CHOICE AND CUTTING UP OF MEAT. 3
may be well to give the young housewife the benefit of M. Gouffé's advice on the subject of meat and its choice. This well-known chef says: “First of all make a point of acquainting yourself with the current prices of the articles you intend purchasing; never rely solely on one tradesman, nor place entire confidence in his statements, but trust a good deal to your own judgment; very few, even of the most superior provision dealers, can resist the temptation of relieving themselves of doubtful commodities at the expense of an inexperienced customer.” This advice is, of course, given to French housewives, who do their own marketing in many cases, which is a practice few British housekeepers have time or opportunity for. Still, it is a good thing to visit occasionally even so unattractive a shop—as it is to many women—as a butcher's, as you learn a good deal in that way (remember, unless you think it worth while to look after your own interests, no one else will), and you will soon see how differently customers are treated. The woman who insists on getting the joint of the size and kind she requires, ruthlessly returning the one that does not come up to her mark, soon becomes known, and is respected (and, if a good and practically ready-money customer, also feared) accordingly. For her you will see the dainty well-floured little joints hanging up labelled; no makeweight in the shape of superfluous bone or fat will find its way into her house; the butcher is far too well aware of the result of such treatment to venture on it. At the same time, it must be remembered that the cook needs as much watchfulness as