ENTREES AND RÉCHAUFFÉS.
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goes, as “heated up,” or “warmed over,” to use her own detestable phrase, when she does not offer the even more repulsive “hotted-up.” If properly prepared, meat is often nicer the second day than the first, for many things gain by keeping. Take curry for instance, always (if properly made) better the second day than the first; whilst a stew, or a fricassée, not to speak of a hash, is immensely improved by the prolonged steeping of the meat in its gravy, on the condition, of course, that it is never allowed to re-boil in the course of its re- heating. Our ancestors knew this when they cherished those delicious hash dishes of theirs with their dainty little spirit lamps under them, and the outer hot-water jacket often seen with them; these same dishes, by the way, have been reintroduced from America as novelties, under the name of “chafingdishes.” Any persons possessing one of these articles have only themselves to blame if the hash is a failure. Try it this way and it is sure to be a success, if only the directions are carefully followed out: Have ready some nicely made brown sauce (if the meat is brown, say mutton), add to this a few drops of essence of anchovy, a very little Harvey (for table cookery cruet sauces are per- missible), a tiny squeeze of lemon, a dust of cayenne or coralline pepper, and, lastly, a little, very finely- minced parsley and chives or shallot. Lay the meat into this and leave it to steep, covered, till the dish is wanted; then light the lamp, and let it all just not come to the boil, and serve at once. This will be found a very different dish from the hash as