SOUPS.
is desired, a pinch of moist sugar may be added; but if simply frying to bring out the flavour of the ingredients (which many persons think is not suffi- ciently done by plain boiling), fry with the cover on, only shaking the pan now and again to prevent its contents sticking; and lastly, be particular with the liaisons. If these are made of milk and flour, rub the flour very carefully and smoothly with a quarter part of the liquid destined to form the liaison, whilst the latter is cold, then add this mixture to the remaining three-quarters of the liquid which must be boiling, and let it all cook together for five minutes or so, to thoroughly cook the flour, before adding it to the soup; then let it all heat together gently till just on, but not over boiling point. If an egg liaison is to be used, the yolks must be carefully mixed first with a little cold stock, and then added gradually to the soup, which, if hot, should be first lifted off the fire, and allowed to cool for two or three minutes; for were the eggs added to the soup when boiling, they would inevitably curdle and spoil the whole. For white soups the first cold stock is often replaced by milk, or for the delicate soups known as crèmes, by cream. For these latter, in France especially, a butter and cream liaison is used, in which the butter is added with two or three spoonfuls of cream according to the quantity of soup. When a plain butter liaison is used, the butter should be added only at the last moment, as the soup is being lifted off the fire, as in this way, never having been cooked, it gives a peculiar fresh creamy taste, never tained when the butter has been heated.