How to Brew your own Beer

A Plain Cookery Book for the Working ... · Francatelli, Charles Elmé · 1852
Source
A Plain Cookery Book for the Working Classes
Yield
3.0 kilderkins
Status
success · extracted 14 days ago
Not a recipe
No
Ingredients (6)
For brewing beer
Instructions (26)
  1. Gather all necessary brewing plant and utensils, ensure they are in proper working order, and thoroughly clean them.
  2. Prepare the mash-tub by fastening the tapwaist inside to the inner end of the spigot and faucet. Place the mash-tub in an elevated position, resting upon two benches or stools.
  3. The day before brewing, scrub and rinse all tackle clean, wipe out the copper, and half fill all tubs and barrels with cold water to soak for a few hours to guard against leakage. Afterwards, empty them and set to dry in the open air or before the fire.
  4. Early in the dawn of morning, light the fire under the copper, which should have been filled with water the previous night.
  5. As soon as the water boils, fill the mash-tub rather more than three-parts full.
  6. When the first heat of the water has subsided, and you can bear your fingers drawn slowly through it without pain, throw in the malt and stir it about for ten minutes.
  7. Lay some sticks across the mash-tub, cover it with sacks or blankets, and allow it to steep for three hours.
  8. At the end of three hours, let off the wort from the mash-tub into the underback-tub, which has been placed under the spigot and faucet.
  9. Pour the first wort that runs out back into the mash until the wort runs free from grains.
  10. Put the hops into the underback-tub and let the wort run out upon them.
  11. Refill the copper with water and boil it again while the mash is in progress.
  12. Pour sufficient boiling water into the grains left in the mash-tub to make up the quantity of fifty-four gallons.
  13. When this second mashing has stood for two hours, draw it off and mix it with the first batch of wort.
  14. Boil the whole mixture in two separate boilings, with the hops equally divided between them. Each lot should boil for an hour and a half after it has commenced boiling.
  15. Strain the beer through the loose wicker basket into cooling tubs and pans. The more cooling vessels used, the quicker the beer will cool.
  16. When the beer has cooled to the temperature of water that has stood in a house in summer for some hours, pour it all into your two or three largest tubs.
  17. Keep back a couple or three quarts of the beer in a pan. Mix this with a pint of good yeast and a tablespoonful of common salt. Stir well and keep in a rather warm part of the house.
  18. After about half an hour, the yeast mixture will work up to the top of the pan. This worked beer must now be equally divided between the tubs containing the bulk of the beer.
  19. Mix the worked beer into the bulk by ladling it about with a wooden hand-bowl for a couple of minutes.
  20. Cover the beer with sacks or blankets stretched upon sticks across the tubs and leave for forty-eight hours.
  21. Prepare the barrels for filling. Skim off the scum (yeast) from the top of the tubs.
  22. Draw off the beer through the spigot and use the wooden funnel placed in the bung-hole to fill the barrels not quite full. Optionally, put a few hops into each barrel before filling.
  23. Reserve some beer to fill up the barrels as they throw up yeast while working.
  24. When the yeast begins to fall, lay the bungs loosely upon the bung-holes.
  25. After ten days or a fortnight, hammer the bungs in tight and keep the vent-pegs tight also.
  26. The beer will be fit for drinking in about two months' time after brewing.
Original Text
No. 130. How to Brew your own Beer. The first preparatory step towards brewing is to gather your necessary plant together in proper working order, and thoroughly clean. Your plant or utensils must consist of the following articles, viz.:—A thirty-gallon copper, two cooling-tubs capable of holding each about thirty gallons; a mash-tub of sufficient size to contain fifty-four gallons, and another tub of smaller size, called an underback; a bucket or pail, a wooden hand-bowl, a large wooden funnel, a mash-stirrer, four scraped long stout sticks, a good-sized loose-wrought wicker basket for straining the beer, and another small bowl-shaped wicker basket, called a tapwaist, to fasten inside the mash-tub on to the inner end of the spigot and faucet, to keep back the grains when the wort is being run off out of the mash-tub. You will also require some beer barrels, a couple of brass or metal cocks, some vent-pegs, and some bungs. I do not pretend to assert that the whole of the foregoing articles are positively indispensable for brewing your own beer. I merely enumerate what is most proper to be used; leaving the manner and means of replacing such of these articles as may be out of your reach very much to your intelligence in contriving to use such as you possess, or can borrow from a neighbour, instead. Spring water, from its hardness, is unfit for brewing; fresh fallen rain water, caught in clean tubs, or water fetched from a brook or river, are best adapted for brewing; as, from the fact of their being free from all calcareous admixture, their consequent softness gives them the greater power to extract all the goodness and strength from the malt and hops. In order to ensure having good wholesome beer, it is necessary to calculate your brewing at the rate of two bushels of malt and two pounds of hops to[66] fifty-four gallons of water; these proportions, well managed, will produce three kilderkins of good beer. I recommend that you should use malt and hops of the best quality only; as their plentiful yield of beneficial substance fully compensates for their somewhat higher price. A thin shell, well filled up plump with the interior flour, and easily bitten asunder, is a sure test of good quality in malt; superior hops are known by their light greenish-yellow tinge of colour, and also by their bright, dry, yet somewhat gummy feel to the touch, without their having any tendency to clamminess. The day before brewing, let all your tackle be well scrubbed and rinsed clean, the copper wiped out, and all your tubs and barrels half filled with cold water, to soak for a few hours, so as to guard against any chance of leakage, and afterwards emptied, and set to dry in the open air, weather permitting; or otherwise, before the fire. Fasten the tapwaist inside the mash-tub to the inner end of the faucet and spigot, taking care to place the mash-tub in an elevated position, resting upon two benches or stools. Early in the dawn of morning, light the fire under your copper, filled with water over-night, and, as soon as it boils, with it fill the mash-tub rather more than three-parts full; and as soon as the first heat of the water has subsided, and you find that you are able to bear your fingers drawn slowly through it without experiencing pain, you must then throw in the malt, stirring it about for ten minutes or so; then lay some sticks across the mash-tub, and cover it with sacks or blankets, and allow it to steep for three hours. At the end of the three hours, let off the wort from the mash-tub into the underback-tub, which has been previously placed under the spigot and faucet ready to receive it; pouring the first that runs out back into the mash, until the wort runs free from grains, etc.; now put the hops into the underback-tub[67] and let the wort run out upon them. Your copper having been refilled, and boiled again while the mash is in progress, you must now pour sufficient boiling water into the grains left in the mash-tub to make up your quantity of fifty-four gallons; and when this second mashing shall have also stood some two hours, let it be drawn off, and afterwards mixed with the first batch of wort, and boil the whole at two separate boilings, with the hops equally divided; each lot to be allowed to boil for an hour and a-half after it has commenced boiling. The beer is now to be strained through the loose wicker basket into your cooling tubs and pans; the more you have of these the better the beer, from its cooling quickly. And when the beer has cooled to the degree of water which has stood in the house in summer-time for some hours, let it all be poured into your two or three largest tubs, keeping back a couple or three quarts in a pan, with which to mix a pint of good yeast and a table-spoonful of common salt; stir this mixture well together, keep it in rather a warm part of the house, and in the course of half an hour or so, it will work up to the top of the basin or pan. This worked beer must now be equally divided between the two or three tubs containing the bulk of the beer, and is to be well mixed in by ladling it about with a wooden hand-bowl for a couple of minutes. This done, cover over the beer with sacks or blankets stretched upon sticks across the tubs, and leave them in this state for forty-eight hours. The next thing to be seen to is to get your barrels placed in proper order and position for being filled; and to this end attend strictly to the following directions, viz.:—First, skim off the scum, which is yeast, from the top or surface of the tubs, and next, draw off the beer through the spigot, and with the wooden funnel placed in the bung-hole, proceed to fill up the barrels[68] not quite full; and, remember, that if a few hops are put into each before filling in the beer, it will keep all the better. Reserve some of the beer with which to fill up the barrels as they throw up the yeast while the beer is working; and when the yeast begins to fall, lay the bungs upon the bung-holes, and at the end of ten days or a fortnight, hammer the bungs in tight, and keep the vent-pegs tight also. In about two months' time after the beer has been brewed, it will be in a fit condition for drinking.
Notes