Salsify (Salsifi).—This vegetable appears to be
returning to favour again, after being almost forgotten
for many years, and it is certainly well worth culti-
vating and preparing. There are two kinds, the white
salsify and the black or scorzanera; the former is
eaten in its first year’s growth, but the latter is not
ready under two years. Scorzanera should never be
scraped or peeled till it is cooked, as if cut or scratched
when raw all its flavour and juice exudes.
To boil.—For 1lb. of the vegetable put into
a pan rather more than a pint of water, half a tea-
spoonful of salt, a dessertspoonful of vinegar or lemon
juice, and about 2oz. of butter or well clarified
dripping, stir this till it boils, then lay in the salsify,
neatly trimmed and cut into three inch lengths.
Let it just reboil, then draw it to the side, and let
it simmer slowly but steadily for half an hour; now
drain well, and serve with melted butter, drawn
butter, or any nice white sauce to taste. The pot lid
should be kept a little off whilst the salsify is cooking.
Cooked thus the salsify may be drained, floured,
and fried; or dipped in batter, fried in hot fat,
then well drained and served hot, dusted with grated
Parmesan cheese and coralline pepper. Or it may
be served with marrow, and a rich brown sauce,
after the style of cardes à la moëlle, or, indeed, by
any recipe given for celery, cardoons, etc. Delicious
vegetarian patties may be made thus: Prepare a
rather thin purée of salsify (by boiling it till tender
enough to sieve, rubbing it through, moistening it as
you do so with some of the water in which it was
cooked, and seasoning it to taste with white and
coralline pepper, salt, a few drops of lemon, and the
same of essence of anchovy); stir into this small,
rather thick slices of previously cooked salsify, let
it all reheat, without actually boiling, stir in an egg
yolk beaten up with a spoonful or two of cream,
or use two or three spoonfuls of thick cream, and pour
this into some small puff pastry patties, dust with a
little finely-minced parsley and coralline pepper,
and serve at once. If made with salsify this is a
delicious dish, but if scorzanera is used, and the
flavouring is carefully done, the oyster taste is unmis-
takeable. For this reason the Americans call scor-
zanera the “oyster plant.” Cold cooked salsify,
sprinkled with oil and vinegar, and a fourniture
of minced herbs, is very nice with either a French