CHOICE AND CUTTING UP OF MEAT. 5
called, till all the juice and nourishment has exuded from it. Beef is at its best in winter, as then only can it be hung long enough to be really tender.
Veal should be plump, finely grained, but rather less closely textured than other meat. It should be of a delicate pinky colour, the fat, which should be evenly and not too abundantly distributed, of a pure white, and semi-transparent; whilst the kidney should be small and surrounded by a delicate, sweet-smelling suet. Remember that veal taints very quickly, and is then most unwholesome; so in hot weather twenty-four to thirty-six hours is the utmost limit it should be given. The calf should be from two to four months old.
Mutton, to be in perfection, should be at least four years old, a park-fed wether of four or five years being esteemed the most perfect mutton obtainable. Nowadays such perfection is seldom attained, save in some very large households, where a small flock is kept up for family use. Next to this mutton come the down and hill mutton. The sheep fed on the salt marshes, the pré-salé of the French, or our own down mutton fed near the sea coast, are cases in point. This mutton is usually black-faced, and smaller in bone and build than the ordinary inland-fed sheep, though the locally famous Romney Marsh mutton, when in perfection, combines size with flavour.
It is not difficult to tell the age of a sheep with a little care. Look at the breast bones when the sheep is “dressed,” as it is technically called when prepared for show in the shop. If these bones are