THE COMPLETE MARKET-WOMAN.
CHAP. XXXI.
SECT. I.
Directions for the proper Choice of various Kinds of Butcher's Meat.
AS a necessary prelude to these useful directions, (more especially to that part which form the present section), it may not be improper to acquaint the inexperienced cook (for whose use the whole of this work is particularly calculated), with a knowledge of the different parts with which butcher's meat is divided, as the ox, sheep, calf, lamb, &c.
In the ox the fore-quarter consists of the haunch, which includes the clod, marrow-bone, shin, and the sticking-piece, which is the neck-end. The next is the leg of mutton-piece, which has part of the blade-bone; then the chucks, the brisket, the fore-ribs, and middle-rib, which is called the chuck-rib. The hind-quarter contains the sirloin and rump, the thin and thick flank, the veiner-piece, and the itch, each, or aitch-bone, buttock and leg. These are the principal parts of the carcase, besides which are the head, tongue, and palate. The entrails are, the sweet-breads, kidnies, skirts and tripe, of the latter of which there are three sorts, the double, the roll, and the reed-tripe.
In a sheep, the fore-quarter contains the neck, breast and shoulder; and the hind-quarter, the leg and loin. The two loins together are called a chine, or saddle of mutton, which is esteemed as a fine dish when the meat is small and fat. Besides these, are the head and pluck, which includes the liver, lights, heart, sweet-breads and melt.
In a calf, the fore-quarter consists of the shoulder, neck, and breast; and the hind-quarter the leg, which contains the knuckle, the fillet, and the loin. The head and inwards are called the pluck, and consist of the heart, liver, lights, nut and melt; and what is called the skirts; the throat sweetbread, and the wind-pipe sweetbread. Beef, mutton, and veal, are in season at all times of the year.
The fore-quarter of a house-lamb consists of a shoulder, neck, and breast. The hind-quarter is the leg and loin. The head and pluck consists of the liver, lights, heart, nut and melt, as also the fry, which is formed of the sweet-breads, lamb-stones, and skirts, with some of the liver.—Lamb may be had at all times in the year; but is particularly in high season at Christmas, when it is considered as one of the greatest presents that can be made from any person in London to another residing in the country.
Grass lamb comes in about April or May, according to the nature of the weather at that season of the year, that in general holds good till the middle of August.
In a hog, the fore-quarter is the fore-loin and spring; and, if it is a large hog, you may cut off a spare-rib. The hind-quarter is only the leg and loin. The inwards are called the haslet, which consists of the liver, crow, kidney, and skirts. Besides these there are the chitterlings, or guts, the smaller part of which are cleaned for sausages and black-puddings.
What is called a bacon-hog is cut differently, on account of making hams, bacon, and pickled pork. Here you have fine spare-ribs, chines, and grilkins, and fat for hog's-lard. The liver and crow are much admired, fried with bacon; and the feet and ears are equally good soused.
The proper season for pork commences about Bartholomew-tide, and lasts all the winter. When the summer begins it grows flabby, and is therefore not used, except by those who are particularly attached to that kind of animal provision.
Having mentioned these previous matters relative to the subject in question, we shall now proceed to describe the proper signatures by which the market-woman may make a judicious choice of such articles as the may have occasion to provide. In doing this we shall begin with Beef.