Pheasants.
AS these birds, as well as partridges and woodcocks, cannot be purchased, so there is no opportunity of making a choice; but notwithstanding this, as a great many of them are sent as presents to numbers of families in London, it may not be improper for the satisfaction of the cook, to point out the difference between those who are fresh and young, and those that are otherwise.
The cock-pheasant has spurs, which the hen has not; and the hen is most valued when with egg. The spurs of a young cock-pheasant are short and blunt, or round; but if he is old, they are long and sharp. If the vent of the hen is open and green, she is stale, and when rubbed hard with the finger, the skin will peel. If she is with egg, the vent will be soft.