GERMAN YEAST.
(And Bread made with German Yeast.)
This has very generally superseded the use of English beer-yeast in London, and other places conveniently situated for receiving quickly and regularly the supplies of it which are imported from abroad; but as it speedily becomes putrid in sultry weather, and does not in any season remain good long after its arrival here, it is unsuited for transmission to remote parts of the country. Bread made with it while it is perfectly sweet, is extremely light and good, and it answers remarkably well for light cakes and biscuits. An ounce is the proportion which we have always had used for a quartern (half a gallon or three pounds and a half) of flour, and this, with the addition of some salt and nearly a quart of milk, or milk and water, has produced excellent bread when it has been made with care. The yeast should be very gradually and perfectly moistened and blended with the warm liquid; for unless this be done, and the whole rendered smooth as cream, the dough will not be of the uniform texture which it ought, but will be full of large hollow spaces, which are never seen in well-made bread. The mass should be mixed up firmly and well kneaded at once, then left to rise for about an hour; again kneaded thoroughly, and again left to rise from three-quarters of an hour to an hour; then divided, and lightly worked up into loaves, put into round slightly buttered earthen pans, and sent immediately to the oven.[187]
187. We give the proportions used and the exact manner of making this bread, which we have had followed for more than twelve months, with entire success.
A leaven may be first laid with the yeast, and part of the liquid when it is preferred, as directed for bread made with beer-yeast, but the result will be equally good if the whole be kneaded up at once, if it be made quite firm.
599 PROFESSOR LIEBIG’S BAVARIAN BROWN BREAD.
(Very nutritious and wholesome.)
Baron Liebig pronounces this bread to be very superior to that which is made with fine flour solely, both in consequence of the greater amount of nutriment which it contains, and from its slight medicinal effect, which renders it valuable to many persons accustomed to have frequent recourse to drugs, of which it supersedes the necessity. It is made with the wheat exactly as it is ground, no part being subtracted, nor any additional flour mingled with it. He directs that the wheat should not be damped before it is prepared: but few millers can be found who will depart from their ordinary practice to oblige private customers; and this determined adherence to established usage intervenes constantly between us, and all improvement in our modes of preparing food. The bread is made in the usual way, with water only, or with a portion of milk added to the yeast, as taste or convenience may dictate. The loaves should be well baked at all times; and the dough should of course be perfectly light when it is placed in the oven. Salt should be mixed with the meal before the yeast is added.
ENGLISH BROWN BREAD.
This is often made with a portion only of the unbolted meal recommended in the preceding receipt, mixed with more or less of fine flour, according to the quality of bread required; and in many families the coarse bran is always sifted from the meal, as an impression exists that it is irritating to the stomach. If one gallon of meal as it comes from the mill, be well mixed with an equal measure of flour, and made into a dough in the manner directed for white household bread, the loaves will still be sufficiently brown for the general taste in this country, and they will be good and wholesome, though not, perhaps, so entirely easy of digestion as Baron Liebig’s Bavarian bread.
UNFERMENTED BREAD.
This bread, in which carbonate of soda and muriatic acid are substituted for yeast or other leaven, has within these few years been highly recommended, and much eaten. It may possibly suit many persons better than that which is fermented in the usual way, but it is not in general by any means so pleasant in flavour; and there is much more chance of failure in preparing it in private families, as it requires some skill to mix the ingredients with exactness and despatch; and it is absolutely necessary that the dough should be set into the oven the instant it is ready. In some hydropathic and other large 600establishments, where it is always supplied to the table in lieu of the more common kinds, it is, we have been informed by patients who had partaken of it there for many months together, exceedingly and uniformly good. More detailed information with regard to it, will be found in our “Cookery for Invalids,” a work for which our want of space in the present volume compels us to reserve it.
“For each pound of flour (or meal) take forty grains of sesquicarbonate of soda, mix it intimately with the sugar and flour, then add fifty drops of muriatic acid of the shops, diluted with half a pint of water, or with as much as may be requisite to form the dough, stirring it constantly into a smooth mass. Divide it into a couple of loaves, and put them immediately into a quick oven.” Bake them thoroughly.
Author’s note.—Dr. Pereira, from whose book on diet the substance of the above receipt is taken, says that delicious bread was made by it in his presence by the cook of Mr. John Savory, of Bond Street, equal to any bread fermented by the usual process. We would suggest that the soda, mixed with the sugar, and a small portion of the flour, should be rubbed through a hair sieve with a wooden spoon into the remainder of the flour, and stirred up with it until the whole is perfectly mingled, before the liquid is added. Should lighter bread be desired, the soda may be increased to fifty or even sixty grains, if the quantity of acid be proportionately augmented. As common salt is formed by the combination of these two agents, none beside is needed in the bread.
Flour, 1 lb.; sesquicarbonate of soda, 40 grains; sugar, 1 teaspoonful; muriatic acid of the shops, 50 drops; water, 1/2 pint (or as needed).
POTATO BREAD.
One pound of good mealy potatoes, steamed or boiled very dry, in the ordinary way, or prepared by Captain Kater’s receipt (see Chapter XVII.), and rubbed quite hot, through a coarse sieve, into a couple of pounds of flour, with which they should be well mixed, will produce excellent bread, which will remain moist much longer than wheaten bread made as usual. The yeast should be added immediately after the potatoes. An ounce or two of butter, an egg and some new milk, will convert this bread into superior rolls.
DINNER OR BREAKFAST ROLLS.
Crumble down very small indeed, an ounce of butter into a couple of pounds of the best flour, and mix with them a large saltspoonful of salt. Put into a basin a dessertspoonful of solid, well-purified yeast, and half a teaspoonful of pounded sugar; mix these with half a pint of warm new milk; hollow the centre of the flour, pour in the yeast gradually, stirring to it sufficient of the surrounding flour to make a thick batter; strew more flour on the top, cover a thick 601double cloth over the pan, and let it stand in a warm kitchen to rise. In winter it must be placed within a few feet of the fire. In about an hour, should the leaven have broken through the flour on the top, and have risen considerably in height, mix one lightly-whisked egg, or the yolks of two, with nearly half a pint more of quite warm new milk, and wet up the mass into a very smooth dough. Cover it as before, and in from half to three-quarters of an hour turn it on to a paste-board, and divide it into twenty-four portions of equal size. Knead these up as lightly as possible into small round, or olive-shaped rolls; make a slight incision round them, and cut them once or twice across the top, placing them as they are done on slightly floured baking sheets an inch or two apart. Let them remain for fifteen or twenty minutes to prove; then wash the tops with yolk of egg, mixed with a little milk, and bake them in a rather brisk oven from ten to fifteen minutes. Turn them upside down upon a dish to cool after they are taken from the tins. An additional ounce of butter and another egg can be used for these rolls when richer bread is liked; but it is so much less wholesome than a more simple kind, that it is not to be recommended. A cup of good cream would be an admirable substitute for butter altogether, rendering the rolls exceedingly delicate both in appearance and in flavour. The yeast used for them should be stirred up with plenty of cold water the day before it is wanted; and it will be found very thick indeed when it is poured off, which should be gently done. Rather less than an ounce of good fresh German yeast may be used for them instead of brewer’s yeast, with advantage.
GENEVA ROLLS, OR BUNS.
Break down into very small crumbs three ounces of butter with two pounds of flour; add a little salt, and set the sponge with a large tablespoonful of solid yeast, mixed with a pint of new milk, and a tablespoonful or more of strong saffron water; let it rise for a full hour, then stir to a couple of well-beaten eggs as much hot milk as will render them lukewarm, and wet the rolls with them to a light, lithe dough; leave it from half to three-quarters of an hour longer, mould it into small rolls, brush them with beaten yolk of egg, and bake them from twenty minutes to half an hour. The addition of six ounces of good sugar, three of butter, half a pound or more of currants, the grated rind of a large lemon, and a couple of ounces of candied orange-rind, will convert these into excellent buns. When the flavour of the saffron is not liked, omit it altogether. Only so much should be used at any time as will give a rich colour to the bread.
Flour, 2 lbs.; butter, 3 oz.; solid yeast, 1 large tablespoonful (saffron, 1 teaspoonful; water, less than a quarter pint); new milk, 1 pint: 1 hour, or more. 2 eggs, more milk: 3/4 hour: baked 20 to 30 minutes.
602 RUSKS.
Work quite into crumbs six ounces of butter with a couple of pounds of fine dry flour, and mix them into a lithe paste, with two tablespoonsful of mild beer yeast, three well-beaten eggs, and nearly half a pint of warm new milk. When it has risen to its full height knead it smooth, and make it into very small loaves or thick cakes cut with a round cake-cutter; place them on a floured tin, and let them stand in a warm place to prove from ten to twenty minutes before they are set into the oven. Bake them about a quarter of an hour; divide them while they are still warm, and put them into a very slow oven to dry. When they are crisp quite through they are done. Four teaspoonsful of sifted sugar must be added when sweet-rusks are preferred.
Flour, 2 lbs.; butter, 6 oz.; yeast, 2 tablespoonsful; eggs, 3; new milk nearly half a pint: baked 1/4 hour.
For either of the preceding receipts substitute rather more than an ounce of German yeast, when it can be procured quite fresh; or should an ounce of it only be used (which we should consider an ample proportion), let the dough—especially that of the rusks—become extremely light before it is kneaded down, and also previously to its being sent to the oven. A somewhat smaller quantity of yeast is required in warm weather than in cold.
[Remark.—The remainder of this chapter is extracted from a little treatise on domestic bread-making, which we hope shortly to lay before the public, as it appears to us to be greatly needed; but, as we have already more than once repeated, we are unwilling to withhold from the present volume any information which may be generally useful.]
EXCELLENT DAIRY-BREAD MADE WITHOUT YEAST.
(Author’s Receipt.)
When we first heard unfermented bread vaguely spoken of, we had it tried very successfully in the following manner; and we have since been told that an almost similar method of preparing it is common in many remote parts both of England and Ireland, where it is almost impossible to procure a constant supply of yeast. Blend well together a teaspoonful of pounded sugar and fifty grains of the purest carbonate of soda; mix a saltspoonful of salt with a pound of flour, and rub the soda and sugar through a hair-sieve into it. Stir and mingle them well, and make them quickly into a firm but not hard dough with sour buttermilk. Bake the loaf well in a thoroughly heated, but not fierce oven. In a brick, or good iron oven a few minutes less than an hour would be sufficient to bake a loaf of similar weight. The buttermilk should be kept until it is quite acid, 603but it must never be in the slightest degree rancid, or otherwise bad. All unfermented bread should be placed in the oven directly it is made, or it will be heavy. For a larger baking allow rather less than an ounce of soda to the gallon (seven pounds) of flour.
Obs.—There are cases in which a knowledge of this, or of any other equally easy mode of bread-making would be invaluable. For example:—We learn from the wife of an officer who has for a long time been stationed off the Isle of Skye, in which his family have their abode, that the inhabitants depend entirely for bread on supplies brought to them from Glasgow; and that they are often entirely without, when the steamer which ought to arrive at intervals of eight days, is delayed by stress of weather. The residents are then compelled to have recourse to scones—as a mixture of flour and water and a little soda (cooked on a flat iron plate), are called—or to ship’s biscuit; and these are often found unsuitable for young children and invalids. There are no ovens in the houses, though there are grates for coal fires, in front of which small loaves of unfermented bread could be baked extremely well in good American ovens. Buttermilk can always be procured; and if not, a provision of carbonate of soda and muriatic acid might be kept at hand to ensure the means of making wholesome bread. In many other localities the same plan might prove of equal benefit.
TO KEEP BREAD.
Bread requires almost as much care as milk to preserve it wholesome and fresh. It should be laid, as soon as it is perfectly cold, into a large earthen pan with a cover, which should be kept free from crumbs, and be frequently scalded, and then wiped very dry for use. Loaves which have been cut should have a smaller pan appropriated to them, and this also should have the loose crumbs wiped from it daily. It is a good plan to raise the bread-pans from the floor of the larder, when there is no proper stand or frame for the purpose, by means of two flat wedges of wood, so as to allow a current of air to pass under them.
TO FRESHEN STALE BREAD (AND PASTRY, ETC.), AND PRESERVE IT FROM MOULD.
If entire loaves be placed in a gentle oven and heated quite through, without being previously dipped into cold water, according to the old-fashioned plan, they will eat almost like bread newly baked: they should not remain in it long enough to become hard and dry, but they should be made hot throughout. In very damp localities, when large household bakings take place but once in eight or ten days, it is sometimes necessary to use precautions against the attack of mould, though the bread may have been exceedingly well made; and the method recommended above will be the best for 604warding it off, and for preserving the bread eatable for several days longer than it would otherwise be. If large loaves be just dipped into cold water and then placed in a quick oven until they are again thoroughly dried, they will resemble new bread altogether.
Pastry, cakes, and biscuits, may all be greatly improved when stale, by heating them in a gentle oven.
TO KNOW WHEN BREAD IS SUFFICIENTLY BAKED.
When the surface is uniformly browned, and it is everywhere firm to the touch, and the bottom crust of a loaf is hard, it is generally certain that it is thoroughly baked. To test bread that has been cut (or yeast-cakes), press down the crumb lightly in the centre with the thumb; when it is elastic and rises again to its place, it is proof that it is perfectly done; but if the indentation remains, the heat has not sufficiently penetrated the dough to convert it into wholesome eating.
ON THE PROPER FERMENTATION OF DOUGH.
As we have previously said, too large a proportion of yeast, which is very commonly used by persons not well skilled in bread-making, although it produces quickly a light spongy dough, has a very bad effect on bread, which it renders much less easy of digestion than that which is more slowly fermented, and far less sweet and pleasant in flavour: it also prevents its remaining eatable the same length of time, as it speedily becomes dry. It is likewise very disadvantageous to make the dough so lithe that it spreads about in the oven; and if it be excessively stiff, and its management not thoroughly understood, it will sometimes be heavy,. To prevent this, it should be kept quite warm (never heated), and left a much longer time to rise. It will frequently then prove excellent. It will ferment rather more quickly if, when it gives symptoms of becoming light it is made up into loaves with the least possible kneading, and a slight incision is made round them and across the tops, and they are then placed in a warm air, and kept secure from cold currents passing over them.
605 CHAPTER XXXII.
FOREIGN AND JEWISH COOKERY.
We had hoped to have been able without exceeding the prescribed limits of the present volume to have added here a somewhat extensive chapter on the cookery of other countries, and to have comprised in it a section adapted to the service of the Jewish table; but we have so much enlarged in the pages on the more important subject of “Bread,” and on other matters which relate to simple English domestic 606economy, that we find it necessary to depart from our original intention, and to confine our receipts here to a comparatively small number. This, however, is of the less consequence as so many good and well tested foreign receipts, of which, from our own experience, we can guarantee the success, are to be found in the body of the work.
REMARKS ON JEWISH COOKERY.
From being forbidden by their usages to mingle butter, or other preparation of milk or cream with meat at any meal, the Jews have oil much used in their cookery of fish, meat, and vegetables. Pounded almonds and rich syrups of sugar and water agreeably flavoured, assist in compounding their sweet dishes, many of which are excellent, and preserve much of their oriental character; but we are credibly informed that the restrictions of which we have spoken are not at the present day very rigidly observed by the main body of Jews in this country, though they are so by those who are denominated strict.
JEWISH SMOKED BEEF.[188]
188. We were made acquainted with it first through the courtesy of a Jewish lady, who afterwards supplied us with the address of the butcher from whom it was procured: Mr. Pass, 34, Duke Street, Aldgate, from whom the chorissa also may be purchased, and probably many other varieties of smoked meat which are used in Jewish cookery. For such of our readers as may not be acquainted with the fact, it may be well to state here that all meat supplied by Jew butchers is sure to be of first-rate quality, as they are forbidden by the Mosaic Law to convert into food any animal which is not perfectly free from all “spot or blemish.”
This is excellent, possessing the fine flavour of a really well cured ham, and retaining it unimpaired for a very long time after it is cut or cooked, if kept in a cool larder; it is therefore a valuable and inexpensive store for imparting savour to soups, gravies, and other preparations; and it affords also a dish of high relish for the table. An inch or two of the lean part, quite cleared from the smoked edges and divided into dice, will flavour well a tureen of gravy, or a pint of soup: even that which has been boiled will greatly improve the flavour of Liebig’s extract of beef, and of any simple broth or consommé. From the depth of fat upon it, which appears particularly rich and mellow, we think it is the thick flank of the beef of which we have made trial in various ways, and which is now in much request in several families of our acquaintance, who find it greatly superior to the common hung or Dutch beef, to which they were previously accustomed.
It must be cooked in the same manner as other smoked meats, more time being allowed for it than for fresh. Drop it into boiling water, and when it has boiled quickly for ten minutes, take off the scum should any appear, add cold water sufficient to reduce it to 607mere scalding heat, bring it again gently to a boil, and simmer it until the lean appears quite tender when probed with a sharp skewer; then lift it on to a drainer and serve it hot or cold, and garnished in either case with vegetables or otherwise at pleasure. Beef, 6 lbs.: 3 hours or more.
CHORISSA (OR JEWISH SAUSAGE) WITH RICE.
The chorissa is a peculiar kind of smoked sausage much served at Jewish tables[189] as an accompaniment to boiled poultry, &c. It seems to be in great part composed of delicate pounded meat, intermingled with suet and with a small portion of some highly-cured preparation, and with herbs or spices which impart to it an agreeable aromatic flavour.
189. It may be had at the same shops as the smoked beef, and is the same price—a shilling the pound.
Drop the chorissa into warm water, heat it gently, boil it for about twenty minutes, and serve it surrounded with rice prepared as for currie. It will be found very good broiled in slices after the previous boiling: it should be cold before it is again laid to the fire. In all cases it will, we think, be found both more easy of digestion and more agreeable if half-boiled at least before it is broiled, toasted, or warmed in the oven for table. It is a good addition to forcemeat, and pounded savoury preparations, if used in moderation.
TO FRY SALMON AND OTHER FISH IN OIL.
(To Serve Cold.)
Turn into a small deep frying-pan, which should be kept for the purpose, a flask of fresh olive oil, place it over a clear fire, and as soon as it ceases to bubble lay in a pound and a half of delicate salmon properly cleansed and well dried in a cloth, and fry it gently until it is cooked quite through. The surface should be only lightly browned, and when the proper colour is attained the pan must be lifted so high from the fire as to prevent it being deepened, as we have directed in Chapter IX. in the general instructions for frying. Drain the fish well when it is done, and when it is perfectly cold, dish, and garnish it with light foliage. The Jews have cold fried fish much served at their repasts. Fillets of soles, plaice, brill, small turbots, or other flat fish, may be fried as above, and arranged in a symmetrical form round a portion of a larger fish, or by themselves. We would recommend as an accompaniment one of the Mauritian chutnies which are to be found in this chapter.
Olive oil, 1 small flask; salmon, about 1-1/2 lb.: 1/2 hour or rather more. Fillets of fish 5 to 10 minutes.
Obs.—The oil should be strained through a sieve, and set aside as the fish is done; it will serve many times for frying if this be observed.
608 JEWISH ALMOND PUDDING.
We have not thought it necessary to test this receipt ourselves, as we have tasted the puddings made by it more than once, and have received the exact directions for them from the Jewish lady at whose house they were made. They are extremely delicate and excellent. The almonds for them were procured ready ground from a Jew confectioner, but when they cannot be thus obtained they must be pounded in the usual manner. With half a pound of sweet, mingle six or seven bitter almonds, half a pound of sifted sugar, a little fine orange-flower water, with the yolks of ten and the whites of seven well whisked eggs, and when the whole of the ingredients are intimately blended, bake the pudding in a rather quick oven for half an hour, or longer should it not be then sufficiently firm to turn out of the dish. Sift sugar thickly over, or pour round it a rich syrup flavoured with orange-flower water, noyau or maraschino.
Obs.—We think a fruit syrup—pine-apple or other—or a compôte of fruit would be an excellent accompaniment to this pudding, which may be served hot or cold. We conclude that the dish in which it is baked, if not well buttered, must be rubbed with oil. The above proportions will make two puddings of sufficient size for a small party.
THE LADY’S OR INVALID’S NEW BAKED APPLE PUDDING.
(Author’s Original Receipt. Appropriate to the Jewish table.)
This pudding, which contains no butter, is most excellent when made with exactness by the directions which follow, but any variation from them will probably be attended with entire failure, especially in the crust, which if properly made will be solid, but very light and crisp; whereas, if the proportion of sugar for it be diminished, the bread will not form a compact mass, but will fall into crumbs when it is served. First weigh six ounces of the crumb of a light stale loaf, and grate it down small; then add to, and mix thoroughly with it three ounces and a half of pounded sugar, and a slight pinch of salt. Next, take from a pound to a pound and a quarter of russets, or of any other good baking apples; pare, and then take them off the cores in quarters without cutting the fruit asunder, as they will then, from the form given to them, lie more compactly in the dish. Arrange them in close layers in a deep tart-dish which holds about a pint and a half, and strew amongst them four ounces of sugar and the grated rind of a fine fresh lemon; add the strained juice of the lemon, and pour the bread-crumbs softly in a heap upon the apples in the centre of the dish, and with the back of a spoon level them gently into a very smooth layer of equal thickness, pressing them lightly down upon the fruit, which must all be perfectly covered with them. Sift powdered sugar over, wipe the edge of the 609dish, and bake the pudding in a somewhat quick oven for rather more than three-quarters of an hour. We have had it several times baked quite successfully in a baker’s oven, of which the heat is in general too great for puddings of a delicate kind. Very pale brown sugar will answer for it almost as well as pounded. For the nursery, some crumbs of bread may be strewed between the layers of fruit, and nutmeg or cinnamon may be used instead of lemon.
Obs.—We insert this receipt here because the pudding has been so much liked, and found so wholesome by many persons who have partaken of it at different times, that we think it will be acceptable to some of our readers, but it belongs properly to another work which we have in progress, and from which we extract it now for the present volume. An ounce or more of ratifias crushed to powder, may be added to the crust, or strewed over the pudding before it is served, when they are considered an improvement.
A FEW GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR THE JEWISH TABLE.
As a substitute for milk, in the composition of soufflés, puddings, and sweet dishes, almond-cream as it is called, will be found to answer excellently. To prepare it, blanch and pound the almonds by the directions of page 542, and then pour very gradually to them boiling water in the proportion directed below; turn them into a strong cloth or tammy, and wring it from them with powerful pressure, to extract as much as possible of it from them again.
The fruit custards of page 482, and the méringues of fruit of page 485, are perfectly suited to the tables of Jewish families; and sweet or savoury croustades or fried patties may be supplied to them from the receipts in the present work, by substituting clarified marrow (see page 388) for the butter used for them in general cookery. The reader will easily discover in addition, numerous dishes distributed through this volume which may be served to them without departing from their peculiar usages.
Almond-cream: (for puddings, &c.) almonds, 4 oz.; water, 1 pint. For blancmanges, and rich soufflés, creams and custards: almonds, 1/2 to whole pound; water, 1 to 1-1/2 pints.
Obs.—As every cook may not be quite aware of the articles of food strictly prohibited by the Mosaic law, it may be well to specify them here. Pork in every form; all varieties of shell-fish, without exception; hares, rabbits, and swans.
TOMATA AND OTHER CHUTNIES.
(Mauritian Receipts.)
The composition of these favourite oriental sauces varies but little except in the ingredient which forms the basis of each. The 610same piquant or stimulating auxiliaries are intermingled with all of them in greater or less proportion. These are, young onions, chilies (sometimes green ginger), oil, vinegar, and salt; and occasionally a little garlic or full grown onion, which in England might be superseded by a small portion of minced eschalot. Green peaches, mangoes, and other unripe fruits, crushed to pulp on the stone roller, shown at the head of this chapter; ripe bananas, tomatas roasted or raw, and also reduced to a smooth pulp; potatoes cooked and mashed; the fruit of the egg-plant boiled and reduced to a paste; fish, fresh, salted, or smoked, and boiled or grilled, taken in small fragments from the bones and skin, and torn into minute shreds, or pounded, are all in their turn used in their preparation.[190] Mingle with any one of these as much of the green onions and chilies chopped up small, as will give it a strong flavour; add salt if needed, and as much olive oil, of pure quality, with a third as much of vinegar, as will bring it to the consistence of a thick sauce. Serve it with currie, cutlets, steaks, pork, cold meat, or fish, or aught else to which it would be an acceptable accompaniment.
190. We are indebted for these receipts to a highly intelligent medical man who has been for twenty years a resident in the Mauritius.
INDIAN LOBSTER-CUTLETS.
A really excellent and elegant receipt for lobster-cutlets has already been given in previous editions of the present work, and is now to be found at page 91 of Chapter III.; but the subjoined is one which may be more readily and expeditiously prepared, and may consequently, be preferred by some of our readers for that reason: it has also the recommendation of being new. In India, these cutlets are made from the flesh of prawns, which are there of enormous size, but lobsters, unless quite overgrown, answer for them as well, or better. Select fish of good size and take out the tails entire; slice them about the third of an inch thick, dip them into beaten egg, and then into very fine crumbs of bread seasoned rather highly with cayenne, and moderately with salt, grated nutmeg, and pounded mace. Egg and crumb them twice, press the bread upon them with the blade of a knife, and when all are ready, fry them quickly in good butter to a light brown. Serve them as dry as possible, arranged in a chain round a hot dish, and pour into the centre, or send to table with them in a tureen, some sauce made with the flesh of the claws heated in some rich melted butter, flavoured with a tablespoonful of essence of anchovies, one of strong chili vinegar, a little salt and mace, and coloured with the coral of the fish, should they contain any. A few shrimps may be added with good effect; or the sauce may be made of these entirely, either whole or pounded, when they are preferred. In either case, they should only be heated 611in it, and not allowed to boil. East or West Indian mangoes, or other hot pickle, should accompany the dish. The cutlets may likewise be dipped into light French batter, and fried; but the egg and bread-crumbs are somewhat preferable. It is an advantage to have lobsters little more than parboiled for them. Herbs can be added to the crumbs at pleasure; the writer does not, however, recommend them.
AN INDIAN BURDWAN.
(Entrée.)
This is an Oriental dish of high savour, which may be made either with a young fowl or chicken parboiled for the purpose, or with the remains of such as have already been sent to table. First, put into a stewpan about a tablespoonful of very mild onion finely minced, or a larger proportion with a mixture of eschalots, for persons whose taste is in favour of so strong a flavour; add rather more than a quarter of a pint of cold water, about an ounce of butter smoothly blended with a very small teaspoonful of flour, a moderate seasoning of cayenne, and a tablespoonful of essence of anchovies. Shake or stir this sauce over a clear fire until it boils, then let it stand aside and merely simmer for ten or fifteen minutes, or until the onion is quite tender, then pour to it a couple of wineglassesful of Madeira (Sherry or Tenerifte will do), and a tablespoonful of chili-vinegar. Lay in the fowl after having carved it neatly, divided all the joints, and stripped off the skin; and let it remain close to the fire, but without boiling, until it is perfectly heated through; bring it to the point of boiling and send it immediately to table. A dish of rice, boiled as for currie, is often, but not invariably, served with it. Should the fowl have been parboiled only—that is to say, boiled for a quarter of an hour—it must be gently stewed in the sauce for fifteen or twenty minutes; longer, even, should it not then be quite tender. Cold lamb, or veal, or calf’s-head, or a delicate young rabbit, may be very advantageously served as a rechauffé, in a sauce compounded as above. The various condiments contained in this can be differently apportioned at pleasure; and pickled capsicum, or chilies minced, can be added to it at choice either in lieu of, or in addition to the chili-vinegar. The juice of a fresh lime should, if possible, be thrown into it before it is served. Except for a quite plain family dinner, only the superior joints of poultry should be used for this dish. Care should be taken not to allow the essence of anchovies to predominate too powerfully in it.
THE KING OF OUDE’S OMLET.
Whisk up very lightly, after having cleared them in the usual way, five fine fresh eggs; add to them two dessertspoonsful of milk or cream, a small teaspoonful of salt, one—or half that quantity for 612English eaters—of cayenne pepper, three of minced mint, and two dessertspoonsful of young leeks, or of mild onions chopped small. Dissolve an ounce and a half of good butter in a frying-pan about the size of a plate, or should a larger one of necessity be used, raise the handle so as to throw the omlet entirely to the opposite side; pour in the eggs, and when the omlet, which should be kept as thick as possible, is well risen and quite firm, and of a fine light brown underneath, slide it on to a very hot dish, and fold it together “like a turnover,” the brown side uppermost: six or seven minutes will fry it. This receipt is given to the reader in a very modified form, the fiery original which we transcribe being likely to find but few admirers here we apprehend: the proportion of leeks or onions might still be much diminished with advantage:—“Five eggs, two tolahs of milk, one masha of salt, two mashas of cayenne pepper, three of mint, and two tolahs of leeks.”
KEDGEREE OR KIDGEREE, AN INDIAN BREAKFAST DISH.
Boil four ounces of rice tender and dry as for currie, and when it is cooled down put it into a saucepan with nearly an equal quantity of cold fish taken clear of skin and bone, and divided into very small flakes or scallops. Cut up an ounce or two of fresh butter and add it, with a full seasoning of cayenne, and as much salt as may be required. Stir the kedgeree constantly over a clear fire until it is very hot; then mingle quickly with it two slightly beaten eggs. Do not let it boil after these are stirred in; but serve the dish when they are just set. A Mauritian chatney may be sent to table with it. The butter may be omitted, and its place supplied by an additional egg or more. Cold turbot, brill, salmon, soles, John Dory, and shrimps, may all be served in this form.
A SIMPLE SYRIAN PILAW.
Drop gradually into three pints of boiling water one pint of rice which has been shaken in a cullender to free it from the dust and then well wiped in a soft clean cloth. The boiling should not be checked by the addition of the rice, which if well managed will require no stirring, and which will entirely absorb the water. It should be placed above the fire where the heat will reach it equally from below; and it should boil gently that the grain may become quite tender and dry. When it is so, and the surface is full of holes, pour in two or three ounces of clarified butter, or merely add some, cut up small; throw in a seasoning of salt and white pepper, or cayenne; stir the whole up well, and serve it immediately. An onion, when the flavour is liked, may be boiled in the water, which should afterwards be strained, before the rice is added; there should be three pints of it when the grain is dropped in.
613Small fried sausages or sausage-cakes may be served with it at pleasure for English eaters. The rice may be well washed and thoroughly dried in a cloth when time will permit.
SIMPLE TURKISH OR ARABIAN PILAW.
(From Mr. Lane, the Oriental Traveller.)
“Piláw or piláu is made by boiling rice in plenty of water for about twenty minutes, so that the water drains off easily, leaving the grains whole, and with some degree of hardness; then stirring it up with a little butter, just enough to make the grains separate easily, and seasoning it with salt and pepper. Often a fowl, boiled almost to rags, is laid upon the top. Sometimes small morsels of fried or roasted mutton or lamb are mixed up with it; and there are many other additions; but generally the Turks and Arabs add nothing to the rice but the butter, and salt, and pepper.”
Obs.—We are indebted to the courtesy of Mr. Lane for this receipt, which was procured from him for us by one of his friends.
A REAL INDIAN PILAW.
Boil three pounds of bacon in the usual manner; take it out and drop into the same pan a pair of fowls compactly trussed as for boiling. In three quarters of an hour, unless very large, they will be sufficiently cooked; but they should be thoroughly boiled. When they are so, lift them out, and place a hot cover and thick cloth over them. Take three pints and a half of the liquor in which they were boiled, and add to it when it again boils, nearly two pounds of well washed Patna rice, three onions, a quarter of an ounce each of cloves and peppercorns, with half as much of allspice, tied loosely in a bit of muslin. Stew these together very gently for three quarters of an hour. Do not stir them as it breaks the rice. Take out the spice and onions; lay in the fowls if necessary, to heat them quite through, and dish them neatly with the rice heaped smoothly over them. Garnish the pilaw with hot hard-boiled eggs cut in quarters, or with fried forcemeat-balls, or with half rings of onion fried extremely dry. The bacon, heated apart, should be served in a separate dish.
Obs.—This is a highly approved receipt supplied to us by a friend who had long experience of it in India; but we would suggest that to be really cooked so as to render it wholesome in this country, a larger quantity of liquid should be added to it, as one pint (or pound) will absorb three pints of water or broth: and the time allowed for stewing it appears to us insufficient for it to become really tender. A Persian Pilaw is made much in the same manner, sometimes with morsels of fried kid mixed with the rice.
614Bacon, 3 lbs., 1-1/2 to 2 hours; fowls, 2.; Rice, nearly 2 lbs. Broth from bacon and fowls, 3-1/2 pints; onions, 3; cloves and peppercorns, 1/4 oz. each; allspice, 1 drachm: 3/4 hour.
INDIAN RECEIPT FOR CURRIED FISH.
Take the fish from the bones, and cut it into inch and half squares; lay it into a stewpan with sufficient hot water to barely cover it; sprinkle some salt over, and boil it gently until it is about half cooked. Lift it out with a fish-slice, pour the liquor into a basin, and clear off any scum which may be on it. Should there be three or four pounds of the fish, dissolve a quarter of a pound of butter in a stewpan, and when it has become a little brown, add two cloves of garlic and a large onion finely minced or sliced very thin; fry them until they are well coloured, then add the fish; strew equally over it, and stir it well up with from two to three tablespoonsful of Bengal currie powder; cover the pan, and shake it often until the fish is nicely browned; next add by degrees the liquor in which it was stewed, and simmer it until it is perfectly done, but not so as to fall into fragments. Add a moderate quantity of lemon-juice or chili vinegar, and serve it very hot.
BENGAL CURRIE POWDER.
No. 1.
Mix thoroughly the following ingredients after they have been separately reduced to the finest powder and passed through a fine hair or lawn sieve:—
6 oz. coriander seed. 3 oz. black pepper. 1 oz. cummin-seed. 1-1/2 oz. fenugreek-seed. 3/4 oz. cayenne pepper. 3 oz. best pale turmeric.
Set the powder before the fire to dry, and turn it often; then withdraw it, let it become cold, and bottle it immediately. Keep it closely corked.
Obs.—We cannot think a large proportion of black pepper a desirable addition to currie powder, as it gives a strong coarse flavour: but as it may be liked by persons who are accustomed to it, we give the preceding and the following receipt without varying either: the second appears to us the best.
Coriander-seed 8 oz. Chinese turmeric 4 oz. Black pepper 2 oz. Cassia 1/2 oz. White ginger 1 oz. Cayenne pepper 1/2 oz.
615 RISOTTO À LA MILANAISE.
Slice a large onion very thin, and divide it into shreds; then fry it slowly until it is equally but not too deeply browned; take it out and strain the butter, and fry in it about three ounces of rice for every person who is to partake of it. As the grain easily burns, it should be put into the butter when it begins to simmer, and be very gently coloured to a bright yellow tint over a slow fire. Add it to some good boiling broth lightly tinged with saffron, and stew it softly in a copper pan for fifteen or twenty minutes. Stir to it two or three ounces of butter mixed with a small portion of flour, a moderate seasoning of pepper or cayenne, and as much grated Parmesan cheese as will flavour it thoroughly. Boil the whole gently for ten minutes, and serve it very hot, at the commencement of dinner as a potage.
Obs.—The reader should bear in mind what we have so often repeated in this volume, that rice should always be perfectly cooked, and that it will not become tender with less than three times its bulk of liquid.
STUFATO.
(A Neapolitan Receipt.)
“Take about six pounds of the silver side of the round, and make several deep incisions in the inside, nearly through to the skin; stuff these with all kinds of savoury herbs, a good slice of lean ham, and half a small clove of garlic, all finely minced, and well mingled together; then bind and tie the meat closely round, so that the stuffing may not escape. Put four pounds of butter into a stewpan sufficiently large to contain something more than that quantity, and the beef in addition; so soon as it boils lay in the meat, let it just simmer for five or six hours, and turn it every half hour at least, that it may be equally done. Boil for twenty-five minutes three pounds of pipe maccaroni, drain it perfectly dry, and mix it with the gravy of the beef, without the butter, half a pint of very pure salad oil, and a pot of paste tomatas; mix these to amalgamation, without breaking the maccaroni; before serving up, sprinkle Parmesan cheese thickly on the maccaroni.”
We insert this receipt exactly as it was given to us by a friend, at whose table the dish was served with great success to some Italian diplomatists. From our own slight experience of it, we should suppose that the excellence of the beef is quite a secondary consideration, as all its juices are drawn out by the mode of cooking, and appropriated to the maccaroni, of which we must observe that three pounds would make too gigantic a dish to enter well, on ordinary occasions, into an English service.
616We have somewhere seen directions for making the stufato with the upper part of the sirloin, thickly larded with large, well-seasoned lardoons of bacon, and then stewed in equal parts of rich gravy, and of red or of white wine.
BROILED EELS WITH SAGE. (ENTRÉE.)
(German Receipt.) Good.
Skin, open, and cleanse one fine eel (or more), cut it into finger-lengths, rub it with a mixed seasoning of salt and white pepper, and leave it for half an hour. Wipe it dry, wrap each length in sage leaves, fasten them round it with coarse thread, roll the eel in good salad oil or clarified butter, lay it on the gridiron, squeeze lemon-juice over, and broil it gently until it is browned in every part. Send it to table with a sauce made of two or three ounces of butter, a tablespoonful of chili, tarragon, or common vinegar, and one of water, with a little salt; to keep this smooth, proceed as for the Norfolk sauce of Chapter V. Broiled fish is frequently served without any sauce. A quite simple one may supply the place of that which we have indicated above: eels being of so rich a nature, require no other.
A SWISS MAYONNAISE.
Beat half a pound of butter to a cream, and then add it very gradually to the hard-boiled yolks of six fresh eggs which have been cut into quarters, separated carefully from the whites, and pounded to a perfect paste; when these are blended into a smooth sauce add, a few drops at a time, some of the finest salad oil that can be procured, and work the mixture in the same manner as the mayonnaise of Chapter VI. until no particle of it remains visible: a small quantity of salt also must be thrown in, and sufficient good vinegar in very small portions, to give an agreeable acidity to the preparation. (Fresh lemon-juice might be substituted in part for this, and a little fine cayenne used with it; but though we suggest this, we adhere to our original Swiss receipt for this excellent dish, even when we think it might be slightly improved in flavour.)
Carve very neatly two delicate boiled fowls, and trim the joints into handsome form. Lay the inferior parts upon a large plate, and spread a portion of the sauce, which should be very thick, upon them; arrange them in a flat layer in the dish in which they are to be served; then sauce in the same way more of the joints, and arrange them symmetrically over the others. Proceed thus to build a sort of pyramid with the whole; and decorate it with the whites of the eggs, and the hearts of small lettuces cut in halves. Place these last round the base alternately with whole bantams’ or plovers’ eggs, boiled hard, a small slice must be cut from the large end of each of 617these to admit of their being placed upright. A slight branch of parsley, or other foliage, may be stuck in the tops. Roast chickens divested entirely of the skin, can always be substituted for boiled ones in a mayonnaise: they should all be separated into single joints with the exception of the wings. The quite inferior parts need not be used at all.
The same sauce rather highly flavoured with cayenne, and other condiments, and more or less, to the taste, with essence of anchovies or anchovy butter, and coloured with lobster-coral, will make an excellent fish-salad, with alternate slices of lobster,—cut obliquely to increase their size,—and of cold turbot or large soles. These can be raised into a high border or chain round a dish when more convenient, and the centre filled with young fresh salad, sauced at the instant it is sent to table.
A French mayonnaise does not vary much from the preceding, except in the composition of the sauce, for which see Chapter VI. It should always be kept very thick. A little rich cold white sauce is sometimes mixed with it.
TENDRONS DE VEAU.
The tendrons (or gristles) which lie under the flesh of the brisket of a breast of veal are much used in foreign countries, and frequently now in this, to supply a variety of the dishes called entrées. When long stewed they become perfectly tender, and yield a large amount of gelatine; but they are quite devoid of flavour, and require therefore to be cooked and served with such additions as shall render them palatable.
With a very sharp knife detach the flesh from them without separating it from the joint, and turn it back, so as to allow the gristles to be divided easily from the long bones. Cut away the chine-bone from their outer edge, and then proceed first to soak them, that they may be very white, and to boil them gently for several hours,[191] either quite simply, in good broth, or with additions of bacon, spice, and vegetables. Foreign cooks braise them somewhat expensively, and then serve them in many different forms; but as they make, after all, but a rather unpretending entrée, some economy in their preparation would generally be desirable. They may be divided at the joints, and cut obliquely into thin slices before they are stewed, when they will require but four hours simmering; or they may be left entire and braised, when they will require, while still warm, to be pressed between two dishes with a heavy weight on the top, to bring them into good shape before they are divided for 618table. They are then sometimes dipped into egg and bread-crumbs, and fried in thin slices of uniform size; or stewed tender, then well drained, and glazed, dished in a circle, and served with peas à la Française in the centre, or with a thick purée of tomatas, or of other vegetables. They are also often used to fill vol-au-vents, for which purpose they must be kept very white, and mixed with a good béchamel-sauce. We recommend their being highly curried, either in conjunction with plenty of vegetables, or with a portion of other meat, after they have been baked or stewed as tender as possible.
191. We think that in the pasted jar which we have described in Chapter IX., in the section of Baking, they might be well and easily cooked, but we have not tried it.
POITRINE DE VEAU GLACÉE.
(Breast of Veal Stewed and Glazed.)
When the gristles have been removed from a breast of veal, the joint will still make an excellent roast, or serve to stew or braise. Take out the long-bones,[192] beat the veal with the flat side of a cleaver, or with a cutlet-bat, and when it is quite even, cut it square, and sprinkle over it a moderate seasoning of fine salt, cayenne, and mace. Make some forcemeat by either of the receipts Nos. 1, 2, 3, or 7, of Chapter VIII., but increase the ingredients to three or four times the quantity, according to the size of the joint. Lay over the veal, or not, as is most convenient, thin slices of half-boiled bacon, or of ham; press the forcemeat into the form of a short compact rouleau and lay it in the centre of one side of the breast; then roll it up and skewer the ends closely with small skewers, and bind the joint firmly into good form with tape or twine. When thus prepared, it may be slowly stewed in very good veal stock until it is tender quite through, and which should be hot when it is laid in; or embedded in the usual ingredients for braising (see Chapter IX., page 180), and sent to table glazed, sauced with an Espagnole, or other rich gravy, and garnished with carrots à la Windsor (see page 335), or with sweetbread cutlets, also glazed.
192. This is very easily done by cutting through the skin down the centre of each.
BREAST OF VEAL. SIMPLY STEWED.[193]
193. We give here the English receipt of an excellent practical cook for “Stewed Breast of veal,” as it may be acceptable to some of our readers, After it has been boned, flattened, and trimmed, season it well, and let it lie for an hour or two (this, we do not consider essential); then prepare some good veal forcemeat, to which let a little minced shalot be added, and spread it over the veal If you have any cold tongue or lean of ham, cut it in square strips, and lay them the short way of the meat that they may be shewn when it is carved. Roll it up very tight, and keep it in good shape; enclose it in a cloth as you would a jam-pudding, and lace it up well, then lay it into a braising-pan with three onions, as many large carrots thickly sliced, some spice, sweet herbs, and sufficient fresh second-stock or strong veal broth to more than half cover it, and stew it very gently over a slow fire for three hours: turn it occasionally without disturbing the braise which surrounds it. Glaze it before it is sent to table, and serve it with Spanish sauce, or with rich English brown gravy, flavoured with a glass of sherry; and garnish it with stewed mushrooms in small heaps, and fried forcemeat balls.
Omit the forcemeat from the preceding receipt, and stew the joint tender in good veal broth, or shin of beef stock. Drain, and dish it. Pour a little rich gravy round it, and garnish it with nicely fried balls of the forcemeat No. 1, Chapter VIII., or with mushroom-forcemeat 619(No. 7). Mushroom-sauce is always an excellent accompaniment to a joint of veal. The liquor in which the breast is stewed or braised is too fat to serve as sauce until it has been cooled and cleared. The veal can be cooked without boning, but will have but an indifferent appearance. It should in that case be slowly brought to boil, and very gently simmered: about two hours and a half will stew it tender. The sweetbread, after being scalded, may be stewed with it for half the time, and served upon it.
Obs.—The breast without the gristles, boned and filled with forcemeat, makes a superior roast. It may also be boiled on occasion, and served with balls of oyster-forcemeat in the dish; or with white mushroom-sauce instead.
COMPOTE DE PIGEONS (STEWED PIGEONS.)
The French in much of their cookery use more bacon than would generally be suited to a very delicate taste, we think. This bacon, from being cured without saltpetre, and from not being smoked, rather resembles salt pork in flavour: we explain this that the reader may, when so disposed, adapt the receipts we give here to an English table by omitting it. Cut into dice from half to three quarters of a pound of streaked bacon, and fry it gently in a large stewpan with a morsel of butter until it is very lightly browned; lift it out, and put in three or four young pigeons trussed as for boiling. When they have become firm, and lightly coloured, lift them out, and stir a large tablespoonful of flour to the fat. When this thickening (roux) is also slightly browned, add gradually to it a pint, or something more, of boiling veal-stock or strong broth; put back the birds and the bacon, with a few small button-onions when their flavour is liked, and stew the whole very gently for three quarters of an hour. Dish the pigeons neatly with the bacon and onions laid between them; skim all the fat from the sauce, reduce it quickly, and strain it over them. The birds should be laid into the stewpan with the breasts downwards.
The third, or half of a pottle of small mushrooms is sometimes added to this dish. It may be converted into a compote aux petits pois 620by adding to the pigeons when the broth, in which they are laid, first begins to boil, a pint and a half of young peas. For these, a pint and a quarter, at the least, of liquid will be required, and a full hour’s stewing. The economist can substitute water for the broth. When the birds can be had at little cost, one, two, or more, according to circumstances, should be stewed down to make broth or sauce for the others.
Obs.—Pigeons are excellent filled with the mushrooms au beurre, of page 329, and either roasted or stewed. To broil them proceed as directed for a partridge (French receipt), page 290.
MAI TRANK (MAY-DRINK).
(German.)
Put into a large deep jug one pint of light white wine to two of red, and dissolve in it sufficient sugar to sweeten it agreeably. Wipe a sound China orange, cut it in rather thick slices, without paring it, and add it to the wine; then throw in some small bunches or faggots of the fragrant little plant called woodruff; cover the jug closely to exclude the air and leave it until the following day. Serve it to all May-day visitors. One orange will be sufficient for three pints of wine. The woodruff should be washed and well drained before it is thrown into the jug; and the quantity of it used should not be very large, or the flavour of the beverage will be rather injured than improved by it. We have tried this receipt on a small scale with lemon-rind instead of oranges, and the mixture was very agreeable. Rhenish wine should properly be used for it; but this is expensive in England. The woodruff is more odorous when dried gradually in the shade than when it is fresh gathered, and imparts a pleasant fragrance to linen, as lavender does. It grows wild in Kent, Surrey, and other parts of England, and flourishes in many suburban gardens in the neighbourhood of London.
A VIENNESE SOUFFLÉ-PUDDING, CALLED SALZBURGER NOCKERL.
At the moment of going to press, we have received direct from Vienna the following receipt, which we cannot resist offering to the reader for trial, as we are assured that the dish is one of the most delicate and delicious soufflé-puddings that can be made.
621(A) Take butter, four ounces; sugar in powder, three ounces; fine flour, one ounce and a half or two ounces; and the yellow of eight eggs; beat these together in a convenient sized basin till the mixture gets frothy. (The butter should probably first be beaten to cream.)
(B) Beat to snow the whites of the eight eggs.
(C) Take three pounds (or pints) of new milk, put it in an open stewpan over a gentle fire, and let it boil.
(D) Next, prepare a china casserole (enamelled stewpan—a copper one will do) by greasing its internal surface.
As soon as the milk boils, mix gently A and B together, and with a small spoon take portions of this shape and size and lay them over the surface of the boiling milk till it is entirely covered with them. Let them boil for four or five minutes to cook them; then put them in convenient order on the ground of the greased casserole (stewpan). Go on putting in the same manner small portions of the mixture on the surface of the boiling milk, and when cooked, place a new layer of them in the stewpan over the first; and continue the same operation until the mixture is all consumed. Take now the remainder of the milk, and add it to the beaten yellow (yolks) of two eggs, some sugar, and some powdered vanilla. Pour this over the cooked pastry in the stewpan, and set it into a gently heated oven. Leave it there until it gets brown; then powder it with vanilla-sugar, and send it to the table.
Author’s Note.—The preceding directions were written by a physician of Vienna, at whose table the dish was served. It was turned out of the casserole, and served with the greatest expedition; but we think it would perhaps answer more generally here, to bake it in a soufflé dish, and to leave it undisturbed. We would also suggest, that the yolk of a third egg might sometimes be needed to bind the mixture well together. A good and experienced cook would easily ascertain the best mode of ensuring the success of the preparation.
We must observe, that the form of the enamelled stewpans made commonly in this country prevents their being well adapted for use in the present receipt: those of copper are better suited to it.
Half the proportion of the ingredients might, by way of experiment, be prepared and baked in a tart-dish, as our puddings frequently are; or in a small round cake mould, with a band of writing paper fastened round the top.
The vanilla sugar is prepared by cutting the bean up small, and pounding it with some sugar in a mortar, and then passing it through a very fine sieve.
622The “cooked portions” of which the soufflé is principally composed are the shape, and about half the size of the inside of an egg-spoon. If somewhat larger, they would possibly answer as well.
623 INDEX.
Acton gingerbread, 552 Albert’s, Prince, pudding, 411 Almond, cake, 545 candy, 566 cream, for blamange, 478 macaroons, 544 paste, 367 paste, fairy fancies of, 368 paste, tartlets of, 367 pudding, 425 pudding, Jewish, 608 shamrocks (very good and very pretty), 574 Almonds to blanch, 542 chocolate, 568 to colour for cakes or pastry, 542 in cheese-cakes, 361 to pound, 542 in soups, 21 to reduce to paste, the quickest and easiest way, 542 Alose, or Shad, to cook, 79 American oven, 178 Anchovies, to fillet, 389 fried in batter, 84 potted, 306 curried toasts with, 389 Anchovy, butter, 138 sauce, 115 Appel krapfen (German receipt), 373 Apple cake, 362 calf’s-feet jelly, 464 Charlotte, or Charlotte de Pommes, 486 marmalade for Charlotte de Pommes, 487 custards, 482 dumplings, fashionable, 420 fritters, 384 hedgehog, or Suédoise, 480 jelly, 522 jelly, exceedingly fine, 523 juice, prepared, 456 pudding, 408 pudding, common, 409 sauce, 124 sauce, baked, 124 sauce, brown, 125 soup, 21 snow-balls, 421 tart, 363 young green, tart, 364 creamed tart, 364 Apples, baked compote of (our little lady’s receipt), 572 buttered, or Pommes au beurre, 488 624Apricots, compote of green, 457 Apricots dried, French receipt for, 517 to dry, a quick and easy method, 517 Apricot blamange, 479 fritters, 384 marmalade, 516 Arabian, or Turkish Piláw, Mr. Lane’s receipt for, 614 Artichokes, Jerusalem, à la Reine, 338 to boil, 326 en salade, 326 to remove the chokes from, 326 Jerusalem, to boil, 337 Jerusalem, to fry, 338 Jerusalem, mashed, 338 soup of, 19 Asparagus, to boil, 319 to serve cold (observation), 319 points, dressed like peas (entremets), 319 Aspic, or clear savoury jelly, 104 Arocē Docēe, or sweet rice à la Portugaise, 489 Arrow-root, to thicken sauces with, 106 to thicken soup with, 2, 4 Potato, 154 sauce (clear), 403 Bacon, to boil, 259 broiled or fried, 259 Cobbett’s receipt for, 252 dressed rashers of, 259 French, for larding, 254 lardoons of, 181 to pickle cheeks of, 254 genuine Yorkshire receipt for curing, 253 super-excellent, 256 Bain-marie, use of, 105 Baked apple-pudding, or custard, 437 apple-pudding, the lady’s or invalid’s, new, 608 apple-pudding, a common, 409 compote of apples, 572 minced beef, 207 round of spiced beef, 199 beet-root, 339 bread-puddings, 429, 430 calf’s feet and head, 178 custard, 483 haddocks, 73 ham, 258 joints, with potatoes, 179 mackerel, 70 marrow bones, 208 625mullet, 76 ox-cheek, 208 pike, 81 potatoes, 312 raisin puddings, 441, 442 salmon, 60, 179 smelts, 78 soles (or soles au plat), 66 soup, 178 sucking-pig, 250 whitings, à la Française, 68 Baking, directions for, or oven cookery, 178 Banbury cakes, 549 Bantam’s eggs, to boil or poach, 446, 449 Barberries, to pickle, in bunches, to preserve, 526 stewed, for rice-crust, 459 Barberry jam, a good receipt for, 526 jam, another receipt for, 527 superior jelly and marmalade, 527 and rice pudding, tart, 364 Barley-sugar, 564 Barley-water, excellent (poor Xury’s receipt), 583 Basket, wire, for frying, 177 Batter, French, for frying meat and vegetables, &c., 130 cod’s sounds fried in, 63 salsify, fried in, 341 spring fruit, fried in, 383 to mix for puddings, 397 Béchamel, 108 Beans, French, to boil, 321 à la Française, 321 another excellent receipt for, 322 Windsor, to boil, 322 Beef, à la mode, 192 breslaw of, 206 cake (very good), 190 to choose, 184 minced collops of, au naturel, 201 savoury minced collops of, 201 Scotch minced collops of, 202 richer minced collops of, 202 divisions of, 184 Dutch or hung, 197 extract of, Baron Liebig’s, 6 fillet of, braised, 180 fillet of, roast, 187 hashed, French receipt for, 206 cold, common hash of, 205 cold, excellent hash of, 205 collared, 198 collared, another receipt for, 198 gravy, Baron Liebig’s, 96 Norman hash of, 206 heart, to roast, 204 Jewish (smoked), 606 kidney, to dress, 204 kidney (a plainer way), 205 marrow, clarified for keeping, 208 marrow, to prepare for frying croustades, &c., 388 marrow-bones, to boil, 207 marrow-bones, baked, 208 minced, baked, 207 626palates (Entrée), 194 palates (Neapolitan mode), 195 Hamburg pickle for, 197 another pickle for, 197 ribs of, to roast, 185 roll, or canellon de bœuf, 201 miniature round of, 200 round of, to salt and boil, 196 round of, spiced, 199 round of, roast, 186 rump of, to roast, 186 rump of, to stew, 194 to salt and pickle, various ways, 196 common receipt for salting, 198 saunders of, 207 shin of, to stew, 192 shin of, for stock, 97 sirloin of, to roast, 185 sirloin of, stewed, 193 spiced (good and wholesome), 199 smoked, 606 steak, roast, 187 steak, stewed, 189 steak, stewed in its own gravy, 189 steaks, best and most tender, 185 steaks, broiled, 187 steaks, broiled, sauces appropriate to, 188 steaks, fried, 189 steaks, à la Française, 188 steaks, à la Française, another receipt for, 189 steak pie, 354 steak puddings, 399, 401 good English stew of, 191 German stew, 190 Stufato, 615 Welsh stew of, 191 tongue (Bordyke’s receipt for stewing), 203 tongue potted, 305 tongues (various modes of curing), 202 tongues, to dress, 203 tongues, Suffolk receipt for, 203 Beet-root, to bake, 339 to boil, 339 to stew, 340 Belgrave mould, 469 Bengal currie powders, 615 Bermuda witches, 491 Birthday syllabub, 581 Biscuits, Aunt Charlotte’s, 561 Captain’s, good, 560 Colonel’s, 561 cheap ginger, 560 Threadneedle-street, 560 wine, 560 Bishop, Oxford receipt for, 580 Black-cap pudding, 407 Black-caps par excellence, 460 Black cock, and gray hen, to roast, 291 Blamange, or blanc manger, apricot, 479 good common (author’s receipt), 476 calf’s feet, to make, 454 currant, 479 quince (delicious), 478 quince, with almond cream, 478 627rich, 477 strawberry (extremely good), 477 strengthening, 476 Blanc, a, 169 Blanch, to, meat, vegetables, &c., 182 Blanquette, of sucking pig, 250 of veal or lamb with mushrooms, 229 Boil, to, meat, 167 a round of beef, 196 Boiled, calf’s head, 210 chestnuts, 274 custards, 481 eels (German receipt), 83 fowls, 273 leeks, 318 rice, to serve with stewed fruit, &c., 422 rice-pudding, 419, 420 turnip radishes, 318 breast of veal, 218 fillet of veal, 217 knuckle of veal, 221 loin of veal, 218 Boiling, general directions for, 167 scientific, Baron Liebig’s directions for, 168 Bonbons, palace, 567 Bone, to, calf’s head for brawn, 24, 215 calf’s head, the cook’s receipt, 211 calf’s head for mock turtle soup, 24 a fowl or turkey without opening it, 265 a fowl or turkey, another mode, 265 fowls, for fricassees, curries, and pies, 266 a hare, 285 a leg of mutton, 236 a loin of mutton for pies, 355 a breast of veal, 618 a shoulder of veal or mutton, 219 neck of venison for pies, 352 Boning, general directions for, 182 Bottle Jack, 170 Bottled fruits, for winter use, gooseberries, tomatas, or tomata-catsup, 151 Boudin, à la Richelieu, 288 Boudinettes of lobsters, &c., 92 Boulettes, potato, 314 Bouilli, French receipt for hashed, 206 Bouillon, observations on, 9 Brain cakes, 162 another receipt for, 162 Braise, to burn, 180 Braised fillet of beef, 180 leg of mutton, 236 Braising, directions for, 180 Brandy, cherry (Tappington Everard receipt), 579 lemon, for flavouring sweet dishes, 153 peaches preserved in, 571 trifle, or tipsy cake, 274 Brandied morella cherries, 571 Brawn Brack, cake (Irish), 546 good, light, 554 Brawn, calf’s head (author’s receipt), 215 Tenbridge, 260 628Bread, Bordyke receipt for, 597 to know when baked, 604 Bavarian brown, Liebig’s, 599 brown, English, 599 crumbs, fried, 131 crumbs, to prepare for frying fish, 131 dairy, without yeast, 602 to freshen stale, 603 to fry for garnishing, 131 to fry for soups, 5 with German yeast, 598 home-made, remarks on, 594 household, 596 to keep, 603 partridges served with, 279 patties, 387 potato, 600 puddings, 418, 430 and butter puddings, 428, 429 rules to be observed in making, 596 sauce, 112 sauce with onion, 113 unfermented, 599 to purify yeast for, 595 Bream, sea, to dress, 75 Brioche paste, 349 Brill, to boil, 58 Broccoli, 326 Broiled beef steak, 187 bacon, 259 cutlets, mutton, 241 cutlets, pork, 251 eels with sage (German), 617 fowl, 274 mackerel, 71 red mullet, 76 partridge, 290 partridge (French receipt), 290 Broiling, general directions for, 175 Broil, the Cavalier’s, 240 Broth, or bouillon, 6 veal, or mutton, 44 Browned flour for thickening soups and sauces, 131 Browning, with salamander, 183 Brown, rich, English gravy, 99 apple sauce, 125 caper sauce, 121 chestnut sauce, 129 mushroom sauce, 123 onion sauce, 125 rabbit soup, 31 Brown to, with salamander, 183 Brussels sprouts, 340 Buns, light, of different kinds, 559 Exeter, 559 excellent soda, 561 Geneva, 601 Burdwan, an Indian, 612 Burlington Whimsey, 212 Burnt coffee, or gloria, 592 Buttered apples, 488 cherries, 490 Butter, anchovy, 138 burnt, or browned, 109 clarified, for storing and for immediate use, 110 629to cool for crust, 345 creamed, and otherwise prepared for cakes, 543 lobster, 138 melted, good common, 108 melted, French, 109 melted, rich, 108 melted, rich, without flour, 109 melted, white, 109 loin of lamb stewed in, 246 truffled, 139 Buttermilk, for bread, 602 Cabbage, to boil, 332 stewed, 333 red, to stew (Flemish receipt), 340 red, to pickle, 539 Café noir, 592 Cake, fine almond, 545 apple, 362 beef or mutton, 190 breakfast, French, 549 a cheap common, 555 cream cake, 554 thick, light gingerbread, 551 a good light luncheon cake, 554 cheap nursery, 555 a good Madeira, 548 pound, 546 rice, 546 sausage-meat, or pain de porc frais, 261 a good soda, 556 a good sponge, 547 a smaller sponge, 547 tipsy, 474 veal, 222 veal, good (Bordyke receipt for), 222 Venetian or Neapolitan (super-excellent), 547 white, 546 Cakes, Banbury, 549 to colour sugar candy for, 542 flead, or fleed, 558 cocoa-nut gingerbread, 552 common gingerbread, 553 richer gingerbread, 553 queen, 556 general remarks on, 540 very good small rich, 558 to prepare butter for rich, 543 to whisk eggs for light rich, 543 small, sugar, various, 558 small Venetian, 548 Calf’s head, à la Maître d’Hôtel, 214 boiled, 210 brawn (author’s receipt), 215 to clear the hair from, 210 cutlets of, 213 hashed, 213 a cheap hash of, 213 prepared, the cook’s receipt, 211 soup, 27 The Warder’s way, 211 Calf’s feet jelly (entremets), 461 another receipt for, 462 jelly, apple, 464 jelly, orange, 464 630modern varieties of, 463 to prepare for stock, 453 stewed, 228 stock, 453 stock, to clarify, 454 Calf’s liver, stoved or stewed, 228 roast, 229 sweetbreads, 227 Cambridge milk punch, 581 Candy, cocoa-nut, 566 ginger, 565 orange-flower, 565 orange-flower (another receipt for), 566 Canellon de bœuf, 201 Canellons, filled with apricot or peach marmalade, 385 of brioche paste, 385 Caper sauce, 121 sauce for fish, 121 Capillaire in punch, 580 Caramel, to boil sugar to, 563 the quickest way, 563 Carp, to stew, 82 Carrots, au beurre, 336 to boil, 335 in their own juice 337 mashed, or buttered (Dutch), 336 in plum pudding, 417 sweet, for second course, 336 the Windsor receipt (Entrée), 335 Carrot, soup, common, 20 soup, a finer, 20 Casserole of rice, savoury, 351 of rice, sweet, 438 Catsup, the cook’s, or compound, 149 lemon, 150 mushroom, 146,148 mushroom, double, 148 pontac, for fish, 150 tomato, 151 walnut, 149, 150 Cauliflowers, to boil, 325 French receipt for, 325 à la Française, 326 with Parmesan cheese, 325 Cavalier’s, the, broil, 240 Cayenne, vinegar, 153 Celery, boiled, 341 salad, to serve with pheasants, 341 sauce, 128 stewed, 341 Chantilly baskets, 474 Charlotte de pommes, or apple Charlotte, 486 à la Parisienne, 487 Chatnies (Mauritian), 144, 610 Cheese, damson, 520 in fondu, 379 Italian pork, 260 with maccaroni, 392 with maccaroni, à la Reine, 393 in ramakins, 375 to serve with white and maccaroni soup, 13 cheese-cakes, cocoa-nut (Jamaica receipt), 371 Madame Werner’s Rosenvik, 372 Cherries, brandied, morella, 571 631Cherries, compote of Kentish, 458 compote of morella, 458 morella, to dry, 504 dried with sugar, 502 dried without, 503 dried, superior receipt, 503 to pickle, 532 brandy, 579 cherry, cheese, 504 cherry, paste, 504 Chestnuts, boiled, 574 roasted, 574 stewed, 342 Chestnut forcemeat, No. 15, 162 sauce, brown, 129 sauce, white, 129 soups, 19 Chetney, various ways of making, 144 Chicken, broiled, 274 cutlets, 275, 276 fried, à la Malabar, 276 patties (good), 359 potato pasty, 350 Chicken pie (common), 353 modern pie, 353 Chickens, boiled, 273 fricasseed, 275 in soup, 29 China chilo of mutton, 241 Chocolate, almonds, 568 drops, 567 to make, 592 Spanish receipt for making, 592 Chops, lamb or mutton, broiled, 241 mutton, stewed in their own gravy (good), 240 pork, 251 Chorissa, or Jewish sausage, with rice, 607 Christopher North’s own sauce for many meats, 119 Cocoa, to make, 593 Cocoa-nut candy, 566 cheese-cakes, 371 in curries, 296 Doce, 490 gingerbread, 553 macaroons, 545 puddings, 424 soup, 19 Cod fish, to boil, 61 slices of, fried, 61 stewed, 62 stewed in brown sauce, 62 Cod’s sounds, to boil, 63 to fry in batter, 63 Coffee, to boil, 591 breakfast, French, 590 burnt, or coffee à la Militaire, vulgarly called Glosia, 592 to filter, 590 directions for making, 589 strong, clear, to serve after dinner, called café noir, 592 remarks on, 587 to roast, 588 roaster, 588 Cold, calf’s head, to re-dress, 214 632Cold, fowls, ditto, 276, 277 leg of mutton, ditto, 207 Maître d’Hôtel, sauce, 133 meat, excellent sauces to serve with, 133, 134, 136 salmon, to dress, 59 turbot, ditto, 59 Collops minced, au naturel, 201 savoury minced, 201 sauté-pan for frying, 176 Scotch, 226 Scotch minced, 202 Compote of apples, baked (our little Lady’s receipt), 572 of green apricots, 457 of bullaces, 458 of cherries, 458 of Kentish cherries, 458 of Morella cherries, 458 of green currants, 457 of red currants, 457 of damsons, 458 of figs, 492 of green gooseberries, 457 of magnum bonum, or other large plums, 458 of peaches, 459 of peaches, another receipt, 459 Compote de pigeons, 619 Compote de pigeons aux petits pois, 619 of Siberian crabs, 458 of spring fruit (rhubarb), 457 Confectionary, 562 Conjurer, a, its uses, 175 Consommé, 10 Constantia jelly, 467 Cookery (English), common causes of its failure, 167 Cool cup, a, 582 Corn, Indian green, to boil, 329 Counsellor’s cup, 585 Crab, cold, dressed, 88 hot, 89 Creamed tartlets, 375 spring fruit, or rhubarb trifle, 486 Cream, Chantilly basket filled with, 474 Cream cake, delicious, 554 crust, 347 Devonshire, or clotted, 451 jelly, filled with, 469 lemon, made without cream, 475 Nesselróde, 471 remarks on, 450 Swiss, 473 in soups, 19, 22, 29, 30 Creams, lemon (very good), 475 fruit, 475 Italian, 475 Crême à la Comtesse, or the Countess’s cream, 272 Crême, Parisienne, 479 patissiere, 373 Crisped potatoes, or potato-ribbons, to serve with cheese, 313 Croquettes of rice (entremets), 385 of rice, filled with preserve, of rice, savoury, 386 633Croustades, or Dresden patties, 387 of various kinds, 387 small, dressed in marrow, 388 small, à la bonne maman, 389 to prepare marrow for frying, 388 Croûte aux-champignons, or mushroom-toast, 330 Crust butter, for puddings, 398 cream, 347 flead, 347 French, for hot or cold meat pies, 347 excellent short, 349 rich short, for tarts, 349 Crust, common suet for pies, 348 very superior suet, for pies, 348 suet, for puddings, 398 Crusts, to serve with cheese, 398 Cucumber (author’s receipt), to dress, 323 soup, 38 vinegar, 152 Cucumbers à la Crème, 324 à la Poulette, 324 dressed, 323 fried, 324 stewed, 323 Curds and whey, 451 Currants, to clean for puddings and cakes, 397 green, stewed, 457 red, stewed, 457 Currant, blamange, 479 custard, 482 dumplings, 421 jam, red (delicious), 509 jam, white, 510 jelly, fine black, 511 jelly, French, 509 jelly, superlative red, 509 jelly, white, very fine, 510 jelly, tartlets, 375 paste, 510 pudding, 408 syrup, or sirop de groseilles, 579 Curried eggs 301 gravy, 302 maccaroni, 300 oysters, 302 toasts, with anchovies, 389 sweetbreads, 301 Currie, Mr. Arnott’s, 297 a Bengal, 298 a dry, 298 common Indian, 299 Currie powder, Mr. Arnott’s, 297 Curries, remarks on, 296 Selim’s (Capt. White’s), 300 Custard, baked, common, 483 a finer 483 currant, 482 the Duke’s, 482 the Queen’s, 481 veal, or a Sefton, 362 Custards, boiled, good, old-fashioned, 481 boiled, rich, 481 chocolate, 483 French, 484 quince, or apple, 482 Cutlets of calf’s head, 213 634Chicken, English, 275 of fowls, partridges, or pigeons (Entrée), 276 lamb, in their own gravy, stewed, 246 lamb, or mutton, with Soubise sauce, 246 mutton, broiled, 241 of cold mutton, 243 mutton, in their own gravy, stewed, 240 pork, 251 veal à la Française, 226 veal à l’Indienne, or Indian fashion, 225 veal à la mode de Londres, or London fashion, 226 veal, plain, 225 of sweetbreads, 227 Damson, cheese, 520 jam, 519 jelly, 519 solid, 519 pudding, 408 Des Cerneaux, or walnut salad, 141 Devonshire junket, 452 Dough nuts, Isle of Wight, receipt for, 556 Dresden patties, or croustades, 387 Dried apples, to stew, 572 apricots, French receipt, 517 cherries, with sugar, 502, 503 cherries, without sugar, 503 gooseberries, with and without sugar, 501 mushrooms, 153 plums (Pruneaux de Tours), to stew, 573 Dry, to apricots, a quick and easy method, 517 Imperatrice plums, 521 Mogul plums, 515 peaches or nectarines, 518 Duck, stewed, 279 Ducks, to roast, 279 stuffing for, No. 9, 160 wild, to roast, 294 Dumplings, apple (fashionable) 420 currant, light, 421 lemon, 421 Norfolk, 421 Suffolk, or hard, 421 Dutch, or hung beef, 197 custard, 438 flummery, 477 Eels, boiled, German receipt, 83 Cornish receipt, 84 to fry, 83 Egg balls, 162 sauce, for calf’s head, 111 sauce, common, 110 sauce, good, 110 a swan’s, to boil hard, 448 swan’s, en salade, 448 Eggs, to boil in the shell, 445 to cook in the shell, without boiling, 445 continental mode of dressing, or œufs au plat, 450 635Eggs, to dress Guinea fowls or Bantams, 416 to dress turkeys, 417 curried, 301 forced turkey’s or swan’s, 447 forced, for salad, 137 to preserve for many weeks, 444 poached, with gravy, 449 to poach, 449 to whisk, for cakes, 543 Elderberry wine, 584 Elegant, the Economist’s, pudding, 415, 428 lobster salad, 142 English, brioche, 349 brown gravy, 99 game pie, 352 puff paste, 346 stew, 191 Entrées, beef cake, 190 beef collops, 201 beef palates, 194, 195 beef roll, or canellon de bœuf, 201 beef steaks à la Française, 188, 189 beef tongues, 202 Bengal currie, 298 blanquette of sucking pig, 250 blanquette of veal or lamb, with mushrooms, 229 broiled mutton cutlets, 241 broiled ox-tail, 195 boudinettes of lobsters, shrimps, &c., 92 calf’s head à la Maître d’Hôtel, 214 calf’s head, the Warder’s way, 211 calf’s liver, stewed, 228 casserole of rice, 351 chicken cutlets, 275 chicken patties, 359 compote de pigeons, 299 curries, 297, 298, 299, 300, 301, 302, 615 croquettes of savoury, of rice, 386 croustades filled with mince, 387 cutlets of calf’s head, 213 cutlets of fowls, partridges, or pigeons, 275 Dresden patties, 387 fillets of mackerel, 71 fillets of mackerel in wine, 72 fillets of soles, 65 fillets of whitings, 68[194] fowls, à la Carlsfors, 273 fricandeau of veal, 223 fricasseed fowls or chickens, 274 fried chicken à la Malabar, 275 hashed fowl, 276 lamb cutlets in their own gravy, 246 lamb or mutton cutlets, with soubise sauce, 246 lobster cutlets, 91 lobsters fricasseed, 89 636loin of lamb stewed in butter, 216 minced fowl, 276 minced veal with oysters, 231 mutton cutlets in their own gravy, 210 mutton kidneys à la Française, 213 Oxford receipt for mutton kidneys, 214 oyster patties, 359 oyster sausages, 87 patties à la pontife and à la cardinale, 360 pork cutlets, 251 rissoles, 387 salmis of game, 292, 294 savoury croquettes of rice, 386 savoury rissoles, 387 sausages and chestnuts, 262 scallops of fowl au béchamel, 277 Sefton, a, or veal custard, 362 small pain de veau, or veal cake, 222 spring stew of veal, 224 stewed beef-steak, 189 stewed calf’s feet, 228 stewed duck, 278 stewed leg of lamb, with white sauce, 245 stewed ox-tails, 195 stewed tongue, 203 sweetbread cutlets, 227 sweetbreads, stewed, fricasseed, or roasted, 227 truffled sausages, or saucisses aux truffles, 263 veal cutlets, 225 veal cutlets or collops, à la Française, 226 veal cutlets à l’Indienne, or Indian fashion, 225 veal cutlets à la mode de Londres, or London fashion, 226 veal fricasseed, 231 minced, 230 vol-au-vent, 357 small vols-au-vents, 374 Entremets, apfel krapfen (German receipt), 373 apple cake, or German tart, 362 apple calf’s feet jelly, 464 Charlotte, 486 apple custards, 482 apple, peach, or orange fritters, 384 apple hedgehog, or Suédoise, 480 apple tarts, 363 apricot blamange, 479 arocē docē, or sweet rice à la Portugaise, 489 asparagus points, dressed like peas, 319 barberry tart, 364 Bermuda witches, 491 blamanges (various), 476-479 637Entremets, Black caps, par excellence, 460 boiled custards, 481 brioche fritters, 384 buttered cherries, or cerises au beurre, 490 calf’s feet jelly, 461, 463 canellons, 385 canellons of brioche paste, 385 cauliflowers à la Française, 326 cauliflowers with Parmesan cheese, 325 Chantilly basket, 474 Charlotte à la Parisienne, 487 chocolate custard, 483 cocoa-nut cheese cakes, 371 compote of peaches, 459 compotes (various) of fruit, 457, 458 constantia jelly, 467 creamed tartlets, 375 crême à la Comtesse, or the Countess’s cream, 472 croquettes of rice, 385 croquettes of rice, finer, 386 croustades, or sweet patties à la minute, 387 cucumbers à la crême, 324 cucumbers, à la poulette, 324 currant jelly tartlets or custards, 375 custards (baked), 483 custards (various), 481, 484 dressed maccaroni, 392 fairy fancies, 368 fanchonettes, 374 forced eggs, or eggs en surprise, 447 French beans à la Française, 321 gâteau of mixed fruits, 461 gâteau de pommes, 460 gâteau de riz, 433 gâteau de semoule, 430 genoises à la Reine, 366 German puffs, 484 Gertrude à la crême, 487 green peas à la Française, 320 green peas with cream, 321 imperial gooseberry fool, 480 Italian creams, 475 jaumange, or jaune manger, 477 Jerusalem artichokes à la Reine, 338 lemon calf’s feet jelly, 467 lemon creams, 475 lemon fritters, 384 lemon sandwiches, 374 lemon sponge, 480 lemon tartlets, 372 lobster au béchamel, 89 lobster salad, 142 Louise Franks’ citron soufflé, 378 Madame Werner’s Rosenvik cheese cakes, 372 Madeleine puddings, 432 Meringue of pears, 486 Meringues, 550, 551 mincemeat fritters, 383 mince pies, 369 638mince pies royal, 370 monitor’s tart, 370 moulded rice, or sago, and apple-juice, 422 mushroom-toast, 330 mushrooms au beurre, 329 Nesselróde pudding, 491 omlette aux fines herbes, 380 omlette soufflée, 381 orange calf’s feet jelly, 434 orange fritters, 384 orange isinglass jelly, 465 oranges filled with jelly, 466 pancakes, 382 pastry sandwiches, 374 plain common fritters, 381 pommes au beurre, or buttered apples, 488 potatoes à la Maître d’Hôtel, 315 potato boulettes, 314 potato fritters, 384 potato-ribbons, 313 potted meats, 303 prawns, 93 pudding-pies, 371 Queen Mab’s summer pudding,[195] 470 quince blamange, 478 ramakins à l’Ude, 375 raspberry puffs, 375 rice à la Vathek, 440 salad of lobster, 142 sea-kale, 316 sea-kale stewed in gravy, 316 scooped potatoes, 312 spinach à l’Anglaise, 317 spinach (French receipt), 316 stewed celery, 341 strawberry blamange, 477 strawberry isinglass jelly, 468 strawberry tartlets, 375 suédoise of peaches, 488 sweet carrots, 336 sweet casserole of rice, 438 sweet maccaroni, 490 Swiss cream, or trifle, 473 tartlets of almond paste, 367 tipsy cake, or brandy trifle, 474 tourte meringuée, 363 trifle (excellent), 473 truffles à l’Italienne, 331 truffles à la serviette, 331 turnips in white sauce, 334 Venetian fritters, 383 Vol-au-vent à la crême, 358 Vol-au-vent of fruit, 358 Vols-au-vent, small, à la Parisienne, 374 Epicurean sauce, 151 Eschalots, to pickle, 537 to serve with venison, 284 Eschalot sauce, mild, 127 vinegar, 152 wine, 153 Espagnole, or Spanish sauce, 100 with wine, 100 639Fairy Fancies (fantaisies de fées), 368 Fanchonnettes (entremets), 374 Fancy jellies, 469 Fermentation of bread, 604 Feuilletage, or fine puff paste, 345 Figs, stewed, 492 Fillets of mackerel boiled, 71 of mackerel, fried or broiled, 71 of mackerel stewed in wine, 72 of soles, 65 of whitings, 68 Fillet of mutton, 238 of veal au béchamel, with oysters, 215 of veal, boiled, 217 of veal, roast, 216 Finnan haddocks (to dress), 74 Fish, to bake, 55 boiled, to render firm, 54 brine, for boiling, 54 best mode of boiling, 53 to choose, 48 to clean, 50 cooking, mode of, best adapted to different kinds of, 51 fat for frying, 55 to keep, 51 to keep hot for table, 56 to know when cooked, 55 to sweeten when tainted, 51 salt, to boil, 62 salt, à la Maître d’Hôtel, 63 salt, in potato-pasty, 350 shell, dishes of, 85 Flead, or fleed crust, 347 Flavouring, for sweet dishes, 456 Flounders, to boil, and fry, 75 Flour, browned, for thickening soups, &c., 131 Flour of potatoes (fecule de pommes de terre), 154 of rice, 154 Fondu, a, 379 Forced turkeys’ or swans’ eggs, 447 turkey, 268 Forcemeats, general remarks on, 156 Forcemeat balls for mock turtle, No. 11, 161 chestnut, No. 15, 162 Mr. Cooke’s for geese or ducks, No. 10, 161 good common, for veal, turkeys, &c., No. 1, 157 another good common, No. 2, 157 French, an excellent, No. 16, 163 French, called quenelles, No. 17, 163 for hare, No. 8, 160 mushroom, No. 7, 159 oyster, No. 5, 159 oyster, finer, No. 6, 159 for raised, and other cold pies, No. 18, 164 common suet, No. 4, 158 superior suet, No. 3, 158 Fourneau économique, or portable French furnace, 494, 495 Fowl, a, to bone, without opening it, 265 to bone, another way, 265 640Fowl, to bone, for fricassees, &c., 266 to broil, 274 à la Carlsfors, 273 fried, à la Malabar (entrée), 276 hashed, 276 minced (French and other receipts), 277 minced, French receipt (entrée), 276 roast (French receipt), 273 to roast a, 272 scollops of, au béchamel, 278 Fowl-Guinea, to roast a, 273 Fowl, wild, 294 salmi of, 294 Fowls à la mayonnaise, 278 to bone, for fricassees, curries, and pies, 266 boiled, 274 cutlets of, English (entrée), 275 fricasseed, 275 cold, fritot of, 277 cold, grillade of, 278 French batter, for frying fruit, vegetables, &c., 130 melted butter, 109 breakfast cake, or Sally Lunn, 549 crust, for hot or cold pies, 347 receipt for boiling a ham, 258 Maître d’Hôtel sauce, 116, 117 rice pudding, 433 partridges, 290 semoulina pudding, 430 salad, 140 salad dressing, 140 salmi, or hash of game, 292 thickening, or roux, 106 beans, à la Française, 321 beans, an excellent receipt for, 322 beans, to boil, 321 Fresh herrings (Farleigh receipt for), 74 Fricandeau of veal, 223 Fried anchovies in batter, 84 bread-crumbs, 131 bread for garnishing, 131 canellons, 385 cod-fish, slices of, 61 Jerusalem artichokes, 338 mackerel, 70 parsnips, 337 potatoes, 313 salsify, 341 soles, 64 Fritters, apple, apricot, orange, or peach, 384 brioche, 384 cake, 382 lemon, 384 mincemeat (very good), 383 orange, 384 plain, common, 381 of plum pudding, 382 potato, 384 of spring fruit (rhubarb), 383 Venetian, 383 Fruit, to bottle for winter use, 522 creams, 475 en chemise, 570 isinglass jellies, 464-469 641to weigh the juice of, 498 directions for preserving, 496 remarks on preserved, 493 stewed, 456-459 tart, with royal icing, 363 Frying, general directions for, 176 Galantine of chicken, 266 Galette, 557 Game, to choose, 281 directions for keeping, 281 gravy of, 289 hashes of, 292, 294 Gar-fish, to broil or bake, 77 Garlic, mild ragout of, 126 vinegar, 152 Gâteau of mixed fruits, 461 de pommes, 460 de semoule, or French semoulina pudding, 430 de riz, or French rice pudding, 433 Geneva buns, or rolls, 601 Genevese sauce, 117 Genoises à la Reine, or her Majesty’s pastry, 366 German puffs, 484 pudding, 412 pudding sauce (delicious), 413 yeast, observations on, 598 Gertrude à la Crême, 487 Gherkins, to pickle, 532 to pickle, French receipt, 533 Ginger biscuits, cheap, 560 bread, 553 bread, Acton, 552 bread, cocoa-nut, 553 bread, thick, light, 551 candy, 565 oven cakes, 552 wine (excellent), 584 Glaze, to make, 104 Glaze, to, pastry, 345 Glazing, directions for, 182 for fine pastry and cakes, 345 Goose, to deprive of its strong odour, Obs: 271 to roast, 271 to roast a green, 271 Gooseberries, to bottle for tarts, 499 dried, with sugar, 499 dried, without sugar, 501 Gooseberry jam, red, 500 jam, very fine, 500 jelly, 500, 501 paste, 501 pudding, 435, 408, 420 sauce for mackerel, 120 Grape jelly, 520 Gravies, to heighten the colour and flavour of, 96 introductory remarks on, 84 shin of beef stock for, 97 Gravy, good beef or veal (English receipt), 99 Baron Liebig’s beef (most excellent), 96 rich brown, 99 642Gravy cheap, for a fowl, 101 another cheap, 102 curried, 302 Espagnole, highly-flavoured, 100 Espagnole with wine, 100 for a goose, 102 in haste, 101 jus des rognons, or kidney gravy, 101 orange, for wild fowl, 102 veal, rich, deep-coloured, 98 veal, rich, pale, or consommé, 97 for venison, plain, 99 for haunch of venison, 283 rich, for venison, 100 sweet sauce, or gravy, for venison, 100 soup, or stock, clear, pale, 10 soup, cheap, clear, 11 soup, another receipt for, 10 Gray hen, to roast, 291 Green goose, to roast, 271 mint sauce, 132 mint vinegar, 152 orange plum, preserve of, 514 peas, à la Française, 320 peas, with cream, 321 pea-soup, cheap, 40 peas-soup, excellent, 39 peas-soup, without meat, 39 Greengage jam, or marmalade, 515 Groseillée, 513 Ground rice puddings, 435 in pudding-pies, 371 Grouse, to roast, 292 salmi of, 292 Guava, English, 520 strawberry jelly, which resembles, 505 Guinea-fowl, to roast, 273 Gurnards, to dress in various ways, 74 Haddocks, baked, 73 to boil, 73 Finnan, to dress, 74 to fry, 73 Ham, to bake a, 258 to boil a, 256 to boil a (French receipt), 253 potted, excellent, 304 Hams, Bordyke receipt for, 256 to garnish and ornament in various ways, 257 to pickle, 254 superior to Westphalia (Monsieur Ude’s receipt), 255 genuine Yorkshire receipt for, 253 Hamburgh pickle, for hams, beef, and tongues, 197 another pickle, for hams, beef, and tongues, 197 Hare, to choose, 282 forcemeat for, No. 8, 160 sweet gravy for, 284 in pie, 352 potted, 307 to roast, 284 to roast, superior receipt, 285 soup, superlative, 32 soup, a less expensive, 32 643stewed, 286 Haricots blancs, 338 Harrico, Norman 224 Hashed bouilli, 206 calf’s head, 213 fowl, 276 venison, 284 Hash, a, of cold beef or mutton (excellent), 205 common, of cold beef or mutton, 205 cheap, of calf’s head, 213 Norman, 206 Haunch of mutton, to roast, 234 of venison, to roast, 282 Herrings, fresh (Farleigh receipt), 74 red, à la Dauphin, 84 red, common English mode, 84 Iced pudding, Nesselrôde, 491 Ice, advantage of, for jellies, fine paste, &c., 575 Ices, observations on, 575 currant, 576 raspberry, 576 strawberry, 576 Icing, for tarts, &c., 345 white or coloured, for fine pastry, or cakes, 543 Imperatrice plums, to dry, 521 very fine marmalade of, 521 Imperial gooseberry fool, 480 Imperials, 545 Indian Burdwan, 612 common currie, 299 curried fish, 615 lobster cutlets, 611 pilaw, 614 corn, to boil, 329 Ingoldsby Christmas pudding, 416 Ingredients, which may all be used in making soups, 1 Invalid’s, the, new baked apple pudding, 608 Irish stew, 242 Isinglass to clarify, 454 jelly, Constantia, 467 jelly, orange, 465 jelly, strawberry, and other fruit, 505-508 Italian creams, 475 jelly, 470 meringues, 551 modes of dressing maccaroni, 391-393 pork cheese, 260 Jack-bottle, 170 spring, 170 Jam, apricot, or marmalade, 516 barberry, 526 cherry, 502 currant, best black, 512 currant, black, 511 currant, red, superlative, 509 currant, white, a beautiful preserve, 510 damson, 519 gooseberry, red, 500 644gooseberry, very fine, 500 green gooseberry, 499 greengage, 515 of mixed fruits, 483 of Mogul plums, 515 peach (or nectarine), 518 raspberry, 506 raspberry, very good, red or white, 507 raspberry, very rich, 506 rhubarb, 498 strawberry, 504 Jaumange, or jaune manger, called also Dutch flummery, 477 Jellies, calf’s feet stock for, 453 to clarify calf’s feet stock for, 454 to clarify isinglass for, 454 fancy, 469 meat, for pies and sauces, 103 cheaper meat, 103 Jelly apple, 522 apple, exceedingly fine, 523 apple, calf’s feet, 464 barberry, 527 calf’s feet, 461, 462 calf’s feet, modern varieties of, 463 calf’s feet, strawberry, 468 lemon, calf’s feet, 467 orange, calf’s feet, 464 orange isinglass, 465 orange, very fine, 465 orange, Seville, very fine, 530 Constantia, 467 black currant, common, 511 black currant, fine, 511 currant, red, 508 currant, red, French, 509 red currant, superlative (Norman receipt), 509 currant, white, very fine, 510 damson, 519 green gooseberry, 498 ripe gooseberry, 500, 501 red grape, 520 guava, English, 520 to extract the juice of plums for, 497 mussel plum, 516 quince, 525 raspberry, 507, 508 rhubarb isinglass, 468 Siberian crab, 526 tartlets, or custards, 375 strawberry, very fine, 505 John Dories, small, baked (author’s receipt), 58 John Dory, to boil a, 58 Jewish almond pudding, 608 table, general directions for the, 609 cookery, remarks on, 606 sausage, or Chorissa, 607 smoked beef, 606 Julep, mint (American), 582 Jumbles, 556 Kale, sea, to boil, 316 stewed in gravy (entremets), 316 Kater’s, Captain, receipt for boiling potatoes, 312 645Kedgerse (an Indian breakfast dish), 612 Kentish, receipt for cutting up and curing a pig, 254 suet pudding, 407 Kidneys, mutton, à la Française, 243 mutton, to broil, 244 mutton, Oxford receipt for, 244 Kidney, beef, to dress, 204, 205 Kohl-cannon, or Kale-cannon (Irish receipt), 315 Lait, du, à Madame, 451 Lady’s, the, sauce for fish, 117 Lamb, cutlets, in their own gravy, 246 cutlets, with Soubise sauce, 216 cutlets of cold, 246 leg of, with white sauce, 245 roast loin of, 245 loin of, stewed in butter, 246 to roast a quarter of, 244 roast saddle of, 245 sauce for, 132 Landrail, to roast, 291 Lard, to melt, 248 to preserve unmelted, for many months, 248 to, a pheasant, 287 Larding, general directions for, 181 Larding-needles, 181 Lardoons, 181 Leeks, to boil, 318 Lemonade, delicious, milk, 583 excellent, portable, 583 Lemon, calf’s feet jelly, 467 creams, 475 dumplings, 421 fritters, 384 jelly, calf’s feet, 467 pickle, or catsup, 150 pudding, an excellent, 426 sandwiches, 374 sponge, or moulded cream, 480 suet pudding, 427 tartlets, 372 Lemons in mincemeat, 368, 369 to pickle, 534, 538 Lettuces, in mayonnaise of fowls, 278 stewed, 319 in salads, 140, 141 Liebig’s, Baron, directions for boiling, 53 for roasting, 171 beef gravy, 96 extract of beef, 6 Limes, to pickle, 538 Liver, calf’s, to roast, 229 stoved, or stewed, 228 Lobsters, to boil, 88 boudinettes of (author’s receipt), 92 Lobster, or crab, buttered, 89 butter, 138 cutlets (a superior entrée), 91 cutlets, Indian, 611 cold dressed, 88 fricasseed, or au béchamel, 89 hot, 89 patties, common, 359 patties, superlative, 359 646potted, 90 salad, 142 sausages, 91 Luncheon cake, 555 Macaroons, almond, 544 cocoa-nut (very fine), 545 orange-flower, 544 Macaroncini, to boil and to choose, 390 Maccaroni, Genoa, to boil, 391 Neapolitan, to boil, 391 ribbon (or lazanges), to boil, 391 to choose, and other Italian pastes, 390 to dress à la Reine, 393 to dress in various ways, 392 with gravy, 392 ribbon, 391 soup, 13 sweet, 490 Mackerel, to bake, 69 baked (Cinderella’s receipt, good), 70 to boil, 69 broiled whole, 71 fillets of, boiled, 71 fillets of, broiled or fried, 71 fillets of, stewed in wine (excellent), 72 fried (French receipt), 70 stewed with wine, 72 Madeira cake, 548 Madeleine puddings, to serve cold, 432 Magnum bonum plums, to dry or preserve, 515 Mai-Trank (German), 620 Maître d’Hôtel sauce, cold, 133 sauce, French, 116 sauce, maigre, 117 sauce, sharp (English receipt for), 116 Majesty’s, her, pastry, 366 pudding, 410 Mandrang, or mandram, West Indian receipt, 323 another receipt for, 323 Mangoes, lemon, 538 peach, 534 Marmalade, apple, for Charlotte, 487 apricot, 516 barberry, 527 Imperatrice plum, 521 orange (Portuguese receipt), 527 clear (author’s receipt), 529 orange, genuine Scotch receipt for, 528 peach, 518 pine-apple, superior (a new receipt), 513 quince, 524 quince and apple, 525 Marrow bones, baked, 208 to boil, 207 Marrow, clarified, to keep, 208 vegetable, to dress in various ways, 327 Mashed, artichokes, Jerusalem, 338 carrots, 336 parsnips (see turnips), 333 potatoes, 313 potatoes, crust of, for pasty, 350 turnips (an excellent receipt for), 333 647Mayonnaise, a delicious sauce to serve with cold meat, &c., 135, 136 French, 617 Swiss, 617 Mayor’s, the Lord, soup, 17 soup (author’s receipt for), 18 Meat, jellies for, pies, 104 pies, crust for, 347, 348 puddings, 399-401 rolls, excellent, 360 Mélange of fruit for rice-crust, 570 or mixed preserve, 513 Melon, to serve with meat, 325 sweet pickle of, to serve with roast meat (good), 534 Melted butter, 108, 109 Meringue of pears, or other fruit, 486 of rhubarb, or gooseberries, 485 Meringues, 550 Italian, 551 Milk, cocoa-nut flavoured, for sweet dishes, 456 lemonade, delicious, 583 remarks on, 450 Mild eschalot sauce, 127 mustard, 130 ragout of garlic, or l’ail à la Bordelaise, 126 Minced collops, 201 fowl, 276 veal, 230 veal, with oysters, 231 Mincemeat (author’s receipt), 368 superlative, 369 fritters, 383 Mince pies (entremets), 369 royal, 370 Miniature round of beef, 199 Mint julep, 582 sauce, 132 Mock, brawn, 260 turtle soup, 23 turtle soup, good old-fashioned, 26 Modern blanc-mange-mould, 476 cake-mould, 540 chicken pie, 353 jelly-mould, 470 potato pasty, 350 varieties of calf’s feet jelly, 463 Monitor’s tart, or tourte à la Judd, 370 Moor game, to roast and hash, 291, 292 Mould for French pies, or casseroles of rice, 344 Mull, to, wine, an excellent receipt (French), 581 Mullagatawny soup, 35 vegetable, 37 Mullet, grey, to boil, 76 red, to bake, broil, or roast, 76 Mushroom catsup, 146 catsup, another receipt for, 148 catsup, double, 148 forcemeat, 159 powder, 154 sauce, brown, 123 sauce, another, 123 sauce, white, 122 648Mushrooms, au beurre, 329 dried, 153 partridges with, 289 in pigeon pie, 354 pickled, in brine for winter use, 536 to pickle, 535 potted (delicious), 330 toast, or croûte aux champignons, 330 Mussel-plums, preserves of, 516 Mustard, to make, 130 mild, 130 Tartar, 155 another Tartar, 155 horseradish vinegar for ditto, 153 Mutton, broth, 44 to choose, 233 cutlets broiled, and Soubise sauce, 243 cutlets, to broil, 241 cutlets of, cold, 243 cutlets, stewed in their own gravy, 240 fillet of, roast or stewed, 238 haunch of, to roast, 234 kidneys à la Française (entrée), 243 kidneys, broiled, 244 kidneys, Oxford receipt for, 244 leg of, to boil (an excellent receipt), 237 leg of, boned and forced, 236 leg of, braised, 236 leg of, roast, 235 loin of, roast, 238 loin of, stewed like venison, 239 neck of, roast, 239 pie, common, 355 pie, good, 355 pudding, 401 saddle of, to roast, 235 shoulder of, broiled, 240 shoulder of, to roast, 239 shoulder of, forced, 240 a good family stew of, 242 stock for soup, 16 Nasturtiums, to pickle, 539 Nesselrôde cream, 471 pudding, 491 Norfolk biffins, dried, 572 sauce, 99 Norman harricot, 224 Normandy pippins, 572 Nougat, 564 Nouilles, to make, 5 Œufs au plat, 450 pochés au jus, 449 Old-fashioned boiled custard, 481 Oil, to fry salmon and other fish in (Jewish), 607 Olive sauce, 128 Omlette aux fines herbes, 380 soufflée, 381 Omlets, observations on, 380 Omlet, common, 380 King of Oude’s, 612 Onion sauce, brown, 125 sauce, brown, another receipt for, 125 sauce, white, 125 649Onion and sage stuffing for ducks and geese, No. 9, 160 rich white sauce of, or Soubise, 126 Onions, to pickle, 537 stewed, 342 Orange, baskets for jelly, 466 calf’s feet jelly, 464 conserve for cheese-cakes, or pudding, 501 fritters, 384 gravy, 102 isinglass jelly, 465 marmalade, 527, 529 plums, preserve of, 514 salad, 571 snow-balls, 420 wine, 585 Orange-flower, candy, 565, 566 Seville, paste, 568 filled with jelly in stripes, 466 Tangerine, 571 Oven, American, 178 management of, 595 objection to iron ones, 595 Oxford receipt for Bishop, 580 for mutton kidneys, 244 punch, 580 Ox-cheek, stuffed and baked, 208 Ox-tail, broiled (entrée), 195 stewed, 195 soup, 42 Ox tongue, to pickle, 202 potted, 305 Oyster forcemeat, No. 5, 159; No. 6, 159 patties, 359 sauce, common, 114 sauce, good, 114 sausages, 87 soup, white, or à la Reine, 30 Oysters, curried, 302 to feed, 85 to fry, 80 scalloped, à la Reine, 86 to scallop, 86 to stew, 86 to stew, another receipt, 87 Pain de pore frais, or sausage-meat cake, 261 Pain de veau, or veal cake, 222 Pain de veau (Bordyke receipt), 222 Palace-bonbons, 567 Palates, beef, to dress, 194, 195 Panada, 165 Pancakes, 382 to crisp, 130 fried, 130 Parsley green for colouring sauces, 129 Parsneps, to boil, 337 fried, 337 Partridge, broiled (breakfast dish), 290 broiled (French receipt), 290 French, or red-legged, to dress, 290 potted, 305 pudding, 401 soup, 35 Partridges, boiled, 289 with mushrooms, 289 to roast, 288 650salmi, or rich hash of, 292 salmi of (French), 292 Paste, almond, 367 brioche, 349 cherry (French), 504 currant, 510 gooseberry, 501 very good light, 346 English puff, 316 fine puff, or feuilletage, 345 quince, 525 Pastry, to colour almonds or sugar-grains for, 542 to glaize or ice, 345 icing for, 345 sugar-icing for, 543 her Majesty’s, 366 general remarks on, 344 sandwiches, 374 Pasty, potato, 350 varieties of, 351 mould for, 351 Pâte Brisée, or French crust for hot or cold pies, 347 Patties à la Pontife (entrées), 360 good chicken, 359 common lobster, 559 superlative lobster, author’s receipt, 359 oyster (entrée), 359 sweet boiled, 422 tartlets, or small vols-au-vents, to make, 361 Peach, fritters, 384 jam, or marmalade, 518 mangoes, 534 Peaches, compote of, 459 to dry, an easy and excellent receipt, 518 to pickle, 534 preserved in brandy (Rotterdam receipt), 571 stewed, 459 Suédoise of, 488 vol-au-vent of, 358 Pears, baked, 573 stewed, 573 meringue of, 486 Pearled fruit, 570 Peas, green, to boil, 320 green, with cream, 321 green, soup of, 39, 40 green, stewed, à la Française, 320 pudding, 401 soup, common, 41 soup without meat, 42 soup, rich, 41 Perch, to boil, 82 to fry, 83 Pheasant, boudin of, 288 cutlets, 275 to roast, 287 salmi of, 292 soup, 33, 34 Pickle, for beef, tongue, and hams, 197 Hamburgh, for pork, &c., 197 to, beet-root, 537 cherries, 532 eschalots, 532 651gherkins, 537 gherkins (French receipt), 533 limes, 538 lemons, 538 lemon mangoes, 538 melon, sweet (foreign receipt), 534 mushrooms in brine, 536 mushrooms (an excellent receipt), 535 nasturtiums, 539 onions, 537 peaches, and peach mangoes, 534 red cabbage, 539 walnuts, 536 Pickles, where to be procured good, 532 general remarks on, 531 Pie, beef-steak, 354 a common chicken, 353 a modern chicken, 353 a good common English game, 352 mutton, common, 355 a good mutton, 355 pigeon, 354 Pies, excellent, cream crust for, 347 French crust for, 347 suet-crust for, 348 meat jelly for, 92 mince, 369 mince royal, 370 pudding (entremets), 371 raised, 356 Pigeons, to boil, 280 to roast, 280 served with cresses, for second course, 280 Pig, divisions of, 247 Kentish mode of cutting up and curing, 254 to bake a sucking, 250 sucking, en blanquette (entrée), 250 to roast a sucking, 249 à la Tartare (entrée), 250 Pig’s cheeks, to pickle, 254 feet and ears, in brawn, 260 Pike to bake, 81 to bake (superior receipt), 81 to boil, 80 Pilaw, a simple Syrian, 613 Pine-apple marmalade, superior, 513 pudding-sauce, 405 pudding-sauce, very fine, 405 Pintail, or Sea Pheasant, to roast, 294 Pippins, Normandy, to stew, 572 Piquante sauce, 118 Plaice, to boil, 75 to fry, 75 Plate, hot, for cooking, 174 Plum-puddings, 416, 417, 441, &c. Plums, compote of, 458 Imperatrice, to dry, 521 Imperatrice, marmalade of, 521 Poêlée, 169 Poet’s, the, receipt for salad, 135 Polenta à l’Italienne, 393 Pontac catsup, 150 Poor author’s pudding, 442 Pork, to choose, 247 cutlets of, to boil or fry, 251 652Italian cheese of, 260 different joints of, 247 observations on, 247 to pickle, 254 to roast, 251 to roast a saddle of, 251 sausages of, 261, 263 Portable lemonade, 583 Potage à la Reine, 29 Pot-au-Feu, or stock pot, 8 fowls, &c., boiled in, 9 Potato-balls (English), or croquettes, 314 boulettes (good), 314 bread, 600 fritters, 384 flour, or fecule de pommes de terre, 154 pasty (modern), 350 puddings, 436 ribbons, to serve with cheese, 313 rissoles, French, 315 soup, 21 Potatoes, à la crême, 315 à la Maître d’Hôtel, 315 to boil, as in Ireland, 310 to boil (Lancashire receipt), 311 boulettes (entremets), 314 to boil (Captain Kater’s receipt), 312 crisped, or potato-ribbons (entremets), 313 fried (entremets), 313 mashed and moulded in various ways 313 new, in butter, 312 new, to boil, 311 remarks on their properties and importance, 309 to roast or bake, 312 scooped (entremets), 312 Potted anchovies, 306 chicken, partridge, or pheasant, 305 ham, 304 hare, 307 meats (various), 303 meat for the second course, moulded, 306 mushrooms, 330 ox-tongue, 305 shrimps, or prawns, 306 Poultry, to bone, 265 to bone, another mode, 265 to bone, for fricassees, &c., 266 to choose, 264 to lard, 181 Powder, mushroom, 154 of savoury herbs, 155 Prawns, to boil, 93 to dish cold, 93 to pot (see shrimps:306) to shell easily, 93 Prepared apple or quince juice, 456 calf’s head (the cook’s receipt), 211 Preserved fruit, general remarks on the use and value of, 493 Preserve, a fine, of red currants, 509 delicious, of white currants, 510 good common, 512 an excellent, of the green orange, or Stonewood plum, 514 653groseillée, a mixed, 513 another good mélange, or mixed, 513 nursery, 512 Preserve, to, the colour and flavour of fruit-jams and jellies, 497 Preserving-pan, 495 Preserves, French furnace and stewpan convenient for making, 494, 495 general rules and directions for, 496 Pruneaux de Tours, or compote of dried plums, 573 Prince Albert’s pudding, 411 Pudding (baked), à la Paysanne (cheap and good), 442 almond, 425 almond, Jewish, 608 apple or custard, 437 apple (the lady’s or invalid’s new), 608 Bakewell, 427 barberry and rice, 406 light batter, 443 good bread, 429, 430 common bread and butter, 429 rich bread and butter, 428 cake and custard, and various inexpensive, 437 curate’s, 442 the good daughter’s mincemeat, 426 Dutch custard, or raspberry, 438 the elegant economist’s, 428 Gabrielle’s, or sweet casserole of rice, 438 green gooseberry, 435 good ground rice, 437 a common ground rice, 435 Mrs. Howitt’s (author’s receipt), 426 an excellent lemon, 426 lemon-suet, 427 Normandy, 441 plum, en moule, or moulded, 424 poor author’s, 442 (baked) potato, 436 a richer potato, 436 the printers’, 424 the publishers’, 410 Queen Mab’s, 470 a common raisin, 441 a richer raisin, 442 raspberry, or Dutch custard, 438 ratafia, 427 cheap rice, 434 a common rice, 433 a French rice, or Gâteaux de riz, 433 rice, meringué, 434 richer rice, 434 rice, à la Vathek, 440 Saxe-Gotha, or tourte, 431 a good semoulina, or soujee, 430 a French semoulina (or Gâteau de semoule), 430 soujee and semola, 439 sponge cake, 436 vermicelli, 439 welcome guest’s own, 412 common Yorkshire, 440 good Yorkshire, 440 young wife’s (author’s receipt), 425 Pudding (boiled) à la Scoones, 416 654apple, cherry, currant, or any other fresh fruit, 408 a common apple, 409 the author’s Christmas, 417 common batter, 406 another batter, 406 batter and fruit, 407 beef-steak, or John Bull’s, 399 beef-steak, epicurean receipt for, 400 small beef-steak, 400 a black-cap, 407 Ruth Pinch’s, or beef-steak à la Dickens, 401 bread, 418 brown bread, 419 cabinet, 413 a very fine cabinet, 414 common custard, 411 the elegant economist’s, 415 German pudding and sauce, 412 Herodotus’ (a genuine classical receipt), 409 Ingoldsby Christmas, 416 Her Majesty’s, 410 mutton, 401 partridge, 401 peas, 401 small light plum, 416 Prince Albert’s, 411 the publishers’, 410 vegetable plum, 417 a very good raisin, 415 a superior raisin 415 a cheap rice, 420 a good rice, 419 rice and gooseberry, 420 rolled, 418 savoury, 399 Snowdon, 414 Kentish suet, 407 another suet, 408 the welcome guest’s own (author’s receipt), 412 a Kentish well, 417 Baden-Baden, 431 Puddings, general directions for baked, 423 to mix batter for, 397 general directions for boiled, 395 butter crust for, 398 cloths for, to wash, 366 suet-crust for, 398 to clean currants for, 397 Madeleine, to serve cold, 432 sauces for sweet, 402, 406 to steam in common stewpan, 397 Sutherland, or castle, 432 Pudding-pies, 371 a common receipt for, 371 Pudding sauces, sweet, 402-406 Puff-paste, canellons of, 417 English, 346 finest, or feuilletage, 345 very good light, 346 Puffs, German, 484 raspberry, or other fruit, 375 Punch, Cambridge milk, 581 Oxford, 580 655Punch, Regent’s, or George IV.’s (a genuine receipt), 582 sauce for sweet puddings, 402 Purée, fine, of onions, or Soubise sauce, 126 of tomatas, 328 of turnips, 127 of vegetable marrow, 127 Quenelles, or French forcemeat, 163 Queen cakes, 556 Queen’s custard, 481 Queen Mab’s pudding, 470 Quince blamange, 478 blamange, with almond cream, 478 custards, 482 jelly, 524 juice, prepared, 456 marmalade, 524 and apple marmalade, 525 paste, 525 Rabbits, to boil, 286 Rabbit, to fry, 287 to roast, 286 soup, à la Reine, 31 soup, brown, 31 Radishes, turnip, to boil, 318 Ragout, mild, of garlic, 126 Raisin puddings, 441, 442 wine, which resembles foreign, 583 Ramakins à l’Ude, 375 Raspberries, to preserve for creams or ices, without boiling, 506 Raspberry jam, 506 jam, red or white, 506 jelly, for flavouring creams, 507 jelly, another good, 508 vinegar, very fine, 578 Red cabbage, to stew, 340 Regent’s, or George IV.’s punch (genuine), 582 Remoulade, 137 Rhubarb, or spring fruit, compote of, 457 Rice, to boil for curries, or mullagatawny soup, 36 boiled, to serve with stewed fruit, &c., 422 cake, 546 casserole of, savoury, 351 casserole of, sweet, 438 croquettes of, 385, 386 savoury croquettes of, 386 puddings, 419, 420, 433-435 soup, 14 soup, white, 15 sweet, à la Portugaise, or arocē docē, 489 Rice flour, to make, 154 soup, 15 to thicken soups with, 4 Risotto à la Milanaise, 615 Rissoles, 387 very savoury, English (entrée), 387 Roasting, general directions for, 169 slow method of, 171 Roast beef (see Chapter X.) chestnuts, 574 656game (see Chapter XV.) lamb (see Chapter XII.) mutton (see Chapter XII.) potatoes, 312 pork (see Chapter XIII.) poultry (see Chapter XIV.) veal (see Chapter XI.) Rolled shoulder of mutton, 240 ribs of beef, 198 sirloin of beef, 198 Roll, beef, or canellon de bœuf, 201 Rolls, breakfast or dinner, 600 Geneva, 601 excellent meat, 360 Roux, or French thickening brown (for sauces), 106 white, 106 Rusks, sweet, 554 Rusks, 602 Sago soup, 14 Salad, to dress (English), 140 forced eggs for garnishing, 137 French, 140 of mixed summer fruits, 570 excellent herring (Swedish receipt), 143 lobster, 142 very elegant lobster, 584 orange, 571 peach, 570 the Poet’s receipt for, 135 Suffolk, 141 walnut, or des cerneaux, 141 Yorkshire ploughman’s, 141 dressings and sauces, 140 sorrel, 142 of young vegetables, 141 Salamander to brown with, 183 Salmi of moor fowl, pheasants or partridges, 292 French, or hash of game, 292 of wild fowl, 294 Salmon à la Genevese, 59 à la St. Marcel, 60 baked over mashed potatoes, 60 to boil, 59 crimped, 60 to fry in oil, 607 pudding (Scotch receipt), 60 Salsify, to boil, 341 to fry in batter, 341 Salt fish, to boil, 62 à la Maître d’Hôtel, 63 Salt, to, beef, in various ways, 196 Sandwiches, lemon, 374 pastry, 374 Sand-launce, or Sand-eel, mode of dressing, 77 Salzburger Nockerl, 620 Sauce (American), cold, for salads, salt fish, &c., 133 anchovy, 115 baked apple, 124 boiled apple, 124 brown apple, 125 arrow-root, clear, 403 657asparagus, for lamb cutlets, 120 béchamel, 107 béchamel maigre, 108 another common béchamel, 108 bread, 112 bread, with onion, 113 caper, 121 brown caper, 121 caper for fish, 121 celery, 128 brown chestnut, 129 white chestnut, 129 Chatney, capsicum, 144 Chatney, sausage, 609 Chatney, shrimp (Mauritian receipt), 144 Chatney, tomato, 609 Chatney (Bengal receipt), 146 Christopher North’s own (for many meats), 119 crab, 114 cream, for fish, 115 common cucumber, 121 another common cucumber, 122 white cucumber, 122 currants, 404 Dutch, 111 cold, Dutch, 133 common egg, 110 egg, for calf’s head, 111 very good egg, 110 English, for salad, cold meat, &c., 134 epicurean, 151 mild eschalot, 127 Espagnole, 100 Espagnole, with wine, 100 fricassee, 112 fruit, superior, 404 mild garlic, 126 Genevese, or sauce Genevoise, 117 German, for fricassees, 107 German cherry, 406 German custard pudding, 403 gooseberry, for mackerel, 120 horseradish, excellent, to serve hot or cold, with roast beef, 118-133 hot horseradish, 119 the lady’s, for fish, 117 common lobster, 113 Maître d’Hôtel, or steward’s sauce, 116 cold Maître d’Hôtel, 133 Maître d’Hôtel sauce maigre, 117 sharp Maître d’Hôtel, 116 Imperial mayonnaise, 136 mayonnaise, red or green, 136 mayonnaise (very fine), to serve with cold meat, fish, or vegetables, 135 mint, common, 132 mint (superior), for roast lamb, 133 strained, 132 brown mushroom, 123 another mushroom, 123 white mushroom, 122 Norfolk, 109 olive, 128 brown onion, 125 another brown onion, 125 658white onion, 125 Oxford brawn, 137 common oyster, 114 good oyster, 114 piquante, 118 common pudding, 402 delicious German pudding, 403 pine-apple pudding, 405 pine-apple syrup, 405 punch, for sweet puddings, 402 sweet pudding, 404 raspberry, 404 remoulade, 137 Robert, 118 shrimp, 115 common sorrel, 120 Soubise, 126 Soubise (French receipt), 126 Spanish, 100 sweet, for venison, 100 Tartar, 143 common tomata, 123 a finer tomata, 124 tournée, or thickened pale gravy, 105 excellent turnip, 127 very common white, 111 English white, 111 wine sauces, 402 French white, or béchamel, 107 vegetable marrow, fine, 127 velouté (obs.), 107 Sauces, to thicken, 105 green, for colouring, 129 Saucisses aux truffes, or truffled sausages 263 Saunders, 270 Sausage-meat, cake of, 261 in chicken-pie, 353 Kentish, 261 to make, 261, 262 pounded, very good, 262 boned turkey, filled with, 268 Sausages, boiled, 262 and chestnuts (an excellent dish), 262 common, 261 excellent, 262 truffled, 263 Sauté pan, for frying, 176 Savoury toasts, 390 Scientific roasting, 171 Scotch marmalade, 528 Scottish shortbread, excellent, 557 Sea-kale to boil, 316 stewed in gravy (entremets), 316 Sea-pheasant, or pintail, to roast, 294 Sefton, a, or veal custard, 362 Shad, Touraine fashion, 79 Shrimp sauce, 115 Shrimps, to boil, 93 boudinettes of, 92 potted, 306 to shell quickly and easily, 93 Sippets à la Reine, 5 fried, 4 Sirloin of beef, to roast, 184 Smelts to bake, 78 to fry, 77 659Snipes to roast, 293 Snow-balls, orange, 420 apple, 421 Soles, baked, or au plat, 66 baked, a simple receipt, 66 to boil, 64 to choose, 48 fillets of, 65 to fry, 64 stewed in cream, 67 Solimemne, a, or rich French breakfast cake, 549 Soufflé, Louise Franks’ citron, 378 cheese, 379 Soufflé-pan, 377 Soufflés, remarks on, 377 Sounds, cods’, to boil, 63 to fry in batter, 63 Soup, apple, 21 artichoke, or Palestine, 19 good calf’s head, not expensive, 27 Buchanan carrot, 46 common carrot, 20 a finer carrot, 20 carrot, maigre, 45 chestnut, 19 cocoa-nut, 19 cucumber, 38 fish, cheap, 46 des Galles, 28 clear pale gravy, or consommé, 10 another gravy, 10 cheap clear gravy, 11 superlative hare, 32 a less expensive hare, 32 in haste, 43 à la Julienne, 38 Mademoiselle Jenny Lind’s (authentic receipt), 16 the Lord Mayor’s, 17 the Lord Mayor’s (author’s receipt for), 18 maccaroni, 13 milk, with vermicelli, 44 mock turtle, 25 old-fashioned mock turtle, 26 mullagatawny, 35 vegetable mullagatawny, 37 mutton stock for soups, 16 ox-tail, 42 white oyster, or oyster-soup à la Reine, 30 parsnep, 22 another parsnep, 22 partridge, 35 common peas, 41 peas, without meat, 42 rich peas, 41 cheap green peas, 40 an excellent green peas, 39 green peas, without meat, 39 pheasant, 33 another pheasant, 34 potage aux nouilles, or taillerine soup, 14 potage à la Reine, 29 potato, 21 660rabbit, à la Reine, 31 brown rabbit, 31 rice, 14 cheap rice, 44 rice flour, 15 white rice, 15 sago, 14 sausage (Swedish receipt), 577 semola and soujee, 13 semoulina, 12 semoulina (or soup à la Semoule), 12 a cheap and good stew, 43 spring, 38 taillerine, 14 tapioca, 14 economical turkey, 33 common turnip, 21 a quickly made turnip, 21 turtle, mock, 23 mock turtle, old-fashioned, 26 vermicelli (or potage au vermicelle), 12 stock for white, 15 Westerfield white, 22 a richer white, 23 Soups, directions to the cook for, 2 to fry bread to serve with, 5 ingredients used for making, 1 nouilles to serve in, 5 mutton stock for, 16 to thicken, 4 time required for boiling down, 4 vegetable vermicelli for, 5 Spanish sauce, or Espagnole, 100 sauce, with wine, 100 Spiced beef, 199 Spinach, à l’Anglaise, or English fashion, 317 common English modes of dressing, 317 French receipt for, 316 green, for colouring sweet dishes, &c., 455 dandelions dressed like, 318 Sprouts, &c., to boil, 332 Steaming, general directions for, 172 Stewed beef-steak, 189 beef-steak, in its own gravy, 189 beet-root, 340 cabbage, 333 calf’s feet, 228 calf’s liver, 228 carp, 82 celery, 341 cod-fish, 62 cucumber, 323 eels, 84 figs, 492 fillet of mutton, 238 fruits (various), 456-459 hare, 286 lamb cutlets, 246 leg of lamb with white sauce, 243 loin of lamb in butter, 246 lettuces, 319 mackerel, in wine, 72 fillets of mackerel in wine (excellent), 72 mutton cutlets in their own gravy, 240 onions, 342 661ox-tails, 195 ox, or beef tongue (Bordyke receipt), 203 oysters, 86 sea-kale in gravy, 316 soles in cream, 67 tomatas, 327 trout, 80 turnips in butter, 334 turnips in gravy, 335 knuckle of veal, with rice or green peas, 221 shoulder of veal, 219 shoulder of venison, 283 Stew, a good English, 191 a good family, 242 a German, 190 an Irish, 242 baked Irish, 243 Spring stew of veal, 224 a Welsh, 191 Stew, to, shin of beef, 192 a rump of beef, 194 Stewing, general directions for, 173 Stewpan, copper, 181 Stock, clear pale, 11 for white soup, 13 mutton, for soups, 14 shin of beef for gravies, 97 pot, 169 Store sauces, 145-155 Strawberries, to preserve, for flavouring creams, &c., 506 Strawberry vinegar, 577 jam, 504 jelly, 505 isinglass jelly, 468 tartlets, 375 vinegar, of delicious flavour, 577 Stufato (a Neapolitan receipt), 615 Stuffing for geese and ducks, No. 9, 160 Cook’s stuffing for geese and ducks, 161 Suédoise, or apple hedgehog, 480 Suédoise of peaches, 488 Suet crust, for pies, superior, 348 common, 348 Sugar glazings, and icings, for fine pastry and cakes, 543 barley, 564 grains, to colour, for cakes, &c., 542 to boil, from candy to caramel, 563 to clarify, 562 Swan’s egg, to boil, 448 forced, 447 en salade, 448 Sweetbreads, to dress, 227 à la Maître d’Hôtel, 227 cutlets, 227 small entrées of, 232 roasted, 215 Sweet, patties à la minute, 387 Syllabub, a birthday, 581 Syllabubs, superior whipped, 476 Syrup, fine currant, or sirop de groseilles, 579 662Tamarinds, acid, in curries, 296 Tapioca soup, 14 Tarragon vinegar, 151 Tart, a good apple, 363 young green apple, 364 barberry, 364 German, 362 the monitor’s, 370 Tartlets, of almond paste, 367 creamed, 375 jelly, or custards, 375 to make, 361 lemon, 372 strawberry, 375 Tarts, to ice, 345 Tench, to fry, 83 Thickening for sauces, French, 106 Tipsy cake, 474 Toasting, directions for, 183 Toffee, Everton, 567 another way, 567 Tomata catsup, 151 sauces, 123, 124 Tomatas, forced, 327 forced (French receipt), 328 purée of, 328 roast, 327 en salade, 327 stewed, 327 Tongue, to boil, 203 to stew, 203 Tongues, to pickle, 197 Tourte, à la châtelaine, 364 the lady’s, 364 meringuée, or with royal icing, 363 Trifle, brandy, or tipsy cake, 474 an excellent, 473 Swiss, very good, 473 Trout, to stew (a good common receipt), 80 in wine, 80 Truffled butter, 139 sausages, 263 Truffles and their uses, 331 à l’Italienne, 332 à la serviette, 232 to prepare for use, 332 Turbot, to boil, 56 au béchamel, 57 cold, with shrimp chatney, 144 à la crême, 57 Turkey, to boil, 267 boned and forced, 268 to bone, 265 à la Flamande, 270 to roast, 267 poult, to roast, 270 Turkeys’ eggs, to dress, 447 forced (excellent entremets) 447 poached, 449 sauce of, 110 Turnip-radishes, to boil, 318 soup, economical, 33 Turnips, to boil, 333 to mash, 333 stewed in butter, 334 in gravy, 335 in white sauce 334 663Vanilla in cream, pudding, &c., 410 Veal, blanquette of, with mushrooms, 229 boiled breast of, 218 roast breast of, 219 breast of, simply stewed, 618 (see note) breast of, stewed and glazed, 618 cake, Bordyke, 222 cake, small pain de veau, or veal, 222 to choose, 209 Scotch collops of, 226 custard, or Sefton, 362 cutlets, 225 cutlets, or collops, à la Française, 226 cutlets, à l’Indienne, or Indian fashion, 225 cutlets, à la mode de Londres, or London fashion, 226 divisions of, 209 boiled fillet of, 217 roast fillet of, 216 fillet of, au bechamel, with oysters, 216 fricandeau of, 223 fricasseed, 231 goose (City of London receipt), 220 Norman harrico of, 224 boiled knuckle of, 221 knuckle of, en ragout, 221 knuckle of, with rice or green peas, 221 boiled loin of, 218 roast loin of, 217 stewed loin of, 218 minced, 230 minced, with oysters (or mushrooms), 231 neck of, à la crême, 220 neck of, roast, 220 to bone a shoulder of, 219 stewed shoulder of, 219 spring stew of, 224 Sydney, 231 Vegetable marrow, to boil, fry, mash, 327 vermicelli, 6 Vegetables, to boil green, 309 to clear insects from, 309 remarks on, 308 Venetian cake (super excellent), 547 fritters (very good), 383 Venison, to choose, 281 collops and cutlets, 284 to hash, 284 to roast a haunch of, 282 in pie, 352 664sauces for, 295 to stew a loin of mutton like, 239 to stew a shoulder of, 283 Vermicelli pudding, 439 soup, 12 Viennese pudding, or Salzburger Nockerl, 620 Vinegar, cayenne, 153 celery, 152 cucumber, 152 eschalot, or garlic, 152 horseradish, 153 green mint, 152 raspberry (very fine), 578 strawberry (delicious), 577 tarragon, 151 Vol-au-vent, a, 357 à la crème, 358 of fruit, 358 Vols-au-vents, à la Parisienne, 374 small, to make, 361 Walnut catsup, 149-150 Walnuts, to pickle, 536 salad of, 141 Water Souchy (Greenwich receipt), 78 White bait (Greenwich receipt), 78 Whitings baked, À la Française, 68 baked (Cinderella’s receipt), 70 to boil, 68 to fry, 67 fillets of, 68 Wild ducks, to roast, and their season, 294 salmi, or hash of, 294 Wild fowl, its season, 294 Wine, elderberry (good), 584 eschalot, 153 ginger, 584 to mull (an excellent French receipt), 581 orange, 585 raisin, which resembles foreign, 583 Wine-vase, antique, 577 Wire lining for frying-pan, 177 Woodcocks, or snipes, to roast, 293 Woodruff, in Mai Trank, 620 Yorkshire ploughman’s salad, 315 pudding, common, 441 pudding, good, 440 Regent potatoes, their excellence, 311
[TN: Footnote text is not allowed within the range of the Index. Footnote 194 is referenced from the entry for “fillets of whitings”. Footnote 195 is referenced from the entry for “Queen Mab’s summer pudding”.
Clicking on the footnote numbers below will take you to the index entries that reference these footnotes.]
194. Though not included in this list, all sweet puddings are served as entremets, except they replace the roasts of the second course.
195. Fish is not usually served as an entrée in a common English dinner; it is, however, very admissible, either in fillets, or scallops, in a currie, or in a vol-au-vent. Various circumstances must determine much of the general arrangement of a dinner, the same dishes answering at times for different parts of the service. For example, a fowl may be served as the roast for a small company, and for a large one as an entrée. For a plain family dinner, too, many dishes may be served in a different order to that which is set down.
Woodfall and Kinder, Printers, Milford Lane, Strand, London, W.C.
666APRIL 1885.
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ASTRONOMY, METEOROLOGY, GEOGRAPHY, &c.
Freeman’s Historical Geography of Europe. 2 vols. 8vo. 31s. 6d. Herschel’s Outlines of Astronomy. Square crown 8vo. 12s. Keith Johnston’s Dictionary of Geography, or General Gazetteer. 8vo. 42s. Merrifield’s Treatise on Navigation. Crown 8vo. 5s. Nelson’s Work on the Moon. Medium 8vo. 31s. 6d. Proctor’s Essays on Astronomy. 8vo. 12s. Proctor’s Moon. Crown 8vo. 10s. 6d. —— Larger Star Atlas. Folio, 15s. or Maps only, 12s. 6d. —— Myths and Marvels of Astronomy. Crown 8vo. 6s. —— New Star Atlas. Crown 8vo. 5s. Orbs Around Us. Crown 8vo. 7s. 6d. —— Other Worlds than Ours. Crown 8vo. 10s. 6d. —— Sun. Crown 8vo. 14s. Universe of Stars. 8vo. 10s. 6d. —— Transits of Venus, 8vo. 8s. 6d. Studies of Venus-Transits, 8vo. 5s. Smith’s Air and Rain. 8vo. 24s. The Public Schools Atlas of Ancient Geography. Imperial 8vo. 7s. 6d. —— —— —— Modern Geography. Imperial 8vo. 5s. —— —— Historical Atlas. 4to. 5s. Webb’s Celestial Objects for Common Telescopes. Crown 8vo. 9s. —— The Sun and his Phenomena. Fcp. 8vo. 1s.
NATURAL HISTORY & POPULAR SCIENCE.
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THE ‘KNOWLEDGE’ LIBRARY. Edited by Richard A. Proctor.
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CHEMISTRY AND PHYSIOLOGY.
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THE FINE ARTS AND ILLUSTRATED EDITIONS.
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THE USEFUL ARTS, MANUFACTURES, &c.
Bourne’s Catechism of the Steam Engine. Crown 8vo. 7s. 6d. —— Examples of Steam, Air, and Gas Engines. 4to. 70s. —— Handbook of the Steam Engine. Fcp. 8vo. 9s. —— Recent Improvements in the Steam Engine. Fcp. 8vo. 6s. —— Treatise on the Steam Engine. 4to. 42s. Cresy’s Encyclopædia of Civil Engineering. 8vo. 25s. Culley’s Handbook of Practical Telegraphy. 8vo. 16s. Eastlake’s Household Taste in Furniture, &c. Square crown 8vo. 14s. Fairbairn’s Useful Information for Engineers. 3 vols. crown 8vo. 31s. 6d. —— Mills and Millwork. 1 vol. 8vo. 25s. Gwilt’s Encyclopædia of Architecture. 8vo. 52s. 6d. Kerl’s Metallurgy, adapted by Crookes and Röhrig. 3 vols. 8vo. £4. 19s. Loudon’s Encyclopædia of Agriculture. 8vo. 21s. —— —— —— Gardening. 8vo. 21s. Mitchell’s Manual of Practical Assaying. 8vo. 31s. 6d. Northcott’s Lathes and Turning. 8vo. 18s. Payen’s Industrial Chemistry. Edited by B. H. Paul, Ph.D. 8vo. 42s. Piesse’s Art of Perfumery. Fourth Edition. Square crown 8vo. 21s. Sennett’s Treatise on the Marine Steam Engine. 8vo. 21s. Ure’s Dictionary of Arts, Manufactures, and Mines. 4 vols. medium 8vo. £7. 7s. Ville on Artificial Manures. By Crookes. 8vo. 21s.
674RELIGIOUS AND MORAL WORKS.
Abbey & Overton’s English Church in the Eighteenth Century. 2 vols. 8vo. 36s. Arnold’s (Rev. Dr. Thomas) Sermons. 6 vols. crown 8vo. 5s. each. Bishop Jeremy Taylor’s Entire Works. With Life by Bishop Heber. Edited by the Rev. C. P. Eden. 10 vols. 8vo. £5. 5s. Boultbee’s Commentary on the 39 Articles. Crown 8vo. 6s. — History of the Church of England, Pre-Reformation Period. 8vo. 15s. Bray’s Elements of Morality. Pep. 8vo. 2s. 6d. Browne’s (Bishop) Exposition of the 39 Articles. 8vo. 16s. Calvert’s Wife’s Manual. Crown 8vo. 6s. Christ our Ideal. 8vo. 8s. 6d. Colenso’s Lectures on the Pentateuch and the Moabite Stone. 8vo. 12s. Colenso on the Pentateuch and Book of Joshua. Crown 8vo. 6s. Conder’s Handbook of the Bible. Post 8vo. 7s. 6d. Conybeare & Howson’s Life and Letters of St. Paul:— Library Edition, with all the Original Illustrations, Maps, Landscapes on Steel, Woodcuts, &c. 2 vols. 4to. 42s. Intermediate Edition, with a Selection of Maps, Plates, and Woodcuts. 2 vols. square crown 8vo. 21s. Student’s Edition, revised and condensed, with 46 Illustrations and Maps. 1 vol. crown 8vo. 7s. 6d. Creighton’s History of the Papacy during the Reformation. 2 vols. 8vo. 32s. Davidson’s Introduction to the Study of the New Testament. 2 vols. 8vo. 30s. Edersheim’s Life and Times of Jesus the Messiah. 2 vols. 8vo. 42s. —— Prophecy and History in relation to the Messiah. 8vo. 12s. Ellicott’s (Bishop) Commentary on St. Paul’s Epistles. 8vo. Galatians, 8s. 6d. Ephesians, 8s. 6d. Pastoral Epistles, 10s. 6d. Philippians, Colossians and Philemon, 10s. 6d. Thessalonians, 7s. 6d. Ellicott’s Lectures on the Life of our Lord. 8vo. 12s. Ewald’s Antiquities of Israel, translated by Solly. 8vo. 12s. 6d. —— History of Israel, translated by Carpenter & Smith. Vols. 1-7, 8vo. £5. Gospel (The) for the Nineteenth Century. 4th Edition. 8vo. 10s. 6d. Hopkins’s Christ the Consoler. Pep. 8vo. 2s. 6d. Jukes’s New Man and the Eternal Life. Crown 8vo. 6s. —— Second Death and the Restitution of all Things. Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d. —— Types of Genesis. Crown 8vo. 7s. 6d. —— The Mystery of the Kingdom. Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d. Lyra Germanica: Hymns translated by Miss Winkworth. Fcp. 8vo. 5s. Macdonald’s (G.) Unspoken Sermons. Second Series. Crown 8vo. 7s. 6d. —— —— A Book of Strife: in the Form of the Diary of an Old Soul: Poems. 12mo. 6s. Manning’s Temporal Mission of the Holy Ghost. Crown 8vo. 8s. 6d. Martineau’s Endeavours after the Christian Life. Crown 8vo. 7s. 6d. —— Hymns of Praise and Prayer. Crown 8vo. 4s. 6d. 32mo. 1s. 6d. —— Sermons, Hours of Thought on Sacred Things. 2 vols. 7s. 6d. each. Mill’s Three Essays on Religion. 8vo. 10s. 6d. Monsell’s Spiritual Songs for Sundays and Holidays. Fcp. 8vo. 5s. 18mo. 2s. Müller’s (Max) Origin and Growth of Religion. Crown 8vo. 7s. 6d. —— —— Science of Religion. Crown 8vo. 7s. 6d. 675Newman’s Apologia pro Vitâ Suâ. Crown 8vo. 6s. —— The Idea of a University Defined and Illustrated. Crown 8vo. 7s. —— Historical Sketches. 3 vols. crown 8vo. 6s. each. —— Discussions and Arguments on Various Subjects. Crown 8vo. 6s. —— An Essay on the Development of Christian Doctrine. Crown 8vo. 6s. —— Certain Difficulties Felt by Anglicans in Catholic Teaching Considered. Vol. 1, crown 8vo. 7s. 6d.; Vol. 2, crown 8vo. 5s. 6d. —— The Via Media of the Anglican Church, Illustrated in Lectures, &c. 2 vols. crown 8vo. 6s. each. —— Essays, Critical and Historical. 2 vols. crown 8vo. 12s. —— Essays on Biblical and on Ecclesiastical Miracles. Crown 8vo. 6s. —— An Essay in Aid of a Grammar of Assent. 7s. 6d. Sewell’s (Miss) Passing Thoughts on Religion. Fcp. 8vo. 3s. 6d. —— —— Preparation for the Holy Communion. 32mo. 3s. Seymour’s Hebrew Psalter. Crown 8vo. 2s. 6d. Smith’s Voyage and Shipwreck of St. Paul. Crown 8vo. 7s. 6d. Supernatural Religion. Complete Edition. 3 vols. 8vo,. 36s. Whately’s Lessons on the Christian Evidences. 18mo. 6d. White’s Four Gospels in Greek, with Greek-English Lexicon. 32mo. 5s.
TRAVELS, VOYAGES, &c.
Aldridge’s Ranch Notes in Kansas, Colorado, &c. Crown 8vo. 5s. Baker’s Eight Years in Ceylon. Crown 8vo. 5s. —— Rifle and Hound in Ceylon. Crown 8vo. 5s. Ball’s Alpine Guide. 3 vols. post 8vo. with Maps and Illustrations:— I. Western Alps, 6s. 6d. II. Central Alps, 7s. 6d. III. Eastern Alps, 10s. 6d. Ball on Alpine Travelling, and on the Geology of the Alps, 1s. Bent’s The Cyclades, or Life among the Insular Greeks. Crown 8vo. 12s. 6d. Brassey’s Sunshine and Storm in the East. Crown 8vo. 7s. 6d. —— Voyage in the Yacht ‘Sunbeam.’ Crown 8vo. 7s. 6d. School Edition, fcp. 8vo. 2s. Popular Edition, 4to. 6d. —— In the Trades, the Tropics, and the ‘Roaring Forties.’ Edition de Luxe, Map, 8vo. £3. 13s. 6d. Library Edition, 8vo. 21s. Crawford’s Across the Pampas and the Andes. Crown 8vo. 7s. 6d. Dent’s Above the Snow Line. Crown 8vo. 7s. 6d. Freeman’s Impressions of the United States of America. Crown 8vo. 6s. Hassall’s San Remo Climatically considered. Crown 8vo. 5s. Maritime Alps (The) and their Seaboard. By the Author of ‘Vèra.’ 8vo. 21s. Miller’s Wintering in the Riviera. Post 8vo. Illustrations, 7s. 6d. The Alpine Club Map of Switzerland. In Four Sheets. 42s. Three in Norway. By Two of Them. Crown 8vo. Illustrations, 6s.
WORKS OF FICTION.
Antinous: an Historical Romance of the Roman Empire. Crown 8vo. 6s. Black Poodle (The) and other Tales. By the Author of ‘Vice Versâ.’ Cr. 8vo. 6s. Cabinet Edition of Novels and Tales by the Earl of Beaconsfield, K.G. 11 vols. crown 8vo. price 6s. each. Cabinet Edition of Stories and Tales by Miss Sewell. Crown 8vo. cloth extra gilt edges, price 3s. 6d. each:— Amy Herbert. Cleve Hall. The Earl’s Daughter. Experience of Life. Gertrude. Ivors. A Glimpse of the World. Katharine Ashton. Laneton Parsonage. Margaret Percival. Ursula. Harte (Bret) On the Frontier. Three Stories. 16mo. 1s. 676Novels and Tales by the Earl of Beaconsfield, K.G. Hughenden Edition, with 2 Portraits on Steel and 11 Vignettes on Wood. 11 vols. crown 8vo. £2. 2s. The Modern Novelist’s Library. Each Work in crown 8vo. A Single Volume, complete in itself, price 2s. boards, or 2s. 6d. cloth:—
By the Earl of Beaconsfield, K.G. Lothair. Coningsby. Sybil. Tancred. Venetia. Henrietta Temple. Contarini Fleming. Alroy, Ixion, &c. The Young Duke, &c. Vivian Grey. Endymion. By Bret Harte. In the Carquinez Woods. By Mrs. Oliphant. In Trust, the Story of a Lady and her Lover. By James Payn. Thicker than Water. By Anthony Trollope. Barchester Towers. The Warden. By Major Whyte-Melville. Digby Grand. General Bounce. Kate Coventry. The Gladiators. Good for Nothing. Holmby House. The Interpreter. The Queen’s Maries. By Various Writers. The Atelier du Lys. Atherstone Priory. The Burgomaster’s Family. Elsa and her Vulture. Mademoiselle Mori. The Six Sisters of the Valleys. Unawares. In the Olden Time. By the Author of ‘Mademoiselle Mori.’ Crown 8vo. 6s. Oliphant’s (Mrs.) Madam. Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d. Sturgis’ My Friend and I. Crown 8vo. 5s.
POETRY AND THE DRAMA.
Bailey’s Festus, a Poem. Crown. 8vo. 12s. 6d. Bowdler’s Family Shakespeare. Medium 8vo. 14s. 6 vols. fcp. 8vo. 21s. Conington’s Æneid of Virgil, translated into English Verse. Crown 8vo. 9s. —— Prose Translation of Virgil’s Poems. Crown 8vo. 9s. Dante’s Divine Comedy, translated by James Innes Minchin. Crown 8vo. 15s. Goethe’s Faust, translated by Birds. Large crown 8vo. 12s. 6d. —— —— translated by Webb. 8vo. 12s. 6d. —— —— edited by Selss. Crown 8vo. 5s. Homer’s Iliad, Greek Text with Verse Translation by W. C. Green. Vol. 1, crown 8vo. 6s. Ingelow’s Poems. New Edition. 2 vols. fcp. 8vo. 12s. Macaulay’s Lays of Ancient Rome, with Ivry and the Armada. Illustrated by Weguelin. Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d. gilt edges. The same, Annotated Edition, fcp. 8vo. 1s. sewed, 1s. 6d. cloth, 2s. 6d. cloth extra. The same, Popular Edition. Illustrated by Scharf. Fcp. 4to. 6d. swd, 1s. cloth. Pennell’s (Cholmondeley) ‘From Grave to Gay.’ A Volume of Selections. Fcp. 8vo. 6s. Southey’s Poetical Works. Medium 8vo. 14s. Stevenson’s A Child’s Garden of Verses. Fcp. 8vo. 5s.
RURAL SPORTS, HORSE AND CATTLE MANAGEMENT, &c.
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Transcriber’s Notes (for this Gutenberg ebook): There are several places where a word or words are illegible or missing from the text. They are marked with a Transcribler’s Note [TN]. Missing or incorrect accents on French words were silently corrected. Missing or obscured punctuation was silently corrected. Typographical errors were silently corrected. Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation were made consistent only when a predominant form was found in this book. The book contained several references to Chapter XXXIV, but the last chapter is numbered XXXII. An attempt was made to correct these references.
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