Potatoes, baked.—For these choose large ones, as much of a size and shape as possible, wash them well, and scrub the skins perfectly clean; then dry them thoroughly and bake in a good, but not too fierce oven, turning them now and again whilst baking. A few minutes before they are ready, prick them once or twice with a fine skewer to let out the steam, serving them when cooked on a napkin, and sending butter to table with them. There are many variations of this dish, one being the famous pommes Georgette; for this, when the potatoes are baked (which, by the way, takes from an hour and three-quarters to two hours, according to size), cut the top off neatly, and scoop out a good deal of the inside, being careful not to break the skin; mash this through a masher, keeping it as light as possible, and mix it quickly with some rich shrimp sauce, replace it in the potato, cover it with the piece cut off, return it to the oven to get thoroughly hot, and serve. Another form of this dish is made by mixing grated Parmesan cheese, a good dust of coralline pepper, and a little minced parsley with the potato snow, and finish as before. The great secret in these last two dishes is to have the potato as light and floury as possible, as otherwise it soddens when mixed with the other ingredients. Baked potatoes need watching whilst cooking, if left for it too long before pricking they will burst; whilst if pricked too soon they dry up, shrivel, and harden.