Sturgeon.
THE flesh of a good sturgeon is very white, with a few blue veins, the grain even, the skin tender, good coloured, and soft. All the veins and gristles should be blue; for when these are brown and yellow, the skin harsh, tough, and dry, the fish is bad. It has a pleasant smell when good, but a very disagreeable one when bad. It should also cut firm without crumbling. The females are as full of roe as our carp, which is taken out and spread upon a table, beat flat, and sprinkled with salt; it is then dried in the air and sun, and afterwards in ovens. It should be of a reddish brown colour, and very