfast, and wait upon the family at that meal, assisted by the footman, and see to the cleanliness of everything at table. On taking away, he removes the tray with the china and plate, for which he is responsible. At luncheon, he arranges the meal, and waits unassisted, the footman being now engaged in other duties. At dinner, he places the silver and plated articles on the table, sees that everything is in its place, and rectifies what is wrong. He carries in the first dish, and announces in the drawing-room that dinner is on the table, and respectfully stands by the door until the company are seated, when he takes his place behind his master's chair on the left, to remove the covers, handing them to the other attendants to carry out. After the first course of plates is supplied, his place is at the sideboard to serve the wines, but only when called on.
2158. The first course ended, he rings the cook's bell, and hands the dishes from the table to the other servants to carry away, receiving from them the second course, which he places on the table, removing the covers as before, and again taking his place at the sideboard.
2159. At dessert, the slips being removed, the butler receives the dessert from the other servants, and arranges it on the table, with plates and glasses, and then takes his place behind his master's chair to hand the wines and ices, while the footman stands behind his mistress for the same purpose, the other attendants leaving the room. Where the old-fashioned practice of having the dessert on the polished table, without any cloth, is still adhered to, the butler should rub off any marks made by the hot dishes before arranging the dessert.
2160. Before dinner, he has satisfied himself that the lamps, candles, or gas-burners are in perfect order, if not lighted, which will usually be the case. Having served every one with their share of the dessert, put the fires in order (when these are used), and seen the lights are all right, at a signal from his master, he and the footman leave the room.
2161. He now proceeds to the drawing-room, arranges the fireplace, and sees to the lights; he then returns to his pantry, prepared to answer the bell, and attend to the company, while the footman is clearing away and cleaning the plate and glasses.
2162. At tea he again attends. At bedtime he appears with the candles; he locks up the plate, secures doors and windows, and sees that all the fires are safe.
2163. In addition to these duties, the butler, where only one footman is kept, will be required to perform some of the duties of the valet, to pay bills, and superintend the other servants. But the real duties of the butler are in the wine-cellar; there he should be competent to advise his master as to the price and quality of the wine to be laid in; "fine," bottle, cork, and seal it, and place it in the binns. Brewing, racking, and bottling malt liquors, belong to his office, as well as their distribution. These and other drinkables are brought from the cellar every day by his own hands, except where an under-butler is kept; and a careful entry of every bottle used, entered in the cellar-book; so that the book should always show the contents of the cellar.
2164. The office of butler is thus one of very great trust in a household. Here, as elsewhere, honesty is the best policy: the butler should make it his business to understand the proper treatment of the different wines under his charge, which he can easily do from the wine-merchant, and faithfully attend to it; his own reputation will soon compensate for the absence of bribes from unprincipled wine-merchants, if he serves a generous and hospitable master. Nothing spreads more rapidly in society than the reputation of a good wine-cellar, and all that is required is wines well chosen and well cared for; and this a little knowledge, carefully applied, will soon supply.
2165. The butler, we have said, has charge of the contents of the cellars, and it is his duty to keep them in a proper condition, to fine down wine in wood, bottle it off, and store it away in places suited to the sorts. Where wine comes into the cellar ready bottled, it is usual to return the same number of empty bottles; the butler has not, in this case, the same inducements to keep the bottles of the different sorts separated; but where the wine is bottled in the house, he will find his account, not only in keeping them separate, but in rinsing them well, and even washing them with clean water as soon as they are empty.
2166. There are various modes of fining wine: isinglass, gelatine, and gum Arabic are all used for the purpose. Whichever of these articles is used, the process is always the same. Supposing eggs (the cheapest) to be used,—Draw a gallon or so of the wine, and mix one quart of it with the whites of four eggs, by stirring it with a whisk; afterwards, when thoroughly mixed, pour it back into the cask through the bunghole, and stir up the whole cask, in a rotatory direction, with a clean split stick inserted through the bunghole. Having stirred it sufficiently, pour in the remainder of the wine drawn off, until the cask is full; then stir again, skimming off the bubbles that rise to the surface. When thoroughly mixed by stirring, close the bunghole, and leave it to stand for three or four days. This quantity of clarified wine will fine thirteen dozen of port or sherry. The other clearing ingredients are applied in the same manner, the material being cut into small pieces, and dissolved in the quart of wine, and the cask stirred in the same manner.
2167. To Bottle Wine.—Having thoroughly washed and dried the bottles, supposing they have been before used for the same kind of wine, provide corks, which will be improved by being slightly boiled, or at least steeped in hot water,—a wooden hammer or mallet, a bottling-boot, and a squeezer for the corks. Bore a hole in the lower part of the cask with a gimlet, receiving the liquid stream which follows in the bottle and filterer, which is placed in a tub or basin. This operation is best performed by two persons, one to draw the wine, the other to cork the bottles. The drawer is to see that the bottles are up to the mark, but not too full, the bottle being placed in a clean tub to prevent waste. The corking-boot is buckled by a strap to the knee, the bottle placed in it, and the cork, after being squeezed in the press, driven in by a flat wooden mallet.
2168. As the wine draws near to the bottom of the cask, a thick piece of muslin is placed in the strainer, to prevent the viscous grounds from passing into the bottle.
2169. Having carefully counted the bottles, they are stored away in their respective binns, a layer of sand or sawdust being placed under the first tier, and another over it; a second tier is laid over this, protected by a lath, the head of the second being laid to the bottom of the first; over this another bed of sawdust is laid, not too thick, another lath; and so on till the binn is filled.
2170. Wine so laid in will be ready for use according to its quality and age. Port wine, old in the wood, will be ready to drink in five or six months; but if it is a fruity wine, it will improve every year. Sherry, if of good quality, will be fit to drink as soon as the "sickness" (as its first condition after bottling is called) ceases, and will also improve; but the cellar must be kept at a perfectly steady temperature, neither too hot nor too cold, but about 55° or 60°, and absolutely free from draughts of cold air.
DUTIES OF THE FOOTMAN.
2171. Where a single footman, or odd man, is the only male servant, then, whatever his ostensible position, he is required to make himself generally useful. He has to clean the knives and shoes, the furniture, the plate; answer the visitors who call, the drawing-room and parlour bells; and do all the errands. His life is no sinecure; and a methodical arrangement of his time will be necessary, in order to perform his many duties with any satisfaction to himself or his master.
2172. The footman only finds himself in stockings, shoes, and washing. Where silk stockings, or other extra articles of linen are worn, they are found by the family, as well as his livery, a working dress, consisting of a pair of overalls, a waistcoat, a fustian jacket, with a white or jean one for times when he is liable to be called to answer the door or wait at breakfast; and, on quitting his service, he is expected to leave behind him any livery had within six months.
2173. The footman is expected to rise early, in order to get through all his dirty work before the family are stirring. Boots and shoes, and knives and forks, should be cleaned, lamps in use trimmed, his master's clothes brushed, the furniture rubbed over; so that he may put aside his working dress, tidy himself, and appear in a clean jean jacket to lay the cloth and prepare breakfast for the family.
2174. We need hardly dwell on the boot-cleaning process: three good brushes and good blacking must be provided; one of the brushes hard, to brush off the mud; the other soft, to lay on the blacking; the third of a medium hardness, for polishing; and each should be kept for its particular use. The blacking should be kept corked up, except when in use, and applied to the brush with a sponge tied to a stick, which, when put away, rests in a notch cut in the cork. When boots come in very muddy, it is a good practice to wash off the mud, and wipe them dry with a sponge; then leave them to dry very gradually on their sides, taking care they are not placed near the fire, or scorched. Much delicacy of treatment is required in cleaning ladies' boots, so as to make the leather look well-polished, and the upper part retain a fresh appearance, with the lining free from hand-marks, which are very offensive to a lady of refined tastes.
2175. Patent leather boots require to be wiped with a wet sponge, and afterwards with a soft dry cloth, and occasionally with a soft cloth and sweet oil, blacking and polishing the edge of the soles in the usual way, but so as not to cover the patent polish with blacking. A little milk may also be used with very good effect for patent leather boots.
2176. Top boots are still occasionally worn by gentlemen. While cleaning the lower part in the usual manner, protect the tops, by inserting a cloth or brown paper under the edges and bringing it over them. In cleaning the tops, let the covering fall down over the boot; wash the tops clean with soap and flannel, and rub out any spots with pumice-stone. If the tops are to be whiter, dissolve an ounce of oxalic acid and half an ounce of pumice-stone in a pint of soft water; if a brown colour is intended, mix an ounce of muriatic acid, half an ounce of alum, half an ounce of gum Arabic, and half an ounce of spirit of lavender, in a pint and a half of skimmed milk "turned." These mixtures apply by means of a sponge, and polish, when dry, with a rubber made of soft flannel.
2177. Knives are now generally cleaned by means of Kent's or Masters's machine, which gives very little trouble, and is very effective; before, however, putting the knives into the machine, it is highly necessary that they be first washed in a little warm (not hot) water, and then thoroughly wiped: if put into the machine with any grease on them, it adheres to the brushes, and consequently renders them unfit to use for the next knives that may be put in. When this precaution is not taken, the machine must come to pieces, so causing an immense amount of trouble, which may all be avoided by having the knives thoroughly free from grease before using the machine. Brushes are also used for cleaning forks, which facilitate the operation. When knives are so cleaned, see that they are carefully polished, wiped, and with a good edge, the ferules and prongs free from dirt, and place them in the basket with the handles all one way.
2178. Lamp-trimming requires a thorough acquaintance with the mechanism; after that, constant attention to cleanliness, and an occasional entire clearing out with hot water: when this is done, all the parts should be carefully dried before filling again with oil. When lacquered, wipe the lacquered parts with a soft brush and cloth, and wash occasionally with weak soapsuds, wiping carefully afterwards. Brass lamps may be cleaned with oil and rottenstone every day when trimmed. With bronze, and other ornamental lamps, more care will be required, and soft flannel and oil only used, to prevent the removal of the bronze or enamel. Brass-work, or any metal-work not lacquered, is cleaned by a little oil and rottenstone made into a paste, or with fine emery-powder and oil mixed in the same manner. A small portion of sal ammoniac, beat into a fine powder and moistened with soft water, rubbed over brass ornaments, and heated over a charcoal fire, and rubbed dry with bran or whitening, will give to brass-work the brilliancy of gold. In trimming moderator lamps, let the wick be cut evenly all round; as, if left higher in one place than it is in another, it will cause it to smoke and burn badly. The lamp should then be filled with oil from a feeder, and afterwards well wiped with a cloth or rag kept for the purpose. If it can be avoided, never wash the chimneys of a lamp, as it causes them to crack when they become hot. Small sticks, covered with wash-leather pads, are the best things to use for cleaning the glasses inside, and a clean duster for polishing the outside. The globe of a moderator lamp should be occasionally washed in warm soap-and-water, then well rinsed in cold water, and either wiped dry or left to drain. Where candle-lamps are used, take out the springs occasionally, and free them well from the grease that adheres to them.
2179. French polish, so universally applied to furniture, is easily kept in condition by dusting and rubbing with a soft cloth, or a rubber of old silk; but dining-tables can only be kept in order by hard rubbing, or rather by quick rubbing, which warms the wood and removes all spots.
2180. Brushing clothes is a very simple but very necessary operation. Fine cloths require to be brushed lightly, and with rather a soft brush, except where mud is to be removed, when a hard one is necessary, being previously beaten lightly to dislodge the dirt. Lay the garment on a table, and brush it in the direction of the nap. Having brushed it properly, turn the sleeves back to the collar, so that the folds may come at the elbow-joints; next turn the lappels or sides back over the folded sleeves; then lay the skirts over level with the collar, so that the crease may fall about the centre, and double one half over the other, so as the fold comes in the centre of the back.
2181. Having got through his dirty work, the single footman has now to clean himself and prepare the breakfast. He lays the cloth on the table; over it the breakfast-cloth, and sets the breakfast things in order, and then proceeds to wait upon his master, if he has any of the duties of a valet to perform.
2182. Where a valet is not kept, a portion of his duties falls to the footman's share,—brushing the clothes among others. When the hat is silk, it requires brushing every day with a soft brush; after rain, it requires wiping the way of the nap before drying, and, when nearly dry, brushing with the soft brush and with the hat-stick in it. If the footman is required to perform any part of a valet's duties, he will have to see that the housemaid lights a fire in the dressing-room in due time; that the room is dusted and cleaned; that the washhand-ewer is filled with soft water; and that the bath, whether hot or cold, is ready when required; that towels are at hand; that hair-brushes and combs are properly cleansed, and in their places; that hot water is ready at the hour ordered; the dressing-gown and slippers in their place, the clean linen aired, and the clothes to be worn for the day in their proper places. After the master has dressed, it will be the footman's duty to restore everything to its place properly cleansed and dry, and the whole restored to order.
2183. At breakfast, when there is no butler, the footman carries up the tea-urn, and, assisted by the housemaid, he waits during breakfast. Breakfast over, he removes the tray and other things off the table, folds up the breakfast-cloth, and sets the room in order, by sweeping up all crumbs, shaking the cloth, and laying it on the table again, making up the fire, and sweeping up the hearth.
2184. At luncheon-time nearly the same routine is observed, except where the footman is either out with the carriage or away on other business, when, in the absence of any butler, the housemaid must assist.
2185. For dinner, the footman lays the cloth, taking care that the table is not too near the fire, if there is one, and that passage-room is left. A tablecloth should be laid without a wrinkle; and this requires two persons: over this the slips are laid, which are usually removed preparatory to placing dessert on the table. He prepares knives, forks, and glasses, with five or six plates for each person. This done, he places chairs enough for the party, distributing them equally on each side of the table, and opposite to each a napkin neatly folded, within it a piece of bread or small roll, and a knife on the right side of each plate, a fork on the left, and a carving-knife and fork at the top and bottom of the table, outside the others, with the rests opposite to them, and a gravy-spoon beside the knife. The fish-slice should be at the top, where the lady of the house, with the assistance of the gentleman next to her, divides the fish, and the soup-ladle at the bottom: it is sometimes usual to add a dessert-knife and fork; at the same time, on the right side also of each plate, put a wine-glass for as many kinds of wine as it is intended to hand round, and a finger-glass or glass-cooler about four inches from the edge. The latter are frequently put on the table with the dessert.
2186. About half an hour before dinner, he rings the dinner-bell, where that is the practice, and occupies himself with carrying up everything he is likely to require. At the expiration of the time, having communicated with the cook, he rings the real dinner-bell, and proceeds to take it up with such assistance as he can obtain. Having ascertained that all is in order, that his own dress is clean and presentable, and his white cotton gloves are without a stain, he announces in the drawing-room that dinner is served, and stands respectfully by the door until the company are seated: he places himself on the left, behind his master, who is to distribute the soup; where soup and fish are served together, his place will be at his mistress's left hand; but he must be on the alert to see that whoever is assisting him, whether male or female, are at their posts. If any of the guests has brought his own servant with him, his place is behind his master's chair, rendering such assistance to others as he can, while attending to his master's wants throughout the dinner, so that every guest has what he requires. This necessitates both activity and intelligence, and should be done without bustle, without asking any questions, except where it is the custom of the house to hand round dishes or wine, when it will be necessary to mention, in a quiet and unobtrusive manner, the dish or wine you present.
2187. Salt-cellars should be placed on the table in number sufficient for the guests, so that each may help themselves, or, at least, their immediate neighbours.
DINNERS À LA RUSSE.
2188. In some houses the table is laid out with plate and glass, and ornamented with flowers, the dessert only being placed on the table, the dinner itself being placed on the sideboard, and handed round in succession, in courses of soup, fish, entries, meat, game, and sweets. This is not only elegant but economical, as fewer dishes are required, the symmetry of the table being made up with the ornaments and dessert. The various dishes are also handed round when hot; but it involves additional and superior attendance, as the wines are also handed round; and unless the servants are very active and intelligent, many blunders are likely to be made. (See p. 954.)
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.
2189. While attentive to all, the footman should be obtrusive to none; he should give nothing but on a waiter, and always hand it with the left hand and on the left side of the person he serves, and hold it so that the guest may take it with ease. In lifting dishes from the table, he should use both hands, and remove them with care, so that nothing is spilt on the table-cloth or on the dresses of the guests.
2190. Masters as well as servants sometimes make mistakes; but it is not expected that a servant will correct any omissions, even if he should have time to notice them, although with the best intentions: thus it would not be correct, for instance, if he observed that his master took wine with the ladies all round, as some gentlemen still continue to do, but stopped at some one:—to nudge him on the shoulder and say, as was done by the servant of a Scottish gentleman, "What ails you at her in the green gown?" It will be better to leave the lady unnoticed than for the servant thus to turn his master into ridicule.
2191. During dinner each person's knife, fork, plate, and spoon should be changed as soon as he has done with it; the vegetables and sauces belonging to the different dishes presented without remark to the guests; and the footman should tread lightly in moving round, and, if possible, should bear in mind, if there is a wit or humorist of the party, whose good things keep the table in a roar, that they are not expected to reach his ears.
2192. In opening wine, let it be done quietly, and without shaking the bottle; if crusted, let it be inclined to the crusted side, and decanted while in that position. In opening champagne, it is not necessary to discharge it with a pop; properly cooled, the cork is easily extracted without an explosion; when the cork is out, the mouth of the bottle should be wiped with the napkin over the footman's arm.
2193. At the end of the first course, notice is conveyed to the cook, who is waiting to send up the second, which is introduced in the same way as before; the attendants who remove the fragments, carrying the dishes from the kitchen, and handing them to the footman or butler, whose duty it is to arrange them on the table. After dinner, the dessert-glasses and wines are placed on the table by the footman, who places himself behind his master's chair, to supply wine and hand round the ices and other refreshments, all other servants leaving the room.
2194. As soon as the drawing-room bell rings for tea, the footman enters with the tray, which has been previously prepared; hands the tray round to the company, with cream and sugar, the tea and coffee being generally poured out, while another attendant hands cakes, toast, or biscuits. If it is an ordinary family party, where this social meal is prepared by the mistress, he carries the urn or kettle, as the case may be; hands round the toast, or such other eatable as may be required, removing the whole in the same manner when tea is over.
2195. After each meal, the footman's place is in his pantry: here perfect order should prevail—a place for everything and everything in its place. A sink, with hot and cold water laid on, is very desirable,—cold absolutely necessary. Wooden bowls or tubs of sufficient capacity are required, one for hot and another for cold water. Have the bowl three parts full of clean hot water; in this wash all plate and plated articles which are greasy, wiping them before cleaning with the brush.
2196. The footman in small families, where only one man is kept, has many of the duties of the upper servants to perform as well as his own, and more constant occupation; he will also have the arrangement of his time more immediately under his own control, and he will do well to reduce it to a methodical division. All his rough work should be done before breakfast is ready, when he must appear clean, and in a presentable state. After breakfast, when everything belonging to his pantry is cleaned and put in its place, the furniture in the dining and drawing rooms requires rubbing. Towards noon, the parlour luncheon is to be prepared; and he must be at his mistress's disposal to go out with the carriage, or follow her if she walks out.
2197. Glass is a beautiful and most fragile article: hence it requires great care in washing. A perfectly clean wooden bowl is best for this operation, one for moderately hot and another for cold water. Wash the glasses well in the first and rinse them in the second, and turn them down on a linen cloth folded two or three times, to drain for a few minutes. When sufficiently drained, wipe them with a cloth and polish with a finer one, doing so tenderly and carefully. Accidents will happen; but nothing discredits a servant in the drawing-room more than continual reports of breakages, which, of course, must reach that region.
2198. Decanters and water-jugs require still more tender treatment in cleaning, inasmuch as they are more costly to replace. Fill them about two-thirds with hot but not boiling water, and put in a few pieces of well-soaped brown paper; leave them thus for two or three hours; then shake the water up and down in the decanters; empty this out, rinse them well with clean cold water, and put them in a rack to drain. When dry, polish them outside and inside, as far as possible, with a fine cloth. To remove the crust of port or other wines, add a little muriatic acid to the water, and let it remain for some time.
2199. When required to go out with the carriage, it is the footman's duty to see that it has come to the door perfectly clean, and that the glasses, and sashes, and linings, are free from dust. In receiving messages at the carriage door, he should turn his ear to the speaker, so as to comprehend what is said, in order that he may give his directions to the coachman clearly. When the house he is to call at is reached, he should knock, and return to the carriage for orders. In closing the door upon the family, he should see that the handle is securely turned, and that no part of the ladies' dress is shut in.
2200. It is the footman's duty to carry messages or letters for his master or mistress to their friends, to the post, or to the tradespeople; and nothing is more important than dispatch and exactness in doing so, although writing even the simplest message is now the ordinary and very proper practice. Dean Swift, among his other quaint directions, all of which are to be read by contraries, recommends a perusal of all such epistles, in order that you may be the more able to fulfil your duty to your master. An old lady of Forfarshire had one of those odd old Caleb Balderston sort of servants, who construed the Dean of St. Patrick more literally. On one occasion, when dispatch was of some importance, knowing his inquiring nature, she called her Scotch Paul Pry to her, opened the note, and read it to him herself, saying, "Now, Andrew, you ken a' aboot it, and needna' stop to open and read it, but just take it at once." Probably most of the notes you are expected to carry might, with equal harmlessness, be communicated to you; but it will be better not to take so lively an interest in your mistress's affairs.
2201. Politeness and civility to visitors is one of the things masters and mistresses have a right to expect, and should exact rigorously. When visitors present themselves, the servant charged with the duty of opening the door will open it promptly, and answer, without hesitation, if the family are "not at home," or "engaged;" which generally means the same thing, and might be oftener used with advantage to morals. On the contrary, if he has no such orders, he will answer affirmatively, open the door wide to admit them, and precede them to open the door of the drawing-room. If the family are not there, he will place chairs for them, open the blinds (if the room is too dark), and intimate civilly that he goes to inform his mistress. If the lady is in her drawing-room, he announces the name of the visitors, having previously acquainted himself with it. In this part of his duty it is necessary to be very careful to repeat the names correctly; mispronouncing names is very apt to give offence, and leads sometimes to other disagreeables. The writer was once initiated into some of the secrets on the "other side" of a legal affair in which he took an interest, before he could correct a mistake made by the servant in announcing him. When the visitor is departing, the servant should be at hand, ready, when rung for, to open the door; he should open it with a respectful manner, and close it gently when the visitors are fairly beyond the threshold. When several visitors arrive together, he should take care not to mix up the different names together, where they belong to the same family, as Mr., Mrs., and Miss; if they are strangers, he should announce each as distinctly as possible.
2202. Receptions and Evening Parties.—The drawing-rooms being prepared, the card-tables laid out with cards and counters, and such other arrangements as are necessary made for the reception of the company, the rooms should be lighted up as the hour appointed approaches. Attendants in the drawing-room, even more than in the dining-room, should move about actively but noiselessly; no creaking of shoes, which is an abomination; watching the lights from time to time, so as to keep up their brilliancy. But even if the attendant likes a game of cribbage or whist himself, he must not interfere in his master or mistress's game, nor even seem to take an interest in it. We once knew a lady who had a footman, and both were fond of a game of cribbage,—John in the kitchen, the lady in her drawing-room. The lady was a giver of evening parties, where she frequently enjoyed her favourite amusement. While handing about the tea and toast, John could not always suppress his disgust at her mistakes. "There is more in that hand, ma'am," he has been known to say; or, "Ma'am, you forgot to count his nob;" in fact, he identified himself with his mistress's game, and would have lost twenty places rather than witness a miscount. It is not necessary to adopt his example on this point, although John had many qualities a good servant might copy with advantage.
THE COACHHOUSE AND STABLES.
2203. THE HORSE is the noblest of quadrupeds, whether we view him in his strength, his sagacity, or his beauty. He is also the most useful to man of all the animal creation; but his delicacy is equal to his power and usefulness. No other animal, probably, is so dependent on man in the state of domestication to which he has been reduced, or deteriorates so rapidly under exposure, bad feeding, or bad grooming. It is, therefore, a point of humanity, not to speak of its obvious impolicy, for the owner of horses to overlook any neglect in their feeding or grooming. His interest dictates that so valuable an animal should be well housed, well fed, and well groomed; and he will do well to acquire so much of stable lore as will enable him to judge of these points himself. In a general way, where a horse's coat is habitually rough and untidy, there is a sad want of elbow-grease in the stable. When a horse of tolerable breeding is dull and spiritless, he is getting ill or badly fed; and where he is observed to perspire much in the stables, is overfed, and probably eats his litter in addition to his regular supply of food.
2204. Stables.—The architectural form of the stables will be subject to other influences than ours; we confine ourselves, therefore, to their internal arrangements. They should be roomy in proportion to the number of stalls; warm, with good ventilation, and perfectly free from cold draughts; the stalls roomy, without excess, with good and well-trapped drainage, so as to exclude bad smells; a sound ceiling to prevent the entrance of dust from the hayloft, which is usually above them; and there should be plenty of light, coming, however, either from above or behind, so as not to glare in the horse's eye.
2205. Heat.—The first of these objects is attained, if the stables are kept within a degree or two of 50° in winter, and 60° in summer; although some grooms insist on a much higher temperature, in the interests of their own labour.
2206. Ventilation is usually attained by the insertion of one or more tubes or boxes of wood or iron through the ceiling and the roof, with a sloping covering over the opening, to keep out rain, and valves or ventilators below to regulate the atmosphere, with openings in the walls for the admission of fresh air: this is still a difficulty, however; for the effluvium of the stable is difficult to dispel, and draughts must be avoided. This is sometimes accomplished by means of hollow walls with gratings at the bottom outside, for the exit of bad air, which is carried down through the hollow walls and discharged at the bottom, while, for the admission of fresh air, the reverse takes place: the fresh by this means gets diffused and heated before it is discharged into the stable.
2207. The Stalls should be divided by partitions of wood-work eight or nine feet high at the head and six at the heels, and nine feet deep, so as to separate each horse from its neighbour. A hay-rack placed within easy reach of the horse, of wood or iron, occupies either a corner or the whole breadth of the stall, which should be about six feet for on ordinary-sized horse. A manger, formerly of wood, but of late years more generally of iron lined with enamel, occupies a corner of the stall. The pavement of the stall should be nearly level, with a slight incline towards the gutter, to keep the bed dry, paved with hard Dutch brick laid on edge, or asphalte, or smithy clinkers, or rubble-stones, laid in strong cement. In the centre, about five feet from the wall, a grating should be firmly fixed in the pavement, and in communication with a well-trapped drain to carry off the water; the gutter outside the stall should also communicate with the drains by trapped openings. The passage between the stall and the hall should be from five to six feet broad at least; on the wall, opposite to each stall, pegs should be placed for receiving the harness and other things in daily use.
2208. A Harness-room is indispensable to every stable. It should be dry and airy, and furnished with a fireplace and boiler, both for the protection of the harness and to prepare mashes for the horses when required. The partition-wall should be boarded where the harness goes, with pegs to hang the various pieces of harness on, with saddle-trees to rest the saddles on, a cupboard for the brushes, sponges, and leathers, and a lock-up corn-bin.
2209. The furniture of a stable with coachhouse, consists of coach-mops, jacks for raising the wheels, horse-brushes, spoke-brushes, water-brushes, crest and bit-brushes, dandy-brushes, currycombs, birch and heath brooms, trimming-combs, scissors and pickers, oil-cans and brushes, harness-brushes of three sorts, leathers, sponges for horse and carriage, stable-forks, dung-baskets or wheelbarrow, corn-sieves and measures, horse-cloths and stable pails, horn or glass lanterns. Over the stables there should be accommodation for the coachman or groom to sleep. Accidents sometimes occur, and he should be at hand to interfere.
DUTIES OF THE COACHMAN, GROOM, AND STABLE-BOY.
2210. The Establishment we have in view will consist of coachman, groom, and stable-boy, who are capable of keeping in perfect order four horses, and perhaps the pony. Of this establishment the coachman is chief. Besides skill in driving, he should possess a good general knowledge of horses; he has usually to purchase provender, to see that the horses are regularly fed and properly groomed, watch over their condition, apply simple remedies to trifling ailments in the animals under his charge, and report where he observes symptoms of more serious ones which he does not understand. He has either to clean the carriage himself, or see that the stable-boy does it properly.
2211. The Groom's first duties are to keep his horses in condition; but he is sometimes expected to perform the duties of a valet, to ride out with his master, on occasions, to wait at table, and otherwise assist in the house: in these cases, he should have the means of dressing himself, and keeping his clothes entirely away from the stables. In the morning, about six o'clock, or rather before, the stables should be opened and cleaned out, and the horses fed, first by cleaning the rack and throwing in fresh hay, putting it lightly in the rack, that the horses may get it out easily; a short time afterwards their usual morning feed of oats should be put into the manger. While this is going on, the stable-boy has been removing the stable-dung, and sweeping and washing out the stables, both of which should be done every day, and every corner carefully swept, in order to keep the stable sweet and clean. The real duties of the groom follow: where the horses are not taken out for early exercise, the work of grooming immediately commences. "Having tied up the head," to use the excellent description of the process given by old Barrett, "take a currycomb and curry him all over the body, to raise the dust, beginning first at the neck, holding the left cheek of the headstall in the left hand, and curry him from the setting-on of his head all over the body to the buttocks, down to the point of the hock; then change your hands, and curry him before, on his breast, and, laying your right arm over his back, join your right side to his left, and curry him all under the belly near the fore-bowels, and so all over from the knees and back upwards; after that, go to the far side and do that likewise. Then take a dead horse's tail, or, failing that, a cotton dusting-cloth, and strike that away which the currycomb hath raised. Then take a round brush made of bristles, with a leathern handle, and dress him all over, both head, body, and legs, to the very fetlocks, always cleansing the brush from the dust by rubbing it with the currycomb. In the curry-combing process, as well as brushing, it must be applied with mildness, especially with fine-skinned horses; otherwise the tickling irritates them much. The brushing is succeeded by a hair-cloth, with which rub him all over again very hard, both to take away loose hairs and lay his coat; then wash your hands in fair water, and rub him all over while they are wet, as well over the head as the body. Lastly, take a clean cloth, and rub him all over again till he be dry; then take another hair-cloth, and rub all his legs exceeding well from the knees and hocks downwards to his hoofs, picking and dressing them very carefully about the fetlocks, so as to remove all gravel and dust which will sometimes lie in the bending of the joints." In addition to the practice of this old writer, modern grooms add wisping, which usually follows brushing. The best wisp is made from a hayband, untwisted, and again doubled up after being moistened with water: this is applied to every part of the body, as the brushing had been, by changing the hands, taking care in all these operations to carry the hand in the direction of the coat. Stains on the hair are removed by sponging, or, when the coat is very dirty, by the water-brush; the whole being finished off by a linen or flannel cloth. The horsecloth should now be put on by taking the cloth in both hands, with the outside next you, and, with your right hand to the off side, throw it over his back, placing it no farther back than will leave it straight and level, which will be about a foot from the tail. Put the roller round, and the pad-piece under it, about six or eight inches from the fore legs. The horse's head is now loosened; he is turned about in his stall to have his head and ears rubbed and brushed over every part, including throat, with the dusting-cloth, finishing by "pulling his ears," which all horses seem to enjoy very much. This done, the mane and foretop should be combed out, passing a wet sponge over them, sponging the mane on both sides, by throwing it back to the midriff, to make it lie smooth. The horse is now returned to his headstall, his tail combed out, cleaning it of stains with a wet brush or sponge, trimming both tail and mane, and forelock when necessary, smoothing them down with a brush on which a little oil has been dropped.
2212. Watering usually follows dressing; but some horses refuse their food until they have drunk: the groom should not, therefore, lay down exclusive rules on this subject, but study the temper and habits of his horse.
2213. Exercise.—All horses not in work require at least two hours' exercise daily; and in exercising them a good groom will put them through the paces to which they have been trained. In the case of saddle-horses he will walk, trot, canter, and gallop them, in order to keep them up to their work. With draught horses they ought to be kept up to a smart walk and trot.
2214. Feeding must depend on their work, but they require feeding three times a day, with more or less corn each time, according to their work. In the fast coaching days it was a saying among proprietors, that "his belly was the measure of his food;" but the horse's appetite is not to be taken as a criterion of the quantity of food under any circumstances. Horses have been known to consume 40 lbs. of hay in twenty-four hours, whereas 16 lbs. to 18 lbs. is the utmost which should have been given. Mr. Croall, an extensive coach proprietor in Scotland, limited his horses to 4-1/2 lbs. cut straw, 8 lbs. bruised oats, and 2-1/2 lbs. bruised beans, in the morning and noon, giving them at night 25 lbs. of the following; viz., 560 lbs. steamed potatoes, 36 lbs. barley-dust, 40 lbs. cut straw, and 6 lbs. salt, mixed up together: under this the horses did their work well. The ordinary measure given a horse is a peck of oats, about 40 lbs. to the bushel, twice a day, a third feed and a rack-full of hay, which may be about 15 lbs. or 18 lbs., when he is in full work.
2215. You cannot take up a paper without having the question put, "Do you bruise your oats?" Well, that depends on circumstances: a fresh young horse can bruise its own oats when it can get them; but aged horses, after a time, lose the power of masticating and bruising them, and bolt them whole; thus much impeding the work of digestion. For an old horse, then, bruise the oats; for a young one it does no harm and little good. Oats should be bright and dry, and not too new. Where they are new, sprinkle them with salt and water; otherwise, they overload the horse's stomach. Chopped straw mixed with oats, in the proportion of a third of straw or hay, is a good food for horses in full work; and carrots, of which horses are remarkably fond, have a perceptible effect in a short time on the gloss of the coat.
2216. The water given to a horse merits some attention; it should not be too cold; hard water is not to be recommended; stagnant or muddy water is positively injurious; river water is the best for all purposes; and anything is preferable to spring water, which should be exposed to the sun in summer for an hour or two, and stirred up before using it; a handful of oatmeal thrown into the pail will much improve its quality.
2217. Shoeing.—A horse should not be sent on a journey or any other hard work immediately after new shoeing;—the stiffness incidental to new shoes is not unlikely to bring him down. A day's rest, with reasonable exercise, will not be thrown away after this operation. On reaching home very hot, the groom should walk him about for a few minutes; this done, he should take off the moisture with the scraper, and afterwards wisp him over with a handful of straw and a flannel cloth: if the cloth is dipped in some spirit, all the better. He should wash, pick, and wipe dry the legs and feet, take off the bridle and crupper, and fasten it to the rack, then the girths, and put a wisp of straw under the saddle. When sufficiently cool, the horse should have some hay given him, and then a feed of oats: if he refuse the latter, offer him a little wet bran, or a handful of oatmeal in tepid water. When he has been fed, he should be thoroughly cleaned, and his body-clothes put on, and, if very much harassed with fatigue, a little good ale or wine will be well bestowed on a valuable horse, adding plenty of fresh litter under the belly.
2218. Bridles.—Every time a horse is unbridled, the bit should be carefully washed and dried, and the leather wiped, to keep them sweet, as well as the girths and saddle, the latter being carefully dried and beaten with a switch before it is again put on. In washing a horse's feet after a day's work, the master should insist upon the legs and feet being washed thoroughly with a sponge until the water flows over them, and then rubbed with a brush till quite dry.
2219. Harness, if not carefully preserved, very soon gets a shabby tarnished appearance. Where the coachman has a proper harness-room and sufficient assistance, this is inexcusable and easily prevented. The harness-room should have a wooden lining all round, and be perfectly dry and well ventilated. Around the walls, hooks and pegs should be placed, for the several pieces of harness, at such a height as to prevent their touching the ground; and every part of the harness should have its peg or hook,—one for the halters, another for the reins, and others for snaffles and other bits and metal-work; and either a wooden horse or saddle-trees for the saddles and pads. All these parts should be dry, clean, and shining. This is only to be done by careful cleaning and polishing, and the use of several requisite pastes. The metallic parts, when white, should be cleaned by a soft brush and plate-powder; the copper and brass parts burnished with rottenstone-powder and oil,—steel with emery-powder; both made into a paste with a little oil.
2220. An excellent paste for polishing harness and the leather-work of carriages, is made by melting 8 lbs. of yellow wax, stirring it till completely dissolved. Into this pour 1 lb. of litharge of the shops, which has been pounded up with water, and dried and sifted through a sieve, leaving the two, when mixed, to simmer on the fire, stirring them continually till all is melted. When it is a little cool, mix this with 1-1/4 lb. of good ivory-black; place this again on the fire, and stir till it boils anew, and suffer it to cool. When cooled a little, add distilled turpentine till it has the consistence of a thickish paste, scenting it with any essence at hand, thinning it when necessary from time to time, by adding distilled turpentine.
2221. When the leather is old and greasy, it should be cleaned before applying this polish, with a brush wetted in a weak solution of potass and water, washing afterwards with soft river water, and drying thoroughly. If the leather is not black, one or two coats of black ink may be given before applying the polish. When quite dry, the varnish should be laid on with a soft shoe-brush, using also a soft brush to polish the leather.
2222. When the leather is very old, it may be softened with fish-oil, and, after putting on the ink, a sponge charged with distilled turpentine passed over, to scour the surface of the leather, which should be polished as above.
2223. For fawn or yellow-coloured leather, take a quart of skimmed milk, pour into it 1 oz. of sulphuric acid, and, when cold, add to it 4 oz. of hydrochloric acid, shaking the bottle gently until it ceases to emit white vapours; separate the coagulated from the liquid part, by straining through a sieve, and store it away till required. In applying it, clean the leather by a weak solution of oxalic acid, washing it off immediately, and apply the composition when dry with a sponge.
2224. Wheel-grease is usually purchased at the shops; but a good paste is made as follows:—Melt 80 parts of grease, and stir into it, mixing it thoroughly and smoothly, 20 parts of fine black-lead in powder, and store away in a tin box for use. This grease is used in the mint at Paris, and is highly approved.
2225. Carriages in an endless variety of shapes and names are continually making their appearance; but the hackney cab or clarence seems most in request for light carriages; the family carriage of the day being a modified form of the clarence adapted for family use. The carriage is a valuable piece of furniture, requiring all the care of the most delicate upholstery, with the additional disadvantage of continual exposure to the weather and to the muddy streets.
2216. It requires, therefore, to be carefully cleaned before putting away, and a coach-house perfectly dry and well ventilated, for the wood-work swells with moisture; it shrinks also with heat, unless the timber has undergone a long course of seasoning: it should also have a dry floor, a boarded one being recommended. It must be removed from the ammoniacal influence of the stables, from open drains and cesspools, and other gaseous influences likely to affect the paint and varnish. When the carriage returns home, it should be carefully washed and dried, and that, if possible, before the mud has time to dry on it. This is done by first well slushing it with clean water, so as to wash away all particles of sand, having first closed the sashes to avoid wetting the linings. The body is then gone carefully over with a soft mop, using plenty of clean water, and penetrating into every corner of the carved work, so that not an atom of dirt remains; the body of the carriage is then raised by placing the jack under the axletree and raising it so that the wheel turns freely; this is now thoroughly washed with the mop until the dirt is removed, using a water-brush for corners where the mop does not penetrate. Every particle of mud and sand removed by the mop, and afterwards with a wet sponge, the carriage is wiped dry, and, as soon after as possible, the varnish is carefully polished with soft leather, using a little sweet oil for the leather parts, and even for the panels, so as to check any tendency of the varnish to crack. Stains are removed by rubbing them with the leather and sweet oil; if that fails, a little Tripoli powder mixed with the oil will be more successful.
2227. In preparing the carriage for use, the whole body should be rubbed over with a clean leather and carefully polished, the iron-work and joints oiled, the plated and brass-work occasionally cleaned,—the one with plate-powder, or with well-washed whiting mixed with sweet oil, and leather kept for the purpose,—the other with rottenstone mixed with a little oil, and applied without too much rubbing, until the paste is removed; but, if rubbed every day with the leather, little more will be required to keep it untarnished. The linings require careful brushing every day, the cushions being taken out and beaten, and the glass sashes should always be bright and clean. The wheel-tires and axletree are carefully seen to, and greased when required, the bolts and nuts tightened, and all the parts likely to get out of order overhauled.
2228. These duties, however, are only incidental to the coachman's office, which is to drive; and much of the enjoyment of those in the carriage depends on his proficiency in his art,—much also of the wear of the carriage and horses. He should have sufficient knowledge of the construction of the carriage to know when it is out of order,—to know, also, the pace at which he can go over the road he has under him, without risking the springs, and without shaking those he is driving too much.
2229. Having, with or without the help of the groom or stable-boy, put his horses to the carriage, and satisfied himself, by walking round them, that everything is properly arranged, the coachman proceeds to the off-side of the carriage, takes the reins from the back of the horses, where they were thrown, buckles them together, and, placing his foot on the step, ascends to his box, having his horses now entirely under control. In ordinary circumstances, he is not expected to descend, for where no footman accompanies the carriage, the doors are usually so arranged that even a lady may let herself out, if she wishes it, from the inside. The coachman's duties are to avoid everything approaching an accident, and all his attention is required to guide his horses.
2230. The pace at which he drives will depend upon his orders,—in all probability a moderate pace of seven or eight miles an hour; less speed is injurious to the horses, getting them into lazy and sluggish habits; for it is wonderful how soon these are acquired by some horses. The writer was once employed to purchase a horse for a country friend, and he picked a very handsome gelding out of Collins's stables, which seemed to answer to his friend's wants. It was duly committed to the coachman who was to drive it, after some very successful trials in harness and out of it, and seemed likely to give great satisfaction. After a time, the friend got tired of his carriage, and gave it up; as the easiest mode of getting rid of the horse, it was sent up to the writer's stables,—a present. Only twelve months had elapsed; the horse was as handsome as ever, with plenty of flesh, and a sleek glossy coat, and he was thankfully enough received; but, on trial, it was found that a stupid coachman, who was imbued with one of their old maxims, that "it's the pace that kills," had driven the horse, capable of doing his nine miles an hour with ease, at a jog-trot of four miles, or four and a half; and now, no persuasion of the whip could get more out of him. After many unsuccessful efforts to bring him back to his pace, in one of which a break-down occurred, under the hands of a professional trainer, he was sent to the hammer, and sold for a sum that did not pay for the attempt to break him in. This maxim, therefore, "that it's the pace that kills," is altogether fallacious in the moderate sense in which we are viewing it. In the old coaching days, indeed, when the Shrewsbury "Wonder" drove into the inn yard while the clock was striking, week after week and mouth after month, with unerring regularity, twenty-seven hours to a hundred and sixty-two miles; when the "Quicksilver" mail was timed to eleven miles an hour between London and Plymouth, with a fine of £5 to the driver if behind time; when the Brighton "Age," "tool'd" and horsed by the late Mr. Stevenson, used to dash round the square as the fifth hour was striking, having stopped at the half-way house while his servant handed a sandwich and a glass of sherry to his passengers,—then the pace was indeed "killing." But the truth is, horses that are driven at a jog-trot pace lose that élan with which a good driver can inspire them, and they are left to do their work by mere weight and muscle; therefore, unless he has contrary orders, a good driver will choose a smart pace, but not enough to make his horses perspire: on level roads this should never be seen.
2231. In choosing his horses, every master will see that they are properly paired,—that their paces are about equal. When their habits differ, it is the coachman's duty to discover how he can, with least annoyance to the horses, get that pace out of them. Some horses have been accustomed to be driven on the check, and the curb irritates them; others, with harder mouths, cannot be controlled with the slight leverage this affords; he must, therefore, accommodate the horses as he best can. The reins should always be held so that the horses are "in hand;" but he is a very bad driver who always drives with a tight rein; the pain to the horse is intolerable, and causes him to rear and plunge, and finally break sway, if he can. He is also a bad driver when the reins are always slack; the horse then feels abandoned to himself; he is neither directed nor supported, and if no accident occurs, it is great good luck.
2232. The true coachman's hands are so delicate and gentle, that the mere weight of the reins is felt on the bit, and the directions are indicated by a turn of the wrist rather than by a pull; the horses are guided and encouraged, and only pulled up when they exceed their intended pace, or in the event of a stumble; for there is a strong though gentle hand on the reins.
2233. The Whip, in the hands of a good driver, and with well-bred cattle, is there, more as a precaution than a "tool" for frequent use; if he uses it, it is to encourage, by stroking the flanks; except, indeed, he has to punish some waywardness of temper, and then he does it effectually, taking care, however, that it is done on the flank, where there is no very tender part, never on the crupper. In driving, the coachman should never give way to temper. How often do we see horses stumble from being conducted, or at least "allowed," to go over bad ground by some careless driver, who immediately wreaks that vengeance on the poor horse which might, with much more justice, be applied to his own brutal shoulders. The whip is of course useful, and even necessary, but should be rarely used, except to encourage and excite the horses.
DUTIES OF THE VALET.
2234. Attendants on the Person.-"No man is a hero to his valet," saith the proverb; and the corollary may run, "No lady is a heroine to her maid." The infirmities of humanity are, perhaps, too numerous and too equally distributed to stand the severe microscopic tests which attendants on the person have opportunities of applying. The valet and waiting-maid are placed near the persons of the master and mistress, receiving orders only from them, dressing them, accompanying them in all their journeys, the confidants and agents of their most unguarded moments, of their most secret habits, and of course subject to their commands,—even to their caprices; they themselves being subject to erring judgment, aggravated by an imperfect education. All that can be expected from such servants is polite manners, modest demeanour, and a respectful reserve, which are indispensable. To these, good sense, good temper, some self-denial, and consideration for the feelings of others, whether above or below them in the social scale, will be useful qualifications. Their duty leads them to wait on those who are, from sheer wealth, station, and education, more polished, and consequently more susceptible of annoyance; and any vulgar familiarity of manner is opposed to all their notions of self-respect. Quiet unobtrusive manners, therefore, and a delicate reserve in speaking of their employers, either in praise or blame, is as essential in their absence, as good manners and respectful conduct in their presence.
2235. Some of the duties of the valet we have just hinted at in treating of the duties of the footman in a small family. His day commences by seeing that his master's dressing-room is in order; that the housemaid has swept and dusted it properly; that the fire is lighted and burns cheerfully; and some time before his master is expected, he will do well to throw up the sash to admit fresh air, closing it, however, in time to recover the temperature which he knows his master prefers. It is now his duty to place the body-linen on the horse before the fire, to be aired properly; to lay the trousers intended to be worn, carefully brushed and cleaned, on the back of his master's chair; while the coat and waistcoat, carefully brushed and folded, and the collar cleaned, are laid in their place ready to put on when required. All the articles of the toilet should be in their places, the razors properly set and stropped, and hot water ready for use.
2236. Gentlemen generally prefer performing the operation of shaving themselves, but a valet should be prepared to do it if required; and he should, besides, be a good hairdresser. Shaving over, he has to brush the hair, beard, and moustache, where that appendage is encouraged, arranging the whole simply and gracefully, according to the age and style of countenance. Every fortnight, or three weeks at the utmost, the hair should be cut, and the points of the whiskers trimmed as often as required. A good valet will now present the various articles of the toilet as they are wanted; afterwards, the body-linen, neck-tie, which he will put on, if required, and, afterwards, waistcoat, coat, and boots, in suitable order, and carefully brushed and polished.
2237. Having thus seen his master dressed, if he is about to go out, the valet will hand him his cane, gloves, and hat, the latter well brushed on the outside with a soft brush, and wiped inside with a clean handkerchief, respectfully attend him to the door, and open it for him, and receive his last orders for the day.
2238. He now proceeds to put everything in order in the dressing-room, cleans the combs and brushes, and brushes and folds up any clothes that may be left about the room, and puts them away in the drawers.
2239. Gentlemen are sometimes indifferent as to their clothes and appearance; it is the valet's duty, in this case, where his master permits it, to select from the wardrobe such things as are suitable for the occasion, so that he may appear with scrupulous neatness and cleanliness; that his linen and neck-tie, where that is white or coloured, are unsoiled; and where he is not accustomed to change them every day, that the cravat is turned, and even ironed, to remove the crease of the previous fold. The coat collar,—which where the hair is oily and worn long, is apt to get greasy—should also be examined; a careful valet will correct this by removing the spots day by day as they appear, first by moistening the grease-spots with a little rectified spirits of wine or spirits of hartshorn, which has a renovating effect, and the smell of which soon disappears. The grease is dissolved and removed by gentle scraping. The grease removed, add a little more of the spirit, and rub with a piece of clean cloth; finish by adding a few drops more; rub it with the palm of the hand, in the direction of the grain of the cloth, and it will be clean and glossy as the rest of the garment.
2240. Polish for the boots is an important matter to the valet, and not always to be obtained good by purchase; never so good, perhaps, as he can make for himself after the following recipes:—Take of ivory-black and treacle each 4 oz., sulphuric acid 1 oz., best olive-oil 2 spoonfuls, best white-wine vinegar 3 half-pints: mix the ivory-black and treacle well in an earthen jar; then add the sulphuric acid, continuing to stir the mixture; next pour in the oil; and, lastly, add the vinegar, stirring it in by degrees, until thoroughly incorporated.
241. Another polish is made by mixing 1 oz. each of pounded galls and logwood-chips, and 3 lbs. of red French vine (ordinaire). Boil together till the liquid is reduced to half the quantity, and pour it off through a strainer. Now take 1/2 lb. each of pounded gum-arabic and lump-sugar, 1 oz. of green copperas, and 3 lbs. of brandy. Dissolve the gum-arabic in the preceding decoction, and add the sugar and copperas: when all is dissolved and mixed together, stir in the brandy, mixing it smoothly. This mixture will yield 5 or 6 lbs. of a very superior polishing paste for boots and shoes.
2242. It is, perhaps, unnecessary to add, that having discharged all the commissions intrusted to him by his master, such as conveying notes or messages to friends, or the tradesmen, all of which he should punctually and promptly attend to, it is his duty to be in waiting when his master returns home to dress for dinner, or for any other occasion, and to have all things prepared for this second dressing. Previous to this, he brings under his notice the cards of visitors who may have called, delivers the messages be may have received for him, and otherwise acquits himself of the morning's commissions, and receives his orders for the remainder of the day. The routine of his evening duty is to have the dressing-room and study, where there is a separate one, arranged comfortably for his master, the fires lighted, candles prepared, dressing-gown and slippers in their place, and aired, and everything in order that is required for his master's comforts.
FEMALE DOMESTICS.