CHAPTER VI.
SAUCES, GARNISHES, &c.
Cold fish, like all cold dishes indeed, requires dainty handling and decoration, and it cannot be too strongly impressed on the operator that the slightest appearance of heaviness, over-handling, or messiness, will spoil any dish, however choice its ingredients, or however well cooked they may be. Occasionally a little artificial colouring is almost indispensable to bring up the colour, but this cannot be too carefully, evenly grudgingly, added, for if at all overdone it at once vulgarises the plat completely. Never add any uneatable garnish to a dish if you can avoid it. Socles of fat or wax wonder- fully carved, and as many drops of Tabasco as you please. Put a spoonful of this sauce into as many china or paper cases as you have fillets, then put a fillet into each and fill up the cases with the rest of the sauce; set a stoned olive farced with anchovy butter on each fillet, and place the dish on ice, or in the charged ice cave, for two or three hours before use. Some people use egg butter seasoned with cayenne, instead of the anchovy butter. Others, again, consider the sauce too hot (it is pretty strongly devilled), in which case, omit the Tabasco and the cayenne, using coralline pepper instead, and add the juice of a second lemon instead of the chilli vinegar. is on the point of setting. Where small pieces