Truffles (Truffes).—These, in any soigné kitchen,
should be used fresh or not at all. The bottled
truffles are practically useless, as their flavour has
almost entirely perished, and there is nothing left but
a leathery, indigestible substance, which, but for
fashion, we should never dream of trying to eat.
Of truffles there are two kinds, the black or common
one, and the Piémontais or white truffle, seldom
if ever seen in this country. If bought fresh, truffles
should be very carefully washed and brushed with
a good stiff nail brush, to remove every trace of earth
and sand from the rough skin, then peel them, put
them on in a pan with sufficient chicken stock and
sherry, in equal quantities, to cover them, a table-
spoonful of butter or the fat off rich soup, an onion,
and a bouquet; let this all cook gently together for
fifteen minutes in a closely-covered pan. Now
turn them out into a basin, and leave them to get
cold in their own liquor. They can now be trimmed
if necessary, but remember that all such trimmings,
together with the stock in which they were cooked,
must be saved, as the former are excellent for force-
meats, etc., whilst the latter is perfect for sauces,
gravies, etc. Never use the rough outer skin. Other
ways are the following: